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Seawater begins its journey down the tower.

Meet the maker: the Scottish salt producers using age-old techniques

Using a historical technique involving a structure called a graduation tower, Gregorie Marshall has brought salt production back to Ayrshire.

18 Jan 2022, 14:01 GMT — The striking structure standing on the Ayrshire waterfront looks like a giant art installation. But the timber A-frame, slotted with spiky bundles of blackthorn branches, has a practical purpose: to produce sea salt.

It’s the work of master salter Gregorie Marshall, founder of Blackthorn Salt , who visited Germany and Poland to view the ancient graduation towers there, which were once used to produce rock salt. Upon returning home, Gregorie — who originally trained as an architect — drew up plans for a similar structure, to produce sea salt, and with the help of a structural engineer and local craftsmen, in 2019 it was ready.

Salt is as much a part of Gregorie’s heritage as Ayrshire's. In addition to Blackthorn Salt, he also runs Peacock Salt, a company set up by his great-grandfather in 1874. But while Peacock — a salt importer — has thrived for nearly 150 years, domestic salt production in Scotland has declined during this time, with the last Scottish pan house closing down in 1959.

Now, thanks to Gregorie, salt is being produced in Ayrshire once more, using nothing but west coast seawater and a traditional method, which, although new to Scotland, dates back to the sixth century. Seawater, pumped to the top of the tower, trickles slowly down through the blackthorn branches, the increased surface area created by the thorns accelerating the evaporation process. The cycle is repeated until the salinity of the water has risen from 3.5% to about 22%. The resulting brine is then pumped into the neighbouring pan house, where it’s heated. At this stage, the exquisite, pyramid salt crystals start to form.

"We worked with the University of Strathclyde to determine the best angle of the tower for maximum evaporation," explains Gregorie. The west coast winds and the sun do the rest. "The tower is built from timber — Scottish larch and fir — and the salt air will help to preserve the wood."

Blackthorn (sloe) was chosen on account of its huge thorns and the generous surface area they provide. Gregorie sourced half of the blackthorn from Scotland, with the rest coming from Poland, but has plans to plant and coppice his own bushes. “It's a hardwood, so hopefully it will last around seven to 10 years before it needs replacing. And it's sustainable."

The slow trickle of water is hypnotic, as is the structure from the inside, the light filtering through the branches, the atmosphere damp. There's only a faint hint of salt on the air at the start of the process. “Sometimes it smells of fish bisque," Gregorie adds, smiling. As we clamber up the wooden steps through a trap door onto the roof, he points out the original Maryborough pan houses in the distance.

Traditional table salt is about 99% sodium chloride. Unbleached and beige-hued (from the tannins), Blackthorn Salt is only 94% — what remains contains 60 or 70 minerals, including magnesium and calcium, which influence the flavour. The result? A subtler, sweeter and mellower salt, created in the most mesmerising way.

Top three local ingredients

Ayrshire Earlies: The humble Ayrshire 'tattie' was granted PGI (protected geographical indication) status in 2019 after a campaign by Girvan Early Growers co-operative. A variety of new potato dating back to 1859, it benefits from the mild, west-coast climate and sandy soil. Harvested from May, it has a sweet, creamy taste.

Ayrshire dunlop: The distinctive Ayrshire brown-and-white cow produces a rich, tasty, creamy milk that’s high in fat and protein. It’s used to make Ayrshire Dunlop, a traditional farmhouse cheddar-style cheese first produced in the village of Dunlop in the 17 th century. It was awarded PGI status in 2015. dunlopdairy.co.uk

Ayrshire bacon: It's the method of curing that’s key to the distinctive Ayrshire bacon. The skin and bones are removed from the outdoor-reared pork, which is then slow-cured in salt, with the fatty, streaky bacon rolled around the back bacon. ramsayofcarluke.co.uk

Published in Issue 14 (winter 2021) of National Geographic Traveller Food (UK)

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Blackthorn Salt: Reviving Scotland's Salt-Making Tradition

Welcome to the love your local larder podcast a podcast that celebrates local produce with the people who cook and grow it..

Blog written by Rachel Henderson.

In this episode, we embark on a captivating journey into the world of Blackthorn Salt , an extraordinary organic salt-making company located on the scenic West Coast of Scotland. Co-founded by Whirly and Gregorie, whose family heritage is deeply rooted in the salt industry, Blackthorn Salt was born from a dream to revive the Scottish salt-making tradition. Join us as we explore the company's origins, its impressive production process, and the sustainable edge that sets Blackthorn Salt apart. To top it off, we had the pleasure of finishing our discussion with a taste test, comparing Blackthorn salt to commonly used salts to uncover the differences.

When I asked Suzie, our host, about her experience with Blackthorn Salt, this is what she had to say: “Sadly, I never made it to meet Gregorie and Whirly as a random snowstorm occurred while I was driving there. I had to turn back, only to learn the snowstorm was gone within a couple of hours. One of those days! However, my chat with them was absolutely fascinating. I knew nothing about salt and just how many minerals there are; the difference in taste from salt to salt was remarkable. Lovely people with truly fascinating minds, able to transform simple branches into a salt mine!”

Listen to the podcast episode here...

The story of Scottish salt-making is one of resilience and ingenuity. Historically, salt was produced near a coal mine using a laborious process that involved burning excess coal to evaporate sea water. However, this industry eventually faded, with the last pan house closing its doors in the 1950s. Gregorie and Whirly were inspired to bring this age-old process back to life, relying solely on sea water, wind, and the blackthorn shrub. After two decades of dedicated effort, Blackthorn has successfully revitalised the salt industry on the West Coast of Scotland, proudly reintroducing salt to a region where it once a played a vital role in the local economy and the daily lives of its residents.

Gregorie's journey began when he encountered the remarkable graduation towers in Poland and Germany. Even though those thorn towers had been dormant for over 50 years, Gregorie was deeply inspired by their practicality, naturalness and beauty. Therefore, he decided to create his own version back home. The Blackthorn Tower, a striking structure overlooking the sea and the mountains of Arran, plays a central role in the production process. Stacked with blackthorn shrubs, each boasting thorns up to six inches long, the tower enables sea water to trickle down, increasing the surface area for natural evaporation. I n 2019, a historic moment unfolded as sea water, rather than rock brine, gently cascaded down this custom-made thorn tower, allowing the very first batch of Blackthorn Salt crystals to be hand-harvested. The passion and dedication of this couple is truly admirable and has served to connect them to their roots and heritage.

Sustainability lies at the heart of Blackthorn Salt's ethos. Unlike most salt-making processes in northern Europe, the thorn tower method is entirely natural and environmentally friendly, with 90% of the process driven by the wind and the sun. This reliance on the natural environment makes the process meticulous and heavily dependent on weather conditions. To reduce waste and extend the life cycle of the Tower, they are devoted to a circular economy. Their steadfast focus remains on adhering to these sustainable practices.

In addition to this, the main principle of the company is dedication to producing the highest quality of salt. The ingredients used are solely West Coast sea water and blackthorn, resulting in an exceptionally natural product crafted by Scottish weather and their unique tower. This unique approach imparts a distinct character to the salt, enhancing the earthy and savoury aspects of food.

As a result of its naturalness, the salt produced by Blackthorn is rich in essential minerals like manganese, potassium, and calcium, making it a favourite among food enthusiasts and athletes alike. The calcium enhances the sweetness of food, while potassium and magnesium, with their sour and bitter notes, accentuate different aspects of flavours. Customers who are marathon runners, for instance, have used it to create rehydration packs due to its rich mineral content, and they claim it’s one of the best re-energising sources! Adding to their efforts in sustainability, Blackthorn also dedicated a year to designing an eco-friendly box, devoid of plastic, that is both efficient and user-friendly during cooking.

The taste test revealed the superiority of Blackthorn Salt. Suzie immediately noticed the difference in structure between the salts. Blackthorn salt has a special crystalline structure that delivers a satisfying crunch. Whirly recommends sprinkling it by hand to maintain the crunch and ensure even distribution. When compared to common table salt and pink Himalayan salt, Blackthorn's distinct blend of minerals enhances the flavour of food without overpowering it. Unlike table salt and Himalayan salt, Blackthorn Salt retains around 6% of beneficial minerals, resulting in a well-rounded taste experience.

With its commitment to sustainable practices and dedication to preserving the Scottish salt-making heritage, Blackthorn Salt stands as a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship of this essential kitchen ingredient. The result is a premium salt, abundant in essential minerals, cherished by food enthusiasts. Blackthorn Salt bridges the gap between tradition and innovation, offering a flavourful and sustainable future. We encourage you to try the salt for yourself and experience its unique qualities. Find out more about Blackthorn Salt here and embark on your own culinary journey.

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Blackthorn Scottish Sea Salt

+44(0)1292 292029

Blackthorn is an incredible sea salt, delicious and sparkling: beautiful flakes with a wonderful sense of terroir.

Blackthorn use 100% pure west coast sea water to work their magic. You really can taste the sea and nature. The crystals have a tiny hint of golden hue from passing through the thorny sloe (blackthorn) branches, trickling peacefully over the thorns and down the tower. Each twig with its enhanced surface area from the thorns plays it role in increasing the salinity as the water drops travel downwards. The sea wind does the rest until only an intense briny liquid is left to collect at its base. Ascending the tower is simultaneously awesome and calming: the constant gentle sound and the strong wooden beams are reassuring and powerful. Food production using the elements!

And what is this tower?? The graduation thorn tower is the only one of its kind in the British Isles and indeed the only one in the world today producing salt. When they were in use they were not even used for sea water but linked to underground springs where land was rich in salt deposits so Blackthorn has quite a few firsts to its name!

Such towers existed to produce salt by removal of moisture through evaporation within giant wooden frames. The massive bundles of blackthorn are key to its success due to the impressive surface area where the thorns are a key contributor. There are still a few towers in existence in Germany, Poland and Austria where they are used in spas for their recognised health benefits, linked to springs and nowhere near the sea! In their quest to create Scotland’s first thorn tower, the Marshalls visited Poland and whilst it was a fascinating learning journey, no one remained who had constructed the towers and so the skills were lost. On returning to Scotland, they set about designing and working with an enthusiastic group of craftsmen and the result is fantastic.

Once Blackthorn’s salty brine leaves the thorn tower, it spends a short time in the panhouse to form the final beautiful inverted crystals that make Blackthorn Sea Salt. Their tower is within metres of at least eight historical salt-making businesses that were once in Ayrshire – such incredible historical links.

Blackthorn Salt is both environmental and an exceptional example of craftsmanship. Producing top quality delicious sea salt in this incredible structure, using nature, it has a real sense of place in terms of the local history of salt and in terms of the terroir the Marshalls have achieved in their product.

With great flexibility in this charming space and pop up tables and benches available, it has great potential for future events, as they say, be it salty days or foodie nights!

‘Blackthorn is proud to have brought salt home to the West Coast of Scotland where it was once such a thriving local industry, essential to the daily lives of local people.’

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Coronavirus

An unexpected reinvention: Blackthorn Salt

When Covid-19 hit, new speciality business Blackthorn Salt had to drastically rethink its plans. The husband and wife team Gregorie and Whirly Marshall and explains how, with an inventive blend of creativity, passion and staying true to the cause, they made it work

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An unexpected reinvention: Blackthorn Salt

After visiting a graduation tower around 12 years ago, Blackthorn Salt ‘s Gregorie was drawn to the unorthodox idea that this would be the best, most practical and effective way to bring back salt-making to the Scottish West Coast, where historically there had been lots of thriving local salt boiling enterprises. In this weird and wonderful method, salty water is trickled down an enormous wall of blackthorn bundles, evaporating all the time to produce even saltier brine using only the forces of nature: wind and sun. The trickle-factor means that we use approximately 85% less power to draw salt crystals from seawater than traditional methods.

Gregorie took a punt: this slow, sustainable process hasn’t ever been used to make sea salt crystals before; and, there are no other Thorn Towers producing salt today…

In Panhouse we complete the process and gather the crystals - our Salters have developed the ‘Blackthorn Technique’, involving alchemy and intuition in order to produce the perfect salt: a quest we don’t take lightly. Finally, after a week or so from leaving the sea, the delicately golden salt crystals are poured into wee recyclable boxes. There no additions made, no bleaching or chemicals involved, merely filtering. The result is a salt which restaurants and hotels, such as The Fife Arms , and chefs, who have had the chance to try it, such as Garry McLean and Steven Lamb, are excited about. The Blackthorn bark tannins lend the salt a certain depth of flavour, which is ‘zinged up’ by its essential smack of the sea (in a good way) – people report a sweetness that echos across tastebuds after the initial saltiness.

Nothing about Blackthorn happens quickly, so it was with great excitement that we had finally reached lift-off in March: tower snagging and pan experimenting done, boxes designed and filled. We invited some interested chefs and foodies for an informal salt session on March 24th 2020. We envisaged this would be followed by a series of traditional launch events for local enterprises, press, and some national plans to introduce Blackthorn Salt to the UK. None of this happened. Needless to say, we hadn’t dreamt that spring and summer would pan out the way it did…

At the start of Lockdown, we frantically busied ourselves with the immediate requirements of homelife, schooling etc. and put a halt on Blackthorn plans until the country returned to normal… or so we thought. We followed the news and were soon undeniably humbled by amazing stories of hope and basic human kindness. In contrast, we couldn’t help but feel that we’d been automatically defeatist, selfish and inward looking. Thinking hard, we realised we could contribute in a small way: no, neither of us are medically trained and shielding/child care needs meant complications with volunteering, but we had the ability to provide a real treat – Blackthorn Salt - for those that would be interested. The ‘Blackthorn Co-vid Rejig’ was born: the entire first batch was dedicated to the UK’s cause against Coronavirus. We were under no illusions as to the real difference we could make, but we aimed at least to spread some smiles and positive distraction.

We sent out 19 parcels, each containing a box of Blackthorn, a wee bottle of home-made Sloe Gin and three tickets for further Blackthorn boxes. Recipients were tasked to ‘Pass the Salt’ - they could send an image of tickets to others who’d be cheered by a free box of Blackthorn; with each subsequent recipient, we included three tickets and the final tier had one.

With ‘Support Salt’ we sought out kitchens cooking support meals for key workers and provided tubs of Blackthorn Salt to them, for free. The hope was that it would be useful and might at least bring an interesting diversion for those whose days were so intense.

Finally, we released the rest of the batch at the cost of postage alone. We called this ‘Community/Charity Salt’. The premise was still not looking for profit, nor even to cover losses, but for every box given, we donated the actual cost of the salt to The South Ayrshire Food Bank, Hospitality Health, and the National Emergencies Trust.

The Blackthorn Covid re-jig made little to no business sense, but it felt better than sitting tight when so many people were risking or suffering so much.

Now, emerging tentatively into the world of masks and distancing, we have to tighten our belts and get cracking. We are working away trying to reach those who would like to hear of us and are delighted to be stocked on The Cress Co’s online marketplace. Recently, we have enjoyed showing chefs and journalists around the Tower, including some brilliant and impromptu cooking/tasting sessions where the visitors have taken on the wee Esse and salt in the Blackthorn HQ – a Victorian railway carriage. Although great fun, fundamentally, these tours represent a special taster of the things that are important to us and part of why we are so passionate about insisting on trying to make the absolute best salt we can. Best in terms of taste, yes, but also in terms of everything else that brings that taste together – the environment, our priorities, the historical legacy of our location and our responsibility to the wider food world and beyond.

We look forward to the next chapter with optimism, hope and a readiness to work hard.

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Husband and wife team bring salt-making back to Scotland

Blackthorn Salt uses a traditional graduation method to turn sea water off the Ayrshire coast into salt.

A husband and wife team have worked together to bring salt-making back to Scotland by using the country’s only graduation tower.

Gregorie and Whirly Marshall, owners of Blackthorn Salt, came across the graduation tower method of extracting salt, which dates back hundreds of years.

Mr Marshall, whose family has worked in the salt industry on the Ayrshire coast for generations, said it was always a dream of his to continue on the family business.

Speaking to the PA news agency, Mr Marshall said he had been playing with the idea of starting his own salt company for more than 15 years.

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“We finished building around two years ago”, he said.

“We got a builder in, Archie McConnell, who’d done some green woodworking and he managed to find a few like-minded people to help out.

“We had a year of running it, to work out what worked best – it was quite nerve-wracking, the first production.

“But I’m relieved to say, and of course I’m a bit biased, that it tasted great.”

The sea salt is created by piping salt water from the sea into the tower.

It is then trickled down though 54 taps down a bed of blackthorn bushes.

This process is repeated, sometimes thousands of times, before enough water is evaporated to move to the next stage.

The remaining brine is then gently heated to evaporate the remaining water, and then the sea salt is harvested.

Mr Marshall said this process allows for a sweeter, milder salt, which greatly enhances food.

He said it was “similar to making a cup of tea” in that “if you add milk and sugar to a tea, it greatly changes the flavour, even though it only makes up 4 or 5%.

“Our salt is around 94% sodium chloride versus the 99% you’d see in regular table salt, meaning that the remaining 6% is made up of magnesium, potassium and calcium, and they all have an effect on the flavour – it becomes a much more mellow and slower release. It’s less harsh than the sharp table salt.”

With the product ready to launch, Blackthorn Salt planned to invite a number of chefs on a tour of the tower to spread the word about its product.

However, Covid-19 and lockdown hit and everything came to a standstill.

“We had to change things quite a bit”, Mr Marshall remembered. “We had all this product sitting around, and weren’t quite sure what to do.

“We ended up coming up with a plan called Pass the Salt. We had been speaking to local chefs and had planned this big launch of the product.

“Instead, we decided to give it away to those 19, with vouchers so they could pass on to others, who would get vouchers to pass on to others – it was a way to bring a bit of happiness during a really tough time.

“I didn’t feel comfortable being pushy and trying to sell it – the hospitality industry was really struggling and it didn’t feel right. So this was a way to bring a smile to someone’s face.”

Mr Marshall said that while the tower is completed, the work is never over, adding: “We’re always looking at the process and how to harness the energy we have – whether that be the wind or sun.

“If we can increase the temp of the brine, we can increase the rate of evaporation.

“In terms of the business, we hope to get the product out there so people can appreciate what good salt is, and how it can affect the flavour of food in such a positive way.”

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100% blackthorn scottish sea salt flakes (two sizes).

Description

Made with wind, sea and thorns on the West Coast of Scotland, Blackthorn Salt is the ultimate transformative ingredient for today’s kitchen. Poignant and bittersweet, with a taste echoing sea, Blackthorn Salt adds a rolling moreishness to any meal.

This attractive 4.25oz Blackthorn box is perfect for as a thoughtful wee present, to include in a hamper or for foodies looking to broaden their salt knowledge and try something different without having to spend too much. We would recommend keeping this wee box out on the table for adding that finishing sprinkle. It’s designed to keep the salt safe, dust free and is handily wide enough to take a pinch, but is also free from any plastics, is sustainably sourced and fully recyclable.

100% Scottish Sea Salt Flakes - made with wind, sea and thorns on the West Coast of Scotland
The only thorn tower in the world producing salt today
Natural and sustainable process – using 85% less energy than traditional UK processes
Hailed by some of the country’s top chefs as exceptional in its tastes
The perfect gift for any adventurous foodies!

Customer Reviews

This salt has a unique taste and I love the profile. I think you'll be quite appreciative of the depth of flavor it comes with. The process to produce it is pretty amazing and I fully believe the flavor reflects that. Jacque

Second time purchasing the 100% Blackthorn Scottish Sea Salt Flakes; use the flakes when grilling or baking wild venison and domestic lamb cuts. The sea salt enhances the flavors of each meat.

100% Blackthorn Scottish Sea Salt Flakes

which says much of the importance of it. Truly; salt is mostly salt, but patronizing the exports from Scotland is an important loyalty and something that benefits the Scottish economy. The product itself is entirely excellent and we are happy to have it available for home use, both table and cooking uses.

The salt has a unique taste and is delicious

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Best tea ever.

They were very tasty

You know how to keep the good stuff available and easily accessible

I had to bake them a little longer than the instruction said but they taste fantastic.

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