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© Ilir Tsouko/Lonely Planet

Albania's stunning mountain scenery, crumbling castles, boisterous capital and dreamy beaches rival any in the Mediterranean and continue to enchant.

Best Places to Visit

Spending diaries, attractions, must-see attractions.

The Albanian Riviera

Early in the morning, before the tourist crowds arrive and when the rocks are still tinged in the yellow dawn light, you might just imagine that the…

The evocative ruins of the ancient Illyiran city of Apollonia sit on a windswept hilltop some 12km west of the city of Fier. While a large part of the…

Hidden behind the crumbling walls of the fortress that crowns the hill above Berat is the whitewashed, village-like neighbourhood of Kala; if you walk…

Bunk'Art

This fantastic conversion – from a massive Cold War bunker on the outskirts of Tirana into a history and contemporary art museum – is Albania's most…

Gjirokastra Castle

Gjirokastra

Gjirokastra's eerie hilltop castle is one of the biggest in the Balkans. There's been a fortress here since the 12th century, although much of what can be…

Onufri Museum

The Onufri Museum is situated in the Kala quarter's biggest church, the Church of the Dormition of St Mary (Kisha Fjetja e Shën Mërisë). The church itself…

Durrës Archaeological Museum

This ultra-modern, well lit and labelled museum just back from the seafront has a breathtaking collection of historical artefacts. Highlights include the…

Gjipe Beach

Between Dhërmi and Vuno is the turn-off for this little-known gem, a gorgeous stretch of isolated white sand and rock backed by big cliffs – and as yet…

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Albania is slowly becoming the jewel of the Balkans due to its crystal waters, impressive mountains, and affordability for all types of travelers.

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Albania Travel Guide

Last Updated: April 29, 2024

Albania is one of Europe’s best-kept secrets. Though it increases in popularity each year, the country is largely ignored by tourists; many still think of it as a post-communist backwater (as if the world hasn’t changed in the last 30 years).

Yet this is a land of untouched natural beauty, with a rich history dating back to the ancient Illyrians and Greeks. It has become a solid favorite of backpackers looking for an affordable, off-the-beaten-path destination to explore.

I absolutely loved my time visiting Albania. It’s a country full of good food and welcoming people. I enjoyed it so much that I extended my stay.

Hikers and nature lovers can partake of all the hiking and trekking here, beach lovers have the Albanian Riviera along the Ionian coast, and history buffs can marvel at the country’s uncrowded UNESCO sites in Butrint (an ancient Roman city), Berat, and Gjirokastër.

Albania is on the up and up, with more tourists visiting each year. I think it will become as popular (and expensive) as Croatia in the next couple of years, so visit now before the crowds come!

This travel guide to Albania can help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most of your time in this underrated destination!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Albania

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Albania

1. Explore Tirana

Albania’s capital is rapidly transforming into a vibrant, cosmopolitan city, with its bustling cafes, eclectic museums, and trendy shops and galleries. Sip coffee at one of many espresso bars, dive into the developing digital nomad scene, soak up history in Skanderbeg Square, and enjoy the city’s booming nightlife. For a hefty dose of local culture, check out Bunk’Art, a former bunker built during the Cold War that’s since been turned into an interactive art space. If you’re in town for more than a couple of days, take the Dajti Ekspres to the top of the nearby mountain, check out the cave of Pellumbas, or go and explore the Roman and Byzantine ruins in nearby Durrës.

2. Visit the historic town of Berat

A city that’s been around for 2,400 years, Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the highlights of visiting Albania . It’s also known as “the City of a Thousand Windows” because of its unique white-walled Ottoman homes, picturesquely stacked atop one another on a crumbling hillside and characterized by their many windows. Visitors should make it a point to wander around Kala, an ancient neighborhood with panoramic views, historic mosques and churches, and a 14th-century castle. There are also a number of noteworthy museums in Berat, including the Ethnographic Museum, which is housed in an ornate 18th-century Ottoman home.

3. Drive the Llogara Pass

The Llogara Pass is a steep (at times the incline is 11%), winding road that rises over a thousand meters (3,500 feet) into the mountains and overlooks the glittering Ionian coast, which has been nicknamed the Albanian Riviera. This road goes from Orikum to Dhërmi, and there are lots of scenic stops along the way. If you need to stretch your legs, the trails at Llogara Pass National Park are a fantastic place to do so. Post-hike, grab lunch at one of the many roadside restaurants in the park. Though it used to be a dangerous and narrow road, the Llogara Pass was repaved in 2009. It’s still a tricky route, but it’s worth it — this is the most scenic drive in the country (and one of the most scenic drives in all of Europe).

4. Hike from Valbona to Theth

T of the most famous day hikes in Albania, this is an old mule trail that leads you across the Accursed Mountains. This section is moderately challenging and takes around eight hours in total. There are fresh water springs along the way, as well as some cafes on the route, but make sure you bring plenty of water just in case. It’s a stunning area with an abundance of flora, fauna, and wildlife to see. In Theth, there are some other hikes as well. Most notably, the Blue Eye of Theth is a shockingly blue pool of water fed by a small waterfall that can be reached in about three hours (one way) from Theth.

Also protected by UNESCO, Gjirokastër is famous for its stonework. Wander the cobblestone streets, hike and explore the castle, swim in nearby waterfalls, and visit the best examples of Ottoman-era architecture in the area. There’s a C old W ar museum here that’s housed in an old 800-meter-long (2,624-foot) bunker from the 1970’s. Close to the nearby village of Muzinë is the incredible natural spring called the Blue Eye. Gjirokastër, for me, is one of the best spots in the country.

Other Things to See and Do in Albania

1. relax on the albanian riviera.

Pristine beaches, turquoise water, cheap and delicious seafood — the Albanian coast has all the beauty and wonders of Croatia, without the high prices and crowds (for now). Dhërmi and Ksamil are considered to have the best beaches in the country, with miles of white, sandy beachfront. If you want a busier beach destination, go to Himarë, where the beach has a promenade lined with cafés and bars. For something more off the beaten path, make your way to Gjipe Beach. For a bustling, developed beach town, visit Sarandë, which is packed with hotels, restaurants, and nightlife.

2. Enjoy the view from Rozafa Castle

Situated near Shkodër in northwestern Albania, the 4th-century Rozafa Castle has panoramic views of the area, including the Buna and Drin Rivers. The fortifications here originally date to the 10th century BCE, when the Illyrians lived in the area (the current castle replaced those fortifications). Legend has it that a young woman sacrificed her life to imbue the castle walls with longevity. There isn’t a whole lot to see here, but the ruins are impressive, and it’s a good spot from which to watch the sunset. The Shkodër History Museum provides a great overview of the castle’s past, including the background of the medieval families who lived here. Admission is 150 ALL.

3. Visit the National Museum of History

The National Museum of History in Tirana offers a view of the country’s rich history and is divided into eight sections: antiquity, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, independence, iconography, the National Liberation Anti-Fascism War, the Communist Terror, and Mother Teresa (who was born in Albania). There’s a remarkable collection of ancient Greek and Roman mosaics, columns, and statues unearthed in Albania as well. The collection is extensive, so give yourself around three hours here. Handily, nearly the entire collection is signed in English. Admission is 500 ALL.

4. Explore the ancient ruins of Butrint

Greeks from nearby Corfu settled Butrint in the 6th century BCE. It quickly became a large trading city that was still prosperous when the Romans took over in 167 BCE. Nowadays, you can wander the pathways between what’s left of the city, including well-preserved arches and colonnades. In 2003, Butrint was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. It makes for an ideal day trip from Sarandë. I took my time there and spent about three hours exploring the ruins. The entrance fee is 700 ALL and the 45-minute bus ride costs 100 ALL.

5. Admire the art at Bunk’Art

Bunk’Art 1 and 2 are former bunkers that have been turned into museums and galleries underneath Tirana. Built in the 1970s for Albania’s elite, the bunkers’ 100 rooms have now been transformed into a museum and art space. Bunk’Art 1, located on the outskirts of Tirana, focuses on Albania’s communist past and the lives of average people under communism. Bunk’Art 2, the more recent addition, is located right in Tirana; it focuses more on the secret police that were used by the regime to terrorize the population and maintain order. Admission is 500 ALL.

6. See the ancient ruins at Apollonia

Like Butrint, Apollonia was one of the most important cities in the ancient world. The Greeks founded it in 588 BCE, and it fast grew into a city-state with a huge slave trade (just like Butrint). The Romans took over in 229 BCE, when it became a cultural center with an important philosophy school. Even Julius Caesar sent his nephew (Octavius, who became Emperor Augustus) to study there. Today you can visit the ruins (a UNESCO Heritage Site), which include a theater and the restored façade of the administrative center. Admission is 300 ALL.

7. Visit Shkodër

As the largest town in the north (and home to the Rozafa Castle), it plays host to many of the country’s biggest festivals like Carnival, Lake Day, and the Shkodra Jazz Festival. The city’s Old Town is filled with picturesque, pastel-colored homes and buildings. A lot of people breeze through Shkodër on their way to Montenegro from Tirana, but I recommend spending a day or two here. Check out one of the interesting museums here, like the Marubi National Photography Museum and the Site of Witness & Memory Museum. The former is an Albanian photographic museum; the latter commemorates the victims of the communist regime in the city. e to get to Valbonë. If you don’t want to do that, there are day trips available. You can spend a couple of hours on the lake before going up the Shala River, where you can eat lunch, rent a kayak, or chill on the “beach” (the rocky embankment). The mountain water of the Shala is super clear and clean; it looks almost tropical. The restaurants here also rent rooms (or let you camp for free) if you want to stay the night.

9. Go hiking

Albania has lots of incredibly scenic hikes. If you spend most of your time in the south, you’ll get your pick of coastal hikes along the Ionian Sea, including Mount Çika and through the Ceraunian Mountains. In the north, the hike over the Valbona Pass to the village of Theth is popular for a reason; it’s an incredibly beautiful route (and not for the faint of heart). Routes around the country vary in length and difficulty and trekking information isn’t readily available — large parts of these hikes are still undeveloped, so hire a guide if you want to explore. Outdoor Albania has lots of options to help you get started.

10. Take a wine tour

Albania has one of the oldest winemaking traditions in all of Europe. Albanian wine makes use of incredibly rare grapes, and some of the traditional practices date back to the Bronze Age. Many wineries are family-owned and located in breathtaking settings. You can take wine tours from Berat, Lezhë, and Tirana, on which you can sample some of the country’s finest. Expect to pay at least 6,500 ALL for a day trip.

11. Get spooked at Sazan

The “ghost” island of Sazan is a 30-minute boat ride from the southern port town of Vlorë. It served as a Soviet military base and chemical weapons facility for many years before being abandoned. In 2017, the government opened it for tourism, although officially it remains a military base. The rooms in this vast network of nuclear bunkers and tunnels are still stocked with beds and kitchen supplies, and you can still find abandoned gas masks in the valley nearby. Tours don’t run all the time, so you need to ask in the tourist information office in Vlorë. They can book you onto a tour if they are running. Expect to pay 3,500 ALL or more for a day tour to the island.

12. Hike Osumi Canyon

This gorgeous river canyon in southern Albania makes for the perfect day trip from Berat. It is over three million years old, stretches for 40 kilometers (25 miles), and towers 40 meters (131 feet) above the river. The most popular way to see it up close is with a rafting tour. Tours are available February-June and start at 7,000 ALL per person, which includes transportation from Berat, lunch, and 2-4 hours on the water. You can also opt to hike down through the canyon and explore the ancient rock formations and caves via a 12-kilometer trail.

13. Visit the House of Leaves

The Museum of Secret Surveillance, aka the House of Leaves, is an award-winning museum in Tirana located in the old Sigurimi building (the Sigurimi were the secret police). The building was originally used by the Gestapo during the German occupation, continuing as a base of operations for the secret police until 1991. The exhibitions highlight what life was like under German and then communist rule, shedding light on the methods used to spy on, prosecute, and execute enemies of the regime. It’s sobering but incredibly insightful. Anyone even remotely interested in the dark side of Albania’s past will find this museum fascinating. Admission is 700 ALL.

Albania Travel Costs

Budget hotels can be as cheap as 2,500 ALL per night for a double or twin with a private bathroom and A/C. More realistically, expect to pay around 3,500 ALL or more per night. Most hotels offer a fairly large breakfast, too.

Airbnb is a great budget option here. Private rooms start at 1,800 ALL per night although they average about 3,600 ALL. Expect to pay at least 5,800 ALL for a full apartment or home. Prices double when not booked in advance.

For anyone traveling with a tent, camping is available around the country, and it is perfectly legal to wild camp (i.e., pitch your tent anywhere on public land). If you prefer sticking to campsites, prices are usually around 1,200 ALL per night for a basic plot for two people and a tent without electricity.

Food – Like its Mediterranean neighbors, Albanian cuisine relies heavily on fish, olive oil, and local produce (especially onions). Breakfast is usually bread, cheese, and yogurt. Lunch is the biggest meal of the day. Meat stew, grilled sausage, meat pies, and fresh salads are some of the more traditional dishes. Beef, trout, calamari, and sea bass are all popular staples. Goulash is also popular, though mostly in the mountain regions. Some of the most popular must-try dishes in Albania include byrek (a salty pie with various fillings) and speca me gjize, a dish of stuffed peppers. Wash it all down with tea or raki, a traditional alcoholic beverage.

For a meal at a sit-down restaurant, expect to pay 500-700 ALL for an appetizer, wine, and main course. For a really “nice” restaurant (or maybe one serving fish or sushi), you’re likely to spend 1,400-2,000 ALL. The most expensive meal I had in Albania was at this high-end fish restaurant in Tirana — it cost me 3,500 ALL, which is only $31 USD. That included fish, oysters, and wine!

Pizza starts at 550 ALL, while non-European food like Indian, Thai, or Chinese food costs around 600-900 ALL for a main dish. Fast food (think McDonald’s) costs around 600 ALL for a combo meal.

Expect to pay around 150 ALL for a beer, 150-250 ALL for a glass of wine, 70 ALL for a bottle of water, and 140 ALL for a coffee.

If you are planning to cook your own food, a week’s worth of groceries cost 2,500-3,500 ALL. This gets you basic staples like pasta, rice, vegetables, and some meat.

Backpacking Albania Suggested Budgets

If you are backpacking Albania, expect to spend about 4,400 ALL per day. This budget covers a hostel dorm, cooking your meals, limiting your drinking, using public transportation to get around, and sticking to free and cheap activities like hiking and free tours. If you plan on drinking a lot (Sarandë and Tirana are big party spots), add another 500-1,000 ALL to your daily budget.

On a mid-range budget of around 9,000 ALL per day, you can stay in a private hostel room or private Airbnb, eat out for most meals, enjoy a few drinks at the bar, see more museums and palaces, do a day trip or two, and take the occasional taxi to get around.

On a “luxury” budget of around 15,000 ALL per day, you can stay in a hotel, eat out for all your meals, see all the sites you want, do lots of day tours, and take taxis where you want. This is just the ground floor for luxury. The sky’s the limit!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in ALL.

Albania Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Albania is an affordable country to visit. You’ll be hard-pressed to spend a lot of money, even if you’re staying in private rooms or hotels. You really have to go out of your way to spend money here. But, if you are looking to travel cheap, here are some tips on how to save money :

• Take a free walking tour – Tirana Free Tour offers a free walking tour that highlights the city and its sites. There are also free walking tours in Berat and Shokdër. Just be sure to tip your guide at the end!
• Cook your own meals – Many hostels here include kitchen facilities, so if you want to save money, cook your own meals. Groceries are cheap here and there are a lot of farmer’s markets around where you can pick up fresh produce.
• Stay with a local – Staying with a local via Couchsurfing is a great way to save money and connect with a knowledgeable local who can share their insider tips and advice.
• Bunk up in a hostel – Hostels in Albania are cheap, especially if you book a shared room.
• Walk everywhere – Most towns and cities in Albania are walkable, so skip the public transportation and taxis to save money.
• Enjoy the outdoors – There are plenty of free hiking trails and outdoor activities around the country that can fill your days.
• Take advantage of wild camping – As it is legal to camp anywhere in Albania, traveling with a tent, or in a camper van, is the perfect way to save money on accommodation.
• Bring a water bottle – The tap water here usually isn’t safe to drink, so bring a reusable water bottle to save money and reduce your plastic use. LifeStraw is my go-to brand, as their bottles have built-in filters to ensure that your water is always clean and safe.

Where to Stay in Albania

You won’t find many hostels outside of the main tourist cities, but private guest houses are pretty cheap in the countryside anyway. Here are some of my favorite places to stay in Albania:

• Trip’n’Hostel (Tirana)
• Friends Hostel (Gjirokastër)
• Himara Relax Hostel (Himarë)
• The Wanderer’s Hostel (Shokder)
• Saranda Backpackers (Sarandë)

How to Get Around Albania

Public transportation – In most towns and cities, almost everywhere is accessible on foot. Otherwise, take the bus. The fares cost around 40 ALL per ride.

To get from the airport to Tirana, the cheapest way is via the airport shuttle. It runs from 6am until 6pm and drops you off near the National Museum of Tirana. It costs 400 ALL (one-way) and takes around 30 minutes. Alternatively, you can take a taxi for around 2,500 ALL.

Taxi – Taxis are readily available in all the major cities. Expect to pay 300 ALL to turn on the meter plus another 300 ALL for every kilometer. A lot of taxis will try to quote you a price instead of using the meter, which is almost always overly inflated. Make sure they put on the meter to avoid getting ripped off.

Train – Albania has a small rail network, but I never saw or heard of anyone taking it. The locals I talked to say it is too unreliable and slow. Buses are much faster, cheaper, and more reliable so use them instead.

Bus – Buses are the main form of inter-transportation in the country. They loosely follow a timetable. From major cities and starting points, they tend to leave on time but after that don’t count on it. But getting to your destination? Add an hour buffer just to be safe. The roads are always jammed and aren’t in great shape, so on-time arrivals are rare.

Buses cost from 300 ALL to over 1,000 ALL depending on how far you go. A bus from Sarandë to Tirana takes about 5 hours and costs about 1,700 ALL, while Berat to Tirana costs about 400 ALL and takes under three hours. The two-hour journey from Vlorë to Berat is around 400 ALL.

Pre-booking is never necessary. Just show up at the bus station and grab your ticket.

To find bus routes and prices, use BusBud .

Car Rental – Car rentals start at 1,500 ALL per day. The roads are in bad shape, so be sure to drive carefully. Drivers need an International Driving Permit (IDP) to rent a car here.For the best car rental prices, use Discover Cars .

When to Go to Albania

Albania has a Mediterranean climate, which means super-hot summers (July-August), with a daily temperature averaging over 32°C (90°F), mild winters on the coast, and cold winters in the mountains (November-February).

The best time to visit Albania is during the spring (May-June) or fall (September-October). During this time, the weather is mild, with average daily temperatures around 21°C (70°F), making it perfect for hiking and other outdoor activities.

Of course, if you want to enjoy Albania’s incredible coastline, the best time to come is during the summer. Albania is not yet a huge tourism draw in Europe, so it is rare to find sites and attractions overly crowded, and prices don’t inflate much during peak season. It’s sweltering at that time of year, however, so come prepared for hot weather!

Those who want to get the most bang for their buck should plan to travel during the off season, from November to March. Prices are at their cheapest — though it must be said that the weather can get very cold. If you’re visiting the coastal areas, don’t expect to be able to swim.

How to Stay Safe in Albania

Albania is generally a safe country to visit. Violent crime is rare but petty crime can be an issue so don’t flaunt your possessions and always make sure your valuables are out of reach while on crowded buses.

Solo female travelers should generally feel safe here, however, the standard precautions apply (never leave your drink unattended at the bar, never walk home alone intoxicated, etc.).

If you’re using public transportation in Tirana, pickpocketing can be a concern, as in most other urban areas around the world. Never set down valuable items; keep them tucked away out of sight.

Locals are really proud of their country, and Albanian culture has a long tradition of guest hospitality. Moreover, Albania is a “nighttime” country (i.e., people stay out late), so there are always eyes and ears out, keeping would-be criminals in check. (Many of the women I met there told me they feel very safe walking around at night for that reason.)

The main danger in Albania is reckless driving. Albania has some of the highest road fatality rates per capita in all of Europe, so be sure to pay extra attention when driving or while walking near busy roads.

Near the border with Kosovo, landmines can still be found. Avoid hiking off the marked trails there, and keep an eye out for signs and warnings.

Scams aren’t super common, but they do occur. You can read about common travel scams to avoid here .

If you experience an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. This protects you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations . It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it, as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Albania Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• HostelPass – This new card gives you up to 20% off hostels throughout Europe. It’s a great way to save money. They’re constantly adding new hostels too. I’ve always wanted something like this and glad it finallt exists.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• The Man in Seat 61 – This website is the ultimate guide to train travel anywhere in the world. They have the most comprehensive information on routes, times, prices, and train conditions. If you are planning a long train journey or some epic train trip, consult this site.
• Rome2Rio – This website allows you to see how to get from point A to point B the best and cheapest way possible. It will give you all the bus, train, plane, or boat routes that can get you there as well as how much they cost.
• FlixBus – Flixbus has routes between 20 European countries with prices starting as low 5 EUR! Their buses include WiFi, electrical outlets, a free checked bag.
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

Albania Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on backpacking/traveling Europe and continue planning your trip:

The Perfect 7-Day Croatia Itinerary

The 6 Best Hotels in Copenhagen

The 6 Best Hotels in Florence

The 7 Best Hotels in Madrid

The 6 Best Hotels in Vienna

The Best Walking Tours in Barcelona

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• Where To Stay
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Manuel Almunia exclusive: I felt I could play for England but part of me was thinking, ‘What are you saying? People will want to kill you!’

The Mohammed Bin Zayed Stadium, home of Al Jazira FC, is a giant, imposing arena that holds 40,000 fans. Like many of the architectural boasts of Abu Dhabi it’s probably bigger than it needs to be. The club are owned by Manchester City ’s royal backer Sheikh Mansour — financial muscle is flexed all around the United Arab Emirates’ oil-rich mix of pristine luxury and desert dust.

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It is also the setting for The Athletic ’s meeting with former Arsenal , West Ham United and Watford goalkeeper Manuel Almunia, who now coaches the Middle East club’s goalkeepers.

Almunia’s greeting — like the mid-afternoon 20-degree-heat — is warm and welcoming. The 42-year-old is a picture of good health in his green training top and blue shorts. His CrossFit addiction, which he tells us is good for the mind and the body, has him looking athletic, powerful and arguably even more imposing than when he was still playing five years ago.

We take a seat on a large leather sofa in the reception area of the stadium. Around us, polished marble and glass fight for attention. He’s not really one to do interviews, but via exchanges on WhatsApp, we’ve managed to set one up. The agenda hasn’t really been spoken about though, and as we begin to chat it becomes clear that nothing is off limits.

He will always be a hero to Watford fans, what with that dramatic Anthony Knockaert penalty save and match-winning performances in the Championship season of 2012-13. Arsenal fans will want to know more about his battles with Jens Lehmann and the pressures of playing for one of the Big Six. And what about that story of him wanting to play for England or the health issue that ended his career?

We go into all of that, and more, painting a portrait of a player and man who, while still involved in football, is glad to be in another part of the world and has deep reservations about the power the game has over the hearts and minds of those who play it.

“When the doctor said, ‘OK. You need to stop playing football’ I said, ‘Thank you, this is my chance to rest up,’” Manuel Almunia says bluntly .

It’s not what you expect to hear from a player describing the moment his career was brought to a close, but it gives a good insight into exactly how the Spaniard viewed the game. 

“ I feel like this and many, many footballers feel like this, after many years with this pressure and this way of living,” he says. The heart condition  Apical Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy had been discovered during a medical at Cagliari. Italian football regulations stipulate any player found to have the condition, which can cause sudden cardiac arrest, cannot play professional football. 

“I travelled to Milan for a second test but the doctor told me that in Italy you cannot play with any problem with your heart and recommended I stop playing football because of the risk of maybe collapsing in training or in a game. So that same day I called my wife and said, ‘I’m finished. Let’s go to Spain, go home,’” he explains, as if recounting a happy rather than troubling episode. 

Although he didn’t know, after leaving Watford in 2014, that his career would be brought to a sudden end within weeks of arriving in Italy, there was always a chance that one day this moment would come. It wasn’t the first time a heart issue had been raised.

“I remember at Watford when they did the check for my heartbeat. When the workload was high they said I had to be careful. But still, in England, I could play. So I had this [condition] a long time ago. But in Italy they don’t allow you to play. So I could have gone back to another Premier League team but I felt like this was my chance to stop.

“I just wanted to rest. I didn’t want to make that effort any more. I was going to Italy because it was an adventure and a nice place, but after that my wife asked me, ‘Do you want to find a team in the UK or in Spain?’ and I said, ‘No, forget it. I’m ready to stop.’” 

Although it appears he was more than ready to make the final call. It was perhaps a timely medical intervention.

“I knew I needed to be careful,” he says. “When I told the family, my mother was crying. My uncle died from a heart attack after watching one of my games, in 2002. It was certainly something in my family.”

So, aged 37, time was called on a career that came in three sections: Six years at six clubs developing his game in Spain. Then eight years under intense scrutiny at Arsenal. And finally, two with Watford that included one of his finest moments.

Why did it come as such a relief when he was told to stop? What had worn him down so much during his career?

“Football can kill your brain if you are a person who takes things very seriously,” he says. “It’s what’s happened with many, many players. Even here in Abu Dhabi, I notice some players feel like this, even when their football has no pressure, there’s no fans and no big media. But if there is something you’re not happy with, you take it home and you get really depressed. You accelerate it, all the feelings.

“You see things that are not real. You think that maybe someone is talking about you and it’s not true. But your mind tells you it is, maybe because you make a mistake. You think people are criticising you and, when you finish football, you realise that everything is not true. And you see how nobody cares about you, it’s something you make (up) inside of your head,” he says as he outlines the rollercoaster of emotions that fans often don’t realise some players clearly have to endure. 

“Sometimes even the people that are trying to help you are only there when you have had a great game. On those days when you make a mistake, you have to take all the responsibility yourself. You have to go home and think and think and think, and you only get relief if your next game is a good one — that’s when you can live normally. It’s a kind of pressure that many footballers have.”

It seems Almunia’s mental fortitude was also tested away from the game; on the business side of football and transfers.

“I finished football tired, very tired,” he says. “What I love about football is the green grass. Outside of football I don’t like… it’s a lot of dishonest people. I don’t like agents’ lies and a lot of people moving around football without honesty.”

After his enforced, yet welcomed, retirement, Almunia moved back to the south of Spain, where he coached young goalkeepers in Huelva, Andalusia. It was a sun-kissed antithesis to the high-level game he had willingly exited. “ The club knew I was there so they said, ‘Can you come and train with the goalkeepers? It will be nice for them.’ But it was nothing official,” he says. 

The low-key hiatus in Spain lasted for a year before Gianluca Nani, Watford’s former technical director who was by then working with Al Jazira, offered him the chance to become their goalkeeper coach. Almunia planned to only stay for six months, but instead has been in Abu Dhabi for four years.

“I love the fact that I am doing something that I never expected to do in my life,” he says. “I have a great life. Very relaxed. The weather all year round is fantastic. I have all the time that I want for my hobbies, for my life. I love the people here, the goalkeepers are amazing, they have big hearts. It’s a new culture, a new lifestyle and I’m set up very well here.”

Well paid, no pressure, good people to work with — it’s easy to see the attraction of being outside of the English football pressure cooker.

“I’m not in the mood for professional football. I feel like I don’t need this,” he explains. “I don’t need big games. I don’t need a lot of pressure. I don’t need big stadiums. I don’t need football fans. I like what I have here. They treat me well, they trust me and people are very kind to me. I have a great life.”

Almunia had some great moments during his playing career, though.

The last time Watford played Leicester City and Crystal Palace in consecutive matches — as they have over the last week — came in the final two games of the 2012-13 season. The first, against a Leicester side led by Watford’s new manager Nigel Pearson — a play-off semi-final — was particularly memorable for Almunia. As was the match that followed — albeit for different reasons. “ Afterwards, we did a shit final,” Almunia says with brutal honesty. 

Wembley, and the 1-0 defeat to Palace after extra time, indeed didn’t go to plan, but the match that preceded it will always be remembered for the way that it was won. Troy Deeney’s goal was the difference, but it never would have happened without Almunia saving a last-minute Knockaert penalty. When referee Michael Oliver awarded it, after the Frenchman had flopped to the ground under a challenge from Marco Cassetti, Watford fans at Vicarage Road feared the worst; that the season was over, there would be no final. They weren’t alone in that view. 

“On my mind? ‘Tomorrow, I go on holiday to Spain!’ This is my first thought,” says Almunia, before revealing how quickly his mind switched to the job at hand, and the clarity of thought that made a magical moment possible. “ I was thinking, this player has a good left foot and will need to make sure the penalty was on goal, so he has to shoot hard. Otherwise he had to open his body like this (showing that he would shoot to Almunia’s right instead) but he would not take the risk, because it’s a big moment, so he would smash the ball, I knew it.”

He was confident. His nearest and dearest, less so. “When the penalty was given my wife left for the players’ lounge.” It was tough to watch, but Almunia then produced not one, but two saves from Knockaert, the original shot and then the follow-up, to deny Leicester passage to Wembley. It was made all the more impressive due to the physical condition the goalkeeper was in having been injured in the warm-up for the final regular season game against Leeds United eight days earlier.

“I was injured, my leg was numb. You can see in the video, I had strapping. I had injections for the pain because my hamstring was broken. I was not fit but I needed to play,” he says. And he had cause to be confident when Knockaert stepped up. “I had seen many videos [of the winger’s penalties] and from many angles. I was just saying ‘OK, let’s go, come on.’ But I didn’t expect we would score.”

After a length-of-the-field counter-attack, they did. It’s a moment that will never be beaten for many Watford fans who were there, but also for the goalkeeper who made it all possible.

Happy @T_Deeney Day! 🙌 Surely one of the greatest moments in football history? pic.twitter.com/yFToUNOxnH — Watford Football Club (@WatfordFC) May 12, 2019

“I’ve never felt anything else like this in my life. Football gives you these moments, this is what I miss from football — there is nothing that can give you a feeling like it,” he beams, before being reminded of the carnage that followed with a pitch invasion at Vicarage Road. 

“Suddenly someone jumped on me, I had people on top of me, I couldn’t move. Then when I finally stood up, I could see police with their dogs. I went to speak to the ref and he said, ‘No, there’s still one minute left.’ I said, ‘There cannot be one minute. Everybody’s on the pitch. Come on, finish the game. Don’t make us suffer any more!’

“I was thinking, ‘If Leicester put the ball into our box I will shit my pants,’ honestly! And in fact they did and the ball was bouncing on the penalty spot, I dived on it, and then I was screaming, ‘Ah my hand, my hand.’ The referee came to me and said, ‘Almunia, come on. Finish the game.’ I got up, the game finished, the mascot jumped on my back and I fall down again.”

The celebrations that day continued for quite some time, but wouldn’t be matched after the final in that first season of the Pozzo revolution. The next season it would be time up for manager Gianfranco Zola. “He was one of the greatest coaches and men I have ever met, everybody loved him,” says Almunia.

In the December of that season, Zola was replaced by a fellow Italian, Beppe Sannino. “He had a strong character,” Almunia says. “His English was not good, it was difficult for everybody in the squad. I think he didn’t get into the team completely, maybe some players didn’t like him, some people didn’t like the new staff or we compared it with Zola’s staff but it was not the same.

“When you leave a great season and moment like that, to start again and repeat these moments, maybe we were also tired mentally and obligated again to be on the top of the table but another year starting from zero, so it was hard.”

At the end of that season, although there was an option for Almunia to stay for a further year at Watford, all parties agreed they would try other things. It was time to leave.

“We finished with a good relationship, we appreciated each other and what we needed for ourselves. I have good words for Watford, for all the directors and staff, players and everyone. It was a family club and the relationship was very close, we were like friends and family. I felt very well, especially the first year when things went really well. I really enjoyed Watford.  I love them,” he says.

Before Watford had come Arsenal.

The clubs have adjoining training grounds in Hertfordshire — which often led to Almunia forgetfully driving into the wrong one after he made the switch in the summer of 2012. “I did that a couple of times at the beginning,” he says with a smile — but were worlds apart in terms of stature.

He’d had his most high profile successes under Arsene Wenger but had also experienced the greatest scrutiny. It’s clear that although he made good friends there, his time playing at Highbury and then the Emirates was where his mental state was tested the most.

“Being part of Arsenal is something that is so big,” says Almunia. “Every morning you cannot believe you’re at Arsenal and you enjoy every single year. But it’s also true that it’s a lot of pressure and a big responsibility.”

It also meant a step up in terms of competition within the squad. Specifically, it meant going into an intense environment with Jens Lehmann.

“When I arrived at Arsenal, all I had known was life at the small teams where the relationship between players was always good because we were not big players, we did not get big money. So when I got to Arsenal and I found this super goalkeeper, one of my idols, one of my favourite goalkeepers ever, I couldn’t believe it. I found that super-professional player with strong character, a winner and I really, really enjoyed [working with him],” he says.

It appeared to be a promising start, but they do say never meet your heroes…

“The problems came when I was very excited and very fit, training well with so much energy and at that same time [Lehmann] wasn’t having his best time at Arsenal, so when Arsene Wenger decided to change the No 1… he’s a winner and he took it very badly, which is normal,” Almunia recalls. “He’s a national-team goalkeeper, big name, and I’m a small goalkeeper from Spain who comes along and makes it difficult for him — he’s thinking, ‘What the hell? This is not possible?’ So yes, we had difficult moments.”

In Lehmann’s autobiography, he recounts a full-scale argument breaking out between the two on the training pitch. Almunia admits there were times the pair didn’t talk bar exchanging pleasantries. They were on the same team, but opponents at the same time.

“Goalkeepers [on the bench] want the one who is playing to make mistakes — it’s normal. But in training we had to show respect and try to help each other, not make it difficult for each other. It was tough but we got used to it,” he says.

You may think, then, that getting the opportunity to come on in the 2005-06 Champions League final against Barcelona after Lehmann was sent off on 17 minutes would have had Almunia rubbing his hands with glee. Not so. The emotions were quite different.

“I felt sorry for Lehmann because the ref made an unbelievable decision. He was the best goalkeeper in the Champions League in that season; he saved a big penalty in the semi-final. I felt sorry for him because he didn’t deserve that,” he says. “I felt very good in that game, but we couldn’t hold onto the 1-0 lead and we missed two or three one-on-ones, it was a shame.”

By the 2007-08 season, Almunia had moved ahead of Lehmann in the pecking order. The German had not taken it well and left at the end of the season, but not before surprising Almunia with some out-of-character behaviour.

“We had the club dinner. He was with his wife, I was with mine, they came to us and they were unbelievably nice,” he remembers. “They just started talking to us like friends, like nice people, you know? Polite and smiling. I looked at my wife like, ‘What the fuck? Can you believe this?’ But from that moment we had a very good relationship.”

Almunia realises now that while being mentally draining, their daily rivalry did have its benefits.  “He’s a great, great man and I learnt so much from him. I was so nice and sometimes in football you need to be tougher. He taught me how to act on the pitch, how to command the team, how to organise the team, how to behave on and off the pitch.”

Having ousted Lehmann, Almunia was soon tipped for international recognition — but not with the country of his birth. Due to residency rules, he qualified to play for England having been at Arsenal since 2004, and newspaper speculation suggested Fabio Capello was considering a call-up ahead of the 2010 World Cup in South Africa.

Yet Almunia suggests it was all just a flippant remark that ran out of control.

“I did an interview and the journalist asked me about the Spanish national team. I said, ‘No, it’s not possible, but it’s possible I could try to play for England.’ So after that they all said, ‘OK, he might apply to play for England because he has played there five years already.’ Then the story was growing and growing and I couldn’t stop it. 

“I felt very happy in England — I loved English football, the country and the people. When things go well, you feel you can do anything. And I felt I could play for England. But part of me inside was thinking, ‘What the fuck are you saying? If you play for England, people in England will want to kill you. Then if you go to Spain in the summer, people in Spain will want to kill you too. What are you doing?’ I’m not the kind of person that wants these kind of problems. I never considered it seriously,” he says, setting the record straight. 

After we speak, it’s time for Almunia to head into the stadium and train Al Jazira’s goalkeepers as they prepare for their next game. Diligently he lays out yellow hurdles, white poles and blue ropes for a combination of ‘quick feet’ exercises, he fires crosses in from both sides, then it’s time for some shooting practice.

Six fighter jets fly over the ground in formation at one point, then as training winds down under the instruction of another European on the staff, former Ajax coach Michael Keizer, the call to prayer from a nearby mosque echoes on the evening breeze.

Almunia says he will return to London one day to see friends, but he’s in no rush. The lure of a bigger, more high-profile job doesn’t appeal. Whizzing around on jet-skis in the marina near to his high-end duplex has more allure at this moment. Who can blame him?

We meet by the side of the pitch to say goodbye. He hands me a training top as a souvenir. Before we part, he’s asked to sum up Manuel Almunia in his own words?

“A guy with a massive heart,” he says poignantly. “Too sensitive, now less. Someone who reached higher than I ever expected in my life. Much, much higher — I thought my whole life would be with small teams in Spain. And someone that is happy now that I live here.”

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Cala S’almunia (AMAZING cliff jumping in Mallorca)

Cala S’Almunia or Cala Almonia (same great beach)

Want a two for one special? Cala S’Almunia is the forgotten neighbor of Cala des Moro.

Cala Des Moro is Instagram famous for having an especially striking combination of turquoise waters and rugged cliffs. The beautiful look is continued just next door at Cala S’Almunia!

Unlike a lot of other beaches in Mallorca, this and Cala Des Moro are much less family friendly. The beach has a vibe that feels like a spring break party.

We saw lots of university age people dancing to loud music, sharing a few drinks, and loudly having a good time. For those looking to join that type of party this might be a perfect fit.

I also think more families tend to stay away because the beach doesn’t have a lot of facilities and requires a 15 minute walk to access it. If that doesn’t scare you off you will not be disappointed when you get there. There is still a ton this beach offers.

Required Hike

Quick facts.

• Other Names: Cala S’Almonia, Cala Almonia, Cala Des Moro (next door but same parking)
• Facilities: None, only porta potties at the parking lot 15 min away
• Lifeguards: No
• Parking: Lot is a 15 min walk away (fills up quickly)
• Cost: free, but limited spaces
• Other: gorgeous rock features and mild cliff jumping
• Youtube: Check out my YouTube clips of this beach here.

Confusing Names: Cala Salmonia vs Cala Salmunia

First off, it is worth clarifying that you will see the beach spelled both ways Cala Salmonia and Cala Salmunia. Regardless of which spelling is used, people are generally referring to the same beach.

Cala Almonia As Well

I’ve even seen the beach name spelled as Cala Almonia with no S. Once again, know that all of these names are referring to the same great beach.

Check out the most popular tours in Mallorca

Cala S’almunia Location

This beach is about a 45 minute drive from the main part of the island ( Palma ).

The biggest nearby resort area is Cala D’or (this is where we stayed and loved it!) that is about a 25 minute drive. It is located on the southeast part of the island.

Getting here without a car would be quite difficult, so we recommend renting one here if you would like to visit.

Cala S’Almunia Parking

The parking lot is shared with Calo des Moro (the most popular cove beach in Mallorca) so you can expect it to be crowded.

There is a free parking lot, but make sure you arrive before the peak part of the day as we saw the lot fill up and cars begin to wait for people to leave.

It was a Saturday afternoon in July when we saw the lot fill up, i.e. probably one of the busiest times of the year, but beware that you might not be able to get a spot if you don’t show up early enough, or you may have to wait for someone else to leave.

Once you get a parking spot the difficulties aren’t over. You have to trek through a residential area to get to the beach.

The walk is under a mile, but still takes about 15 minutes.

You will begin on the same path as Cala Des Moro, but they will turn left off of the residential street before you arrive at Cala S’Almunia. To get to S’Almunia you simply continue down the residential street until it ends.

At the end of the street you will come to a steep set of stairs. Seriously, these steps are quite long and quite steep. We literally stopped to catch our breath when we were leaving.

If you do want to drop people off at the steps and then turn around to park you can, though the street has signs that mark it as for residents only.

How to get to Cala S’Almunia from Calo Des Moro (Short hike)

There is a trail that connects Cala Des Moro to Cala S’Almunia. It only takes 5 minutes to walk between the two beaches. It is mainly flat and not high trafficked.

To get to this trailhead from Calo des Moro you will head down the trail that is located to the left of the concession stand. It’s just straight from there.

If you have issues or get confused on which path to take you can always ask people to confirm you are on the right path.

It is also very easy to do this hike in reverse if you want. It’s quick and easy and the parking lot for both is the same.

What to Expect at Cala S’Almunia

Even though there are some drawbacks, this Cala is still awesome and one of my favorites. To help you plan best though you should know what the pros and cons are ahead of time.

Don’t expect a lot of sand

One of the few cons at Cala S’Almunia is there is not a lot of sand…like hardly any.

You will for the most part be sitting on rock which isn’t the most comfortable. The photo below shows the one tiny spot where there is a little bit of sand.

Great cliff jumping

One of my favorite things about this Cala is that there are so many cliff jumping spots.

The cliffs are not super high here (which I loved) but if you are an adrenaline junkie I recommend going to Calo des Moro for cliff jumping that will really get your adrenaline pumping.

Check out this YouTube short to see what I mean.

There are no showers and no bathrooms at the beach. If you are looking for a bathroom your best bet is the porta potties that are directly next to the parking lot.

One thing that was offered at the beach was a small concession stand where you could get cheap beers and sodas. The availability of cheap alcohol likely helps contribute to the party vibe of this cove beach.

• Looks Better In Person -It’s gorgeous, and somehow looks even better in person. There are gorgeous rock features including rock arches,that make it obvious why so many Instagrammers love this beach.
• Two Awesome Beaches at one stop – Cala Des Moro is also worth your time.
• Cheap Beers at concession stands
• Mild Cliff Jumping – for those looking for some fun without being at too extreme a height.
• You will see that a con is that this beach only has a small stretch of sand, but a pro is that there are more shaded areas. Flat rocks around trees to temporarily escape the heat if you like.
• The actual sand at Cala S’Almunia is really limited. It is quite small, which is why most people stretch out along the rock cliffs that line the sides of this cove.
• The hike is through a pretty boring residential area. While on this hike the sun feels extremely powerful. Thankfully, gorgeous waters await at the beach.
• The parking lot can fill up , so make sure you arrive early or be willing to wait for others to leave.
• Super steep steps down into the beach. I was dying, literally I had to stop multiple times to rest. Yes, it was embarrassing.
• The facilities are very limited , with less than ideal bathrooms only being available at the parking lot.

If you are looking for a spot where you can relax on a gorgeous beach with a younger more party oriented vibe, then these two beaches should be included on your next trip!

What to Bring to the Beach

Travel towel – So much easier to pack these quick dry microfiber travel towels  than go without or be forced to buy one once there. We always travel with at least two of them.

Dry Bag – There are some lessons you just don’t want to learn the hard way. Ruining your phone, camera, or other valuables at the beach is a very expensive lesson to learn. This dry bag is amazing and works for any and all water activities.

Reef-safe sunscreen – The sun here can be very strong. Make sure to wear a reef safe sunscreen or a rashguard.

Rash guard or long sleeve swim top – I wear the one from Skims and I love not having to worry about getting burned when I am out in the sun ALL DAY. Free people also has some amazing rash guards you can shop here. 

Backpack or waterbottle sling – I am obsessed with my Beis travel backpack . I never travel without it. It is seriously the perfect size. Not too big, not too small. If you don’t want to bring a full backpack this waterbottle sling is my absolute favorite. It fits a waterbottle, iPhone 14 pro max, plus some extra space for bars or snacks or your wallet.

Packable snacks – I always travel with these That’s it bars from Amazon . OMG, they are sooo good and only have a few minimal ingredients.

Full guides on my favorite Mallorca beaches

I have visited over 30 Calas (or beaches) in Mallorca and have full guides about all of them. From which ones are best to the parking (it can be a nightmare) to how to get down to the actually beach as a lot of them require hikes.

CALO DES MORO – This is probably the most beautiful cove beach I have ever seen. It was crowded when we went (high season) but if you go during the spring or early fall it won’t be nearly as crowded.

CALA S’ALMUNIA   – Amazing cliff jumping spots here. Not too high, not too small. It was just perfect in my opinion. This beach is literally a 5 minute walk from Calo des Moro. Don’t miss it! It’s beautiful!

CALA DES BORGIT – Amazing, lesser known beach. This may have been my favorite Cala we visited. It is much lesser known and wasn’t nearly as crowded as the others.

ES TRENC – Lesser known but amazing! Es Trenc is more of a traditional beach than the others on the list (no rocks or cliffs around) but more out of the way from most of the touristy things. It was another one of my favorite beaches. The water was so blue, and the sand so white! Trust me, you don’t want to miss this hidden gem.

Other Mallorca beaches we loved :

Note: We have been to every single one of these beaches. It was A LOT of work but we love it! Mallorca is one of our favorite spots to vacation in the summer. I hope you find this information helpful. Thanks so much for reading!

• CALA MONDRAGO
• CALA BELTRAN – Hidden gem. Loved this beach! You get there through a hike starting at Cala Pi Beach.
• CALA SA NAU
• CALA S’AMARADOR – Voted best beach in Europe (Personally, it wasn’t my favorite) But still absolutely stunning. Just SUPER crowded in high season.
• CALA LLOMBARDS
• CALA MITJANA
• CALA SERENA
• TRENC BADESTRAND
• CALA ESMERALDA
• CALA EGOS – Relatively unknown beach!
• CALA FERRERA – All-around awesome beach. Whole package.
• CALA SANTANYI
• CALA FIGUERA – Charming fishing village on the south eastern part of the island. No beach

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Your full Wanderlust guide to Albania

Albania is the secret Mediterranean. Closed off for decades following its Communist years, it has escaped the mass development of other chunks of the Med, so Albania's beaches remain largely resort-free. Times are a-changing, however. You will now find decent accommodation in most towns. You'll also find some fascinating sites: castles dot the countryside, old bunkers lay on the beaches and lakes beckon to watersports' lovers (try Lake Shkodër, in the country's north-west, or Lake Ohrid, shared with Macedonia). Also, some pretty untramelled paths wind across the country, 70% of which is mountainous, so hikers will be spoiled for choice. Capital Tirana is a fun find too: visit the interesting museums then head to a cafe in the buzzing Blloku district for a strong dark coffee and a chance to people-watch in this resurging nation.

• Capital city: Tirana
• Population: 2.9 milluon
• Money: Albanian Lek
• Int dialing code: + 00355
• Languages: Albanian
• Visas: UK citizens can stay in Albania for upto 90 days without a Visa
• Voltage: 230V
• Time: GMT+1

Top Travel Tips For Aleria

• As in Greece, a shake of the head means “yes” and a nod “no”.
• Albanians are very hospitable and you may well be offered coffee, sweets etc. It is good manners to accept – and to offer to share anything you have.
• If travelling around by public transport, or going off the beaten track, it may be worth taking some hand gel and toilet paper.

Things to do in Albania

8 things you must do in Tirana, Albania

6 mins sam baker.

Trekking in Albania

Albania's wild, wild east

Wanderlust recommends.

• Track down the   Communist-era buildings   and monuments (not many remain), starting in Tirana’s Skanderberg Square.
• Step back in time in the   historical towns   of Kruja, Durres, Gjirokastra and Berati.
• Trek in the   rugged untouched mountains , home to wolves and bears. Or, if you have limited time, take the cable car up Mount Dajti for amazing views of Tirana.
• Wander the   magnificent archeological site of Butrint , where you will find Roman, Ottoman, Byzantine, Venetian and Illyrian remains all cheek by jowl, and in a beautiful and tranquil setting.
• The 'ghost' island of   Sazan , near Vlora, opened to the public in 2015. There are plans for sympathetic development of the former military base, eg a research centre, but for now enjoy the derelict buildings, nuclear shelters and wildlife without any crowds

When to go Albania

Albania has a   Mediterranean climate   with hot summers, mild winters in coastal regions, but cold winters including snow in the mountains. Spring and autumn are best for sightseeing and walking.

Getting around Albania

Albania's   roads are in very poor condition . Buses and minibuses ( furgons ) are cheap and plentiful. Minibuses will only usually run once they are full.

There are three train lines, but the   trains are so excruciatingly slow   that most people don’t use them. There are plenty of taxis in the towns.

Albania accommodation

There are a growing number of hotels of all standards, although only a handful of deluxe ones. The   price is not necessarily an indicator of standard . Check whether breakfast is included.

Albanian food & drink

Albanian cuisine is generally very good, with a   mix of Balkan, Turkish and Mediterranean influences . Everything is seasonal and organic, so is full of flavour. Lamb and fish are very good, and seafood is excellent along the coast. Vegetarians will fare well, especially in the autumn when there is a huge range of produce.

Albanian wine is very good   and excellent value. Raki is widely drunk, as well as other local liqueurs and brandies. Italian and Greek beers are more widely available than local brands.

There is a   huge coffee culture , with Turkish coffee drunk at home (and always offered to visitors) and Italian coffees in restaurants.

Health and safety in Albania

Albania is a very safe country for visitors; the biggest hazard is probably the appalling driving. However, there are some desperately poor people so   don’t flaunt your possessions   and take the usual commonsense precautions against petty theft and muggings. 

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Travel Advisory July 26, 2023

Albania - level 2: exercise increased caution.

Reissued with obsolete COVID-19 page links removed.

Exercise increased caution in Albania due to crime .

Country Summary : Law enforcement’s ability to protect and assist travelers is limited in some areas, especially in remote regions. There has been targeted violence associated with illicit drug networks and organized crime countrywide. Travelers should remain aware of their surroundings and the extent of police and emergency services in their area.

Read the  country information page for additional information to Albania.

If you decide to travel to Albania:

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on  Facebook  and  Twitter .
• Review the  Country Security Report  for Albania.
• Visit the CDC page for the latest Travel Health Information related to your travel. 
• Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

Embassy Messages

View Alerts and Messages Archive

Quick Facts

At least three months from the date of arrival

One page required for entry stamp

Not required for U.S. citizens. If you are a U.S. citizen and intend to stay more than one year in Albania, you will need to apply for a residency permit. residency permit .

A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required for travelers aged 1 year or over arriving from countries with risk of yellow fever transmission. A list of those countries can be found by visiting the World Health Organization (WHO) .

1,000,000 lekë (approximately $9,500 USD, though the rate can fluctuate) or equivalent.

1,000,000 lekë (approximately $9,500 USD , though the rate can fluctuate) or equivalent. For more information you can visit Albanian Customs website .

Embassies and Consulates

U.s. embassy tirana.

Rruga Stavro Vinjau, 14 Tirana, Albania Telephone:  +(355) (0) 4-2247-285 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  +(355) (0) 4-2247-285 Fax:  +(355) (0) 4-2374-957; +(355) (0) 4-2232-222 Email:   [email protected]

Destination Description

Learn about the U.S. relationship to countries around the world.

Entry, Exit and Visa Requirements

There are no COVID-related entry requirements for U.S. citizens.

Visit the  Embassy of Albania’s website  for the most current visa information.

• Your passport should be valid for at least three months from the date of your arrival.
• You may enter the Republic of Albania as a tourist without a visa. 
• U.S. citizens may stay up to one year in Albania without applying for a residency permit. If you wish to stay in Albania longer than one year, you may apply for a residency permit once you enter the country. For more information on residency permits in Albania, please see the Embassy  website . Prospective residents or those wishing to remain in Albania for longer than one year or who intend to work or study must apply for a residency permit at the office of the Regional Directorate of Border and Migration Police with jurisdiction over their place of residence.

The U.S. Department of State is unaware of any HIV/AIDS entry restrictions for visitors to or foreign residents of Albania.

Find information on  dual nationality ,  prevention of international child abduction  and  customs regulations  on our websites.

Safety and Security

Terrorism:  Some terrorist groups and those inspired by such organizations are intent on attacking U.S. citizens abroad. Terrorists are increasingly using less sophisticated methods of attack – including knives, firearms, and vehicles – to more effectively target crowds. Frequently, their aim is unprotected or vulnerable targets, such as:

• High-profile public events (sporting contests, political rallies, demonstrations, holiday events, celebratory gatherings, etc.)
• Hotels, clubs, and restaurants frequented by tourists
• Places of worship
• Shopping malls and markets
• Public transportation systems (including subways, buses, trains, and scheduled commercial flights)

For more information, see our Terrorism page.

Crime: Credit card fraud is common in Albania, and you should exercise caution by not letting your card out of sight when making a transaction. Visitors need to be very careful when using ATMs. Be alert for strangers looking over your shoulders at the PIN number, and also for any interference with the machine itself that could indicate a camera or card scanner that steals your details when you scan your card.

Carjacking is rare in Albania, but vehicle theft may occur. Make sure your vehicle is locked and keep your possessions well hidden in the trunk.

Recent crime statistics indicate a decrease in numerous violent crime categories to include attempted murder, robberies by force and armed robberies. Street crime is common in urban areas, predominantly at night. The most notable are burglaries, theft, and domestic violence claims.

Attacks using small improvised explosive devices and targeting individuals in contentious disputes have occurred. Remain vigilant when parking in unattended parking areas, avoid parking overnight in non-secure areas, and inspect vehicles for suspicious items. If you find something strange, do not tamper with it and contact the Albanian Police immediately.

Law enforcement’s ability to protect and assist travelers is limited in some areas, especially in remote regions. There has been targeted violence associated with illicit drug networks and organized crime countrywide. Travelers should remain aware of their surroundings and the extent of police and emergency services in their area.

Demonstrations  occur frequently.  They may take place in response to political or economic issues, on politically significant holidays, and during international events. 

• Even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and possibly become violent. 
• Avoid areas around protests and demonstrations. 
• Check local media for updates and traffic advisories.

International Financial Scams:  See the  Department of State  and the  FBI   pages for information.

Victims of Crime: Report crimes to the local police by dialing 112 and contact the U.S. Embassy at +(355) 4 224 7285. Remember that local authorities are responsible for investigating and prosecuting the crime.  U.S. citizen victims of sexual assault are encouraged to contact the U.S. Embassy.

See our webpage on help for  U.S. victims of crime overseas .

The Embassy may be able to assist crime victims with the following:

• Help you find appropriate medical care
• Assist you in reporting a crime to the police
• Contact relatives or friends with your written consent
• Provide general information regarding the victim’s role during the local investigation and following its conclusion
• Provide a list of local attorneys
• Provide our information on  victim’s compensation programs in the U.S .
• Provide an emergency loan for repatriation to the United States and/or limited medical support in cases of destitution
• Replace a stolen or lost passport

Domestic Violence:  U.S. citizen victims of domestic violence may contact the Embassy for assistance.

Tourism:  The tourism industry is regulated, but rules may be unevenly enforced. Hazardous areas/activities are not always identified with appropriate signage. Professional and certified staff may not be available to support some organized activities. In the event of an injury, access to appropriate medical treatment may be sporadic due to limited hours or physical distances. Outside metropolitan areas, it may take more time to reach first responders or medical professionals who can stabilize a patient and provide life-saving assistance. U.S. citizens are encouraged to purchase medical evacuation insurance. See our webpage for more  information on insurance providers for overseas coverage .

Local Laws & Special Circumstances

Criminal Penalties: You are subject to local laws. If you violate local laws, even unknowingly, you may be fined, arrested, imprisoned, or deported. 

Furthermore, some laws are also prosecutable in the U.S., regardless of local law. For examples, see our website on  crimes against minors abroad  and the  Department of Justice  website.

Arrest Notification:  If you are arrested or detained, ask police to notify the U.S. Embassy immediately. See our  webpage  for further information.

Counterfeit and Pirated Goods: Although counterfeit and pirated goods are prevalent in many countries, they may still be illegal according to local laws.  You may have to pay fines or give up such goods if you bring them back to the United States. In Albania, the import and export of goods that infringe on intellectual property rights is prohibited by law . See the U.S. Department of Justice website for more information.

Special Circumstances:

• Albania's customs authorities enforce strict regulations concerning import or export of particular items from Albania, including weapons, endangered wild fauna and flora, and narcotics, among others. Contact the  Embassy of Albania  in Washington, D.C. in the United States for  customs requirements .
• Albanian law allows for dual citizenship. Albanian citizenship may be acquired at birth in certain instances, including if the child has one Albanian citizen parent and other circumstances are met. The Ministry of Internal Affairs, Department of Citizenship, handles citizenship issues. Foreigners can submit the requirements for obtaining citizenship to Albanian embassies abroad or to the regional police in the district they reside in Albania. For full details, please visit the website for the Agency for the Delivery of Integrated Services Albania: https://www.adisa.gov.al/albanian-citizenship/ .
• Albania is a cash economy. Credit card acceptance is limited but ATMs are widely available in cities.
• Sporadic blackouts throughout the country can affect food storage capabilities.
• Tap water is not safe to drink. Air pollution is also a problem throughout Albania, particularly in Tirana.
• Establishing a business in Albania has been made easier through the establishment of the National Business Center, as a single one-stop shop for providing business registration and licensing services. These administrative services are done through simple electronic procedures, in a short time and with symbolic tariffs.

Faith-Based Travelers:  See our following webpages for details:

• Faith-Based Travel Information
• International Religious Freedom Report – see country reports
• Human Rights Report – see country reports
• Best Practices for Volunteering Abroad

LGBTI Travelers:  There are no legal restrictions on same-sex sexual relations or the organization of LGBTI events in Albania. Albanian law does not permit same-sex marriage and does not legally recognize other countries’ same-sex marriage certificates. The government does not prosecute or discriminate against same-sex relationships. Same-sex married couples cannot apply for family residency permits, but they may register individually. Despite the law and the government’s formal support for LGBTI rights, homophobic attitudes remain.

See   our  LGBTQI+ Travel Information   page and section 6 of our  Human Rights report  for further details.

Travelers with Disabilities:  The law in Albania prohibits discrimination against persons with physical, intellectual, or mental disabilities, and the law is enforced. Social acceptance of persons with disabilities in public is not as prevalent as in the United States. The most common types of accessibility may include accessible facilities in newer buildings. Many public buildings remain inaccessible. Expect accessibility to be limited in public transportation, lodging, communication/information, and general infrastructure. Outside of Tirana, accessibility is limited. Aids, equipment, and devices, and rental, repair, or replacement services, have limited availability. Service providers, such as sign language interpreters or personal assistants, have limited availability. Contact the Albanian Disability Rights Foundation for more information.

Students:  See our  Students Abroad  page and  FBI travel tips .

Women Travelers:  See our travel tips for  Women Travelers .

For emergency services in Albania, dial 112 for an ambulance. Dial 127 or 128 for the Fire Department. Not all operators have English, or may have limited ability in English, but will attempt to connect you with an English-speaking responder when possible.

Ambulance services are not widely available and the training and availability of emergency responders may be below U.S. standards.

We do not pay medical bills.  Be aware that U.S. Medicare/Medicaid does not apply overseas. Most hospitals and doctors overseas do not accept U.S. health insurance.

Medical Insurance:  Make sure your health insurance plan provides coverage overseas. Most care providers overseas only accept cash payments. Visit the  U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  for more information on type of insurance you should consider before you travel overseas.

We strongly recommend you obtain  supplemental insurance  to cover medical evacuation.

Vaccinations: Be up-to-date on all  vaccinations  recommended by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention for visitors to Albania.

Further health information:

• World Health Organization
• U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  (CDC)

Air Quality : Visit AirNow Department of State for information on air quality at U.S. Embassies and Consulates.  Air quality varies throughout Albania. Pollution can be a problem particularly in Tirana, and during certain times of year – such as winter, when wood or coal may be burned for heat.

Health Facilities:  The U.S. Embassy maintains information on doctors and hospitals  here . We do not endorse or recommend any specific medical provider or clinic.

• Adequate health facilities are available in Tirana and other cities but health care in rural areas may be below U.S. standards.
• Public medical clinics lack many basic resources and supplies.
• Hospitals and doctors often require payment “up front” prior to service or admission. Credit card payment is not always accepted.
• Private hospitals usually require advance payment or proof of adequate insurance before admitting a patient.
• Medical staff may not speak English.
• Generally, public hospitals are minimally staff overnight in non-emergency wards. Consider hiring a private nurse or having family spend the night with the patient, especially a minor child.
• Patients bear all costs for transfer to or between hospitals.
• Psychological and psychiatric services are limited, even in cities, with hospital-based care only available through government institutions.

Pharmaceuticals:     

Always carry your prescription medication in original packaging, along with your doctor’s prescription. Albanian law prohibits the import and export of narcotic medications and psychotropic substances. For more information, visit the General Directorate of Customs website .

Exercise caution when purchasing medication overseas In Albania, while many medicines are available without a prescription, certain pharmaceuticals may require a prescription from a physician and are sold only at specialized pharmacies. Some medications may not be available locally. Medication should be purchased in consultation with a medical professional and from reputable establishments recommended by a physician.

U.S. Customs and Border Protection and the Food and Drug Administration are responsible for rules governing the transport of medication back to the United States. Medication purchased abroad must meet their requirements to be legally brought back into the United States. Medication should be for personal use and must be approved for usage in the United States. Please visit the  U.S. Customs and Border Protection  and the  Food and Drug Administration  websites for more information.

Assisted Reproductive Technology and Surrogacy : If you are considering traveling to Albania to have a child through use of assisted reproductive technology (ART) or surrogacy, please see our  ART and Surrogacy Abroad page .

Water Quality:  Tap water is not potable. Bottled water and beverages are safe, although many restaurants and hotels may serve tap water unless bottled water is specifically requested. Be aware that ice for drinks may be made using tap water.  

Adventure Travel:  Visit the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention website for more information about  Adventure Travel .

Travel and Transportation

Driving conditions in Albanian can differ significantly from those in the United States. Reckless driving is common. Many drivers do not pay attention to traffic regulations, signals, lane markings, pedestrians, or other drivers. The number of fatalities from traffic accidents is high compared to other European countries. Road conditions vary and are especially poor in rural areas in winter months and during inclement weather. Older sections of the roadway system are poorly lit. Minor traffic disputes can quickly escalate, especially as some motorists could be armed.

• All international driving permits (IDP) issued under the 1949 Geneva Convention are accepted. An international driving permit can only be used for one year. If you wish to drive in Albania for more than one year, you must apply for an Albanian license.
• In Albania,  driving is on the right-hand side of the road . Everyone in the vehicle must wear a seat belt. Mobile phones can be used while driving, but only with a hands-free set. Third-party insurance is required.
• Be aware emergency response services are inadequate. First responders have limited medical training and equipment. Accident victims are often transported to the nearest hospital in the car of a passerby.
• Do not travel at night. Travel outside of urban areas is particularly dangerous.
• Fuel and repair services are common in populated areas, but there is no formal roadside assistance. Tires and replacement parts may not be available.

Traffic Laws:  You may be asked to show your passport in addition to a U.S. or international driver’s license if stopped. Police should provide you with a written ticket citing any fine issued. While procedures may vary by district, you should not generally pay fines directly to police officers; these will be collected at a local police precinct or court.

• If you have an accident, do not move your car, and wait for police to arrive.
• Disregard for traffic laws is widespread.
• You can use a U.S. or  international driver’s license  while in non-resident status in Albania. U.S. citizens remaining in Albania longer than one year must register and apply for resident status and must also apply for an Albanian driver’s license.
• It is illegal to drive under the influence of alcohol at any detectable level.  Albania practices a zero-tolerance policy.  The police will seize your driver’s license and vehicle if caught. You may also be fined or receive up to six months in prison.
• It is against the law to use a mobile phone without a hands-free device while driving. You will be fined if caught.

Public Transportation:  Public transportation options are limited and not generally recommended for visitors. However, marked taxis are considered safe and recommended for use.

• There are no commercial domestic flights.
• Rail conditions are poor, limited, and service is unreliable.
• Private buses travel between most cities almost exclusively during the day on variable schedules.
• Intra-city transit is an unofficial system of privately-owned vans operating without schedules, set fares, or, occasionally, government permission. Many of these vans do not adhere to accepted safety and maintenance standards or driver training. Consider the condition of the van before traveling in one.

See our  Road Safety page  for more information.

Aviation Safety Oversight:  As there is no direct commercial air service to the United States by carriers registered in Albania, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has not assessed the government of Albania’s Civil Aviation Authority for compliance with International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) aviation safety standards. Further information may be found on the  FAA’s safety assessment page .

Maritime Travel:  Mariners planning travel to Albania should also check for  U.S. maritime advisories and alerts . Information may also be posted to the  U.S. Coast Guard homeport website , and the  NGA broadcast warnings .

For additional travel information

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive security messages and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Call us in Washington, D.C. at 1-888-407-4747 (toll-free in the United States and Canada) or 1-202-501-4444 (from all other countries) from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Eastern Standard Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).
• See the  State Department’s travel website  for the  Worldwide Caution  and  Travel Advisories .
• Follow us on  Twitter  and  Facebook .
• See  traveling safely abroad  for useful travel tips.

Review information about International Parental Child Abduction in Albania .  For additional IPCA-related information, please see the International Child Abduction Prevention and Return Act ( ICAPRA ) report.”

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Whether you are a seasoned traveler or just starting to plan your next trip, the Alanita Travel Journal has something for everyone. The TRAVELOGUE - Alanita Travel Journal is your ultimate guide to all things travel, and we are excited to share a diverse range of topics with you in the year 2023. From practical advice on airline ticket pricing and visa planning, to informative pieces on the benefits of working with a travel agent and the cost of making travel mistakes, we have got you covered.

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Albania travel guide: Everything you need to know before you go

Much overlooked in eastern europe, albania has beaches, unique history, lush sunshine and a scene low on tourists, article bookmarked.

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Simultaneously mountainous and coastal, beloved by devoted hikers and sun-worshippers alike, on the face of it Albania seems like a cultural melting pot with Greek, Italian and Turkish influences leaving traces over the centuries. But delve a little deeper and let the Ancient Illyrian land and language reveal itself; it’s one of strength, resilience and contagious joie de vivre .

With the second largest Islamic population in Europe after Kosovo (around 60 per cent of Albanians are Muslim), the country is also the poster child for religious tolerance, with stunning mosques and cathedrals built side by side in the cities and towns of the Balkan nation. It was a stronghold of the Islamic Ottoman Empire for over 500 years and still home to some incredible architecture of the age, despite the best attempts by 20th century dictator Enver Hoxha to destroy it. A visit is sure to be met by very friendly and welcoming locals and some of the most affordable prices in the continent.

Travel restrictions and entry requirements

As of 1 May 2022, all Covid-19 related travel requirements have been lifted. Travellers no longer need to show proof of vaccination or a negative PCR test in order to enter Albania.

Best time to go

With a similarly balmy climate to neighbouring Greece, Albania is one of the sunniest countries in Europe, with sun-drenched hours peaking between April and October. The best time for hiking in the mountains are the quieter spring and autumn months, but thanks to the high altitude, summer also works if you don’t mind more crowded trails. Summer is of course the best time for exploring the beaches of the Riviera, but temperatures do soar, so if exploring the cities and Ottoman towns is high on your agenda, spring or autumn are also preferable.

• Why you should swap packed Greece for the beautiful, quieter beaches of Albania

Top regions

Tirana was a quiet inland town until the capital was moved here in 1912. The considerate 20th century town planning gifts pleasant leafy, wide streets with plenty of shade from the soaring summer heat. The city’s epicentre is the recently pedestrianised Skanderbeg Square, a grand space, home to the beautiful 18th-century Et’hem Bej Mosque, and the angular communist era Opera House and National History Museum. Around the corner, market Pazari i Ri is lined with food stalls and restaurants, but it’s Blloku you’ll want to graze in ‒ this buzzy corner of town was formerly a residential neighbourhood for the governing communist politicians, and is now a vibrant hub of cafes, bars, restaurants and clubs.

Shkoder and the Albania Alps

Established by Ancient Ilyrian tribes in the 4th century BC, Shkoder has seen some action in its time. The gateway to Albania if you’re arriving from northern Europe by bus or car, it’s a peaceful, atmospheric little city ‒ so give it some of your time, as it’s more than just a jumping off point for the mountains. Rent a bicycle and ride out to the lake, dig through the hidden flea markets and find yourself moved by Marubi National Museum of Photography. When moving on, minivans go up to Theth National Park every morning where you can try shorter, local hikes or follow the popular day-long trail to Valbonës, where vans will drive you back down to Shkoder the next afternoon.

Gjirokaster

Famous for its fantastically well preserved, sophisticated Ottoman-era architecture, the winding cobblestoned streets of Gjirokaster are Unesco-protected for good reason. Set back from the coast and nestled up in the hills, the stunning architecture of the old town was once home to one of the biggest hubs of Sufism (a mystical, meditation based school of Islam) outside of Turkey. While only a fraction of the religious sights survived Enver Hoxha’s purge, churches and mosques still live side by side here, as they have done for centuries. Gjirokaster Castle is undoubtedly one of the best in the country (competition is stiff as there are over 150) with glimmering white stone and great fortress walls.

• Tirana city guide: Where to eat, drink, shop and stay in Albania’s capital

The Riviera

The 120km coastal stretch from Vlore to Sarande known as the Albanian Riviera, comprises of picturesque hillside villages and majestic pale blue hues as the Ionian Sea laps its pebble beaches. Popular stops are festival hub Dhermi and backpacker favourite Himare, or go high end at the luxurious cluster of tiny islands in Ksamil. One highway goes along the coast, served by a handful of buses per day in either direction ‒ take this road to explore the lesser trodden beaches along the way, hiring a car or moped, or if you’re feeling brave, do as the young Albanians do and hitch-hike. The crystal clear waters of the riviera are unexpectedly cold, even in the heat of the summer, thanks to springs of water flowing out from the mountains and under the sea bed.

Underrated destinations

Berat and osumit canyon.

Just as impressive as Gjirokaster, but often overlooked in its favour, is fellow Ottoman-era town Berat. Known as the city of a thousand windows, Berat’s glass panes dazzle the viewer, from the banks of the river bend right up into the hills. The Citadel dates to the 13th century with a fantastic little Byzantine, churches inside ‒ pop to St Mary’s for show stopping mosaics. There are of course gorgeous mosques here, too ‒ Berat’s great example of the religious tolerance that Albania is so good at. Take a day trip from here to Osumit Canyon where you can wade through the river past the rock faces and scoop up mud from the riverbed to use as a nourishing face mask.

Butrint Archaeological Park

Greek, Roman and Byzantine ruins all grace this former metropolis, perched on the edge of the Riviera. Butrint is undoubtedly home to the best ruins in Albania and indeed the West Balkans but is often bypassed on the way to the beach. It’s a sprawling site with buildings dotted around the lagoon, (imagine Pompeii in the middle of a bayou), including Roman baths, a Greek amphitheatre and Venetian towers. Prepare to spend the day there and wear extremely comfortable shoes. There’s a later Ottoman addition that’s worth the hike too; infamous leader Ali Pasha built a fortress here to keep an eye on Napoleon, who’d taken nearby Corfu.

Home of Albania’s crisp local lager, Korçë is set amidst picturesque mountains and immersed in nature, yet less trodden by tourists than other parts of the country. Hiking is top of the list of things to do here, but the city is also brimming with fantastic architecture and cultural institutions. "Gjon Mili" Photography Museum gives a glimpse into 20th century life here, while the Medieval Museum, doing what it says on the tin, is one of the country’s best. The show stopping, orthodox Resurrection of Christ Cathedral gets the most attention but tiny Iliaz Bej Mirahori Mosque is also unmissable, as one of the country’s oldest.

• Why Gjirokaster is Albania’s best-kept secret

Best things to do

Take a beautiful hike.

Hiking from Theth to Valbonës, through the Albanian Alps (or the Accursed Mountains as they are sometimes called) tops everyone’s bucket list for a reason. Views this stunning rarely come on such a manageable hike ‒ and it is, with the right footwear, manageable for novice trekkers, as long as you’re able to walk 16km, which takes six to nine hours. This trip takes at least three days on an itinerary, typically with two overnights ‒ it’s a travel day each end as minivans go from Shkoder to either Theth or Valbonës every morning and back in the afternoons, with a full day of hiking in the middle.

Swim in pools and rivers

Take a cold water dip in the unusual sights of natural beauty that Albania has by the dozen. The top three are the Blue Eye, a turquoise pool of chilly mountain spring water (usually around 10-13° Celsius) en route to Gjirokaster; the aforementioned Osumi Canyon near Berat, where you can raft or water hike along the River Osum; or the most intrepid (the road from Shkoder isn’t great) will love swimming in the River Shalë, which flows inside the Albanian Alp range.

Search out the flea markets

These exist in every town and city, rarely marked on mapping apps, but ask a local where the nearest one is and you will be rewarded beyond your wildest, vintage loving dreams.

Getting around

Car or moped hire is comparatively cheap in Albania but if you prefer to use public transport, get ready to embrace a mildly mysterious but fully functional bus network that spans most corners of the country. Use local site Gjirafa to check the long distance bus times and schedules, although the service may leave a bit earlier or later, a definite go with the flow attitude needed. There’s no pre-booking app or sites, you pay the driver so have roughly the correct change ‒ prices are listed on Gjirafa usually too.

How to get there

There are regular direct flights from London to Tirana on Wizz Air, which is both the cheapest and quickest option. But there are a number of flight-free routes, too, depending on the time you have to hand. The quickest flight-free way would be to take trains to Bari in Italy (via Paris, Milan and Rome) and hop on the daily ferry over to Durres on the northern coast of Albania. Or if Balkan buses appeal more than the ferry, take the train as far as Belgrade (via Zagreb) and bus down into Shkoder from there.

Money-saving tip

Albania is remarkably cheap, compared to the majority of other European nations, but if you’re really on a shoestring, take your own tent with you and utilise one of the countless, fantastic campsites that are dotted around the length and breadth of the country.

What’s the weather like?

Albania is blessed with approximately 300 days of sunshine a year, so spring and autumn are fantastic times to go. The summer sees temperatures soar into the 40s so stick to coastal destinations in the height of July and August.

What time zone is it in?

What currency do i need.

Albanian Lek.

What language is spoken?

Albania (aka Shqipërisë ) is home to Albanians ( Shqipëri ) who speak Albanian ( Shqip ).

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Wander-Lush

Easy 2 Week Itinerary for Albania: Nature, Culture & History

This easy itinerary for Albania has a strong focus on nature, history and culture. Use it to plan the perfect 2 weeks in Albania or more, travelling exclusively by bus (no car required!).

After travelling overland in the Balkans for 6 months, Albania stands out as one of my favourite countries in the region.

Compact and relatively easy to get around, in a short space of time you can wander beautiful UNESCO Old Towns Berat and Gjirokaster , soak up the incredible scenery of the Albanian Alps on the Valbona Theth trek , eat delicious Albanian food in the country’s best restaurants, and bask in cafe culture and visit quirky museums in the cosmopolitan capital city, Tirana .

That’s to say nothing of the beautiful beaches along the Albanian Riviera , other natural wonders including waterfalls and Blue Eye water holes , and alternative Albanian cities such as Korca .

This easy Albania itinerary by bus focuses on history, culture and cuisine, with a bit of nature thrown in.

• For even more inspiration, see my list of the 21 best things to do in Albania .
• Planning to rent a car? See my intrepid 2-week road trip in Albania itinerary .
• Don’t forget to read my essential travel tips for Albania !

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

About this Albania itinerary

This Albania itinerary follows a slightly unconventional route, starting in Shkoder in the far-north and ending in Korca in Albania’s southeast. Fitting with my travel style, it prioritises destinations that highlight culture, history and cuisine with a little bit of nature time as well.

You’ll notice that there are no beaches on this Albania itinerary. If you’re a beach person (and it’s the right season), you can easily slot in a few days on the Albanian Riviera after Gjirokaster. At the end of the itinerary, I’ve included more options for extending your stay.

When is the best time to visit Albania?

We visited Albania in mid-June – summer, and the start of the high season. Because Albania is still a relatively off-the-beaten-track destination in Europe, it doesn’t tend to get overcrowded, even in Tirana. An exception would be the beaches along the Albanian Riviera, which do get busy in the summer months (especially July and August).

If the Valbona Theth trek is on your Albania wish list, remember that the high mountain pass is only accessible at certain times of year. The best time to do the trek is between June and September, but the trail might be open as early as May and as late as November depending on weather conditions.

If you’re planning a visit in high season (June to August), there are a couple of things you should book in advance, including your accommodation in Tirana and most importantly your transportation for the Valbona Theth trek.

In this detailed guide to the Valbona Theth trek , I provide instructions and links for booking the Komani Lake Ferry and van transport from Shkoder.

How much time do you need for this Albania itinerary?

I’ve purposefully kept this itinerary quite loose so that you can adjust it to fit your schedule. However, you’ll need a minimum of 2 weeks to cover all the points of interest mentioned.

We did this itinerary in three weeks travelling at a slow pace. If you have longer to spend in Albania, you can easily extend your itinerary by adding on the Albanian Riviera or more trekking in the north.

One of the best things about travelling in the Balkans is being able to hop across the border. From Albania, you can easily continue your travels in Ulcinj and Montenegro , Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia , Kosovo , or Thessaloniki and Northern Greece . The choice is yours!

Recommended 2-week Albania itinerary

Day 1: Shkoder Days 2-5: Valbona & Theth Day 6: Kruje Days 7-9: Tirana Days 10-11: Berat Days 12-13: Gjirokaster Day 14: Korca

How to get around Albania

Before visiting, I heard lots of horror stories about bus travel in Albania that made me quite anxious about getting around. In the end, I had nothing to worry about.

Compared to some other countries in the region ( Slovenia , for instance), bus schedules are a bit looser and the roads are a bit rougher. But all things considered, buses in Albania run pretty smoothly. Stations tend to be well signposted (if not a bit chaotic), there are plenty of bus services running in all directions, and vehicles themselves are usually quite modern, with AC and plenty of luggage room (though don’t expect WIFI or USB portals).

Bus tickets in Albania are well-priced, making this a budget-friendly way to travel.

We did this entire Albania itinerary using a combination of furgons (minivans) and coach buses, plus one ferry. If you want to replicate our route, I’ve included full public transportation instructions for getting from place to place under each destination.

Top tip: Use the website Gjirafa to check bus routes and schedules for Albania and neighbouring countries in English.

Should you hire a car in Albania?

Some people elect to hire a car in Albania and self-drive. While you can certainly pack more into your Albania travel itinerary if you have your own car, it’s not mandatory.

If you do want to go down this path, I recommend using comparison website Discover Cars to find the best deals on international companies and local agents.

Check out my round-up of the best road trip itineraries in the Balkans (including Albania) for more inspiration.

→ Browse Albania car rentals here on Discover Cars .

Where to stay in Albania: Hotels recommended in this itinerary

For quick reference, here is a list of all the accommodations recommended in this Albania itinerary. Further details can be found under each destination.

• Where to stay in Tirana: Arté Boutique Hotel (luxury); Bujtina Shqiptare (mid-range); Tirana Backpacker Hostel (budget); top 10 Tirana Airbnbs .
• Where to stay in Shkoder: Hotel Tradita (boutique); Sweet Living Apartment (mid-range); The Wanderers Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Valbona: Guesthouse Mehmeti (mid-range guesthouse).
• Where to stay in Theth: Guest House Bec Villi (mid-range); Bujtina Polia (farm stay).
• Where to stay in Kruje: Rooms Emiliano inside the castle (mid-range).
• Where to stay in Berat: Hotel Klea (boutique); Villa 97 (mid-range); Berat Backpackers Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Gjirokaster: Hotel Muse’e (luxury); Bed and Breakfast Kotoni (mid-range); Stone City Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Korca: Life Gallery Hotel (luxury); Bujtina Oxhaku (mid-range); Stacioni Hostel (budget).

The perfect itinerary for Albania: Nature, culture & history

Arrive and start your albania itinerary in shkoder.

• Recommended time in Shkoder: 1 night

When you arrive, I recommend heading straight to Shkoder (Shkodër) in Northern Albania. Shkoder is the jumping-off point for trekking in the Albanian Alps. The city itself is small and friendly, and will offer you a good introduction to Albanian history and cuisine.

Shkoder sits on the edge of Southern Europe’s largest lake, Lake Skadar . We did a boat trip on the lake from the Montenegrin side during our road trip (the huge marshland straddles the border), but it’s also possible to explore the lake starting from Shkoder.

Like most cities in Albania, Shkoder is very walkable. Explore the Old Bazaar area, visit the Ethnography Museum , and wander down the main pedestrian street at dusk. The Ebu Bekr Mosque dominates the city’s skyline and can be visited outside of prayer times.

My top recommendation for Shkoder is to hire a bicycle and ride south. A long path follows the two twisting rivers that branch off from the lake, connecting the city with a set of smaller villages where you can find cute restaurants and waterfront cafes.

Rozafa Castle , Shkoder’s medieval fortress, contains a small antiquities museum. It’s located high on a hill, making it a great place to watch the sunset over the lake.

→ Here are more great things to do in Shkoder .

Where to stay in Shkoder

Boutique: Hotel Tradita – beautiful boutique rooms finished with Albanian textiles, set inside a 17th-century building. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Mid-range: Sweet Living Apartment – a self-contained, one-bedroom apartment in the heart of the city, with full kitchen and bikes for hire. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Budget: The Wanderers Hostel – comfortable dorms and private double/family rooms with a colourful courtyard for socialising. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

How to get to Shkoder

From Tirana: If your Albania trip starts in the capital, take a direct bus to Shkoder from Terminali i Transportit Ndërkombëtar dhe Kosovës. Coaches and furgons leave every 30 minutes between 7am and 5pm. Tickets cost 400 LEK, and the journey takes around 2 hours. Double-check times locally.

From Durres: If you’re coming from Italy on the Bari Durres overnight ferry , you can either take a direct bus to Shkoder from Durres station, or change buses in Tirana.

From Montenegro: Buses from Ulcinj on Montenegro’s southern coast bound for Kosovo make a pit stop in Shkoder on their way through. In summer, there are at least two afternoon services on this route.

Take the Kolman Lake ferry to Valbona

• Recommended time in Valbona: 1 night

Leaving Shkoder, press north-east into Albania’s mountainous border region in preparation for the Valbona Theth trek . This is by far the most beautiful part of the country and vies for the most dramatic natural landscape in the whole region.

After travelling to the ferry terminal by road, the first step is to cross Koman Lake (Lake Komani) and the Drin River via a massive prehistoric gorge carved through the mountains. After a few hours on the water, the legendary Koman Ferry terminates in the village of Fierza , where you then jump in a furgon to travel the rest of the way to Valbona (Valbonë).

For full details about getting from Shkoder to Valbona and instructions on how to buy tickets, see this guide .

Valbona itself is small and peaceful, with a scattering of lodgings set in its verdant valleys . When you arrive, eat a home-cooked dinner and get an early night – tomorrow is going to be a big day!

Where to stay in Valbona

Guesthouse: Guesthouse Mehmeti – spotlessly clean family run guesthouse in a serene location. Home-cooked meals are fresh and tasty, and staff speak English and can organise a car transfer to the Theth trailhead. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Hike to the alpine village of Theth

• Recommended time in Theth: 2 nights

Detour: The Valbona Theth hike requires a medium level of fitness. If you’re not keen on the trek, take the Koman ferry as instructed above and spend a couple of nights relaxing in Valbona instead.

The walk from Valbona to Theth was the highlight of my time in Albania . Because of the altitude, you can only do the trek in the warmer months (we still saw traces of snow in June!).

It’s hard to describe the trek without going on and on – but in a nutshell, it involves ascending a steep mountainside, crossing the Valbona Pass , and walking down the opposite side of the mountain into Theth village. There is no other way to get from A to B, so you have to carry all your gear with you and organise lodgings on the other side (for this reason, I recommend leaving your big luggage in Shkoder).

Once you get to Theth, stay for a couple of nights so you can relax and take in the mountain air. There are a number of short walks around town if you need to stretch your legs after the hike, including one trail to a Blue Eye .

Theth is more pleasant than Valbona, which is one of the many reasons I recommend doing the hike in this direction.

Where to stay in Theth

Guesthouse: Guest House Bec Villi – simple family run guesthouse with a beautiful garden terrace. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Farm stay: Bujtina Polia – a tranquil property in the centre of Theth featuring light-filled rooms and an onsite restaurant. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Leave the mountains & return to Shkoder

The ride back to Shkoder from Theth is a bit of a rough one (3-4 hours over bumpy dirt roads), so I recommend spending an afternoon and night in Shkoder to break up the journey before you continue south.

Stay at the same accommodation in Shkoder so you can collect your bags.

A nice way to spend an evening in Shkoder is with a walk through the city park, stopping off at some of the textile and handicraft shops along the main street. Indulge in a full spread of Albanian cuisine at Peja Grill , or treat yourself to a meal in the courtyard at the historic Vila Bekteshi .

Alternative option: If you’re fighting fit after the trek, you can always head straight through to Kruje or Tirana without stopping in Shkoder for the night.

Learn about Albanian history in Kruje

• Recommended time in Kruje: 1 or 2 nights

Kruje (Krujë) is only 30km north of Tirana, so most people end up visiting as a day trip from the capital. Since it’s on the way from Shkoder to Tirana, I suggest stopping off for a night or two – if only to spend the night sleeping inside the castle complex , which is a very special experience.

Kruje was Albania’s first capital and is the spiritual home of the country’s most revered leader, Skanderbeg . The military hero is memorialised in a wonderful museum located adjacent to Kruja Castle, which overlooks the Old City. On a clear day, you can see right to the Adriatic Sea from the top of the old walls.

I enjoyed Kruje for a couple of reasons. It’s quiet – most tourists visit for the day and leave at dusk, which makes wandering the cobbled Old Bazaar after dark all the more atmospheric.

Secondly, there are a couple of guesthouses located inside the castle grounds. It’s a really unique experience to wake up and eat breakfast amongst the ruins .

Where to stay in Kruje

Mid-range: Rooms Emiliano – a wonderful family-style guesthouse inside the castle complex. Wander amongst the ruins at night and eat breakfast with a view in the morning – it’s a very special place to spend a night or two! Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

How to get to Kruje from Shkoder

There are regular buses from Shkoder to Tirana that can drop you off on the highway in Fushë-Krujë, the new part of Kruje.

In the absence of a bus station, coaches leave from the roundabout in the centre of Shkoder ( see the exact location here ) every 45-60 minutes between 6am and 5pm. Tickets cost 300 LEK and the trip takes just over an hour. There is a large white sign on the street marking the departure point and advertising the times.

When you get on the bus, inform the steward that you want to jump off early in Fushe-Kruje (the ticket price will be the same). They will drop you off on the highway. From there, walk east into town towards the bank and George Bush Statue to pick up a minivan, which will take you to Old Kruje on top of the hill (roughly a 20-minute drive; 100 LEK).

Vans stop just shy of the castle grounds. If you’re staying at the very top of the hill, you’ll need to either walk or take a taxi the rest of the way (approx. 300 LEK).

Immerse yourself in Tirana, Albania’s hip capital city

• Recommended time in Tirana: 2-4 nights

After starting your Albania itinerary in the tranquil north, Tirana will be a bit of a shock to the system – in a good way! Some of the most interesting museums and galleries in the Balkans are located in Tirana, including the famous BunkArt 1 and BunkArt 2 , which are set in two of Albania’s disused concrete bunkers.

Cafes, restaurants, street art, quirky architecture and communism-themed bars are just some of the other things to check out in quirky Tirana. This is one of my favourite cities in the Balkans.

→ See my Tirana City Guide for more inspiration .

• Where to stay in Tirana

Luxury: Arté Boutique Hotel – old-world opulence (think parquet floors, emperor-sized beds and velvet drapes) behind a historic facade in the hip Blloku neighbourhood. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Boutique: La Suite Boutique Hotel – modern luxury (white marble bathrooms; generous timber-floored suites) on the river near the Pyramid of Tirana. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Mid-range: Bujtina Shqiptare – homely self-contained apartments with full kitchens and private balconies 700m north from Skanderbeg Square. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Budget: Tirana Backpacker Hostel – mixed dorms and private singles in a friendly hostel with outdoor gardens and communal lounge spaces. Conveniently located 10 minutes’ walk west from Skanderbeg Square. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Airbnb: A-Tirana Apartment – this contemporary, light-filled apartment sleeps 4 and has all the mod-cons of a boutique hotel nestled inside an atmospheric 1968-built Commieblock. Browse more great Tirana Airbnbs here.

How to get to Tirana from Kruje

Make your way back down the hill to Fushe-Kruje by van or taxi. A constant supply of coaches, furgons and city buses ferry passengers between Kruje and Tirana, so you’ll never have to wait more than 15 minutes for a departure.

The trip to Tirana takes 30-60 minutes depending on traffic. Tickets cost around 150 LEK.

Continue to Berat, the ‘city of a thousand windows’

• Recommended time in Berat: 2 or 3 nights

Berat is the first of the twin UNESCO Listed Old Towns you’ll be visiting on this Albania itinerary. Nicknamed the ‘City of a Thousand Windows’ for its signature architecture, Berat oozes with old-world charm.

Spend your days in Berat ambling along the twisted cobble streets of its two opposing neighbourhoods, Mangalemi and Gorica , the old Muslim and Christian quarters. Together they make up Berat Old Town.

Pop into the Ethnographic Museum, eat yourself silly at the terrific Berati restaurants in town, climb up to Berat Castle at sunset for beautiful views, and set a day aside for a trip to the incredible Osumi Canyon and waterfalls outside the city.

→ See my complete guide to Berat for more inspiration .

Where to stay in Berat

Boutique: Hotel Klea – basic rooms in a charming stone building nestled inside the Berat Fortress complex. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Mid-range: Villa 97 – simple self-check rooms with en suites and air-con. Check prices & availability on Booking.com .

Budget: Berat Backpackers Hostel – a well-regarded budget option in the Gorica neighbourhood. Check prices & availability on Booking.com .

How to get to Berat from Tirana

Buses and furgons bound for Berat depart every 30-60 minutes from Tirana’s Terminali i Transportit Ndërkombëtar dhe Kosovës. The journey takes approximately 2 hours, and tickets cost 400 LEK (bus) or 500 LEK (furgon).

In Berat, buses terminate at the Terminali i Autobusave 3km north of the Old Town ( see the exact location here ). From there, you can either take a city bus (30 LEK per person) or a taxi (500 LEK) to reach the Old Town.

Go south to the charming town of Gjirokaster

• Recommended time in Gjirokaster: 2 nights

A small city in the mountains cut from slate and stone, Gjirokaster (Gjirokastër) is absolutely one of the most beautiful places to visit in Albania. Like Berat, it’s Old Town has been inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its cultural and historical value.

As well as a meandering Old Bazaar and unique fortified houses , this charming town boasts a hilltop castle, Gjirokaster Fortress , that houses a fantastic museum. An easy walk from town, you’ll find an Ottoman-era aqueduct nestled in the hills.

Do a walking tour with Stone City Hostel to explore the underground city and war tunnels.

→ See my complete guide to Gjirokaster for more inspiration .

Where to stay in Gjirokaster

Mid-range: Bed and Breakfast Kotoni – quaint guesthouse with city views and a spectacular complimentary breakfast. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Boutique: Hotel Muse’e – 200-year-old property fitted out in proper Gjirokaster style. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Luxury: Kerculla Resort – modern hillside resort with a generous outdoor pool and commanding views. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Budget: Stone City Hostel – popular dorm accommodation with free walking tours of Gjirokaster for guests. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

How to get to Gjirokaster from Berat

Take a city bus back to the Berat Bus Terminal to board a coach or furgon for Gjirokaster. Tickets cost 900 LEK per person, and the trip takes around 3 hours. Most buses then continue to Saranda.

In Gjirokaster, buses terminate at the bottom of the hill. To get to the Old Town, either walk or pick up a taxi – just be careful to negotiate the price first (we unfortunately got scammed by a driver in Gjirokaster and ended up paying triple what we should have).

Finish your Albania itinerary in Korca

• Recommended time in Korca: 2 nights

Korca (Korçë) is unlike any other city in Albania in terms of both its look and feel. Located in the south-east corner of the country close to the border with Greece and North Macedonia, Korca’s history is intertwined with Greek and Aromanian heritage, giving the city a distinctly European feel .

Pretty architecture, a huge cathedral , several amazing museums and the oldest school in Albania are among Korca’s claims to fame.

While you’re there, sip on a Birra Korca at the brewery , cafe hop in the restored Old Bazaar, and visit the outstanding National Museum of Medieval Art .

→ See my complete guide to Korca for more inspiration .

Where to stay in Korca

Boutique: Hani I Pazarit – a historic inn inside with Old Bazaar, featuring a sweet internal courtyard and an acclaimed restaurant. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Luxury: Life Gallery Hotel – a modern and minimal boutique choice with floor-to-ceiling windows and free-standing baths. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Mid-range: Bujtina Oxhaku – a lodge-like guesthouse with city views and homely rooms. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

Budget: Stacioni Hostel – a popular hostel (dorms and privates) that offers free bike hire. Check prices and availability on Booking.com .

How to get to Korca from Gjirokaster

Furgons coming from Saranda make a pit-stop in Korca before continuing on to Gjirokaster. At the time of our trip, there was only one van a day leaving in the early morning. I recommend going down to the bus station the day before to inquire in person. Note that these vans leave from the station office opposite the roadside where you got dropped off.

Tickets cost us 1,300 LEK per person, but the price does fluctuate with the cost of fuel. The trip takes around 5 hours.

Onward travel: Departing from Korca

From Korca, you can either take a bus back to Tirana via Pogradec (3.5 hours) or continue your travels overland into Greece or North Macedonia. We took a bus from Korca to Thessaloniki .

Another option is to go halfway to Pogradec then catch a bus to Ohrid on the North Macedonian side of the lake.

Extra time? More great places to visit in Albania

Albanian beaches.

If some beach time is in order, the pristine beaches in Southern Albania beckon with their white sands, beach bars and sweet thatched umbrellas.

There are dozens to choose from – some have been developed into resorts, while others remain hidden gems. Sarande, Himare, Gjipe Beach, Drymades Beach and Dhermi Beach are all good places to start.

Find more Albania beach recommendations here.

Occupied by both the ancient Greeks and Romans, Butrint is home to a spectacular arena and a range of other ruins . It’s a must-visit for history buffs. Butrint is located at the very southern tip of Albania’s coastline, so the easiest way to visit is on a day trip from Saranda.

Read more about visiting Butrint here.

Pogradec & Lake Ohrid

Lake Ohrid, which Albania shares with neighbouring North Macedonia, is one of the prettiest landscapes in the Balkans. Pogradec is the biggest town on the Albanian side and serves as a nice base for exploring the lake and surrounding wineries .

If you’re game, you can even hire a bicycle and circumnavigate the Ohrid in a day, crossing two international borders along on the way.

Albania’s National Parks

If you’re looking for more hiking trails and outdoor activities, Albania has 15 national parks, all with stunning scenery and beautiful mountains. See this list for inspiration.

Albania travel costs: How much to budget for your trip

Albania is one of the most affordable countries in the region and an incredible budget-friendly destination all round. Our main costs (aside from accommodation and food) was museum entrance fees. You can easily save cash by sticking to free activities: Albania has no shortage of beautiful scenery, beautiful churches and mosques, all of which are completely free.

Eat local for affordable prices on food, stick to buses and furgons rather than embarking on an Albania road trip, and you’ll have no trouble keeping your costs down.

Here is a breakdown of our expenses for 23 days in Albania:

• Sim card & data package: 1,600 LEK
• Restaurant meals: 31,640 LEK
• Groceries: 9,714 LEK
• Coffee, drinks & snacks: 8,650 LEK
• Ground transportation: 13,000 LEK
• Activities & entrance fees: 11,580 LEK
• Souvenirs: 300 LEK
• Total: 76,484 LEK (627.58 Euros) = 13.60 Euros/person/day

What to pack for Albania

• A good quality backpack. The easiest way to get around Albania is with an anti-theft day pack and a large pack for your main luggage. Here are a few of my favourite minimalist backpack designs for inspiration.
• A scarf (women). A lightweight cotton scarf is my number one travel item. In Albania, it will come in extra handy for covering your hair when entering a mosque or Orthodox Cathedral. This neutral travel scarf goes with anything, and it even has a hidden pocket.
• Walking shoes. From cobbled streets to rocky peaks, comfy walking shoes are absolutely essential for Albania. I love these comfy sandals , and my partner lives in these waterproof shoes .
• A reusable water bottle. Avoid single-use plastics whenever you can. I love my S’Well water bottle for warm climates because it doesn’t sweat.
• Wine Wings. Should you decide to buy a drinkable souvenir in Albania, these handy custom-made bottle protectors will keep your vino safe and sound in your luggage. A travel corkscrew and a wine stopper are bound to come in handy, too.
• Entertainment for long bus/furgon journeys. If you don’t suffer motion sickness, an e-reader is great for passing the time on long road journeys. If you have a travel buddy , pick up a headphone splitter – probably my favourite travel gadget of all time – so you can share a screen or a podcast. Check out my full list of essential items to make a long train or bus journey more comfortable .
• Biodegradable wet wipes. Try this convenient travel pack .

Itinerary for Albania: Pin it & share it

Albania Travel Guide

Discover insider tips, itinerary inspiration, and all the best things to see, do and experience in Albania!

Albania Essentials

My favourite resources and tools for planning a trip to Albania.

Find affordable flights to Albania

Book city tours & day trips

Hire a car in Albania

Get a visa for Albania

Find the perfect accommodation

Order the latest Lonely Planet

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hi Emily interesting blog, great information. minus the hikes, do you think I could do this in November??

Hi Cindy, we just came back from spending October in Albania. It was still surprisingly warm! I think early November would be fine. The coast is obviously very quiet now, but Tirana and the interior are beautiful with fall colours.

awesome thanks, we not going for a beach holiday so will be fine. will be visiting Albania and North Macedonia for 5-6 weeks, November and 1st week of December. will have warm clothes as we travel to Poland for the rest of December.

Hi Emily, Great guide full of inspiration as always:)

We will be in Albania in early April for two weeks. April is too early for Theth or the beach, so now we are considering Albania and Kosovo. With two weeks, would you stick to Albania only or add Kosovo too?

Tirana looks like a place we want to stay for a week perhaps, or is that too long?

Hey De Wet! Awesome to hear you’re planning a trip. I would have happily stayed in Tirana for a week, there are a couple of day trips and the city itself is lovely. We are going back in October and plan to do that. If you can add in Kosovo, it would be a great addition. Even just Pristina and Prizren (though Gjakova was my favourite place). But maybe you can still get up to Theth via the new road? It’s a lovely spot to relax and do short hikes, even if you can’t do the big walk.

I’ll look into the new road to Theth as well as Prizren and Pristina, thanks.

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