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Spotting Seals & Dolphins on a RIB Trip to Les Écréhous Reef

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Once the domain of smugglers, Les Ecrehous is wild, windswept, and hauntingly beautiful. Home to Britain’s largest breeding population of bottlenose dolphins, Les Ecrehous Reef is Jersey’s best-kept secret and it should be on your bucket list! 

Taking a RIB trip to Les Ecrehous islands is the highlights of my visits to Jersey . Visiting this tiny archipelago of islets just off the Jersey coast (and very close to France) is a magical experience.

In this post, I’ll share how to get to Les Ecrehous, what to do and see when you are there, and tell the story of “The King of the Ecrehous”. You’ll also find hints and tips to make your trip even more enjoyable 🙂

A RIB Trip To Les Ecrehous Islands

Les Ecrehous Reef is a small paradise of golden sand, crystal clear water, and rock, where fish and birds live in peace with the rhythm of some of the biggest tides in the world, largely undisturbed by man.

Where is Les Ecrehous Reef?

Les Ecrehous is situated just six nautical miles off the northeast coast of Jersey (in the British Channel Islands) and less than 10 miles from France’s Normandy coast.  

In 2005 these islets became a  RAMSAR site, protecting the habitat of bottlenose and common dolphins, Atlantic grey seals, and basking sharks.

The three largest islets are called Maîtr’Île ( Master Island ), La Marmotchiéthe and Lé Bliantch’Île ( White Island) . The first two have a few stone huts and houses used as weekend or holiday hideaways – the others are uninhabited.

Low tide at Les Ecrehous

The biggest islet, with two habitable huts. Visit to see the ruined fisherman’s cottages , plus the foundations of a 13th Century priory , with a small menhir (an ancient standing stone) inside it.

La Marmotchiéthe

This is where most RIB trips land. The islet has a tiny cluster of huts around a tiny courtyard dating back to 1800 .

How to Get to Les Ecrehous from Jersey

The Les Ecrehous reef is only accessible by boat. While you can charter a boat for the day (or longer), be aware that Jersey has an enormous tidal range. 

Twice daily, 40 feet of water gushes in and out again, covering and uncovering all but the three largest islets of the Les Ecrehous Reef. Over the years, hundreds have drowned at the mercy of the vicious rocks around Jersey, and there have been many shipwrecks!!

So, unless you’re a competent sailor, you’ll need a local skipper to navigate the treacherous tides, currents, and sandbanks!

On my most recent trip, I saw a French yacht left high and dry on the beach. The skipper had moored up at high tide, unaware that the sea would go out as far as it did!

Yact over on its side as the goes out at Les Ecrehous

The best way to visit Les Ecrehous is on a RIB trip, and there are several good operators.

We picked the 3-hour  Dolphin, Seal, and Reef Exploration RIB trip  to Les Ecrehous from Jersey Seafaris . They have a fun, knowledgeable crew who respect the wildlife and the reef’s environment.

If you’re an experienced kayaker, you can paddle (weather permitting!) to Les Ecrehous in about 2 ½ hours with  Jersey Kayak Adventures .

What to Expect on Your RIB Trip to Les Ecrehous

Kitted out for Dolphin, Seal and Reef Exploration RIB Trip to Les Ecrehous

Before boarding the RIB, trips begin with a safety briefing from the crew. You’ll also get kitted out with a warm, waterproof jacket and life jacket. Even on a hot day, it’s pretty chilly offshore!

Once the passengers have boarded, the skipper fires up the RIB’s engines and casts off from the slipway. After puttering past St Catherine’s breakwater, the power is cranked up to around 30knts (38mph), for an exhilarating 15-minute blast across the waves northeast to Les Ecrehous.

 If you want to take photographs on the RIB trip, forget your “best” camera! Use a GoPro waterproof camera , as it’s a very “bouncy” ride with a lot of sea spray.

You may see a pod of dolphins swimming and jumping from the sea alongside the RIB on the way. Shout out to the crew if you do, as the skipper will slow down to let you take photographs!

As the islands appear, you’ll approach the Les Ecrehous sandbank, which is only revealed twice a day, at low tide, for about 20 minutes. 

“We jumped off the RIB and walked along the sandbank, freshly revealed by the tide as we arrived. It was surreal to walk on the seabed, in the middle of the ocean! Minutes later, the sea reclaimed the sandbank, and it disappeared beneath the waves.”

Hour Dolphin, Seal and Reef Exploration RIB Trip to Les Ecrehous

Before stopping at the main island, the skipper will pilot the RIB around the reef, giving you fantastic photo opportunities. You’ll probably also see grey seals basking in the sun on the rocks. 

Drop-off points vary depending on the height of the tide – the sea goes out a long way, and the reef triples in size at low tide.

The skipper will tell you where and when to meet for your return trip; then, you can explore the island independently. 

Dolphin, Seal and Reef Exploration RIB Trip to Les Ecrehous

Things To Do On Les Ecrehous

While the largest islet (Maîtr’ Île) is only 300 metres long by 150 metres wide, there is plenty to see and do on short boat trips to Les Ecrehous! 

See Bottlenose Dolphins and Grey Seals

You may have been lucky and seen some dolphins and seals as you approach the Ecrehous, from the RIB; however, you’ll have more chances to see seals from the rocky shoreline.

On your RIB ride back to Jersey, you’ll have another chance to see more dolphins – they often swim alongside the RIBs!

Watch sea birds amid stunning scenery

 Les Ecrehous is a protected site for seabirds, with

Explore unique sand, land and sea habitats  

Les Ecrehous is the perfect place to take kids who love exploring nature! There are umpteen rockpools to investigate, oysters growing wild on the rocks, and plenty of different types of shells to examine.

Enjoy golden sandy beaches

What could be better than a whole beach to yourself? It’s often the case on boat trips to Les Ecrehous, as visitor numbers are very limited.

Swim or paddle in shallow, crystal-clear waters

On a hot summer’s day, there’s nothing better than a swim in the clean, clear waters of the Ecrehous. As a bonus, if you’re travelling with kids, the water is shallow for a long way!

Potter around the weather-beaten stone huts and houses

There’s something quite magical about climbing high up on the rocks to where the few Ecrehous houses are perched, and pottering around the tiny courtyard.

You can imagine what it’s like on bleak, wintry days – or think about the time when these islands were a den of smugglers!

Try out paddle boarding or kayaking

While you’ll need to pre-book any watersports activities, the shallow, calm waters of the Ecrehous are the perfect place to enjoy time on the water 🌊🤿🛶

Where To Eat and Drink in Les Ecrehous

There are no food outlets on Les Ecrehous, nor anywhere to refill a water bottle. Most visitors take a picnic to enjoy. No picnic? Before you go, you can buy tasty sandwiches, snacks and drinks from the little café at the trip departure point in St Catherine’s.

Realistically, with a maximum of 2 hours ashore, you’ll barely have time on your RIB trip for a BBQ to get hot, cook your food, and cool down enough to carry back home!

Whatever you do, you must carry every scrap of rubbish away! 

Houses on Les Ecrehous

A Brief History of Les Ecrehous Jersey

In the 17th century, smugglers used the islands to smuggle lead and gunpowder to nearby St Malo in France. The customs house built to quash this activity is still standing today.

Today the islands form part of the Island of Jersey, but sovereignty was hotly disputed for centuries, so France took the United Kingdom to the International Court of Justice (ICJ) in 1950 to decide to which country the Ecrehous belonged. On 17 November 1953, the ICJ awarded the islands to Jersey. 

Low tide at the Ecrehous

The King of The Ecrehous

In 1961, Alphonse le Gastelois started a 14-year self-exile on the islet of La Marmotchiéthe after false accusations that he was guilty of the horrific child sex crimes of the “Beast of Jersey”. A decade later, in 1971, Edward Paisnel was imprisoned for the crimes; however, Le Gastelois remained on the islands, proclaiming himself “The King of The Ecrehous”.

This is my home now! Jersey crucified me.  Le Gastelois to Time magazine in 1971

There are no food outlets on the islands, and nowhere to refill a water bottle, so most visitors take a picnic to enjoy . No picnic? Buy refreshments at the little café at St Catherine’s before you go.

While you can use a BBQ on the islands, there are strict conditions. You MUST avoid areas where birds are nesting, and ensure that any hot spots are doused with seawater when you leave.

Realistically, with a maximum of 2 hours ashore, you’ll barely have time on your RIB trip for a BBQ to get hot, cook your food, and cool down enough to carry back home!

Whatever you do, you must carry every single scrap of rubbish away with you! 

Huts on Les Ecrehous

Need To Know Information

👀 There are toilets at St Catherine’s, but none on the boat or Les Ecrehous. Check out the Les Ecrehous code of conduct for what to do if nature calls. 

Accessibility

This trip isn’t suitable if you have accessibility needs, a back problem, or for expectant women. Here’s why:

  • There’s quite a step down to the RIB from the slipway at St Catherine’s. The crew will help you, but you’ll be stepping down onto the side of an inflatable boat!
  • Depending on the tide, you may need to jump into shallow water, climb up a short ladder, or step aboard from an uneven stone jetty (where there are no railings).
  • The islands are remote and beautiful, but there’s nowhere to sit (except on your own backside/picnic blanket), and there are no paths. You’ll be walking across shingle, sand and rocks.
  • The RIB trip is fast and exciting – it’s also very bouncy!

How to Get To The Departure Point for Boat Trips to Les Ecrehous

The starting point for the RIB trip is the slipway at St. Catherine’s Breakwater on Jersey’s northeast coast.  Here’s how to get there:

Take the N2 or N2A from Liberation Station in St Helier

By Car or Taxi

Location : St Catherine’s Breakwater/Slip, La Route De St. Catherine, Saint Martin, JE3 6DD. Parking is free and plentiful.  

What to Take on Your Trip to the Ecrehous Reef

  • A camera to capture your trip highlights
  • Water in a reusable bottle
  • Sunblock/protection 
  • Swimwear and snorkelling kit
  • Binoculars for bird watching

Where To Stay For Your Trip To Les Ecrehous

The few Ecrehous houses are privately owned, so you won’t be able to stay on the islands. The best idea is to stay in Jersey for a few days to make the most of your trip.

Longueville Manor Hotel

JJersey’s only five-star hotel and a member of the exclusive Relais & Châteaux worldwide collection of luxury hotels and restaurants. The hospitality and service at Longueville Manor are exceptional and you’ll feel like you’ve escaped from the world for a while after a relaxing stay here.

How to Get to Jersey

By Air: Flights operate from major UK airports.

By Sea: Car ferries operate from Portsmouth and Poole, also from St Malo in France.

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HOW TO GET TO JERSEY FROM LONDON

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FAQs: A RIB Trip To Les Ecrehous

Is a rib trip to les ecrehous dog friendly.

No. Dogs are not allowed on the Ecrehous to protect the indigenous wildlife.

How Much Does A RIB Trip to Les Ecrehous Cost?

2-hour trips cost from £40.00 per adult, and 3-hour trips from £50 per adult. Concession fares are available.

How Long Will I Get to Spend Ashore on Les Ecrehous?

On a 2-hour trip, time ashore is about 30 to 45 minutes. You’ll get up to 2 hours ashore on a 3-hour trip. We found that was plenty of time for swimming and exploring 🙂

What to wear on a RIB boat ride?

Your tour company will provide you with a lifevest and a warm waterproof jacket. In addition to this, you’ll want waterproof (or quick drying) shorts/pants and water shoes or sandals with straps. Flip flops are not recommended!

Is there anywhere to stay in Les Ecrehous?

No. The very limited Les Ecrehous accommodation is all privately owned. Unless you plan to sail to the islands and sleep overnight onboard, you will need to return to Jersey after your visit. You will not be able to stay in the Ecrehous houses.

Are there other offshore islands around Jersey to visit?

Yes. Les Minquiers is another popular destination for RIB trips Jersey.

Can I use a drone on Les Ecrehous?

Yes, but strict conditions apply. Drone usage is banned during the nesting season (April to August).

Can I have a BBQ on Les Ecrehous?

Yes. You can use a portable BBQ on Les Ecrehous, but you must take all equipment away with you, and must douse any hot areas on the ground with seawater before leaving the island.

Will I get soaked on boat trips to the Ecrehous?

You’re not likely to get soaked, although you’re more likely to catch some spray if you sit towards to back of the boat!

Further reading for the best places to visit in Jersey

Beautiful sandy beach with tuquoise sea and while hotel buildings. L'Horizon Hotel is one of the best Jersey hotels with an indoor pool at this location

10 Best Jersey Hotels With Indoor Pools: Best Areas + Local Tips 🇯🇪

three tiered cakestand served with sandwiches and pretty cakes for afternoon tea in Jersey in winter

15 Things to Do in Jersey in Winter: The Ultimate Jersey Christmas Guide

Map showing location of the Channel Islands off the coast of France to answer the question, is Jersey part of the UK?

Is Jersey Part Of The UK? (A Local Answers)

Or read more about Jersey | Guernsey | Alderney | Herm

Other helpful tips for visiting the Channel Islands

🏠 Need a place to stay? Browse Booking or VRBO 💃 How about fun experiences? Get Your Guide and Viator have it all 🚗 Considering renting a car in the UK? Use Rentalcars 🔒 Don’t forget about travel insurance from Travel Insurance Master

Final Thoughts on a RIB Trip To Les Ecrehous

So this is our complete guide to enjoying a RIB Trip to Les Ecrehous – an unforgettable experience that offers breathtaking views of the stunning natural beauty off Jersey’s coastline.

With its crystal clear waters, secluded beaches and unique wildlife, Les Ecrehous is a true gem of the Channel Islands. Whether you are looking for an adrenaline-fueled adventure or a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, this hidden paradise is definitely worth exploring by RIB.

So why not take the plunge and embark on this once-in-a-lifetime journey to discover one of Jersey’s best-kept secrets? You won’t regret it!

Pin it to save the RIB trip to Les Ecrehous for later!

rEMOTE DWELLING ON A TINy ISLAND KNOWN AS LES ECREHOUS REEF

Coralie Thornton, the owner and author of Grey Globetrotters, has been a traveller for more than four decades. Today, she helps others experience the UK, Europe and bucketlist destinations with meticulously crafted guides and affordable luxury itineraries, Her passion for adventure has led her through over 40 countries, seeking cultural experiences, delicious foods, and hidden gems.

trips to ecrehous

Visit Ecrehous

24th January 2022

This tiny archipelago, part of Jersey’s Coastal National Park, is one of the Channel Islands best kept secrets. You feel like you are the middle of the ocean but you are only 9.6 kilometres north-east of Jersey. The main islets in the group which remain above water at high tide are Maîtr’Île , which is the largest at 300 metres long, La Marmotchiéthe and Lé Bliantch’Île. At low tide the archipelago’s landmass triples in size and the landscape becomes more like a moonscape with the rocky islets linked by sandbanks.

There is plenty to do with rock pools to explore and the shallow waters are perfect for paddle-boarding, swimming and fishing for seabass from the shore. Sea kayaking around the islets is also an incredible experience. Advanced paddlers can get to the islands under their own steam from Jersey, whilst the less experienced can rent kayaks taken out to the islands on RIB’s.

The islets have an interesting history starting in the 1200’s when a small chapel existed with priory accommodation for a monk and servant who lit a navigation light every night. In the 17 th century smugglers used the island to transfer lead and gunpowder to St Malo and thereafter came a succession of self-styled king’s, fugitives and fishermen.

Today none of the islets have permanent residents, there are a few fishermen’s huts dotted around some of which are used as holiday homes and there is a customs house on La Marmotchiéthe. The 15 minute RIB-ride that leaves from St Catherine’s Breakwater in the north-east of Jersey is an exhilarating trip with plenty of wildlife to spot on the way including Atlantic grey seals, basking sharks and bottlenose dolphins. There is a recommended code of conduct for visitors to allow the bird breeding season to go on without disruption. It is possible to stay overnight in basic accommodation in the Customs House bookable with Jersey Customs.

Find out about boat trips Jersey Seafaris  and Island RIB Voyage s

Visiting Jersey

Check out our island page for Jersey for more information on getting to Jersey , and getting around Jersey and our favourite food and drink in Jersey .

You may also be interested in:

  • Walks from Rozel Harbour to St Catherine’s Breakwater or Bonne Nuit Bay
  • Discover Jersey’s Occupation story
  • Walk to tidal L’Islet (Elizabeth Castle) from St Helier
  • Discover the horrible histories of Mount Orgueil
  • Go glamping at the Durrel Wildlife Park
  • Try some of the best seafood in the Channel Islands
  • Swim or walk on the best beaches in Jersey
  • Enjoy a seafood BBQ in a WW2 bunker
  • Visit one of the ten oldest buildings in the world

Islands nearby

The other Channel Islands are also excellent walking destinations and, together with Jersey, walks around their coast paths form the 110 mile Channel Island Way.

Guernsey – find out about walking in Guernsey, Guernsey’s outdoor activities, cafes and more here

Sark – find out about walking in Sark, Sark’s outdoor activities, cafes and more here

Herm – find out about walking in Herm, Herm’s outdoor activities, cafes and more here

Alderney – find out about walking in Alderney, Alderney’s outdoor activities, cafes and more here

Other islands in the British Isles

We have explored nearly 600 islands in the British Isles and are trying to write them up as fast as we can. Check more here or contact us as we are happy to share our info.

Further information

Our two books are stacked with more ideas on what to do in the Channel Islands and more more info here

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Les Écréhous Walks/boat Trips

Les Ecrehous

Les Écréhous

Les Écréhous Guided Walks – Discover a Wild Beauty

Travel to Les Écréhous National Park by charter boat to experience the islands with a local guide who’ll unveil this extraordinary place’s history and marine life.

We’ll explore the hidden spots and share stories of French invasions and the hermit of Les Écréhous.

Amble between old fishermen’s cabins on La Marmotière and cross sandbars, usually submerged beneath the ocean’s metres.

Perhaps see dolphin and seals en route to the archipelago.

No scheduled dates at the moment.

Private charters on other dates can sometimes be arranged.

Book online. Dates of all our seabed walks are listed in our  Walks diary .

4 hours. The maximum group size is 9. Adults £

Grade of walk:  2 miles (3.2km)  Moderate.  Expect to walk over uneven and rocky terrain.

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30 Jersey Essentials: Les Ecrehous

All information in this blog post is correct as of the publishing date,  12.12.14..

During 2014, we are celebrating 30 years of bringing customers from the UK to the Channel Islands. As part of this celebration, we will be writing about 30 Jersey essentials, from attractions and outdoor activities to special local food and some lesser-known island treats.

Part 15: Les Ecrehous

Jersey’s best kept secret by far, Les Ecrehous is a tiny archipelago of islets located some six miles off the north east corner of Jersey. Its beauty is breathtaking and special moments are to be had all year-round, from stunning sunrises over France and sunsets over Jersey, to the sight of dolphins accompanying you all the way there.

LesEcrehous can only be reached by boat and nobody lives there permanently, but a few stone huts and houses are used as weekend or holiday hideaways by a few lucky islanders. Visitors are welcome for the day.

Ramsar site

Imagine a world of golden sand, crystal clear water and rock, where fish and birds are able to live at peace with the rhythm of the tide. Les Ecrehous are just that and in 2005 became a  Ramsar site , protecting the habitats of many species.

Birds, including migratory species, are plentiful. There is a recommended code of conduct for visitors, allowing birds’ breeding season to go on without disruption. Fishing is normally exciting as the area acts as a nursery. Line catching a sea bass from one of the islands’ shores will be a highlight for many a keen fisherman as celebrity chef Rick Stein has already discovered!

Les Ecrehous

Amongst the most recognised species, you will be able to spot bottlednosed and common dolphins, atlantic grey seals and basking sharks in the water, as well as terns, oyster catchers and herring gulls on the land.

Getting there

As with any prized destination, getting to Les Ecrehous requires a little planning. The tidal range is enormous, with navigation and judgement of the currents better left to professionals. Although many boat charters are available from ‘mainland’ Jersey, it is strongly advisable to have a local skipper on board.

Jersey Seafaris

For an exhilarating trip across, get in contact with Seafaris who specialises in R.I.B trips to Jersey’s otherwise inaccessible coastal treasures. Not only can they deliver a fast and safe approach to Les Ecrehous but the team have an excellent knowledge and huge respect for the wildlife and the environment that you will discover.

Les Ecrehous

Once there you will be able to go swimming, kayaking, paddle boarding, picnicking, walking, fishing and sunbathing.

Les Ecrehous or Les Ecrehou?

‘S’ or ‘no S’ is one of the questions that the quirky Ecrehou Residents Association is asking itself. The islands are looked after by this passionate group of Jersey men and women whose families have for generations owned the cluster of small fishing houses found on the main island or the Maîtr’Île.

Les Ecrehous

The spelling of the name is by no means their only concern. Les Ecrehous is a place of incredible beauty and fragility and will only remain so if visitor numbers and behaviour are kept in check. Maintaining the houses and positioning the moorings are part of their duties when they are not fishing or having a sundowner in a truly special place.

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Trip to Ecrehous - Jersey Seafaris

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The trip was brilliant! The Seafari crew were knowledgeable and friendly. The island we visited was... read more

trips to ecrehous

Loved this trip - very knowledgeable guides, the island was very special - you spend about an hour... read more

trips to ecrehous

Trip to Ecrehous

We had the most amazing experience with Seafaris. Great rib, great crew. Loved it! Even had a dolphin show on the way back. Perfect!

A wonderful way to see the island or go to France for dinner- excellent pilots who know thier stuff and take pride in their job and their island. This is the best way to experience Jersey's coast, with local knowledge and hospitality. I've been on three trips and saw dolphins on two of those trips and seals on one. Thrilling and beautiful way to spend a day.

I set out on the boat one evening with some friends and had a great trip to the Ecrehous. It was a great way to spend and evening and I would recommend to anyone else considering a trip. Seeing the dolphins made it even more worthwhile!

My wife, daughter (8) and I went on a North Island explorer trip. It was a great experience and the two staff were superb. Unfortunately we weren't able to go into the sea caves as the tide was not in our favour, but still a great experience. Sit at the back of the boat if you want padded seating and less bumps. Would recommend this to all thrill seekers.

My Husband and I went on a two hour roundtrip to Ecrehaus Reef and we cannot recommend it highly enough- we had an amazing time and made memories to last a life time (or at least until we go back.....- as we both really want to!) We booked online and it was a very quick process. We then then met the rib at St Catherine's. There was someone to meet us and provide us with life jackets and windproof jackets. After a short briefing, we were then on our way! The ride on the rib was incredibly exilerating- it felt like we were flying over the waves! When we were closer to the Reef we stopped to look for seals- and saw 6! It was wonderful to see them in their natural habitat. The Reef was so tranquil and beautiful. There are a few houses but no one lives there permanently and it's very peaceful. The colours are just stunning, We had an hour to explore (and have a little paddle!) It was then back to the mainland - we chose to sit even further forwards (the closer to the front you are, the more you feel the waves!) Our skippers on the rib were excellent- they clearly loved the area and were very knowledgeable about it. We felt in extremely safe hands. A wonderful experience that is still making me smile!

4 of us went on the Ecrehous Wildlife Seafari (3hrs) and would have went back again the next day if we could. Great boat and great staff ensuring that everyone on the boat is looked after.

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Les Écrehous Kayak Tour

Paddle into nature. Travel by boat to Les Écréhous National Park, then hop onto a user-friendly sit-on-top kayak to explore the archipelago with one of Jersey Kayak Adventures' expert local guides.

As you reconnect with nature, we'll reveal this extraordinary place's history and marine life.

  • Booking needed
  • Active & adrenaline
  • History & culture
  • Water sports

Duration: 3-5 hrs,

Price: starting at £180

  • +44 (0) 7797853033
  • [email protected]
  • https://jerseykayakadventures.co.uk/

More Information

Enjoy the incredible experience of kayaking the crystal-clear waters around tiny islets and lagoons. Les Écréhous is a unique marine environment protected under the Ramsar World Wetlands Convention. It is part of the Jersey National Park.

Our tours last 4 hours with kayaks and all kit supplied — a maximum of 6 guests per trip.

Private charters are possible. Advanced Kayak crossings to Les Écréhous are only possible for experienced paddlers. Contact us for more information.

To get the most out of this trip, you should have some previous kayaking experience so you quickly get out exploring. Novices are advised to join one of our 2¼ hour Coastal Kayak tours with Jersey Kayak Adventures to see how you get on before booking this trip.

  • Route 2: Liberation Station - St. Catherine
  • Route 2A: Liberation Station - St. Catherine

Booking office: The meeting point is confirmed when you have booked online. Ackaless La Grande Route de la Cote St. Martin JE2 6FW

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Trips to Les Ecrehous

I came across this delightful home movie of a families trip to Les Ecrehous in the late 1960’s or early 1970’s. The film reminds me of my first sea kayak trips to Les Ecrehous. After many kayak trips and guided tours to Les Ecrehous these tiny islets still have a special magic.

Almost all the huts remain as seen in the film. A few have been destroyed by storms and rebuilt. Some now include modern windows and solar panels. Many features remain unchanged, apart from a new coat of paint.

The sea still pours between the rocks at high tide as seen in the movie. If you know what you are doing this can be an exciting swimming spot. Just ensure you have plenty of safety cover in place.

I’m quite impressed with the number of Lobsters being caught near to the islet.

The hermit of Les Ecrehous- Alphonse Le Gastelois

My first kayak trip to les Ecrehous in August 1974

The man collecting lobsters is Alphonse Le Gastelois, the hermit of Les Ecrehous. He fled to Les Écréhou, where he lived for 14 years; Alphonse was something of an eccentric and a loner on Jersey and he was therefore a prime target for suspicion when a series of sex crimes occurred. To prove his innocence Alphonse moved to the reef where he remained until 1975.

I recall visiting Les Ecrehous by sea kayak one weekday when no other people were about in the 1970’s. Alphonse reminded me of Robinson Crusoe with a long beard, duffel coat and a huge telescope. He was happy to talk about how the States of Jersey had no right to govern Les Ecrehous. Only the Queen had this right and Alphonse believed he should act as the Queen’s representative.

Les Ecrehous huts are now more brghtly painted than in the film

A large bundle of letters and documents sat in his hut as evidence of his dispute with the States of Jersey to be the Queen’s representative. He wanted to show me the documents and letters but regrettably I did not have time as the tide was turning. It made me wonder whether he visited Jersey to research and follow up his claim to be her majesty’s representative.

In 1971 the perpetrator of the crimes was caught, but by then Alphonse had made Les Écréhou his home and refused to return to Jersey. ‘This is my home now! … Jersey crucified me’ reported Time magazine in 1971.

During the latter years of his residence his relationship with some hut owners became more tense as he increasingly regarded the reef to be under his guardianship. He only returned to live in Jersey in 1975 after he was arrested and charged with arson for burning down two huts. Alphonse was subsequently acquitted but never returned to his remote and wild home.

Impots or customs hut is on the left.The inside views of the hut in the film is on the right

Today we organise guided walking and kayak tours to Les Ecrehous. Travel across by charter boat to to Les Ecrehous and explore the reef with trained guides.

More about Les Ecrehous

There are many variants in the spelling of Les Ecrehous, Écréhou, Ecréhos, Ecréos. One explanation is that the name is derived from the two Scandinavian words sker-holm, meaning rocky islets, hou is a contraction for the Old Norse word “holm” meaning an islet. However, Dr Richard Coates postulates that the preponderance of the use of “..re..” in medieval records suggests that Ecrehous actually means “island distinguished by adjacent skerries”.

The excellent (but out of print) ‘Les Écréhous Jersey’, by Warwick Rodwell is a remarkable source of information about the tiny islands lying 6 miles north east of Jersey.

Learn more about our guided charter boat tours to les Ecrehous .

We travel across by charter boat and there are options to either kayak or walk the reef with our trained guides.

Derek Hairon

trips to ecrehous

About derek

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ecrehous islands

This article was originally published by the i .

“Our commute might be a little, er, choppy today,” announces captain Dan Luce of Jersey Seafaris, as he climbs aboard his RIB and fires up the outboards. “I recommend holding on to your hats.”

He grins, guns the throttle and cranks up the stereo. The synthy bars of Sweet Dreams (Are Made Of This) ring out. With a burst of speed that pins me into my seat, the boat leaps away from St Catherine’s Breakwater like an untethered rocket, skimming onto open blue water. Occasionally, it crests a wave, then plummets vertiginously, thumping back down into the ocean in an explosion of spray: cue squeals from my fellow passengers. “Oops, sorry about that!” says Luce, smiling.

The thirty-minute trip whizzes by. A band of white materialises along the horizon, shimmering, mirage-like, as it gradually resolves into focus. An island appears: first one, then two, then by the dozen. “Welcome to Les Écréhous,” Dan announces, as he cuts the motor and drifts into an empty cove. “Our very own desert islands for the day.”

Six miles northeast of Jersey, the Ecrehous Islands are one of two little-known archipelagos just off the Jersey coast – the other is Les Minquiers, 12 miles south. So secret are they that most UK travellers don’t even know the islands exist.

That could be because, depending on the tide, you could quite easily miss them altogether. Extraordinarily, the Ecrehous all but vanish at high tide. Only three islands keep their heads permanently above water: the largest, Maîtr’Île, measures just 300m long, while neighbouring La Marmotière and Blanche Île are even tinier.

Most are little more than rocky atolls, cloaked by seaweed and wrack. But at low tide, the landscape of the Ecrehous transforms. The islands have a massive tidal range, as much as 12m on a big spring tide – and, as the sea recedes, the archipelago’s landmass triples in a few hours, revealing an Atlantis-like landscape of sandbanks, beaches, coves, banks, bays and islets.

If you time it right, it’s possible to walk right out onto the sandy seabed, reaching islands that, only hours before, had been submerged under several metres of water. It’s an intoxicating experience: padding out on to pristine sand, soft as silk, unsullied by human footsteps. It feels like walking on the surface of the moon.

Beautiful they most certainly are, but the islands are treacherous, too. “The Ecrehous are tricky to navigate unless you know what you’re doing,” Luce explains. A lifelong skipper and fisherman, he has been visiting the Ecrehous since he was a boy and knows them as well as anyone – but even he is sometimes caught out here.

“The currents are changing constantly. Sandbanks appear out of nowhere that didn’t exist the day before. The tides come up faster than you can run. So, you always need to keep one eye on what the sea is up to.”

For centuries, the Ecrehous were contested territory, squabbled over by Britain and France. Since the 1950s, they have belonged to the Bailiwick of Jersey, but they remain contentious: in 1993 and 1994, they were occupied by French “invaders”, who raised Norman flags before swiftly being booted off.

Their name derives from two old Norse words – esker, meaning bank, and hou, meaning island – but their human history stretches back much further. Flint tools and Neolithic remains have been found here, and during the last Ice Age, the islands were still part of the European continent. It is bizarre to realise that 10,000 years ago, the Ecrehous wouldn’t have been islands at all, but hills.

For centuries, the Ecrehous were a refuge for fishermen and smugglers, and during the 18th century, a hermit named Philippe Pinel (the self-proclaimed “King of the Ecrehous”) lived on Blanche Île for more than 40 years.

Nowadays, they’re a precious haven for wildlife. The Ecrehous Islands are one of Jersey’s most important Ramsar sites, a marine conservation zone that safeguards the islands’ fragile wetland habitats. They also mark the northern reaches of Jersey’s national park. In 2022, four zones at the Ecrehous were designated Areas of Special Protection to reduce the risk to birds from visitors. Among the species that breed or nest here are the common tern, roseate tern, oystercatcher, European shag and great cormorant.

The only sign of human habitation on the islands is a cluster of concrete cottages huddled at the far end of La Marmotière. These tiny houses have been passed down through generations of Jersey families, Luce tells me, and almost never come up for sale. On fine summer days, their owners sail out to spend a few days here, setting out deckchairs on the rocks, snorkelling, having barbecues and soaking up the isolation. “They’re the ultimate Jersey holiday home,” he adds. “You could name your price if one ever came up for sale.”

Short of a spare million, I settle instead for a splendidly lonely stroll along La Marmotière’s shoreline. Seals bask on the rocks, sunbathing in the spring sunshine, entirely unfazed by my arrival. Oystercatchers and terns dart low over the water, scanning the water for a meal. Crabs and starfish scuttle through the rockpools. I paddle in a cove where the water is so dazzlingly blue, it looks like it has been Photoshopped.

But it’s the silence that strikes me most. Save for the swash of sea and the cackle of gulls, the Écréhous are thrillingly, eerily quiet. No phones, no traffic, no music, no computers, no chatter, no voices. A liminal world, suspended halfway between sea and sky, but not entirely of either.

“The Ecrehous are special,” says Derek Hairon, whose company, Jersey Kayak Adventures, runs guided kayaking trips around the islands. “One minute you’re on Jersey, surrounded by 100,000 other people. Twenty minutes later, you’re paddling around an island where you’re the only one around

“I think it’s important for people to experience that sense of being surrounded by and lost in nature. It helps put things in perspective.”

Standing on La Marmotière’s wild beach, with only seabirds, seals and the odd passing dolphin for company, I know exactly what he means.

The Ecrehous Islands – Travel Essentials

Getting there

Blue Islands offer flights to Jersey from UK airports including Southampton, Bristol, Birmingham, Newcastle, Exeter and East Midlands. Condor Ferries operates a ferry service from Poole and Portsmouth.

Visiting there

Trips to the Ecrehous from St Catherine’s Breakwater with Jersey Seafaris are £55.99 for three hours, jerseyseafaris.com

Kayak trips around the Écréhous with Jersey Kayak Adventures are £180, including boat crossing, jerseykayakadventures.co.uk

Where to stay

The Moorings Hotel has rooms overlooking Gorey Harbour, three miles south of St Catherine’s Breakwater, from £125, themooringshotel.com

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