A Walking Tour of Budapest’s Jewish Quarter
From hushed synagogues to rollicking “ruin bars,” follow history’s path through this fascinating budapest neighborhood..
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The striking Dohány Street Synagogue—the largest temple in Europe—seats 3,000 worshippers.
Photo by Artur Bogacki/Shutterstock
It is difficult to map the exact boundaries of Budapest ’s historic Jewish Quarter since—barring a two-month period toward the end of World War II—no one had previously felt it necessary to determine exactly where the city’s Jewish residents lived. (The Jewish ghetto that was precisely delineated by Nazi authorities included only a portion of a larger neighborhood.) In the early 20th century, roughly a quarter of Budapest’s population was Jewish and lived throughout the city. The Jewish community was to a large degree integrated into daily life and contributed to the city’s reputation as a cosmopolitan metropolis with leading Jewish figures prominent in artistic, financial, and scientific circles.
However, there was—and still is—a recognized Jewish Quarter, which included the city’s major synagogues. It sits at the western end of today’s District 7 and is roughly bounded by Király utca (or Király Street), Erzsébet körút (Erzsébet Boulevard), and Dohány utca (Dohány Street). While the Jewish character of the neighborhood changed, of course, with the Holocaust, there are still today around an estimated 100,000 Jews living in Hungary, with most of them concentrated in Budapest. At the same time, the Jewish Quarter has evolved into one of the liveliest centers of nightlife in the capital, drawing travelers from around Europe and the world to its “ruin pubs” and bars, drinking establishments set up in the stabilized shells of old apartment buildings, storefronts, and lots.
This self-guided walking tour, which touches on both the Jewish Quarter’s historic sites and its lively present, starts in the district’s southwestern corner at its most famous landmark, the Dohány Street Synagogue. (Dress and behave respectfully when entering the temples, which are active houses of worship: No shorts, short skirts, or tank tops.)
As you walk the neighborhood’s streets, keep an eye out for small brass plates embedded in the pavement. These memorials are engraved with the names of individual victims of the Holocaust and mark the site of their former homes.
A.) Dohány Street Synagogue
This glittering 1859 neo-Moorish synagogue with its minaret-like towers and onion domes looks like something from an Arabian Nights fantasy dropped amid the more conventional architecture of its 19th-century neighbors. It’s Europe’s largest synagogue—seating 3,000 worshippers—and the second largest in the world. (If it looks familiar to some Americans it may be because New York City’s Central Synagogue on Lexington Avenue is a near-identical replica.)
The synagogue’s complex of buildings contains much of interest: There’s a small cemetery; a memorial to Raoul Wallenberg (the Swedish diplomat who saved thousands of Jews from the Holocaust); and the Jewish Museum, which covers Jewish culture and history in Hungary and is located on the site of the former home of Theodor Herzl, the father of modern Zionism. You’ll also find the Emmanuel Tree Memorial, a sculpture in the form of a weeping willow, its leaves inscribed with the names of the 400,000 Jews murdered by Nazi and Hungarian forces.
The Carl Lutz Memorial was erected in 1991 where the former entrance to the Budapest ghetto stood.
Photo by Offbeat Budapest
B.) Carl Lutz Memorial Walk west on Rumbach Sebestyén utca and take a right on Dob utca. Down the block, where a gate in the ghetto wall once stood, you’ll find a memorial to Carl Lutz, a Swiss diplomat credited with saving 62,000 Jews. By officially designating 76 buildings around Budapest as annexes of the Swiss delegation, he created “safe houses,” off-limits to Hungarian and Nazi forces.
The interior of the Rumbach Street Synagogue before the start of the 2019 renovation
Photo by Viennaslide/Alamy
C.) Rumbach Street Synagogue Backtrack to Rumbach Sebestyén utca and continue west to the Rumbach Synagogue. Like the Dohány Street Synagogue, it was built in the Moorish-revival style popular in synagogue architecture of the late 19th century, in this case to a design by famed Viennese architect Otto Wagner. Having been neglected for years, the synagogue is undergoing a $10 million renovation scheduled to be completed by November 2019.
What used to be a quiet complex of apartment buildings and small shops is now a popular destination for diners and drinkers.
Photo by Juhasz Norbert
D.) Gozsdu Udvar Take a right on Madách Imre utca and you’ll soon reach the Gozsdu Udvar, featuring a series of interior courtyards, connected by a pedestrian-only path. The complex was built in the early 20th century with storefronts on the ground floor and apartments above. The renovated buildings now house restaurants and bars, and the area is busy from lunch until the early hours of the morning with diners and drinkers.
Try a Hungarian torta or pastry along your circuit.
E.) Fröhlich Kóser Cukrászda When you reach the end of the Gozsdu courtyards, you’ll be back on Dob utca. Take a left and continue to this kosher bakery: One of the traditional cakes or doughnuts paired with a cup of coffee will give you a boost to continue exploring.
F.) Kazinczy Street Synagogue
Around the corner, on Kazinczy utcai, this 1913 building is to this day the principal synagogue of the city’s Orthodox Jewish community. If it’s open, take a look inside at the lavish interiors with its painted blue ceiling, stained glass windows, and beautiful mosaic work. (Kazinczy Street is also one of the liveliest areas of the Jewish Quarter at night. You’ll likely find yourself back here, though farther south on the street, later in the day or evening.)
Related Budapest’s Thermal Baths for Beginners G.) Klauzál Square
Continue a little farther down Dob utca, and you’ll arrive at Klauzál Square, the park that was long the heart of the Jewish Quarter and remains a leafy oasis of the neighborhood today.
Though by no means decrepit, Mazel Tov is one of the city’s most popular ruin bars.
H.) Mazel Tov One block over, on Akácfa utca, Mazel Tov is a ruin bar and restaurant, although decidedly less ruinous than the moniker implies. While ruin bars typically leave the buildings that house them in an unrenovated but stabilized state of decay, Mazel Tov has been more extensively renovated and is slicker than most. In any case, the Mediterranean menu features excellent mezze and grilled meats, and from an after-work crowd until late at night it is often buzzing and packed.
Szimpla Kert was the first ruin bar in Budapest and started the trend of opening bars and pubs in abandoned buildings.
Photo by BFTK Veres Adam
I.) Szimpla Kert Take a right on Wesselényi utca, and return back to Kazinczy utcai. Szimpla Kert was the original ruin bar, or perhaps ruin bars , plural, is more appropriate in this case. The various rooms and courtyards of a series of derelict apartments have been transformed into an unusual series of spaces filled with antiques, works by local artists, and drinkers from around the world. There are now other ruin bars throughout Budapest, many in or near the Jewish Quarter; this may be only the beginning of a longer boozy tour.
If it isn’t time to start drinking yet, you can choose from the nearby Noah’s Patisserie for a sweet treat, while the Street Food Karavan consists of a number of food stalls and trucks set up alongside an open-air area with picnic tables. It’s an ideal place for a budget-friendly meal, especially if you are fortunate enough to be exploring the area on a warm evening.
This bleak and moving memorial marks the spot where Budapest citizens were executed by Nazis and their sympathizers during WWII.
Photo by AGE
Beyond the Jewish Quarter
Any visit to the sites associated with Budapest’s Jewish community should include a stop at the Shoes on the Danube Bank Memorial . From 1944 to 1945, some 3,500 people, most of them Jews, were shot by the fascist Arrow Cross militia on the banks of the Danube. The victims were ordered to remove their shoes before the militia opened fire, and then their bodies fell into the river below. Sixty pairs of shoes, made of iron, are now affixed to the bank at the site of these executions.
The long-delayed House of Fates museum, located a few blocks east of the ghetto in a former train station that once served as the deportation point for thousands of Jews, has been mired in controversy . While the building housing this museum to the Holocaust was completed years ago, the nature of the planned exhibits has raised objections from Hungary’s Jewish community, as well as Yad Vashem, the Holocaust museum in Israel (in part for downplaying the role that Hungarians played in the Holocaust). While it may open this year, it has been repeatedly delayed and may be again.
If you’d like to go a bit deeper, AFAR’s partner Context Travel offers a private walking tour of the Jewish Quarter , led by a historian and scholar.
>>Next: Plan Your Trip With AFAR’s Ultimate Budapest Travel Guide
- Best Things to do in Budapest
Jewish Quarter
Besides being very fascinating, the Budapest Jewish Quarter hides some real treasures. The small shops and cafes that you will see around this area are characterized by real relics from the Jewish culture. More over, you will be charmed by the aristocratic buildings scattered along this area of Pest. The Great Synagogue located in Dohány Street represents the beating heart of this quarter.
Besides the Jewish Museum , the Heroes Temple, the Jewish cemetery, and the memorial park – which all belong to the Synagogue – the Jewish Quarter is characterized by a Memorial to honor Carl Lutz , a diplomatic who saved hundreds of Jewish during World War II. It is worth a mention also the Rumbach Utca Street Synagogue, built in Islamic style in 1872; however, today it is no longer a functioning synagogue.
Kiraly utca is a popular shopping street, setting the northern border of the Jewish District. Around the area there are some great restaurants, pubs, and coffee shops. On Vasvari Pal Street, hidden in a courtyard surrounded by residential buildings there is a synagogue built in Neo-Gothic and Neo-Renaissance Style. The structure, which was renovated in 1990, it is now used as a school for Judaic studies.
The Klauzal Square C overed Market is one of the main Budapest’s covered markets.
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Budapest Jewish Quarter • Free Walking Tour with a Historian
Overview of the tour in Budapest
From the 18th century until the mid-20th century, the Pest side could boost with one of the most flourishing Jewish communities in the region. We will trace what remains of it and have a glimpse of its history through the monuments of the district, also commemorating the tragedy that almost put an end to it. We will see as well how the community lives nowadays. Length: approximately 2-3 hours.
This activity includes:
- Kazinczy Street Synagogue
- Rumbach Street Synagogue
- Jewish history
- Hungarian history
- Jewish District
- Jewish Quarter
Meeting point
Budapest, Madách Imre Square, Hungary
We will meet at the Elizabeth/Sisi statue at the entrance of the square.
Things to note
Entrance fees to the Kazinczy and Rumbach Synagogues are included. 13 and 14 July are off, otherwise, I am available! If you are interested in the tour at a different time&date, let me know, and we will discuss the options.
Free Cancellation
Free Cancellation up to 24 hours before the activity starts. Late cancellation or your non-arrival is not refundable.
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Jewish Quarter Free Tour
- 9.30 / 10 108 reviews | 1,006 travellers Of the four tours we took, this was our favorite because of our guide, Gabor. He was incredibly engaging and enjoyable, in addition to having a definite command of the history of the Jewish quarter in Budapest. I’m not sure there’s a way to know which guides are doing the tours in advance, but we would have happily taken all our tours with Gabor. 10 Fred Elledge
Discover the heroes of World War II with this Jewish Quarter Free Tour around Hungary's capital. Explore one of Budapest's must-see neighbourhoods while you find out about its abundant history.
At the scheduled time, we'll meet at Mádach imre Tér in Budapest and begin a tour around the Hungarian capital's Jewish quarter .
One of the important stops on the tour will be the exterior of the 19th-century Great Synagogue , we'll admire the intricate details which reflect the mix of Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic styles. During the Second World War, the surroundings of this temple were turned into a concentration camp. The next stop will be at the Raoul Wallenger Holocaust Memorial Park , a monument built to honour all the victims of the Holocaust.
Next, we'll go to the Carl Lutz Memorial . Did you know that Carl Lutz helped hundreds of Jews in Budapest to escape? it was the largest rescue operation of Jews during the Second World War. The sculpture was created to always remember the important Swiss diplomat.
The tour will also take us to the mural dedicated to the Spaniard Angel Sanz Briz . This painting was created by the artist Okuda in memory of the Spanish diplomat who saved the lives of 5,000 people by giving them a Spanish passport.
Later, we'll go to the Status Quo Synagogue and learn more about its history. This Mozarabic and Islamic place of worship was designed by the architect Otto Wagner. Then, we'll go to a building in Király Street to see the last remains of the Budapest ghetto in its courtyard.
To conclude the tour, we'll stop in front of the famous Budapest Opera House and discover its importance through the years while we appreciate its impressive facade.
Lastly, the Jewish Quarter tour will end at the Opera's entrance.
More Information
2 hours 15 minutes.
The activity takes place with a guide that speaks in English.
English–speaking guide with expert knowledge in the history of Budapest's Jewish Quarter
Not included
When to book.
You can book up to the start time, as long as there are places remaining. Book now to guarantee your spot.
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Electronic. Show the voucher on your phone.
Accessibility
Wheelchair accessible. This must be indicated in the reservation.
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Free cancellation
Meeting point.
Mádach imre Tér, Budapest
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Virtual Walking Tour: Jewish Budapest (Agi Antal)
Hosted By: Orange County Community Scholar Program (CSP)
In a city that has seen extremes of both ruin and redevelopment in the last 100 years, Budapest’s Jewish Quarter is a perfect depiction of past and present cohabiting and is a must-see for its unique contrasts of old and new–and sometimes, old as new. The Jewish Quarter is a network of lively, connecting streets that sit in amongst the central VII district, a neighborhood scattered with historical relics, as well as all manner of trendy drinking holes buried within the ruins of the old city. On this live, virtual walking tour with our guide Agi Antal, we’ll explore the heart of the historic Jewish quarter of Pest, visit the neighborhood’s “Golden Triangle” and get an introduction to the main synagogues, including an outside visit of the magnificent Dohany Street Synagogue, Europe’s largest. We’ll explore the origins of Pest’s Jewish community and will learn why its congregations separated and the differences between the Neolog and Orthodox communities. And we’ll hear the stories of some of the Righteous Among the Nations who saved Jews in Budapest during the Holocaust. You’ll be fascinated by the rich heritage of this thriving community, still 100,000 strong.
The event listed here is hosted by a third party. My Jewish Learning/70 Faces Media is not responsible for its content or for errors in the listing.
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A Guide To Budapest's Jewish Quarter (Party District/District 7)
Budapest's old Jewish Quarter has become the city's party district but it would be a mistake not to look beneath the surface of this culturally rich neighborhood.
- Offbeat Budapest
- Neighborhoods
Use this map to find all places mentioned in the article below.
A little history
The Jewish Quarter is considered to be the inner part of Budapest's District 7 – the area enclosed by Király Street, Erzsébet körút, Dohány Street, Károly körút. It was here that Jewish people started settling in the late 18th century (the medieval Jewish Quarter on the Buda side was decimated during the battle between the European allied forces and the Ottomans in 1686). Budapest's rapid urbanization and economic development at the time presented plenty of business opportunities for Jews, drawing them in increasing numbers. They, in turn, participated in its progress.
By 1867, around the same time as in Western Europe, Jews in Hungary gained full civil rights. As a result, the Jewish population continued to rise and by 1910, more than 23 percent of Budapest’s population was Jewish (over 200,000 people). The Jewish Quarter became a buzzing neighborhood, teeming with retail stores, kosher restaurants, and three synagogues near one another.
The mutually beneficial relationship between Budapest Jews, most of whom were highly assimilated and thought of themselves as Hungarians, and Christians began to deteriorate after WWI and culminated in the tragic events of the Holocaust – in the winter of 1944, German and Hungarian Nazis turned the Jewish Quarter into a ghetto where thousands died of famine and starvation.
The ghetto's walls ran along today's Rumbach, Király, Kertész, and Dohány streets. In January 1945, the Soviet army liberated the ghetto and saved its residents from mass deportations ( more information about Budapest's Jewish past and present.) There are several Holocaust memorials in the neighborhood today.
The Jewish Quarter declined during the Communist era (1947-1989) as residents moved out en masse or fled Hungary altogether. In the early aughts, reckless real estate developers did plenty of damage to the natural fiber of the neighborhood. Today, fewer Jewish people live here and most, but not all, signs of Jewish life have disappeared. The densely built streets and three beautiful synagogues, known as the "synagogue triangle," still stand as a reminder of the past.
The Dohány Street Synagogue is by far the best known and also the biggest in Europe; it's nearly empty throughout the year, but fills up for High Holiday services. The orthodox synagogue in Kazinczy Street has fewer than a hundred members, and the Rumbach Street Synagogue is no longer functional. The neighborhood has a few glatt kosher restaurants and Jewish-style places have started to appear thanks to the booming tourism.
The Jewish Quarter today
The neglected streets and dilapidated buildings of the old Jewish Quarter are home to a revitalized Hungarian culture today, bristling with shops, bars, cafés, and restaurants. This neighborhood is also the cradle of ruin bars , these quirky drinking joints that started to mushroom inside the vast courtyards of vacant pre-war buildings and have since taken Budapest by storm (the most famous, Szimpla Kert , is also here).
Unfortunately, the Jewish Quarter is becoming a victim of its own success. Skyrocketing tourism is driving the prices up and the local residents away. New places are often absent of the spirit that made the neighborhood special. Nonetheless, this is still a unique area worth visiting, you just need to navigate the tourist-heavy streets with care. This primer is here to help.
Downtown may have more Michelin-decorated restaurants , but the Jewish Quarter is giving it a run for its money with the diversity of its options. For example, within a few minutes from one another, you could have kosher cholent at Hanna , barbecued meat at Bp BARbq , Japanese food at Komachi , or old-school Hungarian fare at Frici Papa .
In addition, many of Budapest's hottest restaurants are also in the Jewish Quarter, including Gettó Gulyás , serving simple but tasty Hungarian stew dishes, Mazel Tov , an updated ruin bar, and DOBRUMBA , a chic Middle Eastern-themed restaurant. Know before you go that tourists account for most customers at these places because of the relatively high price points (still, they're cheaper than comparable spots in Western Europe).
With almost every street lined with attractive-looking drinking joints, the Jewish Quarter's saturated bar scene can feel overwhelming at first. Kisüzem , exuding bohemian vibes, managed to retain a mainly local clientele and serves a broad selection of premium rums from the top shelf. Nappali Kávéház plays in a similar league, except it's stronger on the whiskey front and usually less crowded.
Központ and Telep are where Budapest's trendy hipsters hang out. Fekete kutya and Dzzs bars occupy the in-between territory: part bohemian, part hipster. In the outdooor season, you can enjoy low-priced drinks at Kőleves Kert under a canopy of trees. ( Here's the full list of the best Budapest bars, many of which are in the Jewish Quarter.)
Ruin bars have become a tourist attraction and unfortunately they can bring out the worst of English stag party crews. Nonetheless, Szimpla Kert , despite packs of camera-wielding tourists, is still the best one and worth experiencing at least once.
Throngs of local teenagers and college students who've been priced out of the Jewish Quarter drink away happily for a fraction of the prices just blocks away at bare-bones bars along the Grand Boulevard (Erzsébet Körút). If you're curious, stop by 4es6os Wesselényi before you hit the Jewish Quarter.
When it comes to craft coffee, I often find it difficult to choose from the individual providers because they can be so similar in terms of decor and offerings. I usually end up at My Little Melbourne or Massolit , the latter doubling as a used bookstore. For craft beers, both Hops Beer Bar and Hopaholic have an incredible array of options and knowledgeable bartenders. If you're serious about your drink, be it a classic martini or a contemporary Penicillin cocktail, Boutiq Bar and Hotsy Totsy will not disappoint.
Gozsdu Udvar (Gozsdu Courtyard) consists of a long stretch of bars and restaurants right in the heart of the Jewish Quarter. You should proceed with caution as Gozsdu is another favored hangout of stag parties and it's the type of place where scantily clad hostesses and grouchy bouncers abound. But a few exceptions exist. 2 Spaghi Pasta Bar serves up tasty traditional Italian pastas in a fast casual setting. Spíler delivers everything you'd expect from a trendy bistro and doing it without outrageously high prices. Sáo is the go-to Asian fusion restaurant for the city's fashionable crowd.
Just beyond the Jewish Quarter and dominating the Grand Boulevard (Nagykörút) is the New York Palace. This dramatic building is best known for the New York Café on its ground floor, a famous hangout of journalists and artists of yore. Today, instead of cigarette smoke and alcohol, tourists, sipping €8 cappuccinos and listening to live cabaret music, fill this ornate space complete with bronze statues and a frescoed ceiling.