cruise control light comes on but does not engage

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Cruise control not working, light is on, but does no engage

• 2006 BUICK RENDEZVOUS
• 100,600 MILES

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• Dodge Intrepid Second Generation Forum (1998-2004)
• General Discussion (Second Generation)

Cruise control turns on, but won't actually engage at set speed

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The light in the dash comes on indicating the cruise control has been turned on. Once I hit the set button and let off the gas pedal, the car just starts slowing down. I checked the plunger at the brake pedal and it looks ok to me, I tried recalibrating it like I found on here to do... but it still doesn't work. Any ideas? (2002 300M)  

same yr car. same problem...  

check the vacuum lines on the servo if you have a vacuum leak there will be no cruise or maybe even the diaphragm in the servo itself has a leak you may have to change the servo but I'd check the vacuum lines 1st  

Where under the hood is this located?  

I was just looking near there the other day. I'll check it closely tonight. Thanks a bunch.  

All lines look good, they're connected and no cracks or holes. Could I do a short quick test of taping the plunger button down and see if the cruise engages?  

not sure mate soon as I can find where I downloaded the fsm to I'll give you some more things to look at  

Yeah, I don't think it's too serious. I want to take this puppy out on a nice highway drive when I have to go out of town. She'll be sitting at home if I don't get the cruise fixed.  

Have you checked to see if the Cruise Control cable is actually connected to the throttle body?  

From what I can tell in that tight space yup. Everything looks connected. Ziptrix: thanks bud! I checked that t-connection first and it all looked good. I'm thinking something is up with that pedal switch.  

2000 FSM 2002 FSM One thing to look at is the rubber connection, at the T, by the plenum. I found my leak at this piece, even though it looked connected. The piece looked more like foam than solid rubber.  

Ok so the t-connector is solid, the lines all look good. The cable is attached to the TB like it should. I can turn on and off the cruise control light all I want. So those buttons work. On one run, when I hit the accelerate button on the other side the cruise light went off and wouldn't come back on till I shut the car off and started it again. Weird. I pulled the pedal out to make sure it was clicking that button in, it seems ok but next I'm going to try taping the button down and do a short run to see if it engages when I try to set it. Could be vacuum related elsewhere? The car while in gear and stopped, has a shudder/vibration. The RPMs don't fluctuate or anything but to me it reminds me of a vacuum leak. At first I thought it was bad gas because I bought this car and it hasn't ran in quite some time, I added a fuel injector cleaner to what was in there and burned that half tank and tonight she got a fresh full tank with another injector cleaner. The shudder is still kinda there. edit: if you have the cruise on, and you hit the brake - isn't the light supposed to go off in the dash? If anyone can tell me this, it would really narrow it down I think.  

Stepping on the brake should not turn the light off, it would just disengage.  

Ok - just wanted to make sure.  

I think my servo is toast. All the lines are getting good vacuum when I disconnect from the plenum, with the car running and unplugging the vacuum line going right into the top of the servo - there's good suction. I could check the harness underneath, what sort of voltage should it be getting?  

It could be the actual SET switch is shot. Have you tried checking for stored codes? From what I have read, the CEL does not always come on when there is an issue with the cruise control and need DRB3. I'm not positive, just what I read.  

Other than than resesting the plunger on the brake light switch, did you also check the continuty of the switch terminal's for the cruise control to see that they are changing state from N.C. to N.O. and vise versa. There are 3 different sets of contact's in the switch terminals 1&2 and 3&4 control cruise control, and 5&6 are for the brake lamp.  

Ok so I swapped in a different servo and it's the same deal. Checked all the cable connections, everything is good. So now I'm going to focus more on the steering wheel switch or the brake switch. Or figure out how to check the harness connecting to the servo, make sure it's sending a signal. There's no codes related to cruise control in the car.  

Did you figure out what the problem was?  

I've got my money on the brake light switch. It has been the biggest reason of non-operitive cruise controls I've seen, either from being out of adjustment or just having bad/worn contacts. You can get get the brake switch's most places for about $15-20. Otherwise use an Ohm meter and check for different resistance values of each of the crusie switches by pressing one at a time. I would start at the clock spring connector (RD/LG & BK/LB wires) and work down line to the PCM.  

I got about 20 to choose from at the local pick n pull, I'll take my chances there first. How do you remove it? Kinda hard to squat under there and see lol  

It's like a 1/4 twist (I believe CCW) to have it come out of the bracket. Then to install, you have to twist the opposite direction while pressing it against the bracket.  

Awesome thanks - how about those steering wheel buttons? Might as well grab ones at the the pick n pull while I'm there. Just some screws on the backside of the steering wheel? Or is the harness connector down in the column somewhere?  

iv'e had to take my brake switch apart a few times. those contacts in there are made of really thin spring steel it looks like, wouldn't be hard to get one bent out of shape or to snap after so many years.  

Mine definitely still has a spring behavior to it.  

This will tell you the size Torx you need for the wheel. I don't think you'll need to take the wheel off ... just stop at step #6.  

For the cruise switches, there's a single torx head screw on each one - accessible thru a hole on the forward side of the steering wheel.  

Ok I removed the assembly, looked fairly clean. Nothing looked burnt but some of those resistors are pretty small. Put it all back together and while it still turns on, it won't set. Either tomorrow or Wednesday I'll swing by the local yard and grab a button or two and possibly a brake switch.  

FWIW, here are the approx. resistor values (in kohms): On/Off 0.0 Set 6.7 Resume/Accel 15 Cancel 0.92 Coast 3.0  

If you had access to a DRB III you easily test your cruise control button's without even having to remove them. Still have my money on the brake switch.  

lbrowne said: Once I hit the set button and let off the gas pedal, the car just starts slowing down. Click to expand...

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my light comes on when setting still goes off when giving it gas HELP [email protected]  

Could be several things. Brake switch could be out of adjustment. Also it was learned in one of the LH forums some years ago that if the cam position sensor is on its way out, you won't notice anything wrong with how your engine is running, but the PCM occasionally picks up on the problem, and turns the cruise control off (as a precaution?). One owner discovered this after similar problems with his cruise control turning itself off - couldn't figure out why. Then one day his cam sensor solid failed. Magically, after he replaced the cam sensor, his cruise control worked perfectly from then on. He put 2 and 2 together. People were skeptical, but sure enough, over a couple of years after that, several others, including myself, had the same thing happen - weeks or months of unexplained flaky cruise control operation, and either pre-emptively replacing the cam position sensor or waiting for it to fail and then replacing it fixed the cruise control.. There could be other causes - should get an idea of other things to look at from reading this thread, but the brake switch and failing cam sensor or two of the more common ones.  

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5 Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

• Updated: March 15, 2023

It would be difficult to find a vehicle on the road today without cruise control. This invaluable feature makes driving long distances easier but can also cause trouble when it malfunctions. Understanding the reasons your cruise control stopped working ensures that you can get the problem fixed quickly for a more enjoyable ride. 

While this fault can cause issues with the cruise control system itself, there could also be an effect on the acceleration of your vehicle. That’s why you want to have it looked at as soon as you notice a problem. Let’s take a quick look at the reasons your cruise control may have stopped working.

Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

The most common reason a cruise control stops working is due to a blown fuse or a defective brake pedal switch . It can also be caused by issues with the throttle control system or the ABS. In older cruise control systems, it can be caused by a broken vacuum line.

Here is a more detailed list of the possible reasons your cruise control is not working:

1. Blown Fuse

All electrical systems in the vehicle are controlled by fuses. Your cruise control system is attached to a fuse that can blow if there is a short circuit or fault. Without a good fuse, the cruise control system can’t work at all.

Thankfully, it’s not difficult to find and replace a blown fuse. Look in the owner’s manual to find the fuse that corresponds with the cruise control technology. 

2. Defective Brake Pedal Switch

The brake pedal switch is responsible for turning the brake lights on and off based on the pedal position. Cruise control systems are designed to disengage whenever your brake pedal gets pressed. 

Because the cruise control is wired into the brake pedal switch, any fault can cause it to stop working. When the brake pedal switch malfunctions, the car believes the brakes are engaged, causing the system to turn off automatically. Not only that, but your car’s brake light might also be stuck on, leaving confused drivers in your wake. 

3. Malfunctioning Speed Sensor

Speed sensors are located on every wheel or differential. The purpose of these sensors is to monitor the speed of the wheels to determine if traction control is needed. 

The speed sensors are also part of the cruise control system. When a sensor fails, the cruise control can stop working and the speedometer might act strange as well. 

If there is an issue with a speed sensor, it will often show with an ABS warning light or a check engine light on the dashboard.

RELATED: 3 Symptoms of a Bad ABS Wheel Speed Sensor

4. Electrical Issues

The cruise control system is electronic, with many components working together to make the system operate. If the cruise control fails to work, you want to check the wiring harness and associated connectors for a fault.

You also need to ensure that the voltage source is supplying enough power to the system. Even the smallest fault can cause defects with the cruise control. In many cases, there can be an issue with the cruise control lever or buttons causing the cruise control to not engage.

If your cruise control buttons are located on the steering wheel it could also be caused by a bad clock spring, which is located behind the steering wheel.

Check the system with an OBD2 scanner to look for any trouble codes related to the cruise control.

RELATED: 5 Symptoms of a Broken Clock Spring, Location & Replacement Cost

5. Damaged Vacuum Actuator, Hoses or Cable (Older cruise control)

If you drive an older vehicle with cruise control, you might have an issue with the vacuum actuator or the cable that connects to the throttle. If there has been damage done to the vacuum hoses or the actuator, the cruise control will stop working altogether.

Additionally, the cable linking the actuator to the throttle must be in good shape. If it has been broken, the cruise control will fail. 

What is Cruise Control?

Cruise control is a feature that is used when you are traveling at a consistent speed. Cruise control was first introduced for automobiles in the 1950s. However, it took many years before it became a staple in the modern vehicle.

This electrical system allows you to set a predetermined speed and take your foot off of the gas pedal. If you are on a long drive, there is less fatigue because you don’t have to try to maintain your speed. Cruise control can also benefit fuel economy because the vehicle uses less fuel when traveling steadily. 

In newer cars, you might be able to find adaptive cruise control , which is a smart technology. Adaptive cruise control allows you to travel at a predetermined speed, but it also helps to maintain a safe distance from the vehicles in front of you with the help of sensors. With conventional cruise control, you need to take over when the car in front of you slows down, but that’s not the case with adaptive cruise control. 

There are also vehicles nowadays with not only cruise control, but fully self-driving vehicles . We will most likely see much more of this in the future.

Cruise Control Repair Cost

The cost to repair your cruise control system depends on what caused it to fail. If you need to replace a cruise control or brake switch, you might spend between $125 and $350, including parts and labor. However, the cost to change a fuse is only a few dollars and you can perform the replacement yourself in just a matter of seconds. 

On the other hand, when something major fails, such as the actuator, you could be looking at a much higher repair bill. In some vehicles, the cost to replace a cruise control actuator can cost more than $700. These costs rise if you drive a luxury vehicle or one that is difficult to get parts for. 

It might not seem immediately important for you to fix the broken cruise control, but this defective system can affect other performance aspects. You could start to notice issues with acceleration or have trouble with the speedometer. To play it safe, it’s always best to have the cruise control repaired as soon as you notice a problem.

Is there a fuse for the cruise control?

Yes. If the cruise control is installed from the factory, you should check your car’s owner’s manual for the fuse location. If it’s an aftermarket cruise control, you’ll need to follow the wires to find the fuse.

Does the brake switch affect the cruise control system?

Yes. The brake switch affects the cruise control system. The brake switch sends a signal to the cruise control system to let it know when the brakes are being applied for the engine to know when it should stop accelerating.

Will the cruise control work if the check engine light is on?

The cruise control function will be disabled when the check engine light is on in most car models, even if the cause of the check engine light is not the cruise control itself. This is mainly due to safety reasons.

Can a vacuum leak affect cruise control?

Older vehicles use vacuum to control the throttle for the cruise control, and in this case a vacuum leak can heavily affect the cruise control. However, modern cruise controls are fully electric and in most cases will not be affected by a vacuum leak if the check engine light is not illuminated.

Although many people may think that the cruise control system is unimportant and not worth spending money to repair, the problem can be caused by a faulty part that will affect the engine’s performance or durability. Therefore, it is best not to ignore the problem if your cruise control is not working without first diagnosing the car properly.

If your cruise control still isn’t working after trying all the tips in this article, it’s probably time to take it in for a professional opinion from a mechanic. It may be a more serious problem that requires replacement parts or repairs. In the meantime, drive safe and enjoy the open road!

Learn more:

• Brake Lights Not Working But Tail Lights Are? (How to Fix)
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Cruise Control Not Working? 9 Potential Causes

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Cruise control reduces stress and fatigue on long drives, but if the system isn't working properly, it can become dangerous. If your vehicle's cruise control isn't working, one of the following nine issues may be the root cause.

How Cruise Control Works

Cruise control is a system to maintain vehicle speed without direct driver input. When you want to engage cruise control, you first turn the system “On” with a button or switch. However, this alone does not start the cruise control. When you “Set” cruising speed, the cruise control module (CCM) records the current speed, then takes control of the throttle body to maintain vehicle speed. When vehicle speed increases or decreases (due to wind or hills, for example), the CCM decreases or increases throttle body opening accordingly.

By modulating engine speed, the CCM can maintain your desired cruising speed on the highway. You can increase or decrease cruise speed by tapping a button or lever, and you can cancel cruise control by hitting the “Cancel” or “Off” buttons or stepping on the brake.

Throttle body control has changed over the years. Early systems used a vacuum motor and cable, but these eventually changed over to electric motors. Most recently, with the development of drive-by-wire or electronic throttle control systems (ETCS), cruise control is built into the engine control module (ECM), which controls the throttle body electronically.

Basic cruise control systems still require the driver to pay attention to changing road and traffic conditions. Adaptive cruise control systems, sometimes called "smart" cruise, use radar or laser detection to maintain safe distances from vehicles ahead. Some adaptive cruise control systems merely reduce engine speed to maintain distance, but some of the newest adaptive cruise control systems can also engage the brakes to slow or stop the vehicle. Still, even with adaptive cruise control, it's important that drivers never take their eyes off the road.

Why Is My Cruise Control Not Working?

There are a few basic ways that cruise control can fail, depending on how the system is designed. You may not be able to do much about ETCS cruise control systems, but there are a few things you can check:

Brake Light Switch – As cruise control is automatically cancelled by depressing the brake, some vehicles may disengage cruise control if it cannot detect the brake light switch.

Brake Lights – In some systems, cruise control is disabled when a brake light is blown. Aftermarket lighting, such as LED brake light conversion, might trick the CCM into thinking a brake light is blown, as LED bulbs draw less current than incandescent bulbs.

Fuses and Relays – On some vehicles, fuses and relays are used to protect the cruise control actuator circuit . If the fuse is blown or the relay is faulty, the system won’t work.

Spiral Cable – Many vehicles mount the cruise control switch on the steering wheel. A faulty spiral cable may have an open circuit, preventing the switch from contacting the CCM.

Control Switch – If the internal contacts wear out, the cruise control switch may not be able to contact the CCM. This might disable cruise control completely, or it might not react to the cancel or accelerate functions.

Check Engine Light – On some modern vehicles, particularly those equipped with ETCS, cruise control may be disabled if there is an engine or transmission problem .

Vacuum Leak – Some older vehicles used vacuum actuators to control the throttle body during cruise control operation. If there is a leak, such as a cracked hose or tube, the system won’t work. A vacuum leak might cause the engine to idler higher or set a fuel trim code.

Vehicle Speed Sensor – There are usually multiple vehicle speed sensors (VSS) on any given vehicle. The CCM might use a VSS feed from the ECM, instrument cluster, or transmission. If that signal is lost, the CCM can’t detect vehicle speed, disabling cruise control.

Electrical Problems – As most cruise control systems use electrical or electronic components, any diagnosis should include a thorough check of source voltage, wiring harnesses, and connectors. Anything loose or broken could disable the system entirely.

If your cruise control isn’t working properly, avoid using it until it is repaired. A faulty cruise control system may not cancel on demand, which will create a safety hazard for you and those around you. After assessing your cruise control yourself, take your vehicle to a trusted mechanic for a check or a couple diagnosis and repair.

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Cruise Control not Working (Diagnosis and Troubleshooting)

What makes cruise control not work.

Bad brake pedal/light switch — This means communication between you, cruise control and the car is interrupted, and you can’t have immediate manual control of the car.

Bad fuse — Fuses blow to protect the electrical system. Cruise control fuses will do the same, to protect the system and circuits in your car the fuse will break and then need repairing.

Failing speed sensor — Speed sensors are important in cruise control because your car needs to remain at the same speed consistently. Broken speed sensors will affect more than cruise control and need to be serviced urgently

Bad actuator vacuum, hose, or cable –The actuator vacuum is what connects and activates the throttle control. The fault may be with the hoses in the vacuum actuator or the cable linking the system together.

Symptoms of bad cruise control switch

• Symptom 1 — brake pedal does not disengage cruise control

There’s a switch fixed to the bases of the brake pedal and if cruise control does not deactivate when braking then it’s a sign that this switch is faulty.

• Symptom 2 — Hissing noises are heard from under the dash.

The cruise control switch is a vacuum system and for some vehicles, it is mounted near the brake pedals under the dash. If you can hear hissing, it could indicate that the switch or one of the switch’s vacuum hoses is broken.

• Symptom 3 — The cruise control switch/button itself does not work

When trying to turn on the function or while cruising it turns off, this is an indicator of a faulty switch and can be related to wiring issues or the above (1-2) symptoms

• Symptom 4 — A blown fuse

A blown fuse could be a simple error and fix. The switch circuit or fuse may just need to be replaced for the problem to resolve.

Possible Cruise control failure Scenarios

1. Cruise control not working after battery change

• Possible cause — This differs from vehicle to vehicle and among brands. Some drivers’ cruise control malfunctions after jump-starting their battery, and this is because the battery is still discharged. Newer cars have many electronic systems, and most are powered by the battery. So, if the battery is discharged or low-powered, the electrical cruise control system can be affected.
• Solution — Putting your battery on a trickle charger (2-5 amp) for 12 hours or driving on cruise for a couple of hours may resolve this issue.

2. Cruise control turns off while driving

• Possible cause — Damaged speed sensor or actuator, these two could be internally malfunctioning and causing the cruise control to disengage without input from you.
• Solution — Have a technician or mechanic run a diagnostic with the speed sensor and check the actuator hoses and cables.

3. Cruise control works intermittently

• Possible cause — this may relate to the brake pedal switch. If cruise control is intermittently disengaging, it could be a wiring issue with the switch.
• Solution — Have the brake pedal to cruise control switch investigated by a mechanic or technician and determine if there is a faulty wire to blame. You may need to have the switch or some of its parts replaced.

4. Cruise control turns on but will not set

• Possible cause — The brake pedal switch may be the issue. The brake pedal deactivates cruise control and if it is stuck in the open position, it may cause the cruise control to not engage or set properly.
• Solution — Ask your mechanic or technician to check for this issue specifically in their diagnostic and service.

5. Cruise control turns on by itself

• Possible cause — There may be a failure with the Electronic Control Module (ECM) which manages the actuators or Electronic Control Unit (ECU) which controls the speed in your cruise control
• Solution — You could attempt to reprogram the ECU and ECM if you have the computer tools, otherwise take it into a trusted mechanic or technician.

There are many helpful forums run by mechanics and amateurs:  These are always great for solving those specific problems you might experience.

When CC does not set: https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/34795/cruise-control-will-not-turn-on-cannot-be-enabled-nor-set

When CC is faulty after battery change: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/help-cruise-control-not-working-after-dead-battery.4464553/

For cruise control and other general repairs, watch this channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf2f4MeZzSksVMe1z3Lp3hw

Can cruise control cause check engine light?

When the check engine light or MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) is on, the cruise control light may blink to signal that cruise control has been disabled. This is a safety control as the vehicle is programmed to not go on ‘autopilot’ should the engine or mechanical issue relate to the cruise control systems. If the error or fault is with the cruise control systems, then the MIL may be lit for that as well.

How much does it cost to fix cruise control malfunctions?

• For switch repair (parts and labour) it’s estimated at $125- $350
• For fuse repairs, it could be up to $10 to buy the fuse and replace it yourself in a few minutes — there are many helpful YouTube tutorials on simple car repairs like this one.
• For actuator repairs, some cost more than $700
• Therefore, it’s important to know WHAT the issue is to get an idea of HOW MUCH it will cost you.

Does cruise control malfunction trigger the check engine light?

The function of a check engine light or MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) is to communicate engine or mechanical failures in your vehicle to prevent an accident on the road. The MIL can be lit for simple reasons like the gas cap is loose. Should your CC system fail or run incorrectly, the MIL could light up. Often when there are other failures or engine faults, the MIL will light and the cruise control with a flicker to signal it has been disabled for safety reasons. Once the cruise control or other issues are fixed, all the lights should go back to being turned off.

Author: Dave Johnston

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• Why is my Cruise Control not Working? [14 reasons]

14 Reasons Why your Cruise Control may NOT Be Working

The reason for your cruise control not working could be as simple as a blown fuse to really complex electrical problems. Defective switches, sensors, and even “check engine” light, all could contribute to this problem.

If you like to travel and own a car fitted with cruise control, you know how comfortable it can be to maintain a constant speed! When a cruise control system gets damaged, it is just as annoying as it is dangerous.

Cruise control is connected to several components of the car, and when it fails it can mean that something could be wrong with the CC itself. It could also be a signal that something wrong is happening with any other component of the car.

Why is my cruise control not working?

In this article, I am going to show you the main reasons why your cruise control may not be working (from the simplest to the more complex ones):

Reason #1. Bad or blown fuse

The cruise control’s circuit (like many other electronic components of your car), is protected by a fuse that will blow to protect the system from short circuits and overloads. If your vehicle’s cruise control fuse is blown, the system will stop working.

You can replace the fuse with a new one of the correct amperage, according to your vehicle’s owner manual. If the new fuse doesn’t blow again, everything will be ok; if the fuse blows again, you have to keep searching for what is making that fuse blow.

Reason #2. Burnt brake lamp

Some cruise control systems are disabled when the brake lamp is blown. Check your brake lights. If you find a burnt brake light, just replace it and test the system again.

Reason #3. Defective brake light switch

A defective pedal switch can also make your cruise control stop working. Remember that all cruise control systems are automatically disengaged as soon as the brake pedal is pressed down.

If the cruise control didn’t stop working when a fault in the brake light or brake pedal switch is detected, it could be dangerous; that’s why the CC control unit constantly monitors the status of this switch.

Reason #4. Clutch pedal switch deactivation (for manual transmission vehicles)

Cruise control is deactivated when the clutch is pressed by the driver in manual transmission cars. The CC control unit monitors this switch as it does the brake light switch.

Reason #5. The vehicle speed sensor is not working

A vehicle’s cruise control needs to be able to determine the vehicle’s actual speed. This enables the system to determine how much throttle needs to be applied in order to keep a certain speed, among other things.

The speedometer speed sensor is not always the sensor used by cruise control. Some systems rely on the ABS speed sensors, others do an average and some have a dedicated speed sensor.

If the system can’t detect the vehicle’s speed or detects a problem with the speed sensor, it will stop working.

Reason #6. Faulty throttle body or accelerator pedal

In modern engines, the throttle body is driven electronically by the engine control unit (ECU), and the accelerator pedal works like a potentiometer. The processor managing the cruise control system will act as the accelerator pedal, sending more or less voltage to the throttle body to open or close the throttle body’s butterfly valve.

If there is a problem with your vehicle’s throttle body, your cruise control won’t work.

Reason #7. Check Engine light is “ON”

If your vehicle instrument panel has the “Check Engine Light” ON and the fault stored in the ECU’s memory is related to some component vital for the cruise control system, you will not be able to use your cruise control until you have fixed that problem.

Reason #8. Faulty steering wheel’s spiral cable/clock spring

The spiral cable connects all the switches from the steering wheel (in case your steering wheel has switches) to their respective modules. This includes the connection of the driver’s airbag.

These wires (also called clock springs) are prone to get cut. A faulty spiral cable may have an open circuit making it unable to reach the vehicle’s cruise control module (CCM).

Reason #9. Bad Cruise Control Switch

Your vehicle’s cruise control switches have internal contacts that wear out. If that happens, the switches won’t be able to contact the CCM.

Depending on which buttons are faulty, your whole cruise control can stop working or just some functions won’t work.

Reason #10. Electrical problems with different modules and wiring

Modern cruise control systems use electrical and electronic components, and they are connected to other modules and systems of the vehicle. Some of these systems are the ECU, ABS, and/or Stability Control Systems like ESP.

The CCM makes a check of these systems once the key is switched to ON, and if some of these components are not working in optimal conditions, the CCM won’t engage. If none of the above items seem to be the problem, the vehicle needs to be taken to a professional who can perform a full scan of all the components, check that all the voltages, wiring harnesses, and connectors are ok.

The professional is going to detect if there are any connection problems between modules and will be able to find the reason why the cruise control is not working.

Reason #11. Dirty or faulty camera or sensor (only for vehicles fitted with adaptive cruise controls)

Newer vehicles have adaptive cruise control systems. These devices not only keep a fixed speed by the driver; they also can detect other vehicles ahead and behind and are able to keep a safe fixed distance to avoid collisions.

Some of these new systems have laser sensors while others have cameras to calculate the right distance to follow considering the vehicle’s speed and acceleration. Any problem with the sensors will prevent adaptive cruise control from working.

Problems with older cruise control systems

Before electronic injection and electronic throttle bodies, some cars had the cruise control function. In fact, the first cruise controls were introduced in the early 1950s.

These electromechanical cruise controls are pretty simple. They have a vacuum actuator connected to the throttle linkage that opens and closes the throttle to maintain the vehicle’s speed.

In early injection cars, the throttle linkage was replaced by a cable. Some common faults of these old cruise control systems are:

• A faulty vacuum actuator. Vacuum actuators have a diaphragm inside that can break. Any vacuum leak will lead to failure.
• Faulty vacuum control solenoid. It can prevent the actuator from operating normally.
• Broken throttle cable. If the throttle cable or linkage is broken, it needs to be replaced.

I hope you enjoyed my guide to cruise control problems. Even though it doesn’t explain how to fix your cruise control, it gives you an idea of where to start looking if you are going to do it yourself.

Now you will have an idea about how the system works and what are the possible reasons why it’s failing (in case you have to take your vehicle to a shop to be repaired).

Attention! This article is for informational purposes ONLY and is NOT a replacement for professional advice! ALWAYS consult your local specialist for an appropriate solution to your problem. All statements, prices, contact information, recommendations, and reviews contained herein came from sources that we believe to be reliable, but the accuracy or completeness thereof is not guaranteed. Please contact the service provider for complete details and updates.

I always Know and admit that even though I went to school for ABR grad. In 1994 3.36gpa still have go go back to school for upgrades due to vehicle advancement but I still learned alot although I am dealing with an 05 f150 stx which has more recalls then a auto parts store where the employees don’t know a inerta. Switch from an ignition switch ,thanks for the information

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Why Is My Cruise Control Not Working? 6 Common Reasons

By: Author Zach Reed

When your cruise control stops working, it can be quite an inconvenience. In this expert guide, we’ll talk about the most common reasons it can fail.

If you’re old enough, you can probably remember driving on road trips , or even just on your daily commute to work, before cruise control was a thing. It can be downright exhausting.

Unfortunately, even modern-day cars can have a failing cruise control system and it can seem like you’ve been thrown back into the stone ages.

Okay, that might be a bit dramatic, but it really can be annoying when cruise control stops working. But why does that happen?

The most common reasons that your cruise control might stop working include a bad cruise control switch, a blown fuse or relay, problems with the engine or transmission, a faulty vehicle speed sensor, a bad brake pedal switch, or a broken cruise control cable.

If your car’s cruise control isn’t working, it can be a major pain.

What do you do if your cruise control stops working? Here are some of the most common reasons why it might not be working, and how to fix it!

To fully understand why cruise control stops working on a car, we researched the most common reasons so that you know exactly what’s wrong with it.

Since we’ve already done the research for you, all you need to do is run through the list of common reasons below and you’ll be able to get your cruise control figured out in no time.

How Does Cruise Control Work?

Before we get into the reasons that cruise control might not be working in your car, it’s important that we first explain how the cruise control system works in the first place.

By understanding how cruise control works and what components are involved, you’ll have a much better understanding of why the issues below can prevent cruise control from working.

So, how does cruise control work?

The cruise control system in your car is made up of a few different parts. There’s a cruise control switch, which is usually located on the steering wheel, that turns the system on and off.

There are also fuses and relays that power the system, and a speed sensor that tells the system how fast the car is going. These sensors report back to the cruise control module, which controls a cruise control servo.

This servo is what actually controls the throttle of your car , and it’s what tells the car to speed up or slow down to maintain the cruise control speed.

Finally, there’s a brake pedal switch that tells the system when you’re braking and a cruise control cable that connects the accelerator pedal to the cruise control system.

All of these parts and pieces work together to enable your car to maintain a set speed without you having to constantly adjust the accelerator.

Now that we know how the cruise control system works, let’s take a look at some of the most common reasons why it might not be working in your car.

Most Common Reasons That Cruise Control Isn’t Working

1. bad cruise control switch.

One of the first things to check if your cruise control isn’t working is the switch. This is usually located on the steering wheel or stalk. If it’s a bad switch, then it might need to be replaced.

This is usually pretty easy to check because you can just try to turn the system on and see if it engages.

In most cars, a light will illuminate somewhere on your dash (or on the button itself) once you press the switch to turn on cruise control.

So if you hit the button or switch but you don’t see a light illuminate anywhere, it could be an indication that the button or switch itself is bad. But that’s not the only reason you might not see the light turn on.

2. Blown Fuse or Relay

Another pretty common reason that cruise control might not be working is because of a blown fuse or relay.

These are usually located in the fuse box under the hood. If you think this might be the case, then you can just check the fuse box to see if there’s a blown fuse or relay.

If you don’t see a blown fuse or relay, it could still be the problem. Sometimes the fuse or relay might not look blown but could still be bad.

In this case, you might need to use a multimeter to test the fuse or relay to see if it’s still good. Typically, a relay will audibly “click” when it’s activated, so if you don’t hear the clicking noise, the cruise control relay might be bad.

3. Engine or Transmission Problems (Check Engine Light)

If the cruise control system is engaged but the car doesn’t seem to be responding, it could be because of engine or transmission problems.

These types of problems can be pretty serious, so it’s definitely something you’ll want to get checked out by an experienced mechanic or technician. Often, this will be accompanied by your check engine light turning on.

Furthermore, sometimes the cruise control system won’t even engage if there are overarching issues with the engine or transmission that would prevent it from working.

This is more commonly seen in newer cars where the electronics and computer system are so advanced and integrated that it will prevent you from using cruise until you fix the underlying issues.

4. Faulty Vehicle Speed Sensor

One of the most common reasons that cruise control might not be working is because of a faulty vehicle speed sensor. This is the sensor that tells the cruise control system how fast you’re going.

If it’s not working correctly, then the cruise control system won’t be able to maintain the correct speed.

In most cases, a faulty speed sensor will need to be replaced. However, sometimes you can clean the sensor and fix the problem. This is usually pretty easy to do and you can find instructions online or in your car’s owner’s manual.

You usually have to jack your car up and remove the wheel to get to the sensor, so make sure you’re being careful and following the owner’s manual!

5. Bad Brake Pedal Switch

Another common reason for cruise control not working is a bad brake pedal switch. This switch is located on the brake pedal itself and tells the cruise control system when you’re pressing the brakes.

If it’s not working correctly, then the cruise control system won’t know when you’re trying to stop and it could cause some serious accidents .

In most cases, you’ll need to replace the switch if it’s not working correctly. However, if you’re lucky, you might be able to clean it and get it working again.

Sometimes it can even just come unplugged and all you need to do is plug it back in. Either way, this is a pretty easy fix that you should be able to do on your own.

6. Broken Cruise Control Cable

Last up on our list of the most common reasons cruise control might not be working is a broken cruise control cable. This is the cable that runs from the cruise control module to the throttle body.

If it’s broken, then the cruise control system won’t be able to tell how much gas to give the engine and it won’t work correctly.

The vast majority of the time, you need to replace the cruise control cable if it’s broken. However, sometimes it might have just come loose or come off the track at the throttle body and you just need to reattach it correctly.

This cable has to have the correct amount of tension in order to operate properly, so you might want to leave this one up to the professionals if you aren’t confident about it!

How Hard is it to Fix Cruise Control on Your Car?

Now that you know why your cruise control might not be working, you’re probably wondering if it’s something you can handle on your own. That really depends on what the problem is.

As you can see from the list above, some of the issues are pretty easy to fix, like a blown fuse or bad brake pedal switch, while others are pretty difficult, like engine or transmission problems.

If you’re having trouble with your cruise control, the best thing to do is take it to a qualified mechanic or technician and have them diagnose the problem.

They’ll be able to tell you exactly what’s wrong and how difficult (and expensive) it will be to fix. Most of the issues with cruise control are fairly simple and inexpensive, and the convenience of the feature usually makes the repair worth it!

Conclusion on Common Issues For Cruise Control

There are a few different reasons why cruise control might not be working in your car anymore, including a broken switch, a blown fuse or relay, or faulty speed sensors.

Whatever the problem may be, figuring it out is the first step so you can go back to cruising on the roads without a problem.

We hope this article helped shed some light on why cruise control might not be working in your car.

Be sure to take it to a professional if you’re having any trouble so they can help you get back on the road safely!

Hi, I'm the founder of VehicleAnswers.com! Having owned a wide variety of vehicles in my life, I was astounded at how hard it can be to find answers to common automotive questions. Rather than sit idly, I decided to create this website to help others!

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CRuise Control lights up but does not engage.

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I have a 2002 GL 1800, when I press my cruise control button it lights up but does not work. What is going on, has this happend to anyone else?  

I have the same problem on my 05. I have after market levers for brake & clutch. The don't always release all the way out. So I must push the lever out and then the cruise will engage. Usually it's the front brake lever that is keeping me from using the cruise. Many will tell you that it is this or that but from my experience these levers are the problem. Hope that helps, Chris  

It's probably one of the cancel switches. Check the clutch and front brake lever switches. I bet one of the switches is gummed up.  

Can you start the bike with the trans in gear and the clutch lever pulled in? Can you start the bike in neutral with the clutch lever out? Does the sidestand idiot light in the panel properly indicate the sidestand up or down? If the cruise system "thinks" the brake (front or rear) is being applied, or that the clutch is pulled in, you cannot engage the cruise.  

meridien said: Can you start the bike with the trans in gear and the clutch lever pulled in? Can you start the bike in neutral with the clutch lever out? Does the sidestand idiot light in the panel properly indicate the sidestand up or down? If the cruise system "thinks" the brake (front or rear) is being applied, or that the clutch is pulled in, you cannot engage the cruise. Click to expand...

It is the amber "S" in the instrument cluster. You are right also about it disabling a start while in gear, clutch or no clutch.  

On my 07 Wing, with the same problem, it turned out the rear brake switch was faulty. The dealer replaced it.....end of problem.  

Repaired Cruise trader, I had the same problem, checked all the switches, all check ok. I checked the cruise actuator thinking it may be the problem. It check ok. Last month I changed the air filter and thought I would look at the cable connection at the throttle body. I removed the air box and noticed that the cable from the actuator had slipped out of the cable stay at the throttle body. Put the cable back in the stay, tighten the two nuts. Works perfect. I have a Cruise Actuator if anybody needs one. Picture of cable stay at link below. http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp  

laitken said: On my 07 Wing, with the same problem, it turned out the rear brake switch was faulty. The dealer replaced it.....end of problem. Click to expand...

Chevyjackson said: trader, I had the same problem, checked all the switches, all check ok. I checked the cruise actuator thinking it may be the problem. It check ok. Last month I changed the air filter and thought I would look at the cable connection at the throttle body. I removed the air box and noticed that the cable from the actuator had slipped out of the cable stay at the throttle body. Put the cable back in the stay, tighten the two nuts. Works perfect. I have a Cruise Actuator if anybody needs one. Picture of cable stay at link below. http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp Click to expand...

The sidestand light and weather or not it starts in gear has nothing to do with the cruise not setting. The cruise cancel switches are not the same switches as the starter safety interlock system switches. The switches are probably your issue. They are mounted with the front brake light switch and the clutch interlock switch on the handlebars. Aftermarket levers can cause this issue as well. The other cruise cancel switches are mounted on the rear brake pedal with the pedal brake light switch and the other one is on the throttle body for the throttle cancel. The switches on the handle bars are known for getting dirty contacts. Sometimes contact cleaner will fix them, sometimes not. Goodluck.  

techdude2000 said: The sidestand light and weather or not it starts in gear has nothing to do with the cruise not setting. The cruise cancel switches are not the same switches as the starter safety interlock system switches. The switches are probably your issue. They are mounted with the front brake light switch and the clutch interlock switch on the handlebars. Aftermarket levers can cause this issue as well. The other cruise cancel switches are mounted on the rear brake pedal with the pedal brake light switch and the other one is on the throttle body for the throttle cancel. The switches on the handle bars are known for getting dirty contacts. Sometimes contact cleaner will fix them, sometimes not. Goodluck. Click to expand...

At the risk of seeming condescending, you do know that setting the cruise control is a two part function, correct? And that the cruise will not set below a certain speed and gear, neither of which I can remember at the moment. Then, a repair manual would be my next suggestion. Further, keep it simple, do the easiest test first. As mentioned, push out, away from the grips, both the brake and clutch levers. Do not cover the levers with your gloved hand. You would be amazed how sensitive they are. You didn't mention how many miles on the bike. My suggestion would be not to take anything apart switch wise until you get the manual, or Freds DVDs, but cleaning any switch with contact cleaner from Radio Shack ( BE SURE TO COVER ALL PARTS OF THE BIKE TO PREVENT CONTACT WITH THE CONTACT CLEANER ) would be a step to take. Proceed carefully. Little springs and contacts in switches can disapear very quickly.  

Those switches are inexpensive ( about $13 ) and very easy to replace btw.  

Sean McCarthy said: At the risk of seeming condescending, you do know that setting the cruise control is a two part function, correct? And that the cruise will not set below a certain speed and gear, neither of which I can remember at the moment. Then, a repair manual would be my next suggestion. Further, keep it simple, do the easiest test first. As mentioned, push out, away from the grips, both the brake and clutch levers. Do not cover the levers with your gloved hand. You would be amazed how sensitive they are. You didn't mention how many miles on the bike. My suggestion would be not to take anything apart switch wise until you get the manual, or Freds DVDs, but cleaning any switch with contact cleaner from Radio Shack ( BE SURE TO COVER ALL PARTS OF THE BIKE TO PREVENT CONTACT WITH THE CONTACT CLEANER ) would be a step to take. Proceed carefully. Little springs and contacts in switches can disapear very quickly. Click to expand...

After the curise light comes on, you have to push the Set/Decel button, the lower button for the cruse to set. After that, the Accel button will make the bike speed up. JMHO  

techdude2000 said: The orange cruise light comes on when you turn on the system, the green cruise light should come on when you set the speed. To check these switches you need to ohm them out with a meter to see if they are closed when the levers and the brake pedal are released. Here is the system diagram for these. Click to expand...

CLee said: I have the same problem on my 05. I have after market levers for brake & clutch. The don't always release all the way out. So I must push the lever out and then the cruise will engage. Usually it's the front brake lever that is keeping me from using the cruise. Many will tell you that it is this or that but from my experience these levers are the problem. Hope that helps, Chris Click to expand...

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Cruise Control- Stopped Working

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My cruise control button stays depressed, and cruise control light comes on, but when I'm up to speed the Set button will not engage cruise control. Just started doing this as I use cruise every day due to 80% highway commute. Had a shop fix two of my tires/rims over the weekend, and coincidentally or not, it hasn't worked since. What are the top few things that it could be? Thanks  

Could be a disconnected throttle cable. I recently had the exact same issue (lights working fine, but car didn't maintain any speed at all). A 10 minute fix was all it took: - Grab a flash light and pop the hood. - Just to the right of the engine and the left of the intake, you will see two throttle cables. - Both cables should wrap around and connect to the spring. It's tight and can be difficult to see unless you follow the cables carefully. - The cables have cylindrical ends. If one of them is just lying there, that's probably your issue. - Epoxy the end of the cable back into place. Do a lot of dry-fitting before using the epoxy. I'll try to attach photos.  

Attachments

More photos showing where to look and the repair.  

Great pics....appreciate it  

What year car? What size engine? conradphilly, those connections don't exist on my '07 4-cylinder. It's drive-by-wire.  

My car is an 07 EX Sedan 4cyl with 98,600 miles I like to cruise, and need cruise control so I can zone out on my 60 mile round trip commute. Not much of a DIY guy, but can do basic plug and play stuff. My brake lights are working fine. I will pop the hood and see if I can duplicate Conradphilly's findings.  

Check the brake pedal position switch.  

Where is that located?  

I take it from your screen name, you have the V6? If so, check to see if the radio controls on your steering wheel work. Chances are they don't. How 'bout the horn? If that's the case, the problem lies with the clock spring inside the steering column. Do a search for cruise not working and you will find plenty of threads discussing the problem and how to accurately t-shoot and repair the issue.  

I have a 2007 EX 4 cyl sedan. Other car is 2011 V6 sedan. Everything works on steering wheel including horn. I've done a few searches but can't really find the one that matches mine exact  

When you press the Set button, does the light come on as if cruise control has engaged but it doesn't actually engage? Or does only the Cruise Control light come on?  

Only the cruise control light comes on when I turn on the system. No actual engaging or engaging light comes on when I hit set.  

Could it also be just a simple fuse that is causing the cruise control not to set?  

Please clarify. There are two lights, One comes on when the cruise control is turned on, the other comes on when the speed is set. When you attempt to set a speed, does the light come on indicating so? If not, I'd suspect the switch itself. It could be as simple as blowing some compressed air into the steering wheel buttons to taking the switch off and cleaning it, or might require a new switch. If its anything else, I don't have a clue.  

BenzAccord said: Sixbanger said: My cruise control button stays depressed, and cruise control light comes on, but when I'm up to speed the Set button will not engage cruise control. Just started doing this as I use cruise every day due to 80% highway commute. Had a shop fix two of my tires/rims over the weekend, and coincidentally or not, it hasn't worked since. What are the top few things that it could be? Thanks Click to expand...

Well, for shits this morning, I gave the Cruise Control another shot. Depressed on button, and Cruise Control Main light came on as per the norm. Got up to 70mph and hit set, and then other Cruise Control light came on and vehicle held speed at 70mph. Hit cancel, passed another car at 80mph, hit set again at 70mph and it set again. Worked flawlessly my entire 30 mile commute. So, it looks like I have an intermittent problem now, rather than a complete failure. Very puzzling. My brother was supposed to help me troubleshoot over the weekend with his test light, but now I have no idea what to look for. I guess as long as it keeps working, I'm not going to bitch. I never realized how much I enjoy using it, until it stopped working. Long live cruise control!  

GoldGuru On some cars, brake pedal engages two electrical switches. The switches are located at the end of brake pedal up under the dashboard and are visible if you look up under the dashboard. One switch lets the brake lights to light up when brake pedal is pressed. The other is for cruise control. Both switches are turned off when brake pedal is not depressed. This happens because there are two rubber bumpers and they press on the switches to turn them off when brake pedal is not pressed. Over time these rubber bumpers become brittle and break off. The rubber bumpers are press fit into a hole at the end of brake pedal. When the rubber bumper is gone the hole in which they were press fit will not engage the switch. Depending on which rubber bumper is gone, either brake light will stay on even after you turn off the ignition switch or the cruise control will not work or both if both rubber bumpers are gone. If the rubber bumper for cruise control is gone, when you press cruise control button, cruise light comes on at the dashboard, but when you press the switch to engage at some speed, the set light will not come on and cruise control will not work. Check to see if the brake pedal has not lost the rubber stopper that engages the cruise control. They cost less than $10 for half a dozen on eBay. You have to depress the brake pedal to create room to press in the rubber bumper into the hole. Good luck!  

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Cruise Control light on but won't engage

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On my 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan (3.8L V6), the cruise control will turn ON (green light), but it won't maintain any speed on the freeway. I have searched other threads, but am still unsure how to proceed as a DIY project. I have a Haynes Repair Manual (96-02), but some of the more common things that people talk about (vacuum reservoir under the battery tray?) I am not finding :help_wsig . Jeepman posted the following: Brake light switch could be the problem (common). Burnt out brake light bulb (including the third light) can cause problems as well. Vacuum storage can be a problem (common). Speed sensor could be faulty. Other parallel problems could occur as well, like limp mode / speedometer not working. Leaky vacuum hoses, faulty servo, frayed cables can cause problems. Brake light bulbs all checkout. Speedometer works. I had the clock spring recall done years ago. If anyone has pictures that show the locations of the various vacuum lines, reservoirs, servos, that would be really helpful. Also, any diagnostic procedures would be helpful, too (more step by step...like how do you tell that vacuum storage is bad?). Thanks. * ijhutch *  

The reservoir is molded as a part of the tray. There's a documented (TSB) problem with a bad check valve inside, but it would only show when engine vacuum is not low enough, such as when going uphill. Maybe you can start by looking for broken or disconnected vacuum lines. Remove the battery, disconnect the cruise vacuum line at the intake, and the cruise cable at the throttle body, unplug the electrical connector from the actuator a.k.a. servo bolted to the tray, and remove the tray and actuator as a unit. It will be easy to see everything that way.  

To get to the Vacuum Resevoir you have to remove the battery and the battery tray. The vacuum lines themselves get brittle and crack with age and heat from the exhaust manifold. They snap very easily once they get to that stage. I replaced my original rubber vacuum lines with plastic windscreen washer tubing. The original lines are available from your local stealership, but it's best to apply for the bank loan before you ask :Wow1: The brake light switch, as Jeepman says, can stick on. My brakelights would still be on after removing the ignition key and getting out of the van! To cure it, push down on the brake pedal and then pull the plunger out as far as it will go, then slowly release the brake pedal. When the pedal is fully released, pull up on it slightly. You might need to do that a couple of times before it resets to the correct position. One way to test for a sticky switch is to pull the brake pedal up with your foot while driving, then setting the cruise control. That is, unless other drivers are tooting on their horn and make silly gestures at you :lol:  

I had two separate issues with the CC on our 1998, the first was the vacuum battery tray which was solved by replacing the tray (and can be solved by installing a check-valve between said tray and the throttle body, or at least so I've been told), and the second was a bad ground. Apparently I hit a piece of road junk that severed the ground strap that is bolted to the engine block at the upper oil dipstick tube mount. Once I spliced the ground strap, the CC would engage again.  

check for a vacuum leak in the area of the battery. Remove the battery, and the battery tray and look at all the black plastic vacuum hoses, they love to break. If all of them look OK, look for a bad connection or a broken wire in this area. The fact that the light comes on really makes me think it is a vacuum problem. Vacuum leaks are a common cause of cruise control problems with this vehicle.  

Agreed, the most likely suspect is the vacuum assembly, that said, when my ground strap was severed, I still got the CC Light, just no CC. Go figure.  

You can get the shop manual on e-bay which will give you much more year specific info than the Haynes.  

Lets not make this more complex than we need to. More often than not, the cause of failure when the light is on is a vacuum leak, usually from a broken hose. If a close examination of the hoses and the servo assembly does not immediately show the cause of the problem, then, yes, a scan tool and manual would indeed be helpful.  

about a 10% chance. things get way more complex when a lot of guessing gets thrown out there. Yes it COULD be a vacuum problem. However I have only seen that once on a van causing cruise to be inop due to a cracked hose near the throttle plate caused by an agressive mechanic doing work in that area breaking the tube. otherwise the majority have been clock spring, switches, and brake light switch issues. Oh and one bad ground from the servo harness  

I broke the hoses when trying to get them off the battery tray. The are very brittle and are almost welded on from the heat. The nipples on the tray broke off with the hoses. http://www.alldata.com/service_provider/techrx/2005/200501212h.html  

OK. I jacked it up and looked underneath...didn't find any loose connectors or wires near the tranny. I then ripped out the battery and the tray...and noticed that the little hoses that go into the box (is that the reservoir?) below the battery tray (connected to it, though) were a bit loose. Thinking I may have pulled them a bit, but keeping my fingers crossed, I shoved them back in completely and re-assembled the whole kit-and-kaboodle. I then took it for a test drive and...NOTHING. Argh. All the hoses looked and felt fine. This thing has been in Phoenix, AZ since 2000 and I am surprised how good a shape they look. How does one tell if the battery tray vacuum reservoir is doing its job? If it is the battery tray, how much does it cost to replace (typically)? *sighs* * ijhutch *  

A wild ass guess.... As a 'wild ass guess', would disconnecting the negative cable on the battery reset the computer that operates most electrical components???? Other than that, is there a fuse that can be checked?  

folks all the guessing is sending the man on a wild goose chase this is getting rediculous originator. find the cruise servo, remove the vacuum line at that point, start engine, hold your finger over the hose. if you have vacuum your done with this diagnosis. if not there's your problem.  

I took it in to my very trusted Indy. You know why I didn't find "the leak"? Someone had capped the vacuum port (nipple) on the engine, so I assumed that that was how it was supposed to look. My guess is that my other Indy (who I don't go to anymore) broke the old line when doing the valve cover gaskets a couple of months ago, and snapped off the very thin hose right where it was zip tied to the larger cable line. In other words, I didn't know what to look for. Thanks for everyone's help. It was kinda fun to tear into it under the battery tray and poke around. You guys gave me the confidence to just do it. * ijhutch *  

One of the ports on the intake is unused, and indeed capped. So did someone break the vacuum line to the servo, and just cap that port as well?  

Remember the gen 3's had a recall for the clock spring. On my 97, the light would not come on. Had the clock spring replaced under the recall and it was working again. If there is a clicking when you turn the wheel (setting still), then I'd start with the clock spring, especially if it has not been replaced under the recall.  

My first thought was clock spring, but the post said the light came on. The light would not come on if it was a clock spring issue which then made me think to check for broken hoses. One of the intake ports is indeed capped. I wonder if indy#1 broke a hose? The servo unit is also quite fragile and troublesome.  

The wire to turn the system ON/OFF inside the clock spring could still be OK, but the wire that connects to the SET button could be broken. It is my understanding that each of those buttons and the horn have a seperate wire (seems they'd have too) so it seems at least plausable to me that the wire that connects to the SET buttton could be broken but the others could be fine.  

It's just a pair wires for everything. Switches operate by creating different resistance values between the two wires, and the resulting voltage signal is read by BCM. This is also true for door lock/unlock switches.  

it is a pair of wires to the switches but there's a lot more wires in the system.  

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Hello There, Now that I'm at work and have access to Chyrsler Online, I took the liberty to check out your concerns... I apologize in advance, as I have not read through all of the replies with in this thread. However, there are a handfull of Service Bulletins that address this issue. and most are suggesting that you verify that the vacuum servo is working properly... Here is a cut/paste from the page I'm referring too... Vehicle will not hold set speed | Replace the Speed Control Servo;Verify vehicle complaint. If the vehicle is not holding set speed, you must determine if it is dropping vacuum supply. "TEE" in an in line vacuum gauge between the servo and vacuum supply. If it is a steady vacuum, then check to be sure that the PCM is not getting any signals from the switches for a "coast" request. If no stray inputs are coming from the switches, use a mighty vac tester and pump up the servo to see if it holds vacuum . If it does not, review the below recommendation Recommendation Replace the Speed Control Servo. Vehicle will not hold set speed | Check vacuum line from reservoir to servo : if ok replace the vacuum reservoir.;Verify vehicle complaint. Monitor vacuum supply with a gauge while speed control is set. It should hold at least 10 inches of vacuum to keep the vehicle at the target speed. If the vacuum supply is constant, utilize a mighty vac and hand pump the servo to see if it will maintain vacuum. If it bleeds off, review the below recommendation Recommendation Check vacuum line from reservoir to servo : if ok replace the vacuum reservoir. Vehicle will not hold set speed | Check servo ground by with a high current draw test lamp.;What is the general nature of your question or concern? >> Speed Control Concerns What type of speed control problem do you have? >> Installation of Mopar Accessories speed control Have you checked the speed control servo ground ? >> NO Using The DRBIII in Actuator Test mode for the servo - Will the throttle open fully (W.O.T.) severall times ? >> NO Have you teed a vacuum gauge at the servo and checked vacuum while the condition is occuring? >> YES Using the DRBIII Does the Vehicle Speed Sensor read Inaccurate and / or Erratic? >> NO Using the DRBIII; Is the PCM actuating the vaccum solenoid and keeping the vent solenoid energized as the condition occurs. >> YES While observing the DRBIII; Does the PCM retain the original SET SPEED when the condition occurs? >> YES Is concern, speed control remains engaged, but won't maintain set speed? >> YES Have you checked TSB's & performed all applicable diagnostic procedures? >> YES Recommendation Check servo ground by with a high current draw test lamp Vehicle will not hold set speed => Verify adequate vacuum supply to the servo.;What is the general nature of your question or concern? >> Speed Control Concerns What type of speed control problem do you have? >> Installation of Mopar Accessories speed control Have you checked TSB's & performed all applicable diagnostic procedures? >> YES Have you teed a vacuum gauge at the servo and checked vacuum while the condition is occuring? >> NO Using the DRBIII Does the Vehicle Speed Sensor read Inaccurate and / or Erratic? >> NO Using the DRBIII; Is the PCM actuating the vaccum solenoid and keeping the vent solenoid energized as the condition occurs. >> YES While observing the DRBIII; Does the PCM retain the original SET SPEED when the condition occurs? >> YES Is concern, speed control remains engaged, but won't maintain set speed? >> YES Recommendation Verify adequate vacuum supply to the servo. Vacuum observed on the gauge should read the same or higher than manifold vacuum. The speed control servo requires at least 5 in-hg for the servo to pull the throttle all the way open. If the vacuum observed on gauge is lower than manifold vacuum check for restrictions or vacuum leaks between manifold and the servo. Vehicle will not hold set speed => Monitor speed control switch voltage.;What is the general nature of your question or concern? >> Speed Control Concerns What type of speed control problem do you have? >> Installation of Mopar Accessories speed control Have you checked TSB's & performed all applicable diagnostic procedures? >> YES While observing the DRBIII; Does the PCM retain the original SET SPEED when the condition occurs? >> NO Is concern, speed control remains engaged, but won't maintain set speed? >> YES Recommendation Monitor Speed Control Switch Sense voltage. If the voltage on the speed control switch sense is not steady and the voltage drops within the correct range the pcm could change the Set Speed as if the coast or accel button were depressed. Check speed control switch, wiring , connections. I do wish you the best... Good Luck  

I have a 2000 3.0 grand caravan and I too have the same CC problem but I got to feel how this problem quit working. I was getting on highway and got to right speed and engaged CC.and within a couple mins felt the van hesitate drop speed and thought I lost all power but thankfully it was just the CC. I have yet to check the vacuum lines but I just got done fixing the transmission solenoid pack went into limp mode thanks for all ideas  

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Cruise control won't engage

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The cruise control will turn on, but it will not engage. I changed out the steering wheel switch assembly and also checked the brake switch. The brake switch has a normally open and normally closed electrical connections. Both connections switch when the button is released and return to their normal condition when depressed. Any suggestions? I do have an OBD reader and it does not show any error codes. Also, it does show the vehicle's speed, so I think the speed sensor is working.  

There is very little in the system left to check. I'm assuming there are no other warning lights on the dash? It may be as simple as a failing switch on the steering wheel. What is the year and trim of your van? -Charlie  

The vehicle is an 2015 EX-L. Actually, there is an occasional SRS light that comes on, but is intermittent. I'm not sure what that's about. I should have mentioned that this vehicle is new to me and was in an accident and has a rebuilt title. Several air bags deployed. The SRS module appears to be functioning properly and was reprogrammed after the accident. But as I said, the light has occasionally come on. It's got me wondering if it might be a clock spring issue that could have been damaged when the airbag deployed.  

Welcome to the forum. Year and trim level is often useful. How are you testing the brake switch? With the brake pedal or by hand? Per this video, the brake switch can be ever so slightly engaged even with your foot off of the brake pedal if the pad that the push pin sits against is worn enough.  

I originally tried the penny trick. It didn't work so I I actually removed it and checked it with an Ohm meter.  

Ok, I took a quick peek at the diagrams... The cruise control buttons are connected with multiple wires to the gauge cluster, so a single damaged wire in the spiral cable could affect a single button. (often, cruise controls on the steering wheel are 1-wire with multiple different resistances for each function) If you remove the airbag, you should be able to access the harness for the cruise control buttons. Check for continuity between the black wire and the purple wire with the SET button pressed or not. Or just check for visible damage in there - there may be some hidden stuff... (and no, I don't know how to remove the airbag... hopefully somebody else can chime in on that) -Charlie  

phattyduck said: (and no, I don't know how to remove the airbag... hopefully somebody else can chime in on that) -Charlie Click to expand...

Does your horn work? If not, check your clock spring and/or horn fuse.  

Crazy thing. It turns out the problem was that the shift indicator light was off so that the computer did not fully recognize that the vehicle was in drive. It sensed it was in neutral so it would not allow the cruise control to engage.  

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Cruise control not working

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I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8L 4x4. My cruise control isn't working. The light on the steering wheel controls comes on but the green light does not and the cruise will not engage. I have checked the fuses and all the fuses are still good. All three of my brake lights are working along with my turn signals. I replaced the brake light switch after reading some forums on here. Is there a certain way it is suppose to be installed? I replaced it the same way the other switch was in there. But it still isn't working so I have no idea. I have checked the connector before attaching to the brake light switch and there didn't seem to be anything wrong with it or the wires. Can someone please help? I don't really want to take it to the dealership. Thank you in advance! Ricky  

Where did you get the replacement switch? I don't trust electrical parts from the big box parts houses. I've had bad parts out of the box from them.  

I got the replacement switch from oreilly's auto parts. And I bought it from an in town store instead of oreilly's online in case of damaged parts.  

I'd try a factory part......  

Ok I try anything. Do you think it could be anything with the steering wheel controls? Like a loose wire on the set button? I have no idea is why I'm asking!  

Does anyone have another idea other than a factory part? I'll try and order one tomorrow.  

Wish there was more advice I could give, but the factory GM switch just might do the trick. It worked for me as soon as I installed it in my 08 Sierra. Just in case, here's the part number ACDelco D1586H. Good luck.  

The same problem plagued me. Tried all the same things, checked the wires and connectors from the brake pedal switch all the way to the throttle body. After replacing the brake pedal switch for the second time and fooling around with the wiring it started working again, but... I have to press the set button very quickly twice in a row for it to work.  

Ok thanks guys I'll try the new switch and see if that works!  

Ok I got the ac delco switch and got it installed and still no cruise. This is the third switch. Any ideas?  

It is time to get a wiring diagram and check the circuit.  

I have the same issue with my 09. I'm assuming it's gonna be a bad switch ...contact or other stupid gm error. Hopefully you find a fix  

Had this same problem in another truck of mine. Try pulling back on the brake pedal with your foot before you set the cruise and see if it works. And also if your remote start is still working then it's not the brake pedal switch.  

Time to get a multimeter and schematic and start troubleshooting.  

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• cruise-control-1-of-1.pdf 32.4 KB Views: 507

I would take the time to pull and check all the fuses inside and under the hood. I had this happen on my 2011 and I can't remember which fuse it was but I never would've thought it was the one I replaced that fixed.  

This just started happening to me as well - 2008 Silverado 1500 ltz. light on steering wheel switch illuminates, but no indicator on dash and no cruise.....  

Make sure all bulbs are working in the High mount Brake light. [Back of cab] All bulbs have to light for cruise to work. Hope this will fix it. Did on my 05 crew cab.  

Found 2 bad bulbs in high mount brake light assy, but now no indicator that shows cruise is on..... weird  

The high mount brake is working Right. installed the same type of bulbs. works off the load of the bulbs not light that's way they have to be same type bulb  

I replaced my brake light switch with a brand new one from advance auto and had the same issue I started with. Carried it to a friends shop to make sure I wasn't a complete idiot and had actually put it on right, which he confirmed (that it was on right, not that I'm an idiot). Went back and got another switch and it was fixed. My brake lights were staying on though so a brake light switch probably isn't the problem in your case.  

have the same problem in 2008 gmc....... both of my high mount bulbs (3rd brakelamp) were burned out. replaced them with bulb # 921 from oreilly auto parts = $5. Cruise still not working, but light on the switch is on. guess I will try a new brakelight switch.  

Is there Two switches one for brake light and one for cruise or is it a two in one switch. Try unplugging the switch and see if it works. Remember you'll have to shut of Cruise manually if it works or just put a jumper across the wire plug term.  

1 switch for brake light and cruise control  

Is there a cruise control light on the dash of a 2000 Silverado 1500 that says when it's on? My CC isn't working either and I have no clue where to even begin troubleshooting it. Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated.  

Is the Service Engine Light on cruise won't work  

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Cruise control will not turn on. light on dash use to come on. cruise will not work. checked fuse it is ok

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• Master 984 Answers
• Posted on Feb 05, 2010

Did you have the recall for the cruise control done ? recall 05S28. Description: Speed Control Deactivation Switch. It could be the fuse in the recall harness is blown. Try the Cruise Control Self test : ---------------------------------- Self-Test Diagnostics WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged. 1. Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch. 2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL. If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over. The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch. Note: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes. 3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes: — 2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped). — 3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective. — 4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective 4. Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position. 5. Return the ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart. ---------------------------- If the Cruise Control does not enter self test, the fuse in the recall harness ( if done ) is most likely blown and needs to be replaced.

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Philip armitage.

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• Posted on Oct 02, 2009

SOURCE: the horn and cruise control doesn't work,fuses are

the horn input to ground is located in the cruise control module. if they both don't work then your cruise control module or the clockspring coil for the steering wheel needs to be replaced. If airbag lights is on as well then I would change the clockspring coil first.

• 811 Answers
• Posted on Sep 27, 2009

SOURCE: Please help....I have a 2002 Acura TL Type S. The

check under hood for other fuses or relays

Dennis Boxerman

• 1306 Answers
• Posted on Mar 15, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 Denali Yukon, no Brake lights, no Cruise Control, fuse is OK

Check your brake light switch at the pedal. This controls the lights and disengages the cruise when stopping. I'd look there before I go anywhere else. There may just be a wire loose. Could be a simple fix. Good Luck and hope this helps.

• 405 Answers
• Posted on Dec 15, 2008

SOURCE: 2003 expedition cruise control inoperative

Dave, I am sorry I can't help you, but it sounds like you know what your doing, all I can do is offer you the troubleshoot guide, for a ford car cruise control, which should be the same. You can purchase for 20.00 on alldatadiy.com and it will give you all service info on your specific vehicle for a year. I think it is well worth the money, and generally when I need to repair any vehicle with problems it has been a life saver. I am pretty sure the electronics for this are contained in the cruise module it's self. Alldata will have a trouble shooting guide that will walk you through the repair. It could be the actual button on the steering wheel, it could be the module. You can buy these pretty cheap if you go to car-parts.com and put in what you need. Of course these are used but most yards give a warranty on them.

• 962 Answers
• Posted on Nov 20, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 expedition cruise control inoperative no

Check the speed sensor at the tranny or near left front tire. Use a manual or find the location on the net. This sensor usually causes problems with the cruise control.

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