china trips fenghuang

Top Things to Do in Fenghuang, China and 2 Days Itinerary

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Top Things to Do in Fenghuang, China

Are you going on a trip to  China  and you have decided to visit  Fenghuang  (凤凰), in the province of Hunan?

You will not regret it!

In order to help you prepare for your stay , I have concocted  a complete guide  to this superb old town.

What to do and see in 1 or 2 days in Fenghuang  and the surrounding area,  how to get there  and  where to stay , I tell you everything!

So  how to visit Fenghuang?

Visit Fenghuang: all my tips

Fenghuang , the city of the Phoenix is ​​one of (if not the!) most beautiful old towns in China.

Classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was built on the banks of the Tuo River and is famous for  its wooden houses on stilts , the Diaojiaolou (吊脚楼). Most of them date from the  Ming  and  Qing  dynasties (between the 14th and 17th centuries).

The main activity on site is of course to  walk in the old town , you can make a loop and visit the 2 banks by crossing one  of the many bridges  that span the river.

The place is very touristic (for Chinese, there are not many Westerners visiting Fenghuang), so you will find many  souvenir/food/jewelry shops  and of course  restaurants.

Basically, the city acted as a military garrison. You will therefore find  some remains of fortifications , including a rampart which crosses the city and some old guard towers.

Not far from Fenghuang, you can also visit  the Great Wall of Southern China , which I tell you about a little further down in the “ what to do around Fenghuang ” section of this article.

In addition to  visiting Fenghuang on foot,  you also have the option of donning a nice orange life jacket (or not) to  take a gondola ride on the river . As you can imagine: the Chinese love it.

And to give a little Venetian touch to the thing,  some gondoliers do not hesitate to push the song , under the approval of the Chinese angels.

Tips for your Fenghuang Itinerary: The best times to take a gondola ride are early in the morning or late in the day.

Fenghuang at Night

Once night falls, the old town totally changes its face:  many Chinese tourists come to Fenghuang to party, the streets are very lively and the bars are crowded!

And I have to tell you,  I didn’t expect that at all  before visiting the city.

I thought it would be pretty quiet with few tourists, but I was very wrong. In the evening, Fenghuang really transforms into  Lijiang  (very touristy old town of  Yunnan  province ) of Hunan.

In any case, I reassure you: that did not prevent me from  taking advantage of the superb lighting  which highlights the buildings once the evening has come.

Tips for your Fenghuang Itinerary: Do you like taking pictures?  The best time to photograph Fenghuang  is during the “blue hour”, just after sunset, when it is not yet dark.

At night, also go for a walk in  the easternmost part of the old town , on the side of the large covered bridge.

Not necessarily very attractive during the day because built in Disneyland mode in a style close to the old one, the place is however  very photogenic at night  (photo below). As they say: it’s beautiful from afar, in the dark!

What to do around Fenghuang?

Great wall of southern china.

And yes, close to Fenghuang is  the Great Wall of Southern China . Built in the 16th century during the Ming Dynasty to protect China from the rebellion of the Miao (a local ethnic group), it is also called the “Great Wall of the Miao” by the locals.

Smaller and much less known than its big sister in the North, it is nevertheless a nice visit to do if you spend 2 or 3 days in the vicinity of Fenghuang.

To  go to the Southern Great Wall from Fenghuang , you must:

• Go to the bus station located south of Fenghuang  (its name in Chinese, for the taxi: 土桥垅车站)
• Take the bus to the wall . Show the Chinese name to the drivers (Great Wall of Southern China:中国南长城), who will tell you which one to take (there are no numbers). The bus costs 5 yuan for around 30 minutes.

Entrance fee:  45 yuan.

Qiliang Cave

Located 10 to 15 minutes by taxi north of Fenghuang,  Qiliang Cave  is not well known to Western tourists. It is however a great visit, especially if you do not have the opportunity to see other caves during your  trip to China .

A small note:  it is, like all the caves in the country,  laid out “Chinese style” , so do not expect lighting with a natural rendering. It’s very flashy with lights of all colors!

Plan around 2 hours for the visit.

Furong Old Town

Located 2:30 – 3 hours from Fenghuang,  Furong  Old Town  is a must-stop if you plan to travel to  Zhangjiajie . Much smaller than Fenghuang, Furong is famous for  the very pretty waterfall  that crosses it.

To get there,  take the Fenghuang-Zhangjiajie bus  and ask the driver to stop at Furong.

All the info for visiting Furong is in my article:  The Ultimate Guide to Furong .

Tips for your Fenghuang Itinerary: Try to be there at the end of the day and spend the night there, it’s superb!

Zhangjiajie

Zhangjiajie National Park  is the star attraction in the  Hunan  region , and you’ve probably already planned to go there!

Famous throughout the world for  these vertiginous karst peaks , it is the quintessential Chinese postcard setting.

In addition to the park, if you have 3 days there or more, I also recommend that you take a trip to  Tianmen Mountain  to discover its rocky arch and the glass bridges suspended above the void.

Visiting time : 2 to 4 full days

Are you going to Zhangjiajie? I recommend that you read my travel guide:  How to organize your stay in Zhangjiajie?

1 Day Fenghuang Itinerary

If you only want to visit the old town,  1 day is enough to visit Fenghuang.

On the other hand, I strongly advise you to spend a night there , the illuminated city being really magnificent! Here is  the best itinerary for 1 day in Fenghuang:

• Arrive late afternoon  (around 4-5pm) and visit the city
• Enjoy the evening in Fenghuang
• If you like to take pictures,  take a short walk around the city again the next morning  to take advantage of the beautiful morning light.
• Otherwise,  departure for your next step!

2 Days Fenghuang Itinerary

In  2 days in Fenghuang , you will have time to take a tour of the surroundings, for example the  Great Wall of South China  (Southern Great Wall, also called Miaojiang Great Wall. In Chinese:苗疆邊牆)

Take the previous itinerary for day 1  and  go for a walk to the wall  in the morning or early afternoon for your 2nd day in Fenghuang.

Accommodation in Fenghuang

• Jiumu Youth Hostel :  very well located youth hostel with a super friendly staff. Night in dormitory from 5 euros.  Perfect for a stay in China with a small budget!
• FengHuang Ten People One House :  Bed and Breakfast very well located, with super friendly hosts. Night in a double room from 17 euros.
• Fenghuang Weijianshan Guesthouse :  very well located in the heart of the old town while being in a quieter alley. The rooms are very comfortable and the staff super friendly. Night in a double room from 30 euros.  It’s my favorite in Fenghuang for its price/performance ratio!
• Moon Land Art Hotel :  Located a little away from the old town, by the river. This is the quietest hotel you can find in the area. The bedding is super comfortable, the decor and the staff are top notch. Night in a double room from 120 euros.  The best choice for an upscale stay in Fenghuang!

When to go to Fenghuang?

Spring and autumn  are considered the best times to visit Fenghuang. The temperatures are mild and it rains less than in the middle of summer.

Here is a small summary of the climate in Fenghuang by season:

Spring:  the month of April is very good, the rainy season begins in May.

Summer:  This is the worst period, lots of rain! And yes, the 3 rainiest months in Fenghuang are June, July and August.

In autumn:  It is still quite warm and the rainy season is over. This is where you are most likely to have good weather.

In winter , it is the low tourist season: there are few people and you will be a little quieter to visit. If you are lucky, you may be able to visit Fenghuang under the snow!

How to get to Fenghuang?

You can go to Fenghuang by bus, train or plane.

This is the preferred mode of travel for most travelers to get to  Fenghuang . Most of you will probably come from  Zhangjiajie . The journey takes 4 hours.

If you come from afar and do not go through Zhangjiajie,  flying can be a good solution to visit Fenghuang.

In this case, you must:

• Fly to Tongren Airport
• From there, take a bus  that will take you to Fenghuang (about 1 hour drive).

Just like flying,  there is no train station in Fenghuang itself , so you have to  take the train to one of the 3 nearby major cities , then a bus to Fenghuang.

Here are the 3 closest stations:

• Jiushou – 1h by bus from Fenghuang
• Huaihua  – 1h15 by bus from Fenghuang
• Tongren – 1h30 by bus from Fenghuang

And you, do you plan to visit Fenghuang on your next trip to China?

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Steve Batides

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Your Ultimate Travel Guide to Fenghuang Ancient Town 2024

The last time I visited Fenghuang Ancient Town, I drove there with friends. My initial expectations of the town stemmed from a book by the renowned local writer, Mr. Shen Congwen. Today’s Fenghuang Ancient Town is no longer the tranquil place depicted in that book; it is bustling, and even when we sought refuge in an ancient town inn, finding peace is rare, as the liveliness persists until midnight.

In the early morning, there is a brief moment of tranquility in Fenghuang Ancient Town. We entered the ancient town as the day was breaking. If one could choose a quiet day during the off-peak season, Fenghuang Ancient Town is perfect for a leisurely stroll. With a whole day, it’s enough to explore every corner of the ancient town.

Starting from the North Gate Tower, passing by the YYang’s Ancestral Hall, and meandering to the East Gate, one can unintentionally circulate around the ancient town. Wandering aimlessly in Fenghuang Ancient Town, one might easily find themselves along the banks of the Tuo River. There, you might coincidentally witness a woman opening the window of a stilted building, a little yellow dog stretching lazily, and the tempting aroma of a meal wafting from a wooden building.

You might also be interested in: ⛰️ A Complete Guide to Zhangjiajie National Forest Park Adventure ⛵ Furong Ancient Town: Waterfall Wonders & Tujia Heritage

Table of Contents

🌟hunan travel planning guide, 🌏where is fenghuang ancient town located, ☀️ best time to visit fenghuang ancient town, 🚗how to get to fenghuang ancient town, 🎫visiting the fenghuang ancient town, 👑top must-see places in fenghuang ancient town worth exploring, 🎇 the miao ethnic minority festival, 🍖what to eat in fenghuang ancient town, 🏨 where to stay in fenghuang ancient town, 🌸final tips for fenghuang ancient town adventure, china travel planning guide&faq.

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase after clicking one of these links, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. You can learn more about this in my disclosure policy.

⭐ Considering a last-minute trip to Fenghuang Ancient Town? 1. 2 Days Relax Tour to Fenghuang Ancient Town from Zhangjiajie 2. 5 Days Zhangjiajie Beauty&Fenghuang Ancient Town Tour 🇨🇳 Top Activities and Tours in Zhangjiajie: 1. Full-Day Zhangjiajie National Forest Park Tour: Tianzi Mountain and Yuanjiajie 2. 3 Days Private Tour to Zhangjiajie National Park&Glass Bridge&Tianmen Mountain 🏨 Where to Stay: Sulv Lianhua Hotel (⭐️ 4.9) Phoenix City Boutique Hotel (⭐️ 4.8) Phoenix Youran Qingsu Hotel (⭐️ 4.9) Qingxi Chanyuan Hotel (⭐️ 4.7) 🌐Make sure to install ExpressVPN in advance for unrestricted internet access during your stay in China!

Fenghuang Ancient Town is situated in the southwestern part of the Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture in Hunan Province, covering an area of around 10 square kilometers. Comprising 28 ethnic groups, including the Miao, Han, and Tujia, it represents a typical region where diverse ethnic minorities coexist. This location serves as a crucial crossroads between Huaihua, Jishou, and Tongren in Guizhou. It is conveniently located, being 27 kilometers from Tongren Fenghuang Airport, 57 kilometers from Huaihua Zhijiang Airport, and 280 kilometers from Zhangjiajie Hehua International Airport.

Fenghuang Ancient Town has a subtropical monsoon climate. The annual average temperature in Fenghuang is between 12-16°C, with the hottest months being July and August, averaging around 24-27°C. The coldest month is January, with an average temperature ranging from 1.7-4.3°C.

The optimal time for visiting is considered to be during spring and autumn.

April to June marks the rainy season. During spring, the misty scenery along the Tuo River is considered one of the most beautiful sights in Fenghuang.

September to November is also a favorable period when the town is bustling with visitors, and the heat and rain of summer have subsided.

From December to March of the following year, Fenghuang enters winter, resulting in fewer tourists and a chance to witness the ancient town adorned in a silvery winter coat.

During events such as Miao New Year, Lusheng Festival, Sisters’ Meal Festival, March 3rd Festival, and June 6th Festival, Fenghuang Ancient Town attracts a large number of visitors.

It is advisable to avoid peak travel times during holidays such as the Qingming Festival, May 1st, and National Day (Oct. 1), as these periods tend to have high tourist numbers and elevated expenses.

Travel Options to Fenghuang Ancient Town from Nearby Airports:

Zhangjiajie Hehua International Airport:

Board a direct bus from Zhangjiajie Hehua International Airport to Zhangjiajie Center Bus Station , followed by another bus to Fenghuang Ancient Town. Buses operate hourly, taking approximately 3.5 hours, and the fare is around CNY 80.

Changsha Huanghua International Airport:

Travel from Changsha Huanghua International Airport to Changsha West Bus Station , then take a long-distance bus to Fenghuang Ancient Town. Four buses run daily, with a ticket price of CNY 145 and a journey of about 5-7 hours.

Tongren Fenghuang Airport:

Utilize the direct bus service from Tongren Fenghuang Airport to Fenghuang Ancient Town, with a travel time of approximately 1.5 hours and a ticket cost of CNY 25 per person.

Huaihua Zhijiang Airport:

Catch a daily shuttle from Huaihua Zhijiang Airport directly to Fenghuang Ancient Town, departing at 13:00.

The nearest train station to Fenghuang Ancient Town is currently Jishou Station , located approximately 53 kilometers north of the ancient town, with a travel time of about 1-1.5 hours. Regular trains operate from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Nanning, Guiyang, and other cities. Upon arrival, visitors can take a direct bus to Fenghuang Ancient Town, with service available from 07:00 to 19:00, departing every 15 minutes.

Two-day Combo Ticket at CNY 128 per person, providing access to nine attractions: Former Residence of Shen Congwen, Tuojiang River Boating, Longevity Palace, Former Residence of Xiong Xiling, Yang’s Ancestral Hall, Hong Bridge, Chongde Hall, Fenghuang Ancient Town Museum,and East Gate Tower. The package fee is mandatory for individual entry to any single attraction.

1. Tuojiang River (沱江)

Taking a boat tour along the Tuojiang River is essential. There are two sections of boating on the Tuojiang River. The upper section involves regular cruise ships, boarding on the east side of the North Gate and sailing eastward to Longevity Palace, allowing passengers to admire the scenic beauty of the Tuojiang River. For the lower section, passengers board at the Guanguang Bridge Pier, using privately-owned boats, which are operated by local farmers and require separate tickets. Boat tours on the Tuojiang River are included in the general admission ticket for the overall scenic area.

The bars and stilted houses in Fenghuang Ancient City are built along the Tuojiang River. Walking along the river at night, the dazzling lights create a beautiful scene that rivals the daytime.

The Tuojiang Stepping Stone(沱江跳岩) is one of the popular attractions in the ancient city. This ancient bridge, initially built in the Tang Dynasty and later reconstructed in the Qing Kangxi period, serves as an ancient transportation route in Fenghuang Ancient City. The stepping stone is 100 meters long, with 15 stone piers covered by thick wooden boards. It is securely fastened with iron chains anchored to the riverbed, allowing pedestrians to walk freely. The name “Tuojiang Stepping Stone” comes from people crossing the river by hopping from one stone to another.

2. Stilted Building Group

The Stilted Building, one of the distinctive ancient structures in Fenghuang Ancient City, showcases the rich architectural features of the Miao ethnic group and stands as the largest group of stilted buildings in China.

Lining both sides of the Tuojiang River, the row of stilted buildings spans 240 meters, still housing several families today. These stilted buildings have upper floors suspended, while the lower sections either stand in the water or are supported by slanting wooden columns. Entirely constructed from wood, the exterior walls display a warm yellow-brown hue.

As tourism began to thrive in Fenghuang Ancient City, residents of the stilted buildings transformed them into guesthouses to accommodate visitors.

🌷Tips: For accommodation, it’s advisable to avoid the bustling central and upper reaches of the Tuojiang River, where commercialism is pronounced, and there are numerous bars and newly restored stilted buildings that lack the charm of the ancient city. Opting for the lower reaches, especially around Huilong Pavilion, offers a quieter experience, allowing you to immerse yourself in the authentic charm of western Hunan.

3. Former Residence of Xiong Xiling (熊希龄故居)

Xiong Xiling, born in Fenghuang Ancient City, was a prominent educator, social activist, industrialist, philanthropist, and distinguished patriot during the Republic of China era.

His former residence, tucked away in a quiet alley off Wenxing Street in the ancient city, is a Southern-style courtyard with traditional wooden and tile structures. The relatively small house, consisting of four rooms, has retained its original appearance.

Upon entering the entrance, a roughly ten-square-meter front room, also known as the reception room, is located on the left. To the east of the courtyard is a dedicated woodshed containing traditional tools such as stone mortars, bamboo hats, and raincoats. The main hall, a two-story wooden structure, showcases the artifacts and items used by Xiong Xiling during his lifetime.

Since the official opening of Xiong Xiling’s former residence to the public, it has attracted over a million visitors, becoming one of the prominent cultural landmarks in the ancient city.

4. Chaoyang Palace (朝阳宫)

Chaoyang Palace, also known as Chen Family Ancestral Hall, was constructed in the fourth year of the Republic of China and further expanded and perfected in 1923. The architecture of Chaoyang Palace includes a main gate, main hall, stage, side chambers, kitchen, restroom, and more, comprising a total of 14 rooms. All the structures seamlessly integrate to form a typical southern quadrangle courtyard.

The main gate of Chaoyang Palace is a purple-red brick gate tower, standing at a height of 8 meters, with symmetrically sculpted reliefs of landscapes, flowers, and birds on both sides, displaying flying eaves and upturned corners.

Upon entering the main gate and passing through the stage, a spacious quadrangle courtyard paved with square bluestones unfolds. Facing the courtyard is a three-room wooden main hall, historically used by the local gentry to watch performances. On both sides of the main hall, there are two-story chambers, each with three rooms. The lower level is open for the audience to take shelter from the rain, while the upper level features intricately carved wooden railings, providing a space for dignitaries to enjoy performances.

Facing the main hall is the ancient stage, typically hosting classical operas such as Yang Opera, Nuo Tang Opera, and Chenhe high-pitched tunes.

5. Fenghuang Ancient City Museum

Situated at the heart of the ancient city, the Fenghuang Ancient City Museum was once the century-old home of the Chen Baozhen family, a significant official in the late Qing Dynasty. Within its walls, precious historical items, photographs, and documents donated by Chen Baozhen’s descendants are on display, along with the wolf-skin cushion used in the carriage granted by Emperor Guangxu during Chen Baozhen’s inspection tours.

Inside the museum, there are over 500 varieties of mineral specimens and ancient biological fossils dating back hundreds of millions of years.

6. Former Residence of Shen Congwen (沈从文故居)

The Former Residence of Shen Congwen, constructed in 1866 AD by Shen Congwen’s grandfather, stands as a testament to the rich history of the late Qing Dynasty. Shen Congwen, a renowned Chinese literary figure and archaeologist, spent his early years in this building located in Fenghuang Ancient City.

This centennial structure consists of two sections, front and rear, with a central courtyard paved with square stone slabs and a large water tank. The courtyard is surrounded by ancient wooden houses with tile roofs, comprising three rooms in the main building, four rooms in the wing, and three rooms in the front building, totaling over ten rooms.

Although the wooden architecture lacks intricate carvings, its small, exquisite, and antiquated charm is evident, especially in the finely crafted wooden windows with Xiangxi flavor, capturing attention with their exceptional craftsmanship.

Today, the residence showcases Mr. Shen Congwen’s calligraphy, manuscripts, belongings, and portraits. The furniture and tables, aged, worn, and unembellished, include some pieces directly transported from Beijing.

7. Chongde Hall (崇德堂)

Chongde Hall, with a history of over a century, was constructed in 1884 by the wealthy businessman Pei Shoulu from Jiangxi. It showcases precious antiques and various plaques collected from all over the country.

Chongde Hall is a typical southern-style quadrangle with a total area of 622 square meters, divided into two floors. The first floor consists of a stone-carved exhibition hall, two wooden-carved exhibition halls, a central reception room, a dining room, and a rear garden. The second floor comprises the bedrooms of the owner and relatives, which are not open to the public.

The stone-carved exhibition hall displays a Qing stone carving depicting the characters “孝”（”Filial Piety”), “官”( “Official”), and “财” (“Wealth”).

In the first wooden-carved exhibition hall, a gilded plaque with intricate hollow carvings holds high collection value. The second wooden-carved exhibition hall showcases a pair of nine-headed lions carved from a whole piece of golden nanmu wood, incorporating both relief and through-carving techniques, with only two such pairs in the entire country.

The reception room features an exquisite round table carved from camphorwood. The chairs and tea tables on both sides are crafted from mahogany, with Ganoderma patterns carved on the chair backs, symbolizing health and longevity.

Chongde Hall is renowned for its numerous plaques, all reflecting the owner’s filial piety and high moral character.

8. Slate Old Street

This narrow, less-than-5-meter-wide old slate street, spanning over 3000 meters, is Fenghuang’s most bustling commercial street. The winding and twisting alleys create a maze-like network. Exploring the old street is one of the most significant activities when visiting Fenghuang Ancient Town.

The buildings on both sides showcase distinctive features, maintaining the characteristics of western Hunan. There are ancient-style wooden houses and Ming-Qing mixed brick structures. Walking on the street feels like stepping into an ancient era.

Various shops line the street, offering Miao and Tujia ethnic clothing stores, silver jewelry shops, handicraft dealers, internet cafes, and Miao-style snacks. The array of choices is vast, but prices can be inconsistent, with some on the higher side.

9. Yang’s Ancestral Hall (杨家祠堂)

Fenghuang County’s ancestral halls are most notably represented by the Tian and Yang families, with Yang’s Ancestral Hall being the best-preserved in Fenghuang City. Covering an area of 770 square meters, construction of the ancestral hall began in the 16th year of the Qing Dynasty’s Daoguang era. As the Yang family was known for its prestigious status, the scale of the ancestral hall is comparable to that of a typical temple.

Upon entering the main gate, one can see wooden carvings of a bull’s head and bats on the two-tiered doors. The bull’s head is a totem of worship for the people of Western Hunan, symbolizing the dispelling of evil and the blessing of safety. Bats represent the arrival of good fortune and auspiciousness.

The ancestral hall is a wooden structured quadrangle courtyard with two stories. Its layout consists of the main gate, a stage, a pavilion, corridors, and the main hall, forming a rectangular shape. In the rooms on the right side, ancient items such as a bridal sedan chair and a loom are still preserved.

Yang’s Ancestral Hall used to be a public venue for storytelling and theatrical performances in Fenghuang City. Notable figures like Huang Yongyu often watched dramas here during their childhood, while elders in the family enjoyed the performances from the side galleries on the second floor.

Today, the side galleries of the ancestral hall have been transformed into small exhibition halls showcasing Miao ethnic life and craftsmanship. Additionally, to promote and inherit the ancient folk art of Fenghuang, captivating traditional dramas are performed daily on the ancestral hall’s ancient stage.

10. East Gate Tower

The East Gate Tower, built in the 54th year of the Qing Kangxi era (1715), is adjacent to the Tuojiang River and is one of the four major gates of Fenghuang Ancient City.

It features a lower section constructed from purplish-red sandstone and an upper tower made of ancient bricks. The gate is 3.5 meters wide, 4 meters high, and semi-circular in shape, while the tower stands at 11 meters tall. The structure is well-preserved, with minimal signs of damage, and the interior of the tower showcases weapons, fortifications, and layout diagrams worth exploring.

From the vantage point of the tower, looking through the hollowed walls, one can observe the life of the ancient city outside—narrow alleys bustling with tourists and residents, forming a lively scene that captures the essence of the ancient city.

Tip: Fenghuang Ancient City originally had four city gates, but only the East Gate, North Gate, and West Gate towers remain. Among them, the East Gate Tower and North Gate Tower are the most popular.

11. Hong Bridge (虹桥)

Hong Bridge, spanning the Tuojiang River, has a history of over six centuries, dating back to the Ming Dynasty. It stands as one of the prime locations in Fenghuang Ancient Town for sightseeing and photography.

In 1914, a significant flood in the Tuojiang River caused substantial damage to Hong Bridge. Following restoration efforts, the bridge piers were reinforced, the bridge deck repaired, and 12 rooms were added on each side. Over time, Hong Bridge has weathered, with wooden components showing signs of decay, and the rooms on both sides displaying signs of wear and tear.

Subsequent renovations have transformed Hong Bridge into a two-tier structure. The lower level houses shops and general stores, while the upper level serves as a folk culture building. Inside, a collection of paintings and writings spanning the bridge’s history can be found. Standing on the upper floor and looking through the windows, visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of a significant portion of the ancient city.

12. Longevity Palace (万寿宫)

Longevity Palace, constructed in the late Ming to early Qing period, was built by a Jiangxi businessman who settled in Fenghuang Ancient City for trade, aiming to provide accommodation for merchants traveling between the north and south.

Spanning over 4,000 square meters with more than 20 rooms, the palace exhibits grand and intricately designed architecture. While only the imposing gatehouse and main hall remain, their artistic value is well-preserved.

At the top of the nine-level staircase inside the main gate is the main hall, flanked by a pair of finely carved stone lions. The main hall, now an art gallery, displays the folk culture of Fenghuang, featuring numerous artistic paintings, many contributed by the renowned local artist Huang Yuzhen. Art enthusiasts can immerse themselves in the cultural and artistic ambiance within the main hall.

In front of Longevity Palace is the Wanming Pagoda (万名塔), originally built during the Qing Jiaqing period as a furnace pagoda for burning paper. Destroyed over time, it was reconstructed in 1988 through local donations under the initiative of Huang Yongyu.

13. Duocui Tower (夺翠楼)

Duocui Tower, the most magnificent, delicate, and aesthetically pleasing building in Fenghuang Ancient Town, deserves special mention. A few years ago, when local villagers wanted to demolish the stilted building and construct a new one, Huang Yongyu passionately advocated for its preservation. Now, the spectacular stilted building landscape has been retained, making it one of the best-preserved structures in the ancient town.

Craftsmen ingeniously designed the house as a stacked structure, extending from the lowermost layer of the house foundation to the back, forming a seven-level stepped building. Each level of the building is closely connected, creating a chain of interconnected structures.

Duocui Tower is not open to the public, and visitors can only admire and photograph it from the opposite side of the river. There is a steep staircase next to the inn’s entrance that leads up to Duocui Tower.

14. Heavenly King Temple (天王庙)

Heavenly King Temple, also known as Three Kings Temple, was originally built during the Southern Song Dynasty (1183 AD). It is located near the Nanhuashan National Forest Park, and visitors can climb 108 stone steps to reach the temple.

The central hall of the Heavenly King Temple is supported by 24 vermilion columns and enshrines three imposing Heavenly Kings. The main entrance, doors, windows, and eaves feature numerous unique and ancient reliefs. Flanking the main hall are side rooms and palaces, including an ancient stage in front of the main hall. Behind the temple is a shaded area with a scenic mountain view, facing upstream of the Tuojiang River, offering a panoramic view of both the ancient and new city areas.

Legend has it that during the Northern Song Dynasty, there were three brothers named Yang, who were skilled warriors and served in the border regions of Hunan and Hubei, contributing greatly to the defense of the area. As a reward for their achievements, they were enfeoffed by the emperor, and a temple was built to commemorate them. Since then, people have come to the temple to pay homage, seeking blessings and fertility.

15. Miao Ethnic Attire Photoshoot

Many young women come to the ancient city with the main objective of having a photoshoot in Miao ethnic attire. The entire process, including makeup, trying on costumes and headdresses, and the final photo session, is characterized by uncertainty and anticipation, offering a distinct and locally flavored experience. Alongside Miao clothing and Hanfu, there are also influences from Tibetan, Dong, and Hani ethnic groups.

When it comes to renting Miao clothing or other ethnic costumes, it is recommended to avoid the aunties by the river with brochures. Renting from them may restrict photo opportunities to a limited area. Opting for shops with consistent prices is advisable, allowing you to rent for half an hour with the flexibility to move around.

The rental costs for Miao clothing and accessories are separate. Typically, Miao clothing rents for CNY 10 per half an hour, while the cost of headdresses varies based on size, ranging from CNY 10 to 30 for half an hour.

16. Fenghuang Bonfire Party

Regarding the evening entertainment in Fenghuang Ancient City, there are two main forms: one is the stage drama, known as Biancheng Performance, and the other is the Fenghuang Bonfire Party, which has a very affordable ticket price.

The Bonfire Party doesn’t take place directly in Fenghuang Ancient City but rather assembles nearby, and attendees then travel to the event location by bus. Each person carries a torch into the Bonfire Party.

The program during the evening event typically includes elements such as Miao ethnic clothing culture, ethnic songs, Miao wedding ceremonies, calligraphy and painting auctions, torch dances, Miao witchcraft, and the unique local practice of “corpse driving” in western Hunan. Every segment is designed to actively involve the audience.

The Bonfire Party provides an opportunity to experience the charm of Xiangxi’s ethnic culture, the mystery of its local culture, and the warmth of its people.

17. Qiliang Cave (奇梁洞)

Situated in Qiliangqiao Town, just five kilometers north of Fenghuang Ancient City, Qiliang Cave exemplifies a typical karst landscape, with its origins dating back 600 million years.

Spanning a length of more than 6,000 meters, the cave is segmented into five distinct sections: the ancient Battlefield, Gallery, Paradise, the Dragon Palace, and the Yin-yang River. Visitors have the opportunity to take a boat ride and immerse themselves in the scenic beauty along the river.

While Qiliang Cave may not be considered the most superior karst cave, it features a variety of formations inside, including stalactites, stalagmites, and columns, which are quite commonplace. What distinguishes it is the serene underground river characterized by exceptionally clear water. The most remarkable spectacle is the reflection of the cave ceiling stones visible in the pristine water, accentuated by strategically placed lighting, resulting in a truly splendid and awe-inspiring panorama.

🎫Admission ticket: CNY 55 ⏰Opening hours: 08:00-17:30

Miao New Year “赶年场”

Miao New Year stands out as the most cherished celebration among the people of the Miao ethnic group. Typically celebrated in the 10th lunar month, occasionally in November or the first lunar month.

The occasion marks the end of the lunar calendar year and the beginning of a new one. The festival involves various rituals, traditional performances, and communal activities, such as bullfighting and lusheng (a traditional reed-pipe wind instrument) playing. It serves as a time for family reunions, cultural expression, and the expression of good wishes for the upcoming year.

Lusheng Festival “芦笙节”

The Miao ethnic region predominantly observes the Lusheng Festival, which stands out as their primary and significant traditional celebration.

One of the key elements of the Miao Lusheng Festival is the performance of Lusheng, a traditional reed-pipe wind instrument. The Miao people believe that playing the Lusheng can ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune. During the festival, Miao villagers, often dressed in colorful traditional costumes, gather to play Lusheng, dance, and sing.

While the exact timing of the Miao Lusheng Festival may vary from one region to another, it often takes place during important agricultural events, such as the planting or harvesting season.

Sisters’ Meal Festival “姊妹节”

The Miao Sisters’ Meal Festival is a vibrant celebration among the Miao ethnic group in China, particularly highlighting courtship. Held in March or April to welcome spring, Miao women prepare colorful, intricately designed meals to offer potential suitors. The festival features singing, dancing, and the exchange of gifts symbolizing sisterhood. It is regarded as the “oldest Valentine’s Day in the East.”

March 3rd Festival “三月三”

The March 3rd Festival is a customary celebration of song and dance within the Miao community. On this special day, Miao individuals naturally converge at agreed-upon venues to engage in singing, listening to music, dancing, observing performances, and reveling in joyous celebrations.

June 6th Festival “六月六”

The sixth day of the sixth lunar month is the traditional song festival of the Miao ethnic group. On this day, Miao youth from all directions gather at the singing grounds, dressed in splendid attire. They play suona or beat flower drums, but more importantly, they use songs to connect, express emotions, and form romantic bonds. Therefore, the June 6th singing festival is a special occasion for courtship among Miao men and women.

Stir-fried Duck with Duck Blood Curd Cake (血粑鸭)

Stir-fried duck with duck blood curd cake is the most famous specialty dish in Fenghuang Ancient City. It involves making rice cakes with duck blood and glutinous rice, which are then stewed together with duck meat. This dish combines the delicious and rich flavor of duck meat with the fragrant and chewy texture of blood curd cakes. It is available in various restaurants, and those who enjoy the chewy texture of glutinous rice and are not averse to duck blood can give it a try.

• Recommended Restaurant: 醉湘西 , 俊子饭店

Boiled Fish with Pickled Cabbage and Chili (酸菜鱼)

Boiled fish with pickled cabbage and chili is made with locally sourced wild fish. Diners come together around the stove to enjoy the dish, with pickled cabbage, chili, and other ingredients cooked alongside the fish. The dish is prepared and savored in tandem, intensifying in flavor as it cooks longer.

Highly recommended is the restaurant Kaili Sour Soup Fish “凯里酸汤鱼” in the town, known for its broth naturally fermented with rice and enriched with diverse condiments like pungent litse fruit, pickled tomato sauce, and chili. The fish offers a delectable and zesty taste.

• Recommended Restaurant: 大锅大灶, 凯里酸汤鱼

Stone Pot Fish (石锅鱼)

Stone Pot Fish is a dish found in almost every local restaurant, each with its own unique features. It can be ordered spicy or non-spicy. The dish involves slicing grass carp, draining excess oil, and then pan-frying it in a stone pot. Various condiments such as chili and purple perilla are added, along with a broth made from simmering beef bones.

• Recommended Restaurant: 醉湘西

Rice Noodles (米粉)

In Fenghuang, there are numerous rice noodle shops, and among them, Beef Rice Noodles are a must-try in each establishment. These rice noodles, made from rice, come in various thicknesses, providing a chewy and smooth texture. The broth, simmered with beef, is rich and flavorful. Thinly sliced beef is garnished with a sprinkle of green onions or cilantro, and those who enjoy spiciness can add some unique Xiangxi red chopped chili. Additionally, pickled string beans are often used as a condiment.

• Recommended Restaurant: 十里香粉馆 , 老字号粉馆

Lei Cha (擂茶)

Lei Cha, or grinding tea, is typically made using ingredients such as rice, peanuts, sesame, mung beans, salt, and tea leaves. These components are ground into a paste using a mortar and pestle, and hot water is then added to brew the mixture into tea. The taste is somewhat similar to soy milk but thicker in consistency. Drinking a cup of Lei Cha can be quite filling, making it worth a try.

Rice Wine (米酒)

The rice wine in Fenghuang is a type of glutinous rice wine, locally known as “sweet wine.” True to its name, this wine is aromatic and sweet, with a history spanning several centuries. Typically low in alcohol content, ranging from a few to over ten degrees, and occasionally reaching over twenty degrees, the rice wine boasts a mellow flavor that is not overpowering, not throat-burning, and pleasantly sweet. Moreover, it is free from any additives, ensuring the authenticity of the wine.

• Recommended Restaurant: 大使饭店

She Fan (社饭)

After the beginning of spring, locals gather fresh and tender greens from the fields. These greens are mixed with glutinous rice, Chinese tarragon, cured meat, and other ingredients, and then cooked together. The dish is either placed in a small steamer for sale or arranged in a stainless steel tray, served with pickles and chili. It features the sweet aroma of glutinous rice, the smoky flavor of cured meat, and the fresh fragrance of the greens. You can find this dish at small stalls near the Hong Bridge or in the night market.

Rice Tofu (米豆腐)

In the summer, refreshing rice tofu is served with a topping of spicy red chili, chopped green onions, minced garlic, and crispy pickled mustard greens. It is then drizzled with vinegar and soy sauce, creating a delightful cold rice tofu dish. In the winter, you can enjoy a steaming hot plate of rice tofu adorned with various colorful garnishes, providing a feast for the senses.

The commercialization of Fenghuang Ancient Town is well-developed, with many hotels and inns available. While the hotel conditions may be slightly inferior to those in other places of the same category, they possess distinctive features of Western Hunan and offer a memorable accommodation experience.

Accommodations in Fenghuang Ancient Town can be broadly categorized as follows:

Riverside Stilted Buildings:

These inns are primarily concentrated from the North Gate to the East Gate along the river. The advantage is their central location in the core area of Fenghuang Ancient Town, providing excellent views of the Tuo River. The room decor is charming, but they tend to be relatively expensive. During holidays, prices may double or triple, and the rooms can be small. Additionally, being located across from the bar street, it can be noisy until around midnight.

Ancient Town Inn Riverside Rooms:

Some rooms in ancient town inns directly face the river, while others do not. Prices vary, and these inns are situated either upstream or downstream of the Tuo River. Despite not being directly in the town center, it only takes a few minutes to walk to Fenghuang Ancient Town. The ambiance is pleasant, and prices are slightly more affordable compared to riverside stilted buildings.

General Inns Inside the Ancient Town:

These inns are located within Fenghuang Ancient Town but may not be directly facing the river. Despite not being riverside, they are still close to the Tuo River, and a short walk of a few minutes will take you to the riverbank. Conditions vary, with some inns being well-equipped and others more basic.

Sulv Lianhua Hotel

The hotel is situated downstream of the Tuo River. Looking outward from the river-view rooms, guests can enjoy a superb perspective overlooking the river. It takes about ten minutes to walk from the hotel to the ancient town, offering a quieter atmosphere compared to the bustling scenic area. If needed, the hotel can arrange transportation to the ancient town. The hotel’s warm and attentive service has received high praise from many guests, as evidenced by its 4.9 rating on Trip.

The rooms are designed in a serene Chinese style, clean, and spacious. Wooden carvings adorn various spaces, and even the sofa in the living room is of traditional Chinese furniture. A set of Chinese tea utensils is placed on the coffee table, with complimentary tea leaves provided, though coffee is not available. It is said that the owner appreciates a classical ambiance and refrains from participating in Western holidays.

The breakfast is a relatively simple buffet, with a focus on Chinese dishes. While the variety may not be extensive, both the taste and portion sizes are satisfactory.

Phoenix City Boutique Hotel

Phoenix City Boutique Hotel is the only five-star hotel in the ancient town of Fenghuang. Situated next to Tuo River Stepping Stone, the hotel provides a picturesque view of the riverside street from its rooms, making it a prime establishment in the bustling area along the Tuo River.

The overall decoration follows the architectural style of Ming and Qing Dynasty courtyards, featuring a vast and expansive area. With over 60 rooms of various types, the room furnishings showcase a vintage carved pattern style, complemented by celebrity calligraphy and paintings, teapots, and teacups. The fourth and fifth floors boast nearly a hundred square meters of antique-style courtyards.

Phoenix Youran Qingsu Hotel

Phoenix Youran Qingsu Hotel is situated downstream of the Tuo River, and you can reach the ancient town in about 3-4 minutes on foot. If you prefer modern accommodation, I highly recommend this guesthouse. The inn features a simple and comfortable design, equipped with duck down bedding, smart toilets, fully automated electric curtains, solid wood furnishings, and more.

The hostess warmly welcomes guests and particularly enjoys discussing the local life and customs of Fenghuang with them, sharing stories from the original residents of Fenghuang.

Qingxi Chanyuan Hotel

The Qingxi Chanyuan Hotel is located within the ancient town. Originally a private school, and the guesthouse is themed around Zen, tea, and ethnic culture. Many ancient items from western Hunan, century-old doors and windows, and antique collections are used to restore the ancient style. In the lobby, under ancient trees, and on the hillside, there are old stone mill tea tables for enjoying the scenery and sipping tea.

Accommodations are limited in the ancient town, especially during holidays, so it’s essential to make reservations ahead of time.

The ancient town is ideal for exploring on foot.

Fenghuang cuisine is known for its predominant spicy and sour flavors; if spice isn’t your preference, communicate your preferences to the restaurant owner.

Exercise caution when purchasing expensive silver jewelry, particularly from street vendors, as the quality may not be guaranteed.

Fenghuang Ancient Town boasts numerous artistic venues such as bars, cafes, and clothing stores, making it a worthwhile destination.

For the best views of the Tuo River scenery, visit early in the morning, while the NanHua Bridge provides the optimal vantage point for capturing the panoramic night scene in Fenghuang Ancient Town.

When being a guest in someone’s home, ensure separate accommodations for men and women.

Respectful behavior is essential when visiting a Miao family, including refraining from stepping on doorsteps and avoiding the main seating position (facing the ancestral shrine).

Exercise discretion in Miao villages, refraining from close interactions with married women.

Avoid whistling casually in Miao and Tujia villages, as it is believed to attract supernatural entities.

Keep in mind that coins are not accepted within Fenghuang Ancient Town, so it’s advisable to have paper currency before entering the historical area.

🎫Do I need a visa for China?

Yes. Most visitors to China will need a visa to enter the country. The type of visa you need will depend on the purpose and duration of your trip, as well as your nationality. If you are a resident of the US, you must apply for a Chinese visa at the Consular Office in the country. On the other hand, inhabitants of countries like Japan, Canada, and the UK can request a visa through the Chinese Visa Application Service Center .

🤔 Why is it necessary to install a VPN in China?

In China, the government has strict regulations on internet access, leading to the blocking of popular websites and social media platforms such as Facebook, Twitter, Google, and YouTube. To access these sites, a VPN is suggested as a means of bypassing the restrictions. It is important to choose a reputable VPN provider and use caution while doing so. ExpressVPN has been historically deemed the most reliable VPN for this purpose, despite being heavily targeted by China’s censors. Nevertheless, it is still a widely preferred option owing to its ease of installation and user-friendliness.

📲 Is it necessary to have a Chinese SIM card while in China?

Yes. It is crucial to acknowledge that accessing the internet in China may pose limitations due to certain websites being prohibited or filtered. To ensure uninterrupted connectivity while staying in China, purchasing a local SIM card is advisable. For optimum results, acquiring SIM cards from either China Unicom or China Mobile is recommended. While China Mobile has the most comprehensive coverage in China and is a market leader, China Unicom is more compatible with foreign phones, enabling 3G and 4G services. Or you can purchase a SIM card online .

🔮 Should I buy China travel insurance?

Yes. Although China is generally a safe country for travel, it is still possible to encounter accidents or other unexpected occurrences. Therefore, obtaining travel insurance can provide a sense of security and financial protection. In my research, I have found that World Nomads is a reputable travel insurance provider that covers a wide range of activities and is recommended for the average traveler. Nevertheless, I advise you to compare insurance quotes from various providers before making a decision.

🚙 Can you rent a car in China?

Unfeasible . Obtaining a Chinese driver’s license to rent a car and self-drive may seem like an option, but it is not a practical choice for most foreigners. Therefore, many prefer to opt for a driver or public transportation when navigating China, as it proves to be more convenient.

✈️ What’s the best site to purchase flight tickets for China?

I suggest using Trip for affordable flights to China. As a China-based company, they often offer lower prices compared to foreign companies. Additionally, they offer English-speaking phone support in case of any issues.

🏡 What is the best way to book hotels in China?

Not only does Trip offer a wider range of flight options, but it also provides a greater selection of hotels to choose from. Moreover, Agoda is a reliable resource for hotels throughout Asia.

🎒What do I pack for China?

Travel adapter and converter: China uses a different electrical system than many other countries, so it’s important to bring a travel adapter and converter if you plan to use electronic devices such as phones, cameras, and laptops.   Sunscreen: The UV index in China can be high, particularly during the summer months, and prolonged exposure to the sun without protection can cause skin damage and increase the risk of skin cancer. Deodorant: It should be noted that finding deodorant in China may not be a simple task.

📚 Can a guidebook for traveling to China be useful?

Yes . If you’re planning to travel to China for the first time, a travel guidebook can be a valuable resource, and Lonely Planet is one of the most reputable guides available globally. Its comprehensive itineraries and recommendations take into account your personal preferences and can save you both time and money. The insider tips are also extremely helpful in navigating China’s unique cultural landscape like a local.

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5 Days Zhangjiajie and Fenghuang Ancient Town Tour

• Includes & Excludes

Tour Overview

Zhangjiajie is famous for being the setting for the movie Avatar. With its spectacular cluster of stone pillars and bizarre rock formations, Zhangjiajie is said to be the first place most foreigners visit when they come to China. This 5-day Zhangjiajie-Fenghuang tour is the best way to make the most of your time in Zhangjiajie.

You will spend 3 days in Zhangjiajie exploring in depth China's first national forest park, Zhangjiajie National Forest Park, famous for its iconic floating mountains. The views of Yuanjiajie Park and Tianzi Mountain echo the fantastical landscapes of Avatar.

If you are adventurous, you can try walking on the world's tallest and longest transparent glass bridge, ride the world's highest outdoor elevator and explore the thrilling glass skywalk.

Then, we will take the high speed train to Phoenix Ancient Town. The charm of this town lies in its night view and minority culture. Your professional local guide will take you deep into it.

Travel destinations : Zhangjiajie, Fenghuang Suitable for : Nature Enthusiasts, Adventurers Tour type : Group Tour

Highlights of this tour:

• Make your Avatar dream come to life at ' Hallelujah Mountain' in Zhangjiajie National Forest Park .
• Marvel at over 3,000 unique sandstone pillars and peaks .
• Take a 2-hour hiking along Golden Whip Stream , immersing yourself in its tranquil surroundings.
• Ride the world's longest cableway at Mt.Tianmen, challenge yourselves with a walk on the glass skywalk perched on the cliff's edge.
• Enjoy a day extending to Fenghuang (Phoenix) Ancient Town , just 1 hour away from Zhangjiajie by high-speed rail. Enjoy the night view and unique culture of this ancient city.

Day-by-day Itinerary

Welcome to Zhangjiajie, a city famous worldwide for its Avatar's floating mountains! Upon arrival at the airport, you will be greeted by our arranged local driver at the arrival hall and transferred to your carefully selected hotel. The rest of the day is free for you to explore the city.

You can take a self-guided tour to Xibu Street , a characteristic commercial pedestrian street where you will find floating bars, famous Chinese snacks, folk handicrafts and more.

Your guided Zhangjiajie group tour begins today! After breakfast, meet your tour guide at your hotel lobby at 9:00 am. Then, we will head to the Yuanjiajie Park  and take the Bailong Elevator , the world's tallest outdoor lift built onto the side of a huge cliff, to reach the Yuanjiajie mountain platform. Enjoy the beautiful scenery during the ride.

Then, venture from Yuanjiajie's summit with a 1.5-hour soft hike into the Southern Sky Pillar, which is claimed to be the prototype of the "Hallelujah Mountains" in the well-known film Avatar.

After that, have lunch at a local restaurant, KFC, or food vendor at your own expense.

In the afternoon, your guide will take you on a shuttle bus to Mt. Tianzi , a typical quarts sandstone landform that is characterized by piles of dense peaks. Visually, the view is different from other parts of the park: the peaks are much thinner and sharper. Since it has the biggest opening platform, we can definitely experience the most spectacular view of the sandstone peak forest.

After the visit, take the cableway down and return back to the hotel for a good rest.

Meal : Breakfast

After breakfast, you will be led to explore the Zhangjiajie Grand Canyon  and Zhangjiajie Glass Bridge . Walking in the longest and highest glass bridge in the world is truly a challenge for everyone, but also a wonderful experience as you can have a whole view of the Grand Canyon.

Don't be afraid of passing through this bridge since you will enjoy the magnificent scenery such as the flying waterfall, the surging river...

In the afternoon, have an in-depth visit with Golden Whip Stream , one of the most beautiful sites in Zhangjiajie. The stream winds its way through the hills and valleys and got its name because of passing by the Golden Whip Rock. Just listen to the murmurs of the stream; stroll along the valley and stop to watch the fish swimming in the crystal clear water.

Meal : Breakfast + Dinner

After breakfast, visit Tianmen Mountain National Park . Firstly, drive to the cableway base to take the cable car up to the top of Tianmen Mountain. With a length of 7,445 meters, Tianmen Mountain cableway is regarded as the longest cableway in the world. The one-way cable car ride usually takes about 28 minutes. And the half-hour riding is an excellent chance to see the picturesque scenery of the mountain.

Arriving at the mountain top, you will first pay a visit to Tianmen Temple , the Buddhist activity center in the western Hunan Province built in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Next, you'll take a walk on the Skywalk built with transparent glass. For some people, it is really a test of courage!  Then, move to the Tianmen Cave  (Heaven's Gate). It will take about half an hour to walk through the famous cave. Then, take a shuttle bus down to the mountain foot by the 99-bend Road - the scenic round hill road.

After lunch, you will be guided to Junsheng Sandstone Painting Gallery  to see unique painting arts. Then, you will head to the train station to take 1-hour high speed train to Fenghuang Ancient Town.

Upon arrival, your guide will help you check in to your hotel and you will have the rest of the day to explore this charming old town at your own pace. Stroll along the cobblestone streets, admire the well-preserved wooden houses and soak in the unique atmosphere of this riverside town.

Stay overnight in Phoenix Town.

In the morning, we'll take a boat ride on the Tuojiang River , which offers a different perspective of Fenghuang Ancient Town. The boat ride will take you past ancient bridges, traditional houses, and scenic spots along the riverbank.

Next, we'll have a look at Rainbow Bridge, East Gate Tower, and Wanming Pagoda, among other cultural highlights of the town. You'll have some free time to take in the last views and explore any spots you may have missed.

Our Zhangjiajie and Fenghuang tour ends in this ancient town. In the afternoon, you can fly directly from Tongren Phoenix Airport. If you prefer to leave from Zhangjiajie, please buy a ticket after 8 pm. (Contact us to find out how to get to Zhangjiajie)

Thank you for choosing China Xian Tour for your Zhangjiajie tour, and we are always here and hope to see you again for your next trip!

Price Includes

• 4 nights' accommodation in well-selected hotels;
• Meals listed in the itinerary;
• Private air-conditioned vehicle with licensed drivers;
• Excellent local English-speaking tour guides services as mentioned in the itinerary;
• Entrance tickets as mentioned in the itinerary;
• High-speed train tickets from Zhangjiajie to Fenghuang (Second Class);
• 1 bottle of mineral water per person per day;
• China Travel Insurance.

Price Excludes

• Flight/train tickets to Zhangjiajie / off Fenghuang;
• Any optional activities inside the attractions, such as Tianmen Mountain tunnel escalator;
• Any item not mentioned in the itinerary;
• Single Room Supplement;
• All kinds of gratuities for guides, drivers & others.

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Once a frontier town, Fenghuang (凤凰; Fènghuáng) marked the boundary between the Han civilisations of the central plains and the Miao (苗), Tujia (土家) and Dong (侗) minorities of the southwest mountains. Protective walls went up in the Ming dynasty, but despite the implications Fenghuang prospered as a centre of trade and cultural exchange. Its diverse residents built a breathtaking riverside settlement of winding alleys, temples and rickety stilt houses, which these days attract tourists by the bucketload. Do try to stay overnight – the town is bursting with accommodation options, and the sight of an illuminated Fenghuang at night is quite awesome.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Hong Bridge

In the style of the Dong minority’s Wind and Rain bridges, this attractive structure vaults the waters of the Tuo River and is illuminated at night. Like…

Stepping Stones

Stones laid out for crossing the river. Not a great idea to cross them after too many glasses of the local strong stuff.

Yang Family Ancestral Hall

Built in 1836, this building's exterior (by the door) still has some faded slogans from the Cultural Revolution. There are two lovely black-and-white…

Fenghuang City Wall

Restored fragments of the city wall lie along the south bank of the Tuo River. Carvings of fish and mythical beasts adorn the eaves of the North Gate…

Chongde Hall

The town’s wealthiest resident, Pei Shoulu, has his personal collection of antiques on display in his former residence on Shijia Long. The collection of…

Wanshou Temple

Built in 1755, this assembly hall north of Wanming Pagoda served as the Jiangxi guildhall for almost 200 years. It now has dance performances every half…

Southern Great Wall

The Ming dynasty defensive wall, 13km west of town, once stretched to Guizhou province. It's been largely rebuilt, though it does provide nice views of…

Nánhuá Shān

Rising above the old town's eastern flank is this small hill, which affords views over town. A few modern buildings grace the park. Admission is not…

Latest stories from Fenghuang

Jun 14, 2017 • 8 min read

China may have one Great Wall, but it also has many great walls. Military defenses were long an important architectural feature of cities throughout the…

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Fenghuang Ancient Town: The Ultimate Guide

Last Updated on: 3rd December 2019, 08:29 pm

It would be hard to look at pictures of Hunan Province’s Fenghuang Ancient Town and not feel drawn to the place. Its stilt houses, picturesque river area and cobblestone alleyways combine to make it one of China’s most scenic towns. But while domestic tourists flock to Fenghuang in droves, it remains well off the radar for most foreign travelers.

In English, Fenghuang translates to ‘Phoenix.’ Supposedly, the town got its name because one of the nearby mountains resembles the mythical bird . But the Phoenix was also one of the main objects of worship of the Chu people, an ancient kingdom that ruled here thousands of years ago. Be that as it may, Fenghuang Ancient town wasn’t founded until the 16th century.

And it developed quickly. During the early part of the Qing dynasty (1636 – 1912) it became the most prominent town of western Hunan. A plethora of skilled craftsmen moved in and it turned into a major trading center. Many of Fenghang Ancient Town’s landmarks, in fact, date back to this period.

Another element that makes Fenghuang unique is its ethnic makeup. Most local residents, both historically and in the present, belong to either the Miao or Tujia ethnic groups. As such, the local architecture, like Fenghuang’s iconic stilt houses, are unique within China.

And for better or for worse, Fenghuang Ancient Town has received a number of modern additions as well. Every night, for example, the town’s buildings are illuminated, creating a mesmerizing – if not somewhat artificial – spectacle. And to the dismay of many, Fenghuang turns into a loud and raucous party destination after dark, despite appearing so quaint and traditional in photographs.

This is enough to turn some people off from visiting altogether, and understandably so. But if you visit Fenghuang with realistic expectations, there are more than enough positives to outweigh the negative aspects.

In the following Fenghuang Ancient Town guide, we’ll be covering the best things  – whether free or paid – that you can see and do over the course of a few days.

Navigation Guide

Along the river.

• Exploring Fenghuang’s Backstreets

Fenghuang Ancient Town Attractions

• Accommodation & Transport Info

Note: Google is banned in China. To see this map during your trip, you’ll need to use a VPN . Learn more at the end of the article.

Fenghuang's Ticketing System

There seems to be some conflicting information online in regards to how much it costs to enter Fenghuang and see the sites around town. At the time of writing, access to the town is free. Years ago, visitors needed to pay just to access the Ancient Town area itself, as is common at other Ancient Towns  around China. Supposedly, as one local explained to me, tourism declined so much that they had to nix the system.

Now the town itself is free to enter. There is, however, a special ‘through ticket’ you can buy which gives you access to a number of attractions. For ¥168, not only can you see the sites within the Ancient Town itself, but it also includes the Southern Great Wall , roughly 15km west of town.  You can learn more about each attraction down below.  

But is the ticket worth it? Honestly, there’s no single attraction included in the ticket that’s going to blow you away. And Fenghuang’s most impressive scenery, such as its stilt houses and riverside promenade, are completely free.

But if you’re spending more than a day in town, you should consider buying one. It gives you something to do, and by searching for all the sites, you may end up discovering brand new parts of Fenghuang that you wouldn’t have known about otherwise.

Note that some people have reported being asked for proof of a ticket while just walking around town. As that system is no longer in place, anybody asking you to present a ticket at random is surely a scammer and should be ignored.

Note that rather than a physical ticket, you may just be given a special number which you’re supposed to present at each attraction instead. Strangely, there are lots of staff members around town still unfamiliar with this new digital system. If they turn you away at first, keep insisting, and their manager will eventually come over to let you in.

The heart of Fenghuang Ancient Town is its riverside. The town is situated along the Tuo Jiang River, which is where you’ll find its most impressive bridges and iconic stilt houses. While certain areas of the river can get crowded, it’s not too difficult to find quieter areas, especially in the southeastern area. And taking a short boat ride along the river is another one of Fenghuang’s most popular activities. 

Stilt Houses

Fenghuang’s stilt houses, one of the town’s most prominent features, are locally referred to as Diaojiaolou. These types of houses are common, in fact, in both Tujia and Miao towns and villages. 

According to legend, Diaojiaolou houses were first invented as a way to protect families from venomous snakes and scorpions. But as seen in Fenghuang and nearby Furong , the stilts come in handy to prevent flooding as well.

The stilts are also said to have symbolic significance, with the long vertical poles representing the link between heaven and earth. And considering how many Diaojiaolou buildings don’t even use any nails, it’s quite remarkable that they’ve managed to survive intact for centuries. 

The Rainbow Bridge

Though there are a number of bridges along the Tuo Jiang River, the Rainbow Bridge is the Ancient Town area’s largest. And along with the stilt houses, it’s become a symbol of Fenghuang itself. Also known as the Hongqiao Bridge, it was first built during the Ming dynasty and then reconstructed in 1670. it’s easily recognizable from afar for its large brick base consisting of three wide arches.

Another nickname for the bridge is the ‘Covered Bridge.’ Walking across it, you’ll encounter a crowded marketplace featuring dozens of small shops on either side. The bridge is situated in between the central part of the Ancient Town on one side, and bustling Hongqiao Road on the other.

Note that there is supposed to be an attraction on the second floor of the bridge which is normally included in the Ancient Town tickets. While I found the steps to get up there and discovered a spacious room, a worker immediately signaled for me to leave. It was either under renovation during my visit, or it may have been shut down for good.

Wanming Pagoda

Another famous riverside landmark is the Wanming Pagoda, first built during the Qing dynasty. Supposedly, it was constructed on the spot where locals used to burn their paper waste. 

The narrow pagoda cannot be entered. Be sure to come back at night, though, to see it beautifully illuminated (pictures down below).

The Boat Ride

One of the main activities to experience in Fenghuang is a boat ride along the river. Note that there are boatmen all along the Tuo Jiang who will try and get you to haggle for a price. If you bought the Ancient Town ‘through ticket,’ however, a boat ride is included. But you can only board at the wharf near the North Gate.

The ride is relatively short, lasting around ten minutes or so. While you won’t get to see anything that you couldn’t by just walking along the river, it does make for a fun little trip that’s worth doing at least once. 

Various Other Bridges

While the Hongqiao Bridge is the most famous, there are plenty of other bridges to take you back and forth across the river. Some of the larger ones near the southeastern section of the river contain their own lookout pavilions. But aside from Hongqiao, the two most popular bridges with tourists are also the most barebones. 

You’ll find two small parallel bridges close to the North Gate area – one of them consisting of small concrete steps, and the other just a long wooden plank. While not especially difficult to cross, you might want to avoid them when they’re too crowded.  Though I didn’t see anyone fall in the river, it really wouldn’t have shocked me if I had! 

The slight risk is worth it, as the view from the center is one of the most photogenic angles you can get of Fenghuang Ancient Town.

Exploring Fenghuang's Backstreets

One of the best thing about Fenghuang Ancient Town is the fact that it’s pedestrian only. That’s right – no need to constantly look over your shoulder for motorbikes zooming down the sidewalk. And while certain areas can get crowded, most of Fenghuang is a pleasure to traverse on foot. 

In total, the Ancient Town district has dozens of cobblestone streets and alleyways. During your stay, be sure to devote some time to wander aimlessly and explore as much as possible.

Given the layout of the town, however, it can take awhile to figure out where things are. For those staying near the South Gate, your most helpful landmark is probably going to be Phoenix Square (locally known as Congwen Square – pictured above). That leads right into the Dongzheng Shopping Street, where attractions like the Gucheng Museum are located. 

But as mentioned, don’t worry too much about getting lost – that’s half of the fun!

In addition to the hotels and souvenir shops targeted at tourists, you’ll also come across lookout pavilions, small hole-in-the-wall restaurants and ancient temples. Go slowly and take in the numerous details, such as the old tiled roofs or the Phoenix imagery on display all throughout the city.

As touristy as Fenghuang is, a fair amount of local residents, do, in fact, still live here. Heading down some of the quieter backstreets can offer you a little taste of local life. One can’t help but wonder, though, how local residents must feel about the transformation of their town in recent years.

There are a number of ways to escape the crowds. One would be to head over Nanhua Gate in the town’s west. There, you’ll find a hilltop area with a pavilion and an old city wall (possibly a 1980’s remake, though). And you can also get excellent views of the town down below. 

For photographers, the nearby Fenghuang Bridge also provides some clear vantage points of the river.

While most of the main landmarks can be explored in just a day or two, I continually came across more and more streets that I hadn’t walked down before as time went on. It’s also worth going out and exploring Fenghuang in the rain, when some parts of town might become shrouded in mist.

The following attractions are all included in the Fenghuang Ancient Town ‘through ticket’ mentioned at the beginning of the article. The ticket also includes a boat ride and access to a gallery above the Rainbow Bridge. However, as mentioned above, the bridge gallery was inaccessible during my visit. 

East Gate Tower

The East Gate Tower is one of four original towers in Fenghuang Ancient Town. Built in 1715 during the Qing dynasty, the tower’s interior contains a collection of ancient cannons.

But even if you haven’t purchased the through ticket, you can at least walk around outside. On one side, the gate and wall provide excellent views of the Tuo Jiang River. And in the opposite direction, you’ll get a great vantage point of some of the town’s charming alleyways.

Gucheng Museum

Also simply known as the Fenghuang Ancient Town Museum, you can find it on Dongzheng Shopping Street, not too far from Phoenix Square. As one might expect, the museum contains all sorts of precious artifacts and relics from the town’s past. Unfortunately for foreign visitors, though, the total lack of English signage makes it impossible to tell what’s what.

The two-story museum is situated in an ancient house. And even with the lack of information, the structure is very interesting to walk around. Even some of the bedrooms of its former inhabitants have been kept in place.

Yang Ancestral Hall

Ancestral halls have long been important in China as a way to bring certain clans and communities together. Not only have they acted as shrines for ancestor worship, but also as places to hold important community meetings.

The local Yang family is said to be related to the Yang generals of legend. These Song dynasty generals have been popularized in Chinese folklore, and even a part of Zhangjiajie National Forest Park ( Yangjiajie ) was named after them!

Built in 1836, the hall features intricate carvings, a shrine and resting area. But there’s also some graffiti left during Mao’s Cultural Revolution.

Former Home of Shen Congwen

Shen Congwen (1902 – 1988) is widely considered one of modern China’s most influential writers. He grew up in this house that was built by his grandfather in 1866. While a visit here may not be particularly exciting for those unfamiliar with the author’s work, it is, at least, a good opportunity to see a well-preserved house.

In addition to nonfiction works on topics related to traditional Chinese culture, Congwen also wrote ten novels. Much of his fiction took place in Hunan Province and involves the Miao people . 

Congwen himself was of mixed Han, Miao and Tujia heritage. However, as ethnic mixing was harshly frowned upon in those times, his heritage was kept a closely guarded secret.

Chongde Hall

Chongde Hall is the former home of one of Fenghuang’s wealthiest residents, Pei Shoulu. Covering an area of over 600 square meters, the building features an impressive collection of ancient antiques which all once belonged to the businessman. 

The structure itself, meanwhile, is a fine example of a traditional southern Chinese home. 

Wanshou Temple

Situated nearby the Wanming Pagoda, Wanshou Temple, also known as the ‘Longevity Palace,’  dates back to 1755. It was built by a businessman from Jiangxi Province and is now home to the Fenghuang Folk Custom Museum.

During my visit, though, I only came across a temporary modern art exhibition that was taking place at the time, and I did not end up finding the museum. Supposedly, the courtyard also plays host to Tujia and Miao folk dance performances. Try asking your hotel about the schedule if you’re interested in seeing one. 

Xiong Xiling Residence

A former politician who was born in Fenghuang, Xiong Xiling even served as the prime minister of the Republic of China from 1913 – 1914. He resigned, however, due to disagreements with President Yuan Shikai (Sun Yat-Sen’s political rival).

Following his political career, he became involved in philanthropy work, setting up a number of different charities. This attraction sometimes has an English-speaking guide on hand to explain things to foreign visitors.

Just nearby, there happened to be yet another contemporary art exhibit set up, which was rather incongruent with the atmosphere of the old house. This may have only been temporary, however.

Fenghuang at Night

Fenghuang after dark is magical. Every night, the entire town is brightly illuminated, making for a dazzling sight that is well worth checking out during your stay. Even if you did an extensive tour of the town in the daytime, you’ll feel compelled to do it all over again in these completely transformed surroundings. 

Some of the nighttime highlights include the Rainbow Bridge and the Wanming Pagoda. And standing by the rainbow bridge itself gives you a great vantage point of the stilt houses reflecting in the water. 

As almost the entire riverside is illuminated, it might feel a bit too artificial for some. Don’t miss the opportunity, though,  to wander Fenghuang’s backstreets after dark as well. The subdued lighting above the shophouses, mostly provided by lanterns, makes for a cozier and more authentic atmosphere.

From colorful temples to a modern cultural park set in a bamboo forest, there’s even more to do around Fenghuang. And the town also makes for a convenient base for short day trips. Below are some of the main highlights.

Zhunti Temple

Also known as Jiangxin Temple, you’ll likely notice the bright red building along a narrow alleyway by the Rainbow Bridge. The former nunnery is small, but free to enter. It can be a good way to escape the heavy foot traffic of Fenghuang’s busiest area.

Three Sovereigns Temple

Situated up a steep staircase off the southern section of Hongqiao Road is one of Fenghuang’s most interesting temples. And, despite not being far from the town center, few tourists seem to know about it. It doesn’t appear on most maps, while there’s no English signage displaying its name.

It appears, however, to be a temple dedicated to the ‘Three Sovereigns.’ They’re considered the original (and most likely mythical) rulers of China who ruled thousands of years ago. The colorful temple complex even has a little room containing a giant tortoise. It’s well worth checking out if you have some extra time.

Tian Family Ancestral Temple

Situated on the north bank of the river, little information exists about this ancient family temple. Yet it’s free and is just as interesting as any of the Ancient Town ‘through ticket’ attractions. It’s worth a quick stopover during your explorations of the area.

Nanhua Mountain Phoenix Cultural Spot

The Nanhua Mountain Phoenix Cultural Spot is another relatively unknown spot, but arguably one of Fenghuang’s most interesting. It’s actually a recent construction, but it was built in honor of a very ancient tradition: Phoenix worship.

Situated in a tranquil bamboo forest, visitors can learn about the cultural significance of the Phoenix while also getting some spectacular views of the town down below. Note that the spot requires its own admission ticket which is completely separate from the Ancient Town ‘through ticket.’ But is it worth it? Learn more here .

Out of Town

Looking at the photos above, you may have noticed a pagoda high above one of the mountains visible from all over town. It’s called Bajiaolou Palace and is even illuminated at night. I tried my best to find it. But despite asking numerous locals in the area and consulting a map, I ultimately came up short. 

In one area at the base of the mountain there was a massive construction project taking place which I suspect was blocking the normal pathway up. Hopefully, that project is finished by now and you may want to consider giving it a shot.

For those interested in using Fenghuang as a base from which to visit nearby areas, there are a few interesting day trips you can try. One involves seeing Qiliang Cave and the Southern Great Wall in the same day, while the other is a visit to the gorgeous Miao village of Dehang .

Additional Info

As mentioned above, Fenghuang is extremely touristy (while, oddly enough, being virtually unknown to most foreign visitors). I was well aware of this before my visit, having read lots of people’s complaints about how crowded and commercialized everything was. Yet I still wanted to visit anyway to see the views of the river and stilt houses for myself.

I arrived to find things more or less how I expected. Fenghuang is crowded and touristy, sure, but the scenery is also amazing. I think that most of the complaints come from people who were expecting a true “hidden gem.”

Even as touristy as Fenghuang is, I still didn’t feel that the commercialism was overdone to the point of ruining the town, in contrast to somewhere like Hoi An , Vietnam.

If you’re looking for similar vibes but with less people, consider visiting Furong Ancient Town instead. You can get there as a day trip from Zhangjiajie City.

But if you do decide to visit Fenghuang, how long should you stay there? I spent 4 or 5 days there in total, which was more than enough to see everything. In fact, you could see all the main highlights within a single full day. There are some interesting day trips you can make from the town, however, such as the Southern Great Wall and the Miao Village of Dehang. Assuming you have good luck with weather, something like 3.5 days to tour the town and make a couple of day trips would be perfect.

Fenghuang can be reached by bus from most other major cities in Hunan Province. In addition to Changsha and Zhangjiajie City , you can even ride there directly from Wulingyuan (right by Zhangjiajie National Forest Park ). From Wulingyuan, though, there are just a couple of buses leaving each day.

The bus station is some distance away from the Ancient Town and it’s too far of a walk, unless you’ve packed very lightly. To get to the Ancient Town, you’ll need to either take a bus or a taxi. Lookout for buses 1A or 6. As the Ancient Town itself is pedestrian only, you’ll get dropped off somewhere outside of it. If you don’t speak Chinese, be sure to have a VPN with Google Maps or download an offline map application like Maps.me.

Taxis should cost around ¥15 RMB, but you’re unlikely to get this rate from the drivers waiting around at the station.  As soon as you arrive in Fenghuang, be prepared to encounter a group of taxi drivers all too eager to rip you off.   It’s a better idea to head out to the street and flag one down yourself.

There’s plenty of accommodation along the river. However, before my trip, I read about how noisy it would get at night due to all the bars and nightclubs (yes, some government officials had the bright idea to turn Fenghuang into a party town).

I stayed at Hemu House (formerly known as Fenghuang More Inn) near Phoenix Square which I would definitely recommend. It was very quiet at night, while it was an easy walking distance to most of the attractions in the Ancient Town area.

What’s more, is that it was also located nearby the edge of the Ancient Town, making it easy to walk into the modern city for a bite to eat or to do some shopping. It was also relatively nearby the bus stop to take you to the main bus station.

I must say, though, that as I walked along the riverside and saw hotel guests seated out on their balconies looking out over the water, I felt a little jealous. Should I ever visit Fenghuang again in the future, I’d definitely give the riverside a shot.

As you may or may not be aware, a bunch of major web sites are completely blocked in China. This includes Google, YouTube and social media sites like Facebook. Not only can this be a huge annoyance, but not being able to access your Gmail account or use Google Maps could even cause major problems during your trip.

That is, unless, you have a VPN.

VPN stands for Virtual Private Network. Using one allows you to access the internet via servers in a variety of international locations. Therefore, when traveling in China, you can access the internet through a server in Taiwan or Hong Kong (or anywhere, really) and suddenly start using Google and social media apps like normal again.

I’ve tried out a couple of different companies over the course of multiple trips, and have found ExpressVPN to be the most reliable.

The actual use of VPN’s in China isn’t illegal in itself. However, the Chinese government will often make things difficult for certain VPN companies, and some services may stop working for you out of the blue. That’s why it’s important to go for the most reliable VPN, and ExpressVPN is widely regarded as the best to use in China.

1-Day Fenghuang County Itinerary

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• Fenghuang County in 1 day
• 2-Day Fenghuang County Itinerary
• 3-Day Fenghuang County Itinerary
• 4-Day Fenghuang County Itinerary

Table of contents

1-day itinerary, phoenix ancient city.

Huangyongyu Art Studio

Xiong Xiling Former Residence

Ancient city shopping center, the former residence of shen congwen, the old town of phoenix （east gate）, xiangxi phoenix ancient city scenic area, popular road trips from fenghuang county, what's the weather like in fenghuang county.

It depends on when you visit! We've compiled data from NASA on what the weather is like in Fenghuang County for each month of the year: see the links below for more information.

• Weather in Fenghuang County in January
• Weather in Fenghuang County in February
• Weather in Fenghuang County in March
• Weather in Fenghuang County in April
• Weather in Fenghuang County in May
• Weather in Fenghuang County in June
• Weather in Fenghuang County in July
• Weather in Fenghuang County in August
• Weather in Fenghuang County in September
• Weather in Fenghuang County in October
• Weather in Fenghuang County in November
• Weather in Fenghuang County in December

All road trips from Fenghuang County

• Fenghuang County to Hong Kong drive
• Fenghuang County to Hanoi drive
• Fenghuang County to Macau drive
• Fenghuang County to Xi'an drive
• Fenghuang County to Zhangjiajie drive
• Fenghuang County to Guangzhou drive
• Fenghuang County to Chengdu drive
• Fenghuang County to Yangshuo County drive
• Fenghuang County to Halong Bay drive
• Fenghuang County to Guilin drive
• Fenghuang County to Chongqing drive
• Fenghuang County to Xiamen drive
• Fenghuang County to Nanjing drive
• Fenghuang County to Lijiang drive
• Fenghuang County to Ninh Binh drive
• Fenghuang County to Wuhan drive
• Fenghuang County to Mae Rim drive
• Fenghuang County to Sapa drive
• Fenghuang County to Kunming drive
• Fenghuang County to Shenzhen drive
• Fenghuang County to Dali drive
• Fenghuang County to Luoyang drive
• Fenghuang County to Sukhothai drive
• Fenghuang County to Mui Ne drive
• Fenghuang County to Shangri-La County drive
• Fenghuang County to Shillong drive
• Fenghuang County to Damnoen Saduak drive
• Fenghuang County to Tuan Chau Island drive
• Fenghuang County to Doi Suthep drive
• Fenghuang County to Zhuhai drive

Explore nearby places

• Fenghuang County
• Mayang County
• Songtao County
• Zhijiang County
• Chenxi County
• Zhongfang County
• Luxi County
• Huayuan County
• Xinhuang County
• Jiangkou County
• Xiushan County
• Guzhang County
• Baojing County
• Yuanling County
• Xupu County
• Yuping County
• Yinjiang County
• Huitong County
• Yongshun County
• Tianzhu County
• Yanhe County
• Youyang County
• Sinan County
• Dongkou County
• Sansui County
• Danqian County
• Jinping County

All related maps of Fenghuang County

• Map of Fenghuang County
• Map of Mayang County
• Map of Jishou
• Map of Songtao County
• Map of Tongren
• Map of Zhijiang County
• Map of Chenxi County
• Map of Huaihua
• Map of Zhongfang County
• Map of Luxi County
• Map of Huayuan County
• Map of Xinhuang County
• Map of Jiangkou County
• Map of Xiushan County
• Map of Guzhang County
• Map of Baojing County
• Map of Hongjiang
• Map of Yuanling County
• Map of Xupu County
• Map of Yuping County
• Map of Yinjiang County
• Map of Huitong County
• Map of Yongshun County
• Map of Tianzhu County
• Map of Yanhe County
• Map of Youyang County
• Map of Sinan County
• Map of Dongkou County
• Map of Sansui County
• Map of Danqian County
• Map of Jinping County

Fenghuang County throughout the year

• Fenghuang County in January
• Fenghuang County in February
• Fenghuang County in March
• Fenghuang County in April
• Fenghuang County in May
• Fenghuang County in June
• Fenghuang County in July
• Fenghuang County in August
• Fenghuang County in September
• Fenghuang County in October
• Fenghuang County in November
• Fenghuang County in December

Looking for other day-by-day itineraries in Fenghuang County?

Check out our other curated itineraries that are also filled with jam-packed days:

• Itinerary + map in one view
• Live collaboration
• Auto-import hotels and reservations
• Optimize your route
• Offline access on mobile
• See time and distance between all your places

• Deutschland

Fenghuang in China

Fenghuang Tours

Phoenix City

Tujia & Miao Ethnic Minorities

Traditional Wooden Stilt Houses

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• Wulingyuan Scenic Area
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Fenghuang Ancient Town

• Tianmen Mountain
• 1 Day Zhangjiajie Trip
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Fenghuang Ancient Town , aka Phoenix Ancient Town and Feng Huang Gu Cheng in Chinese , is situated on the western boundary of Hunan Province in an area of outstanding natural beauty where mountains, water and blue skies prevail. 'Fenghuang' is Chinese for 'Phoenix', the mythical bird of good omen and longevity that is consumed by fire to be re-born again from the flames. Fenghuang Ancient Town is so called as legend has it that two of these fabulous birds flew over it and found the Fenghuang Town so beautiful that they hovered there, reluctant to leave. Upon arrival visitor will be impressed by its air of mystery, elegance and primitive simplicity. The scenic spots inside the Fenghuang Old Town remain attracting the whole year, but the best time to visit is July to September, when the weather is rather pleasant. This is a world that is dominated by the colour green. The mountain slopes are covered with green foliage, the fields are green and even the Tuo Jiang River reflects the greenery. The bridges over the water and unique houses built on stilts display a harmony that is so often portrayed in traditional Chinese paintings. This is particularly true when mist pervades the scene in the early morning or after rain. It soon becomes apparent that the claim to being one of the two most beautiful towns in the whole of China is more than justified; the other town is Chang Ting in Fujian Province.

Tuo Jiang River

Miao village, buildings in fenghuang ancient town.

Famous People from the Town

Fenghuang Ancient Town was home to the versatile writer Shen Congwen (1902-1988) who contributed greatly to the development of modern Chinese literature. Venerated by the local residents, the one time home and the tomb of this famous writer have become tourist attractions. There are two other notable people from the town worthy of mention. The first is Xiong Xiling the famous philanthropist who was the first premier of the Republic of China (1921-1949) following the fall of the Manchu. The other famous citizen is Huang Yongyu, an outstanding contemporary painter in the traditional Chinese style. His frescoes illustrating Buddhist stories in the Zhunti Nunnery are a major tourist attraction.  

How to get to Fenghuang Ancient Town

From changsha.

From Zhangjiajie

From tongren.

Take a direct bus from Tongren North Bus Station to Fenghuang Ancient Town,  taking CNY 25 with a duration of one hour. The bus departs at 08:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:00 and 16:30.  

From Huaihua

Entrance fee & opening hours.

Top 10 Ancient Cities in China

7-Day Hunan Discovery Tour

Hunan discovery tour.

Hunan — the birthplace of Chairman Mao — may be little known by many people outside of China but it is waiting to be explored and appreciated . This tour includes the highlights of Changsha, amazing Zhangjiajie, and the beautiful Fenghuang Ancient Town.

With direct flights operating between LA and Changsha, it is easier to explore this mysterious and attractive land.

• Step into the birthplace and the former residence of Mao Zedong and discover how he became the greatest man in modern China.
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Suggested Itinerary

After a flight to Changsha, you will meet your guide and private driver at the airport, and then be transferred directly to your hotel.

Discover Changsha snacks in the evening: Changsha is one of the "Top Snacks Cities" in China, so when you are in Changsha make sure you never waste your free time! Local snacks are available everywhere, and you can also go to the Fire Palace (火宫殿) to fulfill your appetite. Stinky bean curd, Maren crispy duck, and Deyuan steamed buns are highly recommended!

Mawangdui contains three ancient tombs belonging to the family of Marquis Dai from the early Western Han Dynasty. The three tombs were all in excellent condition when they were unearthed between 1972 and 1974. The tombs contain more than 3,000 pieces of cultural relics, including silk books, silk paintings, other articles made from silk, bamboo slips used for writing before paper was invented, lacquerware, and more.

Yuelu Academy was one of the four ancient Chinese academies in the Song Dynasty, established in the Northern Song Dynasty (in 976 AD), and has a reputation for being a millennium academy that has witnessed 1,000 years of reform of the education system. It represents part of the history of Chinese education.

The Loving Youth Pavilion was built in 1792 during the Qing Dynasty. The beauty of this spot, with its blossoming peach trees, graceful willows, and flowing streams, has attracted many poets and artists.

High speed train between Zhangjiajie and Changsha is on operation after Dec. 25th 2019. It takes about 3 hours. When arrive in Zhangjiajie West Station, your guide and driver will meet you and transfer to the Yellow Dragon Cavern first.

The Yellow Dragon Cave stretches a total length of 7.5 kilometers with four layers. It's home to an impressive collections of stalactites and stalagmites, illuminated in a variety of colored lights.

Prepare for early starts and time-saving adjustments: To avoid waiting in long queues, your tour guide will suggest the best time to start the day, and might suggest you get up early or alter your attraction schedule. Please kindly understand and cooperate. You may want to take an early night's rest.

Breakfast in Zhangjiajie's hotels is very basic, so your guide will prepare bread, coffee, and fruit for you.

Zhangjiajie National Forest Park is located in Wulingyuan Scenic Area, about 40 minutes' drive from the city. Tianzi Mountain and Yuanjiajie are the most classic and popular sites in Zhangjiajie.

To save your time and energy, we will arrange the cable car (or elevator) trips to take you up and down the mountain. Take the cable car up Tianzi Mountain , and look through the glass walkway to see large areas of spiky sandstone peaks below that are thrusting up from the ground.

Have a simple lunch on the mountain. If you prefer, we can arrange for you to have lunch at a McDonald's on the mountain, and have a break in the air-conditioned building.

The namesake and inspiration for the Hallelujah Mountain in Avatar is located in Yuanjiajie Scenic Area, which you will visit in the afternoon after taking a shuttle bus from Tianzi Mountain.

Evening free time recommendation: The Xibu Ancient Streets are a Tujia minority culture and tourist area about 2 kilometers from the hotels. They contain a local snack street, a folk culture souvenir street, and a bar street. Street barbecues are very popular in Zhangjiajie, so you could try sitting down and enjoying a barbecue and some local beer like a local!

Baofeng Lake is in a basin created by the terrain in the middle of this mountainous area. A walk of about 20 minutes is needed before you reach the lake and take a wooden boat for a 30-minute boat ride. It is a leisurely experience as you float across the clear water, see the hills of various shapes, and enjoy entertainment by the local minority people as they sing their traditional songs.

Tianmen Mountain is regarded as the 'soul' of Zhangjiajie, being its highest mountain. The views include graceful ancient trees, karst hillocks, and long roads that are carved from the sides of the cliff. The cable car takes 30 minutes to get from the city center to the mountain top and is the longest cable car in the world.

Your heart will beat quickly at Tianmen Mountain on the world's longest cable car, the suspended glass walkway that is almost a mile (1,430 meters) above the ground, and the '99 Bends' mountain road.

Tianmen Cave (literally meaning 'Heaven's Gate Hole') is a 30-meter-high hole formed naturally in the mountain like a doorway. It is well-known for being glided through by a world-class stuntman in a wing suit. To reach the hole, you can climb for about half an hour up the 'Stairway to Heaven'.

Zhangjiajie is an amazing place for photography! Using the photographic advice given by your professional tour guide, no matter who you are or what equipment you use, you can create a masterpiece.

It takes about 5 hours to drive from Zhangjiajie to Fenghuang, so it is better to start the day early. Although it's a long journey, you won't be bored on the way! On the way to the Fenghuang Ancient Town, you will visit the Red Stone Forest National Geopark . It is an area comprised of the Red Stone Forest

Karst Landform Scenic Area, Gorge Scenic Area, underground rivers, lakes, waterfalls, and cave scenic spot.

In the Red Stone Forest National Geopark, you will see many strangely-shaped rocks everywhere. They are in different poses and totally natural. In the past, these rocks were called cornerstones, also known as "pagoda stones" or "the Chinese cornerstones".

Different from other ancient towns in China, Fenghuang Ancient Town is a secluded and tranquil town located on the bank of the river and surrounded by mountains. It is a good idea to stroll in this ancient town and visit some interesting shops and homes, and discover some interesting nooks. The ethnic handicrafts are really delicate and special in this region. At night, the town becomes more quiet and peaceful. Sitting in a bar and appreciating the sunset is wonderful.

Evening recommendation: The night view of Fenghuang Ancient Town is beautiful and attracts many photographers. In your free time, it is recommended that you find a café beside the Tuo River, sit down, and enjoy the nighttime scenery!

Your tour guide will pick you up from your hotel, transfer you to Zhangjiajie Hehua Airport, and wave goodbye.

Onward Domestic Flights: Zhangjiajie has direct flights to China's major cities, such as Changsha, Beijing, Shanghai, Xi'an, and Guangzhou. We have good relationships with the air companies, and can get competitive flight prices, so feel free to let us know your next destination for a quote!

Non-Stop Flights Between Los Angeles and Changsha:

Travelers from America will find it easier to get to Zhangjiajie than before as Hainan Airlines began non-stop flights on January 21st, 2016 between Los Angeles and Changsha.

Customizing the Tour — according to your needs

This tour is very flexible. You can alter the itinerary, extend or shorten it to suit your price, interest, and schedule.

You can extend it with an extra day to Fenghuang Ancient Town, where the daytime is picturesque and charming, and the night is lively; or with an extra day to the city of Changsha; or add one more day to discover more at the National Park (the entrance ticket is valid three days). If your time is limited, shortening by one day can also be arranged.

For a multi-city tour, we would recommend combining Zhangjiajie with Guilin (mountain and water scenery), Yangtze River cruise (relaxing cruise on the Yangtze River) or Guizhou (ethnic minority villages). Feel free to tell us your interest and idea.

Guiding Service

Your personal tour guide will accompany you throughout the tour, providing guiding service and local knowledge. He/she is ready and willing to help you solve problems while on the tour.

Accommodation

Star-rated hotels in Zhangjiajie might not be up to the standard of those in big cities like Beijing and Shanghai. Most hotels in Zhangjiajie opened over 10 years ago and have not undergone renovation, so the facilities might not be very new. For example, 4-star hotels in Zhangjiajie might only compare to economy standard hotels in cities like Shanghai. The hotels we use in the tour are carefully selected based on criteria like hotel environment, location, service, and previous customer feedback. Breakfast at a 4-star hotel at Zhangjiajie is very basic, and 5-star hotels breakfast is usually Chinese style mixed with some western choices. We suggest you bring your own toiletries and towel, and if you meet any problems in your hotel, our tour guide will help you arrange with the hotel to make your stay as comfortable as possible.

If you have other hotel choices or wish to book hotels by yourself, feel free to tell us your idea.

Restaurant and cuisine choices are very limited in the national park. We will find the best available, but it is also suggested that you bring some snacks. Local villagers sell water and food like fruits and corn on the mountains, which are good to try while you climb the steps.

As for dinners (not included in the tour), you will have better and more choices while you are down the mountain. Feel free to ask your tour guide for recommendation of restaurants and dishes to try.

There are no vegetarian restaurants available in Zhangjiajie. For vegetarian travelers, please tell us your meal requirements in advance, so that we can make relevant arrangement for you.

How the Weather Affects the Scenery and What to Bring

It is foggy/rainy for over 200 days per year in Zhangjiajie, but the mists make Zhangjiajie mysterious. It might rain or be foggy (obscuring some of the view), but even then the scenery is beautiful.

A pair of comfortable walking shoes with good grip is a must.

Clothing: In summer, bring mosquito repellant, sunglasses, sun block and hat. Prepare an extra light coat for the cool early mornings and evenings. Bring warm clothes for winter, but you will get warmer climbing the mountains, so layers are recommended for flexibility.

Price includes:

• Private air-conditioned business car with big windows and ample space
• English speaking local guide
• Activities, hotels, and meals listed in the itinerary
• 24/7 helpline for while you are traveling

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The Most Charming City in China: Fenghuang

Table of Contents

A City of Lights

Night Market

Life along the Tuojiang River

Fenghuang Locals

Bamboo Boat Rides

Strolling the Flagstone Streets

Stepping Stone Bridge

Fenghuang Fanfare

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33 Comments

wow – what amazing photo’s and this sounds like an amazing stop on your round the world trip!!

thanks so much rabbit….yeah the middle of China was always on my list, and having been there, we are so glad we made it happen. it would have been way easier to skip that part of China, as english is non-existent, but in the end we are so glad we visited!

Our Asia ´to-do´ list keeps getting longer with every post you put out! lol Loving hearing about it all!

Yet another beautiful post, and a reason for me to move my ass and get that damn visa into mainland !! Thanks guys !

Get that visa, Gui! You are going to love it! Fenghuang was actually your father-in-law’s recommendation. Please give him a big thank you for us!

I too like that traditional garb. And – hah – ‘also like that shot of the donkey climbing the steps & spilling the grain 😉

Love how you always pick up on the little details, Ken! With every stair that donkey lose a pound of grain…who knows, perhaps that was secretly his plan to lighten the load

What a cute little town! We have yet to venture deep into mainland China but will certainly be adding Fenghuang when we do. Great photos guys – love the market shots

thanks so much Cam….yeah the center of China is so vast, but such a great place to explore…..while there is little english the region is so unique we loved exploring it!

Hahaha awesomesauce! You even did the peace signs that they love to do 😀

It was totally cheesy but so much fun and yea, you’ve gotta do the peace sign ; )

You two are deep in the heartland! Awesome stuff.

Central China and Western China is where it’s at! Shanghai and Beijing are lovely (posts on those coming shortly) but the spots we went to off the coast felt like such exciting uncharted territory!

Our Asia ‘to-do’ list keeps getting longer with every post you put out! lol Loving hearing about it all!

I love the photo of you two in the traditional Chinese garb. What are the names of the outfits you wore?

When you look past our goofy faces and notice the detail of the clothes, they are actually beautiful, right? It was the traditional dress of the local Tujia people.

Wow, it looks really beautiful! Never heard of Fenghuang before, but its definitely on my travel bucket list now. I totally forgot how stunning the architecture in China can be, and you captured it beautifully in both words and photos. It has been a long time since I was last in China and I didn’t get to explore it quite as fully as you guys have. This post has made me reminisce about my time there though. Would really love to go back there again one day.

Hope you are having a great time! Looks like you are 🙂

Natalie, there is so much to see in China, we are already plotting our return as well! So glad we could give you a nostalgic stroll down memory lane!

Wow! I can’t believe I’ve never heard of this place before! it looks incredible. We’re planning to go to China in the summer, and Fenghuang is so getting included in the itinerary now! It may be touristy, but it looks really magical.

Jessica, that is so cool you guys are going to China….we really hope you have a blast. make sure you do LOTS of train rides (less flights). and yes, definitely hit Fenghuang, and make sure to do some late night karaoke and drinking along the river, its a great party town.

Those food sample keychains look real! As always, your night photography is excellent. Kitschy can be fun if everyone’s having a good time, and it looks like they were–especially with the photos in garb.

yeah, tell me about it. We almost bought that bacon (made of marble), it was so real! thank you guys for the compliments on the night photography…it is especially challenging considering we don’t lug around a tripod with us. and yeah, kitschy can, and usually is, a good bit of fun 🙂 – huge smiles to you guys!

As always, extraordinary photos and stories from parts of the world most of us will never see! Thank you for sharing your adventures!

we actually found out about this great city from our good friends Nancy & Guillaume in Hong Kong….always fun getting tips from locals 🙂

Best in Travel: Charming Fenghuang, Jobs for Travelers and Steps for Pre-International Travel | WildJunket MagazineWildJunket Magazine commented on HoneyTrek Site:

[…] heard of Beijing and Shanghai of China, but have you heard of Fenghuang? See why Fenghuang is so charming – […]

Thanks a million for your China posts and travel inspiration! We’ve just moved to southern China and are compiling a list of musts – you guys seem to have a similar travel sense as we do (though we also tote around two toddlers with us), so you’re a great resource.

oh that is so great to hear Lauren, please tell us when (not IF) you make it to Emei Shan, Wullingyuan and Fenghuang!

I love the costumes and the interesting houses along the water!!!

we have never done those costumes, but we figured now was the time to execute them 🙂 and i think we made the right call. you?

I wish I made it there when I was in China! How charming :). Those outfits really suit you two!!

Yeah this city was one of our favorites. Actually an insider tip when we were in Hong Kong with @facebook-688780304:disqus. Glad you liked those duds 🙂

I loved visiting here and we stayed at the same guest house you did! We had to take a plane, a train, and a bus but it is so incredible and cool to a regular disabled traveler like myself. Just an amazing place.

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Rachel Meets China

8 Day Hunan Itinerary: Zhangjiajie, Furong Ancient Town, & Fenghuang Phoenix Village

The Hunan Province of China is not only home to spicy food – it’s also the location of many unbelievably beautiful villages and scenic mountains!

From the famous Avatar mountains in Zhangjiajie National Forest, to the waterfalls in Furong, to the beautiful river houses and Miao people in Fenghuang, these places will show you a side of China you’ve never seen before.

Because of their close locations to each other in the northern Hunan province, you can easily visit all three places in one trip. I created this 8 day itinerary to help you make the most of your time in Hunan and see the best parts based on my own personal experiences traveling to these places.

Day 1: Travel to Zhangjiajie National Forest Park

Your travel time will depend on what destination you’re coming from. Zhangjiajie is the most convenient city to start off your trip in Hunan. There is an airport in Zhangjiajie you can fly directly to, or you can take a slow speed train or a bus from a local Hunan city (there are no high speed trains to Zhangjiajie).

Alternatively, Changsha is also an excellent starting point. Changsha is the capital city of Hunan and has a bigger airport with more flights in and out. You can fly to Changsha Airport, or take a train there. From Changsha, you can take a train to Zhangjiajie city (6 hours).

Once you’re in Zhangjiajie, you will take a bus, mini van, or taxi to the Wulingyuan Scenic Area (45 minutes). The city itself is separate from the park where the scenic mountains are.

For more information about getting to the park and planning your route inside, check out My Guide for visiting Zhangjiajie.

Day 2: Wulingyuan Scenic Area

I spent one full day in the Wulingyuan Scenic Area. This area is where the famous Hallelujah Mountain is located (the inspiration for the movie Avatar ), so it’s very popular to visit and a must-see if you come to Zhangjiajie.

• Take the shuttle bus from the Park Entrance to the Tianzi Mountain Cableway
• Cable car to the top up Tianzi Mountain
• Hike down to the 10 Mile Gallery and other trails
• Bus over to Yangjiajie Area – hike up to Bus from Yangjiajie to Yuanjianie to see the Hallelujah Mountain
• Bailing Elevator down
• Bus to park entrance

This was a lot to cram into one day,  but I had limited time and wanted to see the main attractions and spend more leisure time hiking the next day.

Day 3: Zhangjiajie National Forest Park Area

The Zhangjiajie National Forest Park is a separate park, but it is still connected to Wulingyuan Scenic Area. It’s recommended to come to this area if you want to avoid the crowds and enjoy a quieter hike in nature! The best way to get there is by walking along the Golden Whip Area.

• Shuttle bus to Jinbian (Golden Whip Stream)
• Stroll along the Golden Whip (1-2 hours)
• Bus to Huangshi Village Cableway
• Take the cable car up the mountain (alternatively you can also hike up the mountain)
• Walk the loop around the National Forest
• Hike down the Huangshi Mountain (1+ hour)
• Walk back along the Golden Whip Stream
• Bus back to the Park Entrance

Day 4: Tianmen Mountain

Tianmen Mountain is a gorgeous mountain in the middle of Zhangjiajie City. You need to take a bus back to the city center to get here. You can buy your tickets for the mountain on the day of your visit, but it’s recommended you buy your ticket ahead of time if you have a time preference for going up the mountain. Your ticket will have a time slot on it, and you can’t go on the cablecar or take the bus up the mountain before the time on your ticket.

• Early morning bus to the Zhangjiajie City Center
• Walk to the Tianmen Mountain Cable Car Entrance
• Cable Car up the top of Tianmen Mountain
• Walk the East Loop around the top
• Visit the Heaven’s Gate
• Bus down the mountain back to the city center

Take a look at more incredible views I saw at the top of Tianmen Mountain

Day 5: Travel to Furong

There are a few buses that leave to Furong everyday, but it’s best to check the bus schedule in Zhangjiajie. There is usually a bus leaving around 8:30 or 9am, and it takes 1 hour and 30 minutes to drive to Furong. The bus will drop you off at the Furong bus station, then you take a little van for 15 minutes to the tourist area (2 RMB).

You can spend the day exploring around the little village and enjoy the magical atmosphere at night! Read my guide for visiting Furong here .

Day 6: Travel to Fenghuang

There is no direct bus from Furong to Fenghuang, so you first need to take a bus from the Furong Bus Station to the Jishou North Bus Station. From there you can get a bus to Fenghuang.

Day 7: Fenghuang Ancient Phoenix Town 

One day is plenty of time to explore Fenghuang – stroll around the river area, try some local snacks, and get your feet nibbled on by little fish. Make sure you stay out to enjoy the night life as the evening is when Fenghuang really comes alive! Bars and restaurants along the river will light up, and you’ll hear live music all around.

See my complete guide to Fenghuang here!

Day 8: Travel Day

Fenghuang doesn’t have an airport or train station, so you’ll need to take a bus to Huaihua or Changsha, and then a high speed train or plane from there.

Here’s a short video of my trip to Fenghuang and Zhangjiajie:

Visiting the Hunan Province

If you’re planning a visit to the Hunan Province in China, Zhangjiajie, Furong, and Fenghuang are three sites you can’t miss! Whether you’re looking for stunning scenery, a break from city-life, or more traditional Chinese culture, you’ll find all that and more here.

Have you been to Zhangjiajie, Furong, or Fenghuang? How was your experience traveling in the Hunan Province?

Read more about the Hunan Province:

• Hiking The Avatar Mountains in Zhangjiajie
• 7 Incredible Views on Tianmen Mountain in Zhangjiajie
• A Complete Guide To Fenghuang: The Ancient Phoenix Village in China
• What Do You Eat In China?

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Wow. What an amazing adventure you had. Great piece and amazing pictures!

Like Liked by 1 person

Thank you! Hunan has to be one of my favorite places in China! 🙂

Very thorough and professional guide. I would soooooo love to visit Tianmen. I want to climb those steps!

Thank you! Yes Tianmen is amazing, and it’ll definitely help you get your step count in! 🙂

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How did you manage your hotels, especially in Zhangjiajie. I’ve heard its really difficult!

I used Ctrip to book my hostels! Just make sure you are booking in the correct area, as Zhangjiajie National Park is actually 45 min outside of Zhangjiajie city center

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Live: Landscape of Fenghuang Lake in East China's Zhejiang Province

Fenghuang Lake, or "Phoenix Lake" in English, is located at the center of Zhendong New District, Tongxiang City, east China's Zhejiang Province. The central lake area is about 59 hectares and the landscape area is about 80 hectares. With its vast surface, swaying reeds and vibrant flowers and plants, the lake is praised as "the sapphire of Tongxiang." 

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China’s tourists are traveling again but they are spending less than before COVID as economic worries keep their wallets shut

Chinese tourists hit the road in greater numbers during a recent five-day Labor Day holiday but kept a tight grip on their wallets, reflecting still-weak sentiment in the world’s second-largest economy .

Travelers made 28.2% more trips but spending only rose 13.5% from the 2019 break, the Ministry of Culture and Tourism said in a  statement  Monday. This translates to a 11.5% drop in spending for each traveler over the holiday ending Sunday, according to banks including Societe Generale, Goldman Sachs Group Inc. and Citigroup Inc.

“Spending per head softened and was again below the pre-pandemic level, owing partly to more tourist flows towards lower-tier cities, and suggesting continued consumption downgrading,” said Goldman economists including Lisheng Wang in a note late Monday, adding that more policy support is needed to sustain the recovery of the services sector. The 2019 holiday was one day shorter.

The figures add to evidence showing Chinese households remain cautious with consumption despite a recent rebound in economic growth driven by a pickup in industrial activity. Less than one in four residents wanted to spend more while an growing share of the urban population wanted to save in the first quarter, according to a  survey  by the People’s Bank of China.

Travelers made a total of 20.7 million trips by rail across the country on May 1, a new high for any single day on record, state broadcaster China Central Television  reported  late Sunday, citing government data.

The holiday season also showed a  shift  in how Chinese travelers spend since the country reopened from pandemic isolation. While big cities like Beijing and Shanghai remained popular, many more opted for cheaper destinations and small towns, online travel agency Trip.com Group said in a Sunday  statement .

“Lower-tier market made a relaxing holiday possible for tourists, and they had better value for money as accommodation and dining costs spiked in tier-1 and tier-2 cities during the break,” Wang Yalei, an analyst with Trip.com, said in the statement.

Social media accounts promoting tourism in  small towns  have blossomed as tourists look for cheaper,  off-the-beaten-path  attractions. China’s expanding high-speed rail network and rising car ownership have also enabled travelers to get to more places within hours.

Bookings for hotels and tourist spots in tier-3 or lower-ranked cities in the country’s northwest and west more than doubled during the break from the same period a year earlier, according to data released by Tongcheng Travel Holdings, another tourism agency.

Inbound and outbound tourism also gained momentum during the holiday as China restored more air routes and  expanded  visa-free arrangements to more countries, the Ministry of Culture and Tourism said. Chinese travelers made 1.9 million trips abroad while 1.8 million visitors entered the country, it said, without providing last year’s numbers.

The US, Australia and the UK were the main long-haul destinations and Hong Kong, Macau, Southeast Asia, Japan and South Korea were the most popular for short-distance trips, according to Trip.com. Middle Eastern countries including Oman, Saudi Arabia and Kuwait saw more than 300% surge in bookings, it said.

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As China's president tours Europe, he's pressed to help end the Russia-Ukraine war

Could China act as a mediator between Russia and Ukraine? NPR's Leila Fadel speaks with Yun Sun, director of the China Program at the Stimson Center.

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The West is freaking out that China is making too much stuff, and it looks like China might be starting to agree

• China has published draft regulations for the battery industry, and it wants to curb overproduction.
• That's at odds with China's official stance that there's no  industrial overproduction in the country.
• The West has been complaining about China's overcapacity, but analysts say it doesn't apply to all sectors.

The West has been complaining that China is overproducing goods and dumping them on the global markets. The comments have incurred the ire of Beijing, which has, as recently as Monday, denied the claims .

But on Wednesday, China's Ministry of Industry and Information Technology issued a proposal that indicates Beijing may agree with some of the West's accusations.

In its proposal, the ministry lays out plans to regulate the battery industry — which, alongside electric vehicles and solar cells, is a key pillar of growth in China's economic transformation .

The proposal covers a range of issues, including minimum technical standards and ecological guidelines for battery production. Notably, however, it also states that lithium-ion manufacturers should avoid building factories that "simply expand production capacity."

In 2023 alone, China's battery production was already big enough to fill global demand, a BloombergNEF analysis found.

The proposal illustrates China's own separate concerns about overcapacity despite the administration of China's leader, Xi Jinping, pushing back on the claims. It has come just as Xi wraps up his first trip to the European Union in five years.

China's overcapacity problem doesn't extend to all sectors

To be sure, the issue of overcapacity in China doesn't extend to all sectors.

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Another Bloomberg analysis found that the problem was mainly in areas in which China already had the upper hand over the West, such as lower-tech goods and building materials after the country's real-estate bust .

The country is also producing a vast oversupply of solar panels and batteries.

Other analyses support Bloomberg's findings that China's factory production isn't flooding global markets in every sector.

"We find emerging, but not overwhelming, macro proof to support the recent geopolitical narrative of excess Chinese goods production that unfairly undercuts global manufacturing competitors on price," Louise Loo, the lead economist at Oxford Economics, wrote in a note at the end of April.

Loo said cyclical oversupply was probably in the near term because of China's economic woes, which had hit domestic demand, but it wasn't a persistent issue over time.

Still, this doesn't sit well with the West, which is trying to ramp up its own onshore battery capacity with government incentives in markets including the US , Canada , Europe , and India .

Chim Lee, a China analyst at the Economist Intelligence Unit, wrote in a note in mid-April that the "super-cycle" in strategic sectors — such as those of EVs and renewable equipment — was politically charged.

"These sectors are highly politicized globally: lower prices can be perceived as the result of government support, but they are also key to accelerating the green transition," Lee wrote.

China's global share of battery manufacturing capacity is expected to fall

Despite the West's consternation, there's an upside for the bloc. China's global share of battery manufacturing is expected to decline in the years ahead, according to a report from the International Energy Agency published on Monday.

China now accounts for more than 80% of battery manufacturing capacity, followed by the US and the EU with about 5% each, according to the IEA.

But China's share of battery manufacturing could fall to about 60% by the end of the decade, while the US and EU could each triple their share to about 15% thanks to the Inflation Reduction Act and policies to support energy transition commitments, according to the IEA.

Watch: The true cost of the lithium mining boom powering electric cars

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Xi Visits Europe, Seeking Strategic Opportunity

The Chinese leader has carefully chosen three countries — France, Serbia and Hungary — that to varying degrees embrace Beijing’s push for a new global order.

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By Roger Cohen and Chris Buckley

Reporting from Paris and Taipei, Taiwan

On his first visit to Europe in five years, the Chinese president, Xi Jinping, appears intent on seizing opportunities to loosen the continent’s bonds with the United States and forge a world freed of American dominance.

The Chinese leader has chosen three countries to visit — France, Serbia and Hungary — that all, to a greater or lesser degree, look askance at America’s postwar ordering of the world, see China as a necessary counterweight and are eager to bolster economic ties.

At a time of tensions with much of Europe — over China’s “no limits” embrace of Russia despite the war in Ukraine, its surveillance state and its apparent espionage activities that led to the recent arrest in Germany of four people — Mr. Xi, who arrived in France on Sunday, wants to demonstrate China’s growing influence on the continent and pursue a pragmatic rapprochement.

For Europe, the visit will test its delicate balancing act between China and the United States and will no doubt be seen in Washington as a none-too-subtle effort by Mr. Xi to divide Western allies. Chinese-French relations “have established a model for the international community of peaceful coexistence and win-win cooperation between countries with different social systems,” Mr. Xi said in a statement issued soon after he arrived in Paris.

He has timed his arrival at his second stop, Serbia, to coincide with the 25th anniversary of the deadly NATO bombing of the Chinese Embassy in Belgrade during the Kosovo war. That mistaken strike on May 7, 1999, for which the White House apologized, killed three Chinese journalists and ignited furious protests around the U.S. Embassy in Beijing.

“For Xi, being in Belgrade is a very economical way to ask if the United States is really serious about international law,” said Janka Oertel, the director of the Asia program at the European Council on Foreign Relations in Berlin, “and to say, how about NATO overreach as a problem for other countries?”

The Chinese government has continued to commemorate the Belgrade bombing, using it as an occasion to denounce what it sees as Western hypocrisy and bullying.

“The United States always views itself as the leader — or hegemon — of the world, so China is a competitor or adversary that is challenging its hegemony,” said Tu Xinquan, the dean of a trade institute at the University of International Business and Economics in Beijing. “The European Union does not have a hegemonic mind-set.”

The official doctrine of the 27-member European Union defines China as “a partner for cooperation, an economic competitor and a systemic rival.” If that seems a mouthful, and a perhaps contradictory one, it is because the continent is torn between how to balance economic opportunity in China with national security risk, cybersecurity risk and economic risk to various industries.

In March, China’s foreign minister, Wang Yi, told reporters that Europe’s formula was unworkable. “It’s like driving to a crossing and finding the red, yellow and green lights all on at the same time,” he said. “How can one drive on?”

Now, Mr. Xi would like to ease the lights toward green.

To that end, Mr. Xi’s first and most important stop will be in France, whose president, Emmanuel Macron, has often made the Gaullist point that Europe “must never be a vassal of the United States,” as he did last month at a speech at the Sorbonne . The French leader insists that the survival of the European Union depends on “strategic autonomy” and developing the military resilience to become a “Europe power.” He rejects the notion of “equidistance” between China and the United States — France is one of America’s oldest allies — but wants to keep his options open.

All of this is music to Mr. Xi’s ears.

“Macron is trying to bring a third way in the current global chaos,” said Philippe Le Corre, a prominent French expert on relations with China. “He is trying to walk a fine line between the two main superpowers.”

Just over a year ago, Mr. Macron was lavishly entertained during a visit to China that ended with a Sino-French declaration of a “global strategic partnership.” The French leader echoed the Chinese lexicon of a “multipolar” world, freed of “blocs” and the “Cold War mentality.”

Now, in anticipation of Mr. Xi’s visit, China has praised France as a great power and expressed hopes that their ties “will always be at the forefront of China’s relations with Western countries,” in the words of Lu Shaye , China’s ambassador to France, in People’s Daily.

Mr. Macron, who recently warned that “our Europe is mortal” and will be saved only if it can become “sovereign,” will host a state dinner for Mr. Xi on Monday in Paris before, in a personal touch, ushering him to a favorite childhood haunt in the Pyrenees.

The chemistry between the two men appears to lie essentially in a shared view that the postwar order is moribund and must be replaced by a new architecture that takes account of shifting power. That Mr. Xi is almost certainly the most repressive and authoritarian leader in recent Chinese history, and that China’s military threats to Taiwan have intensified, has not come between the two leaders.

In the past six months, Mr. Macron has visited both India and Brazil in a push to place France at a fulcrum between the BRICS group of developing countries, which includes China, and Western powers. At a time of growing tension between the “Global South” and Western powers, he sees France as a bridge.

From France, Mr. Xi will move on to the warm embrace of Serbia, where China is the second largest trading partner, and Hungary, where its prime minister, Viktor Orban, has backed enormous Chinese investment and used his country’s position as a European Union member to dilute criticism of China. Both countries bridle at American power.

Beyond these two friends of China, there are, however, serious European differences with Beijing, whose economy was roughly the same size, measured in dollars, as the European Union’s when Mr. Xi last visited in 2019. China’s economy is now some 15 percent bigger.

Last fall, the European Union opened an investigation into whether electric vehicles made in China benefited from unfair subsidies, with a decision expected by this summer. That has caused tensions with Beijing and with Germany, whose presence in the Chinese auto market dwarfs that of other European countries. China accounts for at least half of Volkswagen’s annual profits.

German manufacturers, with plants in China, fear that any imposition of European tariffs could affect its own exports from China, as well as cause tit-for-tat retaliation.

The European Union Commission president, Ursula von der Leyen, will join the talks in Paris with Mr. Xi. Chancellor Olaf Scholz of Germany, whose relations with Mr. Macron have been strained, dined with the French president in Paris this past week. All of this is clearly part of an attempt to forge a united European front.

That, however, is always elusive.

Anger toward Russia in Europe runs highest in frontline states with Russia, like Poland and the Baltic States. They are perhaps the most fiercely attached to the alliance with the United States that Mr. Macron wants to offset by building a sovereign Europe. They are also the most wary of China, which has never condemned Russia’s war in Ukraine.

Mr. Macron, like Mr. Scholz during a visit to China last month, believes that Chinese leverage in bringing an end to the war in Ukraine is critical. Only Beijing, in the French analysis, can bring real pressure to bear on President Vladimir V. Putin of Russia, who will be sworn in for a fifth term during Mr. Xi’s European visit.

The issue, as it was last year during Mr. Macron’s visit to Beijing, is that China has shown little or no inclination to do so. Indeed, Mr. Xi is scheduled to host Mr. Putin in China later this month.

“It’s hard to imagine another discussion on Ukraine,” François Godement, a special adviser and resident senior fellow at the Institut Montaigne in Paris, said of the talks between Mr. Macron and Mr. Xi. “Those dice have been rolled.”

Still, there is little doubt that Mr. Macron will try again to enlist Mr. Xi’s support ahead of a Ukraine peace conference in Switzerland in mid-June.

At a deeper level, Mr. Macron appears certain to try to use Mr. Xi’s visit to advance an agenda that guarantees Europe’s relevance in the coming decades. He is wary of a United States that may re-elect former President Donald J. Trump in November, with unpredictable consequences.

Mr. Wang, the Chinese foreign minister, has said , “As long as China and Europe join hands, bloc confrontation will not occur, the world will not fall apart, and a new Cold War will not take place.”

For all of the fundamental differences in governance between China’s one-party state and Western liberal democracy, the leaders of the three European countries Mr. Xi has chosen to visit appear to embrace that Chinese statement.

Reporting was contributed by Olivia Wang from Hong Kong, Keith Bradsher from Beijing, Christopher F. Schuetze and Melissa Eddy from Berlin and Ségolène Le Stradic from Paris.

An earlier version of a picture caption with this article misstated the year of the NATO bombing of the Chinese Embassy in Belgrade. It was 1999, not 1993.

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Roger Cohen is the Paris Bureau chief for The Times, covering France and beyond. He has reported on wars in Lebanon, Bosnia and Ukraine, and between Israel and Gaza, in more than four decades as a journalist. At The Times, he has been a correspondent, foreign editor and columnist. More about Roger Cohen

Chris Buckley , the chief China correspondent for The Times, reports on China and Taiwan from Taipei, focused on politics, social change and security and military issues. More about Chris Buckley