German tourist strips naked and gatecrashes sacred performance at religious Bali temple
Darja Tuschinski was denied a ticket to the Hindu show in Indonesia but she allegedly pushed past security and removed her clothes in a bizarre protest. The 28-year-old tourist was then arrested
- 14:30, 25 May 2023
- Updated 14:32, 25 May 2023
A German tourist has been arrested after stripping naked and gatecrashing a sacred performance at a temple in Indonesia .
Darja Tuschinski, 28, was denied a ticket to the Hindu show in Bali, before allegedly pushing past security and removing her clothes in a bizarre protest.
The blonde backpacker was then seen striding confidently past the dancers before forcing open a large set of gilded doors. When a local man tried to stop her, she curtsied at him, appearing to mimic the dancers' movements, before walking off the platform to kneel next to a shrine as if in prayer.
Shocked holidaymakers sitting on chairs watched as the tourist continued her naked rampage and walked back on stage.
Furious security staff rushed over and detained Darja for disrupting their show and handed her over to the police in the Ubud district of the popular holiday island.
She now faces up to two years and eight months in prison if she is found to have broken the country's public indecency laws. Bali Police Public Relations Head Stefanus Satake Bayu Setianto said: "The incident of a naked female foreigner occurred on the stage of the Puri Saraswati Hotel in Ubud, Gianyar Regency.
"She lives alone. During her stay at Ubud Bungalow, she was often seen naked while walking around the villa area."
Staff at the Saraswati Ubud Temple apologised to their visitors and performed a ritual to remove the "bad energy" from the area caused by the streaker.
Police took Darja to the station where they performed a drugs and alcohol test but have yet to reveal the results.
They believe that Darja had been struggling for money and became stressed when she was denied a ticket for the once-in-a-lifetime show, in which women in traditional outfits performed a dance honoring their Gods.
Local council chief Wayan Widana said that Darja had been suffering from "depression" because she had run out of money for her extended trip.
Anggiat Napitupulu, Head of the Office of the Ministry of Law and Human Rights for the Bali Region, said Darja was grilled at the police station before being taken to the hospital for physical and psychological check-ups.
He said: "We are currently investigating this case. We are very sorry that this incident occurred."
Officials in Bali have been trying to crack down on badly behaving foreigners amid a surge in the number of cases of backpackers fighting and stripping.
Public indecency is illegal under Article 281 of the country's Criminal Code, which prohibits "acts that violate public decency or morals".
It can be used to prosecute people for engaging in public displays of affection, such as kissing or hugging, or for those wearing revealing clothing or stripping off in public.
The maximum punishment for violating Article 281 of the Criminal Code of Indonesia is two years and eight months in prison.
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German tourist strips naked at Bali temple performance
The woman was removed from the temple and handed over to the police. Photo / Twitter, @_wahego
A 28-year-old German tourist could face jail time after she stripped naked and pranced around the stage during a Hindu dance show in Bali .
When Darja Tuschinski was denied a ticket to the performance at a temple in Ubud on May 22, she reportedly pushed past the security and removed her clothes.
A video shows Tuschinski strutting around the dancers, striking poses and curtsying at a local man who attempted to take her off the stage. She was then filmed kneeling down at a shrine and pretending to pray.
Meanwhile, the dancers on stage continued their performance with an impressive focus.
The video was posted to Twitter by a local under the handle @_wahego along with the translated caption: “Well, why are Caucasians getting crazier.”
The woman’s bizarre naked protest continued as the audience sat in shock. Eventually, security staff were able to get Tuschinski off-stage and she was handed over to police.
A charge of public indecency could see the tourist hit with a prison sentence of up to two years and eight months.
The incident occurred around 8pm.
Bali Police spokesman Stefanus Satake Bayu Setianto told local media outlet Coconuts Bali that this wasn’t the first report of Tuschinski being without clothes.
“She lives alone. During her stay at Ubud Bungalow, she was often seen naked while walking around the villa area,” he said.
Ubud District Chief Wayan Widana claimed Tuschinski suffers from mental health issues , and had become stressed about money during her extended trip in Indonesia, Coconuts Bali reported.
Tickets to the temple show, which involves Balinese women dancing in traditional clothing, cost 100,000 Indonesian rupiah ($11).
Following the dramatic events, visitors received a formal apology from the staff at Saraswati Ubud Temple. A cleansing ritual was then performed to clear away the bad energy left behind by the woman.
Bali has recently struggled with a flood of incidences where tourists misbehave, either by breaking the law or disrespecting sacred sites.
Between January and March 2023, the director general of immigration said 620 foreigners were deported from Indonesia.
A woman was recently arrested after posing naked with a sacred tree in Bali, while another was deported over a viral video of her berating police .
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German Tourist Who Stripped Naked At Bali Temple Sent For Mental Health Treatment
She allegedly got into an argument with the staff members and then forcefully entered the outdoor arena, where she undressed and stood close to the dancers..
Saraswati Hindu temple in Ubud.
A German tourist who was arrested after stripping naked and gatecrashing a sacred performance at a temple in Bali has been sent for mental health treatment by Indonesian officials, as per a report in South China Morning Post . Twenty-eight-year-old Darja Tuschinski was also charged with failing to pay hotel bills while on vacation on the island.
This comes as the country is implementing stricter rules for tourists who are seen misbehaving. The South Asian country has seen an increase in foreign visitors being deported for engaging in actions or making gestures that, according to the authorities, offend the religious sensibilities of Balinese Hindus, as per the outlet.
Police spokesman Stefanus Satake Bayu told SCMP, "The foreigner is depressed because she has no money to finance her stay in Bali."
As per various photos and videos circulating on social media, the woman was seen naked at the Saraswati Hindu temple in Ubud, near the dancers. The 28-year-old attempted to enter the inner sanctuary of the shrine until a security guard barred her from doing so.
As per the outlet, she allegedly got into an argument with the staff members and then forcefully entered the outdoor arena, where she undressed and stood close to the dancers.
The Indonesian police added that Ms Tuschinski also roamed naked around the guest areas of the resort where she was staying. However, they decided not to press charges against her. The temple also organised a ritual to "purify" the sacred space. After declining to board a flight back to Germany, Ms Tuschinski was eventually transported to a mental hospital in Bangli town.
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In December, Indonesia's parliament approved legislation that would outlaw sex outside marriage. According to AFP, sex outside of marriage will be punished with one year in prison while unmarried people living together could face six months in jail. However, tourists visiting Indonesia will not be charged under the new law which will criminalise sex outside marriage, officials said.
Those who "visit or live in Bali would not need to worry with regard to the entry into force of the Indonesian Criminal Code," Bali's Governor Wayan Koster said. Bali's government would ensure "there will be no checking on marital status upon check-in at any tourism accommodation, such as hotels, villas, apartments, guest houses, lodges and spas," he added.
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German female tourist arrested after stripping naked and gatecrashing Bali temple ceremony
- AseanPlus News
Saturday, 27 May 2023
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The tourist was reportedly denied a ticket to the show at the Saraswati Ubud Temple.- The Straits Times/ANN
BALI, May 27 (The Straits Times/ANN): The authorities in Bali, Indonesia, have arrested a German tourist who gatecrashed a sacred temple performance and stripped naked during the ceremony.
On Monday, Darja Tuschinski was reportedly denied a ticket to the show at the Saraswati Ubud Temple, according to several news outlets, including Kompas.com
The 28-year-old is then said to have pushed past security to enter the performance space before removing her clothes.
In a video widely circulated online, the woman is seen walking past a group of dancers on stage before she forcefully opens a large set of gilded doors.
After being confronted by a local man, Ms Tuschinski walks off the stage to kneel next to a shrine as if in prayer.
She eventually returned to the stage as the audience looked on in shock.
Security staff finally detained her for disrupting the performance and handed her over to the police in the Ubud district.She was questioned at the police station before being taken to a hospital for physical and psychological assessments.
The police have also conducted drug and alcohol tests on Ms Tuschinski but have not yet made the results public.
The temple’s staff, meanwhile, apologised to visitors and performed a ritual to remove the “bad energy” from the area as a result of the naked rampage.
The authorities believe Tuschinski had been struggling with her finances and became stressed when she could not get hold of a ticket for the show.
She faces up to two years and eight months in prison if found guilty of breaking the country’s public indecency laws.
Bali has long been a popular resort island with global tourists. But in recent years, many Indonesians have called some of them out for unruly behaviour, and officials are prepared to get tough.
In early April, a Russian tourist was deported after posting a photograph of himself naked from the waist down on Mount Agung.
The mountain is Bali’s highest peak, and the island’s Hindus believe it to be the home of their gods.
In March, the island’s authorities said foreign tourists would not be allowed to use motorcycles to get around Bali, following a string of accidents that led to injuries and even deaths.
The authorities said foreigners would be allowed to use only modes of transport prepared by tourism services that meet certain standards.
In the same month, 47 foreigners were deported for misusing their visas to work. They had violated their stay conditions and misused the residence permit, according to local officials. - The Straits Times/ANN
Tags / Keywords: German , Tourists , Bali , Strip Naked , Temple Festival
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German tourist traipsing naked at bali temple sent for psychiatric treatment.
Videos that have gone viral on social media showed Darja Tuschinski walk around dancers performing at the Saraswati Hindu temple in Ubud.
The 28-year-old also tried to enter the shrine’s inner sanctum before being prevented by a security guard.
The police said she had a squabble with staff members at the event before undressing and interrupting the dancers, Indonesia’s Antara news agency reported.
She was sent to a psychiatric hospital in the town of Bangli after refusing to board a flight home.
The police also said she failed to pay bills at several hotels during her stay on the island.
Famous for its beaches and ancient temples, Bali has become a top tourist destination in recent years thanks to its generous visa policies.
It has been cracking down on foreigners violating public order following a recent string of untoward incidents.
Immigration authorities have deported 123 people in the first five months of this year, most of them for overstaying their visa.
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German tourist arrested after stripping naked, gatecrashing Bali temple ceremony
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The authorities in Bali, Indonesia, have arrested a German tourist who gatecrashed a sacred temple performance and stripped naked during the ceremony.
On Monday, Darja Tuschinski was reportedly denied a ticket to the show at the Saraswati Ubud Temple, according to several news outlets, including Kompas.com
The 28-year-old is then said to have pushed past security to enter the performance space before removing her clothes.
In a video widely circulated online, the woman is seen walking past a group of dancers on stage before she forcefully opens a large set of gilded doors.
After being confronted by a local man, Ms Tuschinski walks off the stage to kneel next to a shrine as if in prayer.
She eventually returned to the stage as the audience looked on in shock.
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Security staff finally detained her for disrupting the performance and handed her over to the police in the Ubud district.
She was questioned at the police station before being taken to a hospital for physical and psychological assessments.
The police have also conducted drug and alcohol tests on Ms Tuschinski but have not yet made the results public.
The temple’s staff, meanwhile, apologised to visitors and performed a ritual to remove the “bad energy” from the area as a result of the naked rampage.
The authorities believe Ms Tuschinski had been struggling with her finances and became stressed when she could not get hold of a ticket for the show.
She faces up to two years and eight months in prison if found guilty of breaking the country’s public indecency laws.
Bali has long been a popular resort island with global tourists. But in recent years, many Indonesians have called some of them out for unruly behaviour, and officials are prepared to get tough.
In early April, a Russian tourist was deported after posting a photograph of himself naked from the waist down on Mount Agung.
The mountain is Bali’s highest peak, and the island’s Hindus believe it to be the home of their gods.
In March, the island’s authorities said foreign tourists would not be allowed to use motorcycles to get around Bali, following a string of accidents that led to injuries and even deaths.
The authorities said foreigners would be allowed to use only modes of transport prepared by tourism services that meet certain standards.
In the same month, 47 foreigners were deported for misusing their visas to work. They had violated their stay conditions and misused the residence permit, according to local officials.
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Nudity, sex, and disrespect: Bali looks to rein in bad tourist behavior
Outrageous tourist antics have prompted the provincial government to enact new laws for several sacred sites.
Regular obscene acts by tourists in Bali have prompted the proposal of new rules for visitors, including a ban on climbing its mountains, which are considered sacred and home to Hindu deities. Bali governor Wayan Koster recently sent local officials more than a dozen rules designed to address years of tourist misbehavior on this Indonesian island.
Under his plan, tourists arriving in Bali would receive a document advising them to dress modestly in temples and to avoid touching holy trees, swearing in public, scaling religious buildings, or interrupting Balinese ceremonies. Perhaps the most impactful proposal, however, would be a ban on mountain hiking. This popular tourist activity is promoted by many Balinese companies, which lead tours of majestic peaks and volcanoes.
The governor’s proposal came soon after a German woman walked naked into a Bali temple and a Russian woman posed nude on a sacred banyan tree. In March, meanwhile, a Russian blogger who bared his backside on a volcano became one of reportedly more than a hundred people deported from Bali this year alone.
( Should some of the world’s endangered places be off limits to tourists? )
Although Bali is one of Asia ’s most touristed locations, brimming with resorts, bars, and activities aimed at foreigners, it’s also an island deeply rooted in ancient religious beliefs. Bali is cloaked in sites considered sacred in its Hindu-majority culture.
“In Hinduism the mountains are where the gods live, in particular the Himalayas are associated with specific deities,” says Adrian Vickers , professor of Southeast Asian Studies at the University of Sydney. “So the high mountains and volcanoes of Bali, Java, and Lombok are regarded as versions of those mountains from India . Added to this is the association [in Bali] of high places with ancestors.”
Many tourists don’t understand how deeply they can impact Bali with their actions, says I Nengah Subadra , associate professor of tourism at Bali’s University of Triatma Mulya. Dressing too casually, talking too loudly, or touching someone too intimately at sacred sites disrupts the island’s delicate spiritual balance.
( These are some of Europe’s most sacred sites .)
Such behavior doesn’t just offend locals, it also unsettles Bali’s Hindu gods, he says. To appease these deities, and restore cosmic harmony, Balinese people perform ancient rituals at these disturbed locations, cleansing them of negative energy.
I Nengah Subadra says frustration over tourist misbehavior has been growing in Bali for more than a decade, citing a 2013 incident in which an Estonian couple had sex in a temple. But he says the planned tourist rules will receive a mixed reception from locals. “Some Balinese people who are very pro-cultural preservation, they will be happy,” he says. “But those who work in tourism may be unhappy because it will impact businesses who do hiking tours to mountains.”
Kadek Krishna Adidharma is one such person. Director of Bali Eco Trekking , which has led mountain tours for 24 years, he says Bali’s governor has no right to ban tourists from visiting its peaks. “Whether a mountain or volcano is open to tourism is a matter for local, not provincial, authority,” he says.
“We have not seen any changes on the ground since the arbitrary rule set by the governor. With 2024 being an election year, some also see this as an attempt by the governor to flex and demonstrate his power to do something about inappropriate behavior by some tourists.”
( Go beyond Everest, with these 9 epic peaks to conquer in a lifetime .)
Although it’s not yet clear when Bali’s proposed tourist rules will be enforced, travelers can show respect when visiting mountains and temples by dressing conservatively and heeding local customs.
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VIDEO: Naked German tourist invades Bali temple during presentation and is arrested
A 28-year-old German tourist was arrested after breaking into a sacred performance at a temple in Bali, Indonesia, completely naked.
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All the Must-Visit Temples in Bali
- August 11, 2022
One of Bali’s most magical and beautiful allures is its incredible collection of ancient Hindu temples, and stunning religious structures.
Dotted across the landscape on towering cliff sides and luscious lake sides, the majority of these temples are still actively used as a place of worship for the local Balinese Hindus.
Along with bright colours, mystical incense, handcrafted offerings and water rituals, each temple in Bali has its own god or goddess, meaning and role.
In this post I’m gonna fill you in on all the must-know information about Bali’s temples, including which ones are a must-see and how to respect the religion when visiting the sacred places.
Why Are There So Many Temples in Bali?
Balinese Hinduism is unlike any other religion in the world as it is a mixture of religions brought to the island over centuries and centuries of visiting priests.
The merge of these ethics and rituals has created a totally unique set of practices that other Hindus would not recognise.
As well as a multitude of ceremonies, which seem to happen weekly, the island also adopted many different levels of ‘temple’ including home shrines where the Hindus will present their daily offerings, or canang , and huge impressive ancient temples which have become tourist attractions.
With over 20,000 temples across the island, it is easy to see that ceremonies and rituals are a big part of Balinese life.
Dressed in sarongs and bright colours, the locals can be seen praying along to traditional Gamelan music, offering fruit to the gods and perhaps even being possessed by spirits.
As religion is such a big part of the day-to-day life, temples are accessible within villages, towns and even home compounds.
What to Do When Visiting Temples in Bali
There are a few different do’s and don’ts to consider when visiting temples in Bali.
It’s not just a beautiful attraction. Many of the temples are still active places of worship where locals will come to give their offerings and pray.
Here are the most basic rules to follow when visiting one of Bali’s famous temples.
- Dress appropriately – there should be no shoulders or knees on show. You can purchase a sarong on arrival to wrap around your waist, but be prepared with a light jacket or t-shirt to throw on when exploring the temple.
- Respect the rules – some temples may have certain rules they wish you to follow such as not walking on the grass, not stepping up the pillars or not climbing. Basically, treat the temples as you would treat your own place of worship.
- Offer a donation – entrance into the temples is often very small or even free, offering a donation will go towards the up-keep and preservation of the temples.
Don’t –
- Enter when menstruating – this isn’t a sexist note or something rude, blood isn’t allowed to to be spilled in a temple. Knowing this ahead of time means you can organise your temple visits accordingly.
- Fly drones without permission – this is a rule for Bali overall. There are so many hidden accommodations and private spaces, no one takes kindly to drones without the necessary permissions. Make sure you have any permits you need before flying over a temple!
- Enter a temple without permission – if you wander past a temple on your daily walk, don’t just walk in. Some temples are private property on family compounds, they aren’t just for show.
- Take pictures of the locals without permission – although stunning, not everyone at a ceremony will appreciate having their photo taken without asking. Check before pointing your lens at the worshippers.
Follow these super simple guidelines and you will be able to immerse in the world of Balinese Hinduism without upsetting any Gods.
Tanah Lot Temple
Famed for its sunset views, Tanah Lot Temple is one of the most visited temples in Bali located 30 minutes from Canggu.
As if floating on the water during high tide, the temple was built in the 16th Century after the travelling Dang Hyang Nirartha – a religious symbol – rested on the rocky island, later telling visiting fishermen that the land felt holy and should be used to worship the sea gods. Venomous sea snakes that live in the rocky caves surrounding the temple are believed to be the guards to ensure no harm comes to the holy space.
Still used till this day as a place of prayer and ceremony, on holy days you will see trails of Balinese Hindus navigating the slippery rocks to reach the temple during a low tide.
For just IDR20,000 you can visit one of the most ancient and well-known temples on the island, and the sunset view doesn’t hurt either.
Add this on to the end of your Bali day tour to have the most beautiful views.
Tirta Empul Temple
Another of Bali’s famous water temples, Tirta Empul Temple is situated on the outskirts of Ubud and is a hotspot for travelers wanting to take part in a purifying ritual (melukat).
Meaning ‘holy spring’ in Balinese, the temple has its own fresh water source.
Tirta Empul features pools of water with spouting waterfalls which each represents a different part of healing.
Stepping into the water, you allow the running water to fall over your head, reciting a mantra and cleansing. Make sure to listen to the instructions of your tour guide before entering the pool as a few of the water spouts are only to be used for death rituals.
Built between the 10th and 14th Centuries to honour Vishnu, it is one of the most important and best temples in Bali.
Besakih Temple
The biggest and holiest of all Bali’s temples, Besakih is considered the ‘mother temple’ of the island, and features 23 separate temples within the complex.
Sitting on the edge of Mount Agung, the temple amazingly survived the horrific 1963 volcano eruption by just meters, only increasing its beauty and magic capabilities in the eyes of local Balinese.
Each of the 23 temples within the complex represents a different God or shrine, and have their own significance and status for certain celebrations and ceremonies.
The most important is Pura Penataran Agung or the Great Temple of State.
First known to be used as a place of worship from 1284, the mystery surrounding the Besakih Temple’s history only adds to its allure.
Uluwatu Temple
I think Uluwatu Temple is my favourite because of its beautiful location.
Perched on the cliff’s edge overlooking expansive ocean views and stunning sunsets, if you are heading out to Uluwatu for the best Bali beaches , stopping by for a sunset show is a must!
One of the six most important places of worship on the island, Uluwatu Temple – or Pura Luhur Uluwatu – is one of my must-visit temples in Bali.
The scenery is incredible, and the structure is believed to date all the way back to the 11th Century! Dedicated to Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa, ‘the Divine one’, Uluwatu Temple is used by the local Balinese Hindus for special ceremonies and celebrations throughout the year.
It’s the sunset Kecak dance that really lures in the tourists. As the sun begins to set, the amphitheatre fills up and a group of men begin a traditional dance with fire and intense beating music. It is an experience you will never forget!
Saraswati Temple
Known as the Ubud Water Palace, Saraswati Temple or Pura Taman Saraswati, this Bali temple is famous for its sprawling lily ponds.
Built in the 1950s, the temple is a place to honour the goddess Saraswati who signifies literature, art and learning.
Visitors aren’t allowed to enter the main temple, but can take pictures of the surrounding beauty and ponds.
In the heart of Ubud, it is a great stop-off point on an Ubud tour!
Spend time to explore the beautiful intricate architecture, skip across the stepping stones in the ponds and leave an offering to the goddess.
The Saraswati Temple also has an evening performance of Balinese dance every evening from 7.30pm.
Taman Ayun Temple
Located in Mengwi, Taman Ayun Temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site built in 1632 with Chinese architectural influence and towering ancient shrines.
One of the island’s most visited temples, the vast gardens and incredible traditional style makes it a hotspot for tourists looking to immerse themselves in Balinese culture.
Translating to Beautiful Garden, Taman Ayun Temple is encompassed by luscious greenery, vast gardens and pools – which were once used as recreational spaces for the royal family.
With stunning terracotta-colour gates, if you are looking for a spot for amazing photography, this is the perfect setting.
Just 30 minutes from the centre of Canggu, it is an easy and great temple in Bali for a quick trip!
Goa Gajah Temple
Unlike any other temples in Bali, Goa Gajah – also known as Elephant Cave – is an enclosed sanctuary of worship and meditation with both Hindu and Buddhist imagery that was believed to be created from the fingernail of the giant Kebo Iwa.
Rediscovered by the Dutch in the 1920s, the temple is a place of mystery and magic. Covered in carvings, stone figurines and statues, the Elephant Cave features bathing pools and fountains that were not found until the 1950s.
Down a staggering staircase, you will definitely want to take your time exploring this incredible Balinese temple.
Pick out threatening faces in the carvings that ward off bad spirits, and see how the environment has slowly eroded over thousands of years.
Goa Gajah shouldn’t be missed!
Ulun Danu Beratan Temple
Sitting on the banks of Lake Beratan, Ulun Danu Beratan Temple is one of the most scenic water temples in Bali surrounded by rolling hills, glistening water and ancient traditional architecture.
Featuring 5 temples within the complex, Ulun Danu Beratan Temple is a dedication to the goddess Dewi Danu, the goddess of water – hence its lakeside location.
With towering platformed roofs, traditional terracotta temple colours, shrines and statues, the lake is a beautiful contrast to the still places of worship.
Filled with minor attractions for tourists such as paddle boats around the lake, children’s jungle gym and restaurant, it is one of the best temples in Bali for learning about the Balinese Hindu culture.
Goa Lawah Temple
Established on the island by one of the holy priests who brought Hinduism to Bali, Goa Lawah Temple is a significant point of worship and is often referred to when speaking of the ‘holiest places in the world’.
Named after the huge population of bats that live in the cave, the Bats Cave Temple is decorated with beautiful shrines, ceramic decorations and the usual colours and offerings.
Located on the coast of Klungkung, a visit to Goa Lawah Temple is an ideal day trip for those who want to explore the lesser visited areas of the island.
Final Thoughts
If you are coming to Bali to really immerse in the culture and learn everything there is to know about the religion and histories of the island, there is no better place to learn than from the temples.
Showing the architectural, religious and cultural developments that have happened over thousands of years, the same dedication to ceremonies and the Gods and Goddesses has not changed.
Always remember to dress appropriately and respect the guidelines set out by the locals.
Exploring the magical and stunning temples of Bali is one of the best activities on the island, and will be sure to leave you with some wonderful memories.
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31 Best Bali Temples & Shrines To Visit (+Map)
Thanks for looking! I put together this Bali temple guide and map after touring many of the Hindu temples in Bali over the course of the last few years.
In contrast to most of Indonesia, which is generally Muslim, Bali is a Hindu-majority island, and most of the temples in Bali are open to tourists who may be interested in sightseeing or taking pictures.
Bali has dozens of old Hindu temples to explore. Many of the best ones are in Ubud and north Bali, although you can also find some interesting Balinese temples in places like Uluwatu and Nusa Penida .
The architecture and history behind some of these is pretty neat, so it’s a good idea to see at least a couple of them on your trip to Bali.
Here’s my complete list of the best temples in Bali, Indonesia!
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What To Wear To Temples In Bali
To enter most of these temples in Bali, you’ll need to wear a sarong, which is a traditional skirt you tie around your waist.
Sarongs can usually be rented on the spot for a small fee like 5,000 Rupiah (less than one US Dollar), and the temple staff in Bali always have plenty of these to hand out.
Or, if you plan to visit a lot of temples in Bali, it may be worthwhile to shell out for a sarong of your own to keep. They’re very cheap to buy!
Bali Temple Entrance Fees
Most of the temples in Bali that are popular to visit and photograph also charge a small entrance fee for tourists.
The entrance fees for Bali temples can be as low as 10,000 Rupiah (less than one US Dollar) for less popular temples, or as high as 75,000 Rupiah (~$5 USD) for very popular temples like Uluwatu or Ulun Danu Bratan .
You can pay the entrance fee in cash, and oftentimes this ticket price also includes a free sarong rental to wear around the temple grounds, as described above.
Bali Temples Map
Here’s a map you can use to find some of the best temples in Bali. You can click the icons to get more info and directions for each point of interest, but keep in mind some of the locations on this map may be approximate.
For more detailed information on how to get to each of the Bali temples on this map, you can check out my individual travel guides for each location.
Best Central Bali / Ubud Temples
1. saraswati temple.
The Saraswati water temple is in central Ubud and it has some of the coolest wall patterns and carvings you’ll see in Bali. The doors are insanely detailed and elaborate. Flowers, dragons, demon figures, and more.
Read More: Saraswati Temple
2. Pura Dalem Temple
This is another temple in central Ubud and it’s known for having some of the most bizarre and intricate statues of any of the Bali temples. Creepy demon goddesses, lions, and other creatures stare back at you here.
3. Ubud Sacred Monkey Forest
The Instagram famous Ubud Monkey Forest is mostly known for the wild monkeys living there, but it also has some old temples and dragon statues in the jungle that are worth checking out. The whole place has an Indiana Jones-y feel to it.
The main temple in the monkey forest is called Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal and it’s thought to have been built around 1350 AD.
Read More: Ubud Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
4. Puri Saren Agung
Also known as the Ubud Royal Palace, this one was built in the 1800s and it’s easily the most well known temple in Ubud, partly because it’s located directly in the town center. This is one of the easiest temples to visit in Bali.
Read More: Ubud Royal Palace
5. Goa Gajah Temple
This is one of the oldest temples I’ve visited in Ubud, and also one of the weirdest. The doorway to the cave is really bizarre and unique, and it feels like you’re walking into the belly of some underground rock monster.
Read More: Goa Gajah Temple
6. Samuan Tiga Temple
This is a big temple from the 10th century between Ubud and Gianyar, just 800 meters from the Goa Gajah temple or a 10 minute drive from central Ubud. This temple is unusually quiet and only a few tourists seem to know about it, but it’s popular for Hindu ceremonies.
7. Goa Garba Ruins
This is an ancient cave temple and 12th century archaeological site in Pejeng village.
Goa Garba was a school and place of study for the Balinese kings and their children. Today, it’s a peaceful hidden spot in the jungle where you can see some ruins and escape the tourist crowds.
Read More: Goa Garba
8. Gunung Kawi Ruins
In my opinion, this is one of the most unique and interesting temples in Bali. Gunung Kawi is actually an underground temple carved into the side of a cliff. It’s an 11th century temple, and the age of everything here is obvious when you look at it.
Read More: Gunung Kawi Temple
9. Gunung Kawi Sebatu Temple
The name and location of this temple is very close to Gunung Kawi, but this one is not nearly as famous. This is a water temple with a nice jungle setting.
10. Tirta Empul Temple
This is one of the most well known temples near Ubud, partly because of the Hindu holy spring where visitors (including tourists) are allowed to bathe and pray, if that’s your thing.
Read More: Tirta Empul Temple
11. Beji Griya Waterfall
Beji Griya is a very unusual temple and waterfall near Ubud that was just opened in 2022, although the carvings near the waterfall give everything the appearance of being much older. It’s a 30 minute drive west of Ubud.
Be warned that this is one of the most expensive temples (or waterfalls) we’ve visited in Bali. They charged us 100k Rupiah per person for the most basic entrance ticket. You can also pay extra to take part in a Balinese Hindu ceremony at the waterfall. We didn’t do that, but we noticed the price was 200k Rupiah per person.
Anyways, the Beji Griya waterfall was nice and we enjoyed the mysterious carvings on the rock walls, which were really well done. I don’t know if we’d come back again, but it was worth at least one visit. It’s definitely one of the most unique Bali temples we’ve seen!
Beji Griya temple & waterfall
12. Sangeh Monkey Forest
In the center of the Sangeh Monkey Forest is a 17th century temple called Pura Bukit Sari, along with several smaller temples scattered throughout the jungle nearby. As an added bonus, you get to hang out with… you guessed it… more monkeys!
Read More: Sangeh Monkey Forest
13. Batuan Temple
This is an ancient 10th century temple located in Batuan village, halfway between Ubud and Sanur. The whole temple grounds are open to tourists, and a lot of the buildings and carvings are different from what you normally see at other Balinese temples.
14. Abiansemal Temple
I know nothing about this temple except that it looks very old and exotic. There’s foliage growing out of the stone roof top. This temple is easy to stop and visit while en route to the Sangeh Monkey Forest.
15. Taman Ayun Temple
I think this is one of the best temples in Bali — very photogenic, but away from the major tourist areas so it doesn’t get too crowded. Taman Ayun is pretty close to Abiansemal and the Sangeh Monkey Forest.
Read More: Taman Ayun Temple
16. Pura Dalem Kahyangan Kedaton
Alas Kedaton is a small jungle that doubles as a wild bat and monkey sanctuary. The fruit bats may look scary, but they’re actually pretty friendly. In the middle of the jungle is a group of temples you can visit too.
Read More: Alas Kedaton Monkey Forest
Best North Bali Temples
17. lake bratan temple.
This is an old temple on a crater lake, and it’s arguably one of the most famous and iconic places in Bali. The 12-story pagoda just screams ‘Asia’, and the mountains in the background aren’t too shabby either.
Read More: Ulun Danu Beratan Temple
18. Lake Tamblingan Temple
This is an epic temple at Lake Tamblingan in north Bali. One of the last remnants of the 10th century Tamblingan civilization, this temple sits inside of an ancient caldera surrounded by rainforests.
Read More: Ulun Danu Tamblingan Temple
Best East Bali Temples
19. pura kehen temple.
This is a 9th century temple in the Bangli province that has some of the most intricate stone carvings I’ve ever seen in Bali, along with an 11-story pagoda and a giant banyan tree.
Pura Kehen is 1 hour from Ubud, or 30 minutes from Kintamani.
Read More: Pura Kehen Temple
20. Pura Segara Temple
This is an old floating temple on the edge of Lake Batur in northeast Bali.
It has some similarities to the famous Lake Baratan temple in Bedugul , but this one has no crowds and no entrance fee!
Read More: Pura Segara Temple
21. Besakih Temple
This is one of the biggest and most significant temples in Bali. Besakih sits on the slopes of the Mount Agung volcano, and some parts of the temple may be thousands of years old.
22. Lempuyang Temple
The ‘gates of heaven’ at Lempuyang have become one of the most popular Instagram spots in Bali, and you may have to queue for hours to take a pic here.
I like how it looks like a picture frame for the sky.
Read More: Lempuyang Temple
Best South Bali Temples
23. tanah lot temple.
This is a mysterious looking 16th century shrine built on a rock overlooking the Indian Ocean. Tanah Lot is one of Bali’s most iconic temples, and it’s located near Canggu and north Kuta.
At high tide, the temple almost looks like it’s floating on the sea! Tanah Lot is a popular sunset spot, and when the tide is low you can even walk out to the rock for a closer look.
Read More: Tanah Lot Temple
Tanah Lot Temple
Tanah Lot Sunset
24. Garuda Wisnu Kencana (GWK)
This is a cultural park in south Bali’s Bukit Peninsula.
It’s used for exhibitions and Balinese cultural events, but most people know it for the giant statues of Hindu figures.
The centerpiece of the park is a statue of the god Vishnu riding the mythical bird Garuda. At 120 meters tall (400 feet), it’s one of the tallest statues in the world.
25. Uluwatu Temple
The Uluwatu temple sits on the edge of a huge cliff in south Bali. The pagoda itself may not be very spectacular, but the setting is definitely scenic and gives you some epic views of the ocean cliffs. Watch out for the monkeys here, they’re notorious for trying to snatch your stuff!
Read More: Uluwatu Temple
26. Gunung Payung Temple
Located in south Bali right next to a beach of the same name, Gunung Payung is a small, quiet temple you can stroll through in just 5 minutes. There’s no entrance fee.
Best Nusa Penida Temples
27. goa giri putri cave temple.
This is another temple located on Nusa Penida island , but it’s inside of a cave! After crawling through a tiny hole in the side of the mountain, the inside opens up to a huge cave about 300 meters long, with high rock ceilings.
Read More: Goa Giri Putri Cave Temple
Goa Giri Putri Temple
Spooky inside
28. Peguyangan Temple
If you like sketchy, remote hikes with steep paths to get your adrenaline going, this one is for you.
Peguyangan is a small waterfall and temple at the bottom of some cliffs, and you reach it by climbing down hundreds of steps on a bright blue stairway.
It’s not for the faint of heart, but the ocean and cliff views here are incredible.
Read More: Peguyangan Waterfall
29. Pura Paluang Temple
Also known as the ‘car temple’, this is a weird one located on the neighboring island of Nusa Penida. The temple is located near some popular tourist sites like Kelingking Beach, so it’s easy to visit if you happen to be exploring the west coast of Penida.
Read More: Paluang Cliff Point
30. Pura Sekar Kuning
Located on Manta Point in Nusa Penida, this temple is made out of bright white stone, just sitting up there on a cliff in the middle of nowhere. It’s a great area to explore.
Read More: Manta Point Overlook
31. Pura Batu Mas Kuning
This is a new temple built on the east coast of Penida in 2018. As usual, it’s open to visitors to look at and take photos, but you’ll need to wear a sarong to go inside.
More Bali Temple Guides
Thanks for looking! I hope you enjoyed this list of some of the best temples in Bali, Indonesia.
Don’t forget to check out my complete Bali Travel Guide with free tips, info, photos, and more!
Bali Private Driver & Motorbike Rental
If you want to explore Bali in the comfort and safety of a private car with an English speaking driver, my top recommendation would be GetYourGuide .
Their price is 650k Rupiah ($45 USD) for a full day of driving and sightseeing in Bali (up to 10 hours) for 1-5 passengers. That's the total price for the whole car + driver + petrol! It's a great deal. They also offer affordable hotel transfers from the airport.
If you'd rather travel by motorbike, they have that too. Their scooter rentals start at 140k Rupiah (~$9) and include a helmet, rain coat, and free delivery in the south Bali area.
We've used GetYourGuide for lots of tours and activities around the world, and they're great! Highly recommended.
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Thank you, your info is really helpful! Where would you recommend to go after 1 week in Ubud, for another 5 days; if I am looking for a combo of culture, beach and walking around area from a nice hotel? It seems like it’s a choice of temples & culture OR the beach?
Hi Kristen! Sanur is a nice peaceful beach area with some cultural aspects, although you’re right that it’s not quite as cultural as Ubud. There are some seasonal Balinese festivals in Sanur that are interesting, and you could visit the night market, etc. You could also check out Nusa Penida island . There are some great temples and beaches there, including the fascinating cave temple ( Goa Giri Putri ) and the water temple at the bottom of a cliff ( Peguyangan ). I hope this helps!
Interesting info about temples. I intend to be in Bali for 7 days in April. Would you be able to advise an itinerary to visit these temples?
Hi Akshay. I wrote a 3-day Ubud itinerary that covers some of these temples, and you could add extra days if you want to see even more of them. Most are within driving distance of Ubud. Regards
The “mysterious carving on the rock” at Beji Griya Waterfall are NOT of ancient origin – they are of recent vintage, when this place was first opened commercially to the public.
That’s correct. Beji Griya was just opened in 2022. The carvings at that one still look mysterious though. 🙂
Precisely what I was looking for, appreciate it for putting up.
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Two German tourists’ arrested for defecating and damaging hotel in Mallorca, Spain
T he two spent a night in jail following a chaotic incident as reported by the local press. The tourists were caught by police and later released on bail. Their arrest highlights a troubling trend of disruptive behaviour among some tourists.
In recent weeks, a number of conservationists have shown their outrage on social media where visitors reenact the mobile game Temple Run at Cambodia’s sacred temple Angkor Wat. Videos of this activity have garnered millions of views, which has left people concerned about the impact on the historic site.
Earlier this year, a tourist from Kazakhstan was caught carving his name into a wall at Pompeii, which is the famous Italian archaeological wonder. The man carved "ALI" into the House of the Ceii. He was apprehended by security and faced backlash for the defacement of the ancient ruins.
Read more: smallest islands in the world for offbeat experiences
Then in 2023, a group of German tourists was involved in a similar incident in Italy. They were caught on CCTV toppling a 150-year-old statue at an Italian bed and breakfast. The footage showed two of the tourists taking photographs with the statue, named "Domina," while another used a stick to push it over, causing it to crash to the ground.
Read more: 5 must-visit UNESCO World Heritage Sites in South India
Another infamous incident saw a Russian tourist being deported from Bali and being banned from re-entering for six months after posting a photo of himself with his trousers down on top of Mount Agung, which is a revered volcano in the region.
Such humiliating incidents only highlight the destructive behaviour of some of the tourists. These behaviours reflect a bad trend of irresponsible and disrespectful actions by people in the name of tourists. It not only damages property but also defames the name of the country from where such ill-behaved tourists come from.
- € EUR
The Best Temples to Visit in Bali
Published on: August 19th, 2024
Last updated: August 19th, 2024
Indonesia includes more than 17,000 different islands, but Bali is the most iconic. Known for its surf spots, beaches and buzzing nightlife, this island is also brimming with beautiful temples – over 10,000 of them, in fact. These sacred spots reflect the spiritual heritage of the ‘Island of the Gods’, where Hinduism is the predominant religion.
The most famous temples in Bali boast centuries of history, intricate architecture and scenic locations. Tanah Lot rises out of the ocean on its rocky perch; Ulun Danu Beratan floats on the surface of a glassy lake; Besakih and Lempuyang promise incredible panoramic views… and that’s just the beginning.
From the island’s splendid shores to its staggering peaks, here are nine of the best Bali temples to visit.
Tanah Lot Temple
Tanah Lot Temple, known locally as Pura Tanah Lot ( pura means ‘temple’ in Balinese) is one of the most visually striking structures on the whole island. Set atop a rocky outcropping off Bali’s western coast, it honours the god of the sea and is said to be protected by venomous sea serpents. The temple is particularly picturesque when bathed in the golden light of dusk.
Need to know: Tanah Lot is located about an hour and half’s drive southwest of Ubud . We can arrange a trip to see it at sunset, followed by a visit to a night market or a traditional royal dinner.
Ulun Danu Beratan Temple
Far from the sun-drenched beaches of Bali, 1,500 metres (nearly 5,000 feet) above sea level in the mountains of Bedugul, you’ll find the majestic temple of Ulun Danu Beratan. It includes several structures on the shores of the volcanic Lake Beratan, but the main shrine is the most picturesque, appearing to magically float on the surface when water levels are high.
Need to know: Ulun Danu Beratan’s main temple is a prime example of a Balinese meru : a tiered tower with several thatched roofs symbolising the sacred Mount Meru.
Lempuyang Temple
One of the most picturesque places on the island, this pura is best known for its spectacular ‘Gate of Heaven.’ The best time to visit Bali ’s famous Lempuyang Temple is first thing in the morning to avoid large crowds – and to see a truly breathtaking sunrise over Mount Agung. Climbing the 1,700+ stairs to the summit is well worth it for the jaw-dropping views of East Bali.
Need to know: Like all Hindu temples in Bali , Lempuyang has a specific dress code for visitors including a traditional sarong and sash; you can either bring your own or borrow them.
Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga is far newer than most of Bali’s temples; it was built in the late 1940s to serve as a retreat for the royal family and later opened to the public. Built atop a sacred spring and known as the ‘water palace’, it includes several pools, ponds, fountains and gardens to explore. Its name literally translates to ‘water of the Ganges’ in reference to the holy river in India.
Need to know: Tirta Gangga can be combined with a visit to the floating palace of Taman Ujung, known for its peaceful grounds and eclectic architecture.
Tirta Empul Temple
Take a dip in the hallowed waters of Tirta Empul, where the pools and fountains are fed by natural springs. This temple, whose name literally means ‘holy spring’, has long been used for ritual cleansing ceremonies. People come from far and wide to participate in the purification ritual of melukat in the pools of Jaba Tengah (the central area).
Need to know: Visitors are welcome to bathe at Tirta Empul, but if you’d rather stay dry, you can also admire the pools, shrines and sculptures and learn about their significance from a renowned local healer.
Besakih Temple
Known as the ‘mother temple’, Besakih holds the title of Bali’s largest and tallest temple. It’s also the most spiritually significant, making it an absolute must-visit for anyone interested in Balinese culture. The six-level complex includes dozens of structures built along the side of Mount Agung, with the main shrine (Pura Penataran Agung) boasting the most impressive meru tower.
Need to know: Besakih Temple is located northeast of Ubud, just over an hour by car. It can easily be combined with Tirta Gangga, which is about another hour’s drive to the east.
Taman Ayun Temple
If you want to enjoy traditional architecture, terraced courtyards and tranquil koi ponds, Taman Ayun Temple is for you. This temple is more easily accessible and relatively small compared to some others on this list, but certainly just as beautiful – in fact, its name means ‘beautiful garden.’ It was built in the 17th century by the King of Mengwi as a tribute to his ancestors.
Need to know: Taman Ayun Temple can be visited in under an hour, making it the perfect stop on a drive between the island’s southern beaches and inland regions like Sidemen .
Saraswati Temple
Located within the town of Ubud , Saraswati Temple is a lovely oasis of lotus ponds and ornate architecture. It’s dedicated to Saraswati, the Hindu goddess of knowledge, learning and wisdom, as well as music and art. The main structure is a striking shade of orange and covered in detailed stone carvings.
Need to know: This is one of the few temples in Bali with free admission. That said, we recommend sticking around for the nightly dance performance, which costs about $6.
Uluwatu Temple
With an irresistible combination of sun, sand and surf, Uluwatu would be worth visiting even without its eponymous temple. But the placement of Pura Luhur Uluwatu, some 70 metres (230 feet) above the waves on a dramatic cliff, makes this site all the more impressive. Visit the temple at sundown for unbeatable views or in the morning before heading down to the beach.
Need to know: This is one of the best places in Bali to see the traditional kecak dance, which involves rhythmic chanting and is illuminated by torchlight.
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In Bali, water temple priests guide a sustainable rice production system
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- Subak is an ancient rice irrigation system developed in line with the Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Karana, which holds that human well-being is maintained by balance between people, nature and the gods.
- Water distribution is controlled by a series of water temples and priests who schedule planting, harvesting and fallow cycles in consultation with farming communities.
- Water is a central tenet of the traditional Balinese religion, Agama Tirtha, but the tourism industry that’s the bedrock of Bali’s economy is putting intense pressure on this resource.
UBUD, Indonesia — Inside the small, open-air stone temple in the center of the Lotudunduh rice fields, a farmer wraps a sarong and sash around his mud-spattered work clothes. Suitably dressed in baju adat, or traditional dress , to approach the gods, he places a small offering of brightly colored flowers in a platter of woven palm leaves on one of the tall carved shrines and sprinkles it with holy water. The temple, the ceremony, the farmer and the rice fields are all part of Bali’s ancient, ritually controlled rice farming system called subak .
Subak, says I Made Chakra Widia, is a very clever system. Chakra is the fourth generation of a rice-farming family in Pengosekan, near the village of Ubud. “[The original farmers] really understood how to farm this land,” he says. “They understood the interaction between soil, water and weather.” Nature was seen as a partner in the growing of food, not a resource to be exploited, he tells Mongabay.
This links with Tri Hita Karana, the central philosophy of Bali’s unique form of Hinduism, which maintains that the spirit realm, the human world and nature must be in balance for human prosperity, health and well-being.
“We believe that nature has power — that everything has a spirit,” says Eka Yuliani, the wife of (former) rice farmers. “Our religion in Bali, it’s not about praying, it’s about giving thanks. When we put offerings in front of a tree, we’re giving thanks for the oxygen, the flowers, the fruit.”
Bali’s original animist religion, known as Agama Tirtha (Religion of Water), placed water as the central tenet of Balinese life. The Hindu Majapahit conquest in the 14 th century overlaid Hindu beliefs, and while Bali’s religion is now known as Hindu Dharma, many Balinese still call it Agama Tirtha. Water is used in every Balinese ritual, small or elaborate, from daily offerings to cleansing and purifying ceremonies to major festivals.
“The beauty of Agama Tirtha is that it is social, cultural and religion together,” Eka says. “Water has energy — powerful energy. It’s purifying, everything in life is about water. Water keeps us alive, grows food so we can eat. Water is holy.”
So when facing growing population pressure in the ninth century, Balinese farmers who needed to expand rice production turned to a water system. They developed irrigated stepped rice terraces to deal with the mountainous terrain and spread this technology across Bali.
The rice terraces, according to Stephen Lansing, were as much a social creation as an agricultural one. Lansing is an ecological anthropologist with the Santa Fe Institute in the U.S., who has researched Balinese social systems for five decades. Farmers organized themselves into local village units, called subak (which eventually became the name for the entire system), to build and support an elaborate irrigation system. They carved tunnels by hand to bring water down from the volcanic lake in the crater of Mount Batur.
To this day, the water continues to pass through an elaborate system of canals, channels, weirs and drainage ditches, irrigating rice terraces on its journey down to the sea.
The rice fields, Lansing says, are “an artificially constructed ecosystem, sustained by continuous human management.” This ecosystem is characterized by nutrient and biochemical cycles, or “pulses,” defined by wet and dry phases. The controlled cycles change soil pH, circulate minerals, stabilize the soil temperature, kill weeds, encourage the growth of nitrogen-fixing algae, and stop nutrient loss into the subsoil, The rich silt flowing down from the volcanic slopes brings necessary minerals, and draft animals contribute manure. Traditionally, farmers rotated their planting between rice, which has a seven-month growing cycle, and other crops. While modern rice farming relies heavily on chemical fertilizers and herbicides, the original system functioned without these synthetic inputs.
Once, says Chakra, the rice fields were “like paradise.” He grew up in them and they taught him about nature and the cycle of life. “I really admire the subak system because I was part of it. When I grew up in this village, there were just rice fields, no roads, no connection to the outside world. Everything was organic, with rich diversity,” he says.
A rice field, full of insects, birds, eels and fish, and its verges, with bushes, trees and food crops, was an open-air supermarket, providing protein, vegetables, fruit, wild greens and rice. Everything, from algae to humans, contributed and took something from the ecosystem.
“I think that’s what heaven is,” Chakra says of this original ecology. “I thought it was the best job in the world to go out in the rice field at night to catch eels, with just an oil lamp, hearing all the sounds of nature, the frogs, and seeing all the fireflies.”
Priests use ritual technology
As subak systems became established across the island of Bali in the 11 th century, conflicts over water increased.
To ensure water was shared equitably, the Balinese set up a system of water temples, or pura tirtha , near lakes, rivers and springs. The mother temple sits on Lake Batur, the primary water source , dedicated to the lake’s deity, Dewi Danu. Participating villages must maintain the water temples and subak system and provide offerings for ceremonies. “Agriculture came first, a few thousand years ago,” Chakra says. “Then religion came. [Agriculture] was woven into the religion … so it would not be forgotten, it would be preserved.”
Water temple priests took over managing the subak system using what Lansing calls “ritual technology.” The priests devised calendars to track growing cycles, organize task groups and synchronize rituals and activities with the growing season and the Balinese lunar calendar. They set planting and harvesting dates in consultation with each subak, alternating fields between flooding and fallow cycles to address rice pests and water stress. Water sharing involves a complex schedule of opening and closing dams to distribute water and ensure there’s a balanced patchwork of wet and dry fields so pests can’t spread.
On an island ruled by a caste system, subak is a truly democratic system, according to Lansing. There are about 1,200 subak groups in Bali, each with 40-500 farmers. Each farmer, regardless of their social status, has an equal voice. Anyone trying to pull rank in a group is fined. In extreme cases, where a village or individual routinely violates subak rules, priests can ban them from taking part in religious ceremonies. This has never been done: the threat is enough.
The water temple priests are said to act as intermediaries between the spiritual realm and farming communities. They conduct ceremonies that give thanks and seek guidance and blessings from the gods for a bountiful rice harvest. Water and rice in Bali are associated with the feminine: Dewi Danu, the goddess of the crater lake, whose waters feed the entire subak system, and Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice and fertility. The Balinese say they believe if the goddesses are angered or neglected, water won’t flow, and rice won’t grow.
When Lansing created a computer model of the subak system with ecologist Jim Kremer from the University of Connecticut, he found that water temple management provided the optimal balance between low pest levels and sufficient water.
The efficiency of this “ritual technology” was revealed when it was briefly lost. During the so-called Green Revolution of the 1970s and ’80s, the Indonesian government forced farmers to switch to a new breed of fast-growing, hybridized rice, which needed chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Local authorities took over water management, encouraging farmers to grow as much as they could, ignoring traditional planting and harvesting schedules. Plagues of rice pests, fights between subak groups, and water shortages followed. In 1988, the national government returned control of the subak to the water temples.
However, almost all rice farmers in Bali continue to use agrochemical inputs and the hybridized white rice, according to Chakra.
The future of the subak
Chakra grows Taunan Jatiluwih heritage red rice organically on his family’s land and trains other farmers to do the same; organic rice can fetch three times as much as white rice. “Farmers love farming,” he says. “They want to farm. But they need to be paid more.”
Today in Bali, farmers have low social status; the daily rate of a rice farmer who uses agrochemicals is the equivalent of $1.50, according to Chakra, which, over the course of a month, is only about a quarter of the monthly minimum wage in Bali. Young people prefer to work in tourism, so most farmers aren’t being replaced as they age. Chakra says most subak members are older than 50. Farmers must also pay land tax, a system started during Dutch colonial rule. They can often make more money by selling their rice fields.
Today, Chakra’s village is engulfed by Ubud’s sprawl, surrounded by villas and hotels, with few rice fields left. He says he plans to move north, away from tourist areas, where subak systems are largely still intact.
Eka’s family fields in the neighboring village of Nyuh Kuning can no longer grow anything; the nearby hotels, built on former rice fields, have blocked the ancient water channels to their land. Now, she says, her family has no choice but to rent out the land to foreigners to build a house. “We will get the land back in 15 years [when the rent contract ends],” Eka says. “But we can never use that land for food again.”
She says she worries that the next generation of Balinese is becoming disconnected from nature, and that subak rites may become empty words for them. But Lansing disagrees, saying the priests and water temples are still as influential as ever in Balinese society.
“Before, the sawah [rice field] was a good way to teach kids about the ecosystem, about birds, water, nature and Tri Hita Karana,” Eka says. Now, in school, her young son learns only that subak is an ancient irrigation system. Eka takes him to a neighboring village with an intact system to show how it works. “I try to explain to him that subak is really something special, but it will be changed if you do not keep it,” she says.
Currently, Bali loses about 1,000 hectares (2,500 acres) of agricultural land per year to development, mostly for tourism. Tourism also uses 65% of Bali’s water, competing with farmers as climate change dries up Bali’s rivers and streams. UNESCO World Heritage status protects 19,500 hectares (48,200 acres) of the subak system but this is only part of a total 154,000 hectares (380,500 acres) under rice cultivation in Bali. The watershed forests on Batur are recognized as being part of subak by being a source of mineral-rich water, according to Lansing.
Lansing and I Wayan Alit Artha Wiguna, head of agricultural extension training in Bali for the Indonesia Ministry of Agriculture, are testing a methane emissions reduction project using low-water, low-fertilizer farming in the subak of Bena village . Globally, 11% of methane emissions come from flooded rice fields. The trials show 85% emissions reduction and 20% higher rice yields in the Bena subak, The farmers say they’re happy with the increased yields and lower input costs, which increases their profits. Nearby farmers say they’re interested. Lansing and Alit want to incorporate carbon credits into the scheme to increase farmer incomes. If they can convince all 80 Bena farmers to use the new method, the unity of the ancient system may persuade all subak in Bali to change, they say.
Banner image: Farmers on rice terraces in Bali. Image by Philipp Al via Flickr ( CC BY 2.0 ).
Bali rice experiment cuts greenhouse gas emissions and increases yields
Lansing, J. S., Kremer, J. N., Suryawan, I. B., Sathiakumar, S., Jacobs, G. S., Chung, N. N., & Artha Wiguna, I. W. (2023). Adaptive irrigation management by Balinese farmers reduces greenhouse gas emissions and increases rice yields. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences , 378 (1889). doi: 10.1098/rstb.2022.0400
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