dually ford excursion

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Excursion Dually Conversion

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I have seen several pictures of Excursion Duallys and have sourced the rear fenders. I have done several F250 and F350 dually conversions in the past but have never attempted an Excursion. I have always just swapped out the axles from a wrecked dually truck to avoid any use of spacers or adapters. Will this same principle work for an Excursion? I'm assuming it will. I just completed doing an '07 coil spring swap into an '00 F250 and would probably go the same rout with the Excursion. The ride is so much better. Anybody out there done this? If so any advice and pictures.  

I guess this isn't a very common or popular conversion. Although when you google it there are pictures of a bunch of them. Oh well I guess I'll just have to do some more homework.  

I didn't reply because I have no experience, but, if you consider that the Ex is essentially an F-250 with a different body, you should be able to do nearly anything (suspension-wise) to it that you could do to an 00-05 F-250.  

masakimm said: Fiberglass Rear Dually Fenders Adapters Wheels Conversion Kits. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk Click to expand...

Pretty sure the excursion and the f250 ecsb share the same frame. The excursion springs are junk so swap those rear springs at the same time.  

Yup. Go with the X/Modified B or X/C springs. I don't actually think B and C are the right codes for the dually version of the springs, but most of those decent spring websites......nevermind, I decided to do the leg work for you. lol While I am not saying you should buy from this site, it's a really good resource for determining spring needs. So, over at SD Springs, it looks like the C codes ARE the dually designated springs and B codes are SRW. However, for the record, either would fit, they just change the ride height, spring rate, etc. Anyway, what's really interesting is that the same code spring changes in dimensions depending on what year you pick. They may all be 3" wide and 25 inches from front to center, but the spring pack thickness and the spring arch changes...as well as the add-on spring changes too. Either way, check THIS webpage out for the basic Excursion spring swap info. HERE is the page which shows what springs go to what vehicles. Just click on the super duty and take a look at the various codes and years to determine what you need/want. For example, the C codes from '02-'04 have an arch height of 8 3/16", while the '05-'06 arch is 6 7/8"....but as it turns out, the C code for '02-'04 is for duallys but the C code for '05-'06 is for SRW. So, takes a little research to figure out exactly what you need, but at least the resources are there.  

Wow what a great website. Thank you so much for the info. It will definitely help in making a decision on the springs.  

Much thanks to Weatherlite for the great info and link to the spring company. I thought I had it all figured out and that I was going to go with the C code dually springs. Then I watched a couple of videos of guys going with 08 and up springs. The front mounting hanger has to be moved 8" forward because of the longer springs but from the videos they are supposed to give better load capacity and a much smoother ride. You can either reuse the stock hangers and drill new holes or there is company that makes custom hangers just for this purpose that use existing holes in the frame. Anybody heard of or had any experience with this. If I'm under the truck doing all this work anyway I want to make it the best it can be. Any thoughts?  

I guess it all depends on what kind of ride you're looking for. I went with what amounts to C codes (I modded B codes for extra capacity and arch) and she still rides great. If you want better articulation and smoother ride, I'm sure the08 and up could be great. One question, though.....what would you use for the front to be able to match the rear's improved ride?  

Well I did the front coil spring conversion on my 2000 F350 and the ride and turning radius is amazing so I plan on doing it to the Ex also. I used Fabtech radius arms and Icon progressive rate springs on the F350 but this time I want to go with 4 link arms. They help the ride and stability even more by keeping the camber stable all the way through the articulation of the axle. I have built several wild one off pickups from F150's all the way to a Monster F650 and all in between but never an Ex. I getting older so this might be my last build so I want it to be special and unique.  

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Dually Excursions????

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My friend came back from florida in his friends "DUALLY EXCURSION" I said NO WAY! Must be a Quab Cab Dually with a CAP. He Said NO, it was A DUALLY EXCURSION. His Girlfreind also agreed it wasn't a F-350. I'm wondering if it's just fender flares and Dually tires? He said his friend custom ordered it from Ford, Acutally they ordered 2? is this possible? Has anyone heard of these? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif  

I've seen Burbs that way, but I don't know if they were special order's or someone just swapping in a dually axle and fenders. never seen an x. Regards, Dave  

About 10 Years ago the wife and I seen a Six door longbox dually F350 that shocked the heck out of us, He said he custom ordered that.  

You can custom order anything you want from a custom shop. Ford doesn't do that. Your dealer may take care of getting it done for you so that it seems Ford did it. Ford has never sold a dually Excursion. Someone did a conversion.  

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This is an instruction page for most vehicles. Not specific to every vehicle. All vehicles very from make and model.  Some of these instructions are not listed for Chevy full size pick ups. For most Chevy full size trucks please have a professional install. ALL of our off road fiberglass parts come standard in a white gel coat.  They are not primed or painted.  To prepare the parts for painting you will need to lightly hand sand them to knock down the shine of the gel coat.  From there you can prime/paint them as if they were a standard sheet metal body panel.  All parts should be painted after they are test fitted and installed.

**Please check out some helpful links and forums at the bottom of this page

Step 1: Remove Stock Fender

Before you can attach a fiberglass fender, you naturally have to remove the old fender first. Although there are some add-on fenders that can go right on top of the stock fender. But for this example, we will remove the old fender.

Open the hood of your car and locate the bolts along the hood line. Once you have located them, loosen and remove them using your socket wrenches. Once they have been removed, keep them in a safe place for reuse later on.

Step 2: Remove the Bumper

Since there will be a bolt also located within the bumper, you have to detach your bumper before you can reach this bolt. But if your wrench can fit, there’s no need to remove the bumper and go right ahead and remove the bolt. Otherwise, remove the bumper and subsequently remove the bolt that it was covering.

Step 3: Remove Corner Lamps

Also remove the corner lamps since there will be more bolts hidden behind them. Remove the lamps by carefully twisting the bulb socket and detaching it from the lamp. A screw will be holding the lamp in place so remove that also. Once the lamp has been removed, remove the bolt it was covering.

Step 4: Remove Mudguards

You also have to remove the mudguards since they will be in the way when removing the fenders later. Use your screwdriver and wrenches to remove this part.

Step 5: Remove the Stock Fender

Depending on your vehicle, you may need to open both doors where you will see more bolts holding the fender in place. These are the last bolts to remove so be careful as you remove these since the fender might fall off. Finally, detach the steel fender from the body after you remove the last remaining bolts.

Step 6: Aligning the Fiberglass Fender

Align the new fender to the spot where the original one sat. Make sure that the holes line up to each other. If there are extra holes on the fender, you may need to drill holes into your chassis. Mark the holes and drill into your chassis. Set up the new fiberglass fender again and align all the holes.

Step 7: Attach the Fiberglass Fender

With the fender properly aligned, put the original bolts back on to keep the fender from falling off. Tighten the bolts and make sure that they are secured and fastened correctly. Inspect the fenders and assure they are lined up correctly and that there are no gaps on the frame of the car or truck. Reinstall the corner lamps, mudguards and bumper after you have installed both fiberglass fenders

*Chevy Silverado’s and 80-96 F150’s are slightly different than all other installs. For these trucks you will need to split the outer fender from the inner fender. To do this you will need to drill out all of the spot welds around the perimeter of the fenders. Our fenders will then install on to the inner fender using your hardware. To install your new fiberglass fenders, reverse the process! You will need to drill out the mounting holes. Be sure to use a drill bit that is larger than actual bolt size. This will allow you to make minor adjustments before you finalize and tighten down your fenders. This is the time to look at the body lines and door gap. You may need to push, pull or lean on the fenders to get them in to the optimal position, a friend is extremely helpful for this. If you run in to a place that doesn’t seem to be lining up, look at the back side of the fender to see why. When the fenders are pulled from the mold they are trimmed and occasionally they will need a bit more trimming

To start with the bedside installation consider the option of removing your bed. While this is not an absolute must, it can make the process a bit easier. You will then need to remove the tail lights, and bumper. The factory bed skins are held on via numerous spot welds around their perimeter. We highly recommend using a spot weld cutter to remove these spot welds, it will make your life a lot easier!

Once your factory bedsides have been removed you will be left with a bare inner bed structure. Start by hanging your new fiberglass bedside over the bed rail. This is the time to start the alignment process. You may need to trim a bit more off the inner bed, or the fiberglass as you work the bedside into its final location. Use the body lines on the cab, and the tail light as reference points. Once your happy with the alignment, begin bolting the bedside into place.

4 evenly spaced bolts along the inner bed rail are sufficient. Also plan on 2-3 bolts along the flange on the front portion of the bed, as well as a bolt or two in the the area that wraps around your tail light. The final step of the installation process is to secure the front and rear portion of the wheel well. These supports are in all trucks straight from the factory. There is not cut and dry way to do this step, but use what is on your truck already for inspiration. It can be as easy as cutting and splicing the existing supports, or you could go as far as fabricating your own custom mounts. This step is very important and if not done properly can lead to cracking and other issues.

Start by removing your hood and hood hinges, the new 1 piece will not utilize the factory hinges. Next step will be to remove your fenders (see fender section above for reference). After these items are removed start the install by mounting your mini fenders. The mini fenders typically allow you to use 2 factory mounting locations, 1 would be at the lower rear portion of where the fender was, and the other location is behind the door. You will need to access this bolt location from inside cab with the door halfway open. We also recommend some extra support where the mini fender latches to the cab. This area is more or less floating and can benefit from extra support from either a tube with a tab, or an L bracket. When mounting your mini fenders be sure to dill out your bolt holes slightly larger than the actual bolt to allow room for adjustment.

Now that your mini fenders are loosely mounted (allowing room for adjustment) it’s time to move on to the hood itself. Set the rear of the hood down on to the mini fenders and slowly lower the front of the hood down to the headlights. You’ll likely need a spacer at the front of the hood for proper mock up alignment, a couple pieces of wood works great. Once you’ve got the front of the hood aligned with the head lights, it’s time to install your latches. The latches have a latch, and a clasp portion. The latch goes on the mini fenders, and the clasp goes on the hood. Drill out the 6 mounting holes and rivet or bolt the latches to the fiberglass. Blue painters tape helps to keep everything in place

Now that the hood is sitting in roughly, its final position, we need to address the hood pins. Proper placement of the hood pins is crucial. Too far out and the center of the hood can catch the wind, too far in and the outside of the hood catches the wind! The ideal spacing for the hood pins is going to be roughly the width of your grille. This is not an exact science, use your best judgement. The actual way to mount the pins will vary by model. With some vehicles you’re able to mount the hood pins directly to the radiator core support, and with others you will need to build risers.

If you’ve got a vehicle that you’re doing a conversion 1 piece on you will need to fabricate a frame structure to mount the lights and grille off of. There are a lot of vehicles that have header panels, which greatly simplifies the mounting process. If there is not a header panel available, you will need to fabricate your own mounts.

*McNeil Racing Inc is not responsible for any delays, stoppage, extra fees for shipments once it has left our facility. 

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Transit times for LTL freight are longer than for full truckload freight (FTL). LTL transit times are not directly related only to the distance between shipper and consignee. Instead, LTL transit times are dependent upon the makeup of the network of terminals and break bulks that are operated by a given carrier and that carrier’s beyond agents and interline partners. For example, if a shipment is picked up and delivered by the same freight terminal, or if the freight must be sorted and routed only once while in transit, the freight will likely be delivered on the next business day after pickup. If the freight must be sorted and routed more than once, or if more than one linehaul is required for transportation to the delivering terminal, then the transit time will be longer. In some instances the LTL freight has up to 10 days of delivery time frame. Also, delivery to beyond points or remote areas will almost always add days to the transit time.

The main advantage to using an LTL carrier is that a shipment may be transported for a fraction of the cost of hiring an entire truck and trailer for an exclusive shipment. Also, a number of accessory services are available from LTL carriers, which are not typically offered by FTL carriers. These optional services include liftgate service at pickup or delivery, residential (also known as “non-commercial”) service at pickup or delivery, inside delivery, notification prior to delivery, freeze protection, and others.

This is usually a 3-5 day transit  time from the time the shipment has left.

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In the event of any additional shipping charges or alterations to your shipping total, we will attempt to contact you and your order will be held, pending your approval of any changes.

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Shipping to Canada is a Little bit of a longer Process. We Try very hard to get the shipments across the border as easy as possible. McNeil Racing does not pay for the Customs and Taxes fees for crossing the border. The customer will have to take care of those fees. McNeil Racing only takes care of the paper work and actual shipment for the package.

McNeil Racing Inc packs all products carefully to prevent damage during shipping. However, damage may still occur occasionally in transit. Buyer must inspect the packaging and the products carefully upon receiving them, then accept or deny the shipment, and if need be, notate any damages and irregularities, such as crushed, torn, punctured, or broken parts on both the packaging and the product, on the freight bill or receipt at the driver’s presence. A signed receipt without any notation releases the carrier as well as McNeil Racing Inc., from any further damage claim. Discovery of damages after a clear delivery becomes responsibility of the customer.

All damages must be notified to carrier AND McNeil Racing Inc within 24 hours. In cases of damage with proper notion on receipt, the carrier will determine whether to pay for the repair cost or replacement value of the damaged goods after damage inspection. Replacement value is the amount the buyer paid to McNeil Racing Inc and is not negotiable.

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99-07 to 2020 Ford Super Duty Conversion Kit

Revamp your trusty 1999-2007 Superduty with our exclusive 2020 Conversion Kit, designed to elevate your truck's style and performance to a new modern level!  

NOTE: Lead times on orders for this specific product are approximately 12 weeks due to high demand.

Parts Supplied with Kit:

• 3" Fiberglass fenders
• Fiberglass hood
• Headlight bracket
• Bumper brackets

Parts Required for Completion:

• 2020-22 Super Duty bumper
• 2020-22 Super Duty grill
• 2020-22 Super Duty Headlights
• Headlight wiring adaptor pig tails

Click Here For Installation Instructions

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