2013 dodge journey radiator fan not working

Dodge Journey:  Radiator Fan Not Working Diagnosis

Your Dodge Journey ‘s radiator fan has one of the most important jobs on the vehicle.  It is the last line of defense between you and an overheating engine.  If the radiator fan is not working , it’s a serious problem.

Just because the radiator fan is not on does not mean that it is not working.  They are designed to only run when needed.  If your Journey is running hot, and the fan is not running we’ve laid out the most common causes of this issue below.

Dodge Journey Radiator Fan Not Working Causes

There are a few simple reasons that the fan would not be cycling on.  Although the fan itself can go bad, that’s definitely not the place to start a diagnosis.

Here are the most common reasons that your radiator fan does not turn on:

Before poking your hands around your fan, make sure to treat it like it still could come on, and and keep your hands out of its path.

The first thing that you would want to do is locate the fuse for your Journey’s radiator fan and make sure that it hasn’t blown.  If it is blown, replacing the fuse will only solve the problem for a very limited period of time.  Unless the wiring issue is fixed, the fuse will blow again.

The wiring harness itself can go bad.  Your author has personally had a shredded tire completely pull the fan wiring out of his vehicle.  It can happen.  The fan wiring is some of the more vulnerable wiring in your Journey.

You can test the voltage going from the fan relay to the fan itself.  If it is getting 12+ volts, the fan should be coming on.  But if it’s not, which means the fan has gone bad.

This video from Ratchets and Wrenches is a phenomenal resource on how to properly diagnose a wiring problem.

Engine Temp Sensor

Your engine temperature sensor is responsible for relaying your engine temp to the ECU.  Once the temp gets so hot, the ECU commands the radiator fan to come on. If your Journey has a bad engine temp sensor the radiator fan won’t know to come on, because the ECU won’t know how hot the engine is.

You’ll need to locate and test the engine temp sensor .  Depending on the model year and engine, the location varies.  If it does end up being this sensor, they are very affordable .

Low Coolant

If the engine coolant level isn’t high enough to keep pressure in the engine it will run hot.  But, there won’t be enough coolant to reach the temperature sensor.  Without the coolant hitting the sensor, the temp reading will be significantly lower than the actual engine temp.  Your Journey’s radiator fan will not kick on.

If you do have low coolant, don’t fill it up until the engine has cooled off.  Adding coolant to a radiator dry enough not to trigger the engine temp sensor can cause problems from drastic temperature change.  Let it cool down first.

Like any other clutch, a fan clutch will wear out over time.  If everything else seems on the up and up, the springs in the fan clutch have worn past the point of proper function and can no longer do their job.

There are many reasons why your Dodge Journey’s radiator fan is not working.  Of all the ones listed above, start with the coolant level, then check the fuse.  After that, the order isn’t so important.  But, you don’t want to miss the easy fixes before you start testing wiring.  

If there is anything that you would like to add, please leave a comment below.  Good luck!!

Why Is My Radiator Fan Not Working?

• Updated: February 23, 2023

The radiator fan is a very important part of your car, and you’ve probably heard it spinning and working hard many times after driving on a hot summer day.

But if something goes wrong with the radiator fan, it can cause expensive damage to your engine if you’re not careful. That’s why it’s extra important to fix your radiator fan as soon as possible if it’s not working.

In this blog post, we will explain seven probable causes for a malfunctioning radiator fan, as well as how to fix it. We hope that this information will help you get your car back on the road safely and quickly. Let’s go!

What Can Cause A Radiator Fan To Stop Working?

The most common causes of why a radiator fan is not working are a blown fuse, a bad relay, or a broken wire. It can also be caused by a faulty coolant temp sensor, low coolant level or the fan itself can be damaged.

While these are some of the reasons, the list is not exhaustive. Here is a more detailed list of the most common causes of a radiator fan not coming on:

1. Blown Fuse

A fuse handles almost everything electrical in a car. If there is an electrical surge going toward a piece of electronic equipment, the fuse cuts off the power supply to that particular piece of equipment and saves it from destruction. This is what we call a blown fuse.

A broken fuse is no big deal, and replacing one doesn’t cost a lot of money. If your car’s radiator fan is not working, check your car’s owner’s manual and find the fuse for the radiator fan controller or the fan.

The fan itself often uses a large fuse of around 50A, while there may also be a separate small fuse for the fan control module. Remember that if the fan fuse has blown – there may be a problem with the cables or the radiator fan. Read further down in the article for diagnosis.

2. Faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor

There are two types of systems in different car models. Either your fan control is integrated into the motor control unit, or you have a separate fan control module. In both cases, the controllers use a temperature sensor to know when to start the radiator fan.

If this coolant temperature sensor is broken and won’t show the correct engine temperature, the control unit or fan control unit will not know when to start the radiator fan. Some cars use separate engine coolant temperature sensors for the radiator fan and the engine control unit.

READ MORE: 8 Symptoms of a Bad Coolant Temp Sensor (& Replacement Cost)

3. Insufficient Coolant

If your coolant level is low, there is a chance it is pushing air into the cooling system, and the coolant temperature sensor will not read the coolant temperature correctly. If the coolant level is low, you need to top up the coolant reservoir.

If you fail to do so, you could cause your engine to overheat , which could lead to a seized engine if you are unlucky. If your engine seizes due to overheating of coolant, it will destroy your engine and leave you with a very expensive repair cost, and is therefore something you want to be careful about.

RELATED: Low Engine Coolant Level? (Causes & Consequences)

4. Broken Radiator Fan

When your radiator fan is not working, it can actually be due to faulty radiator fans. The radiator fans have electric motors inside them that can wear out after a few years.

You can test the electric radiator fans by taking a lead from the car battery, unplugging the radiator fan connector and taking a fused 12v+ wire and ground wire into the connector. This is the fastest and easiest way to test your radiator fans. Be careful with your hands when the radiator fans start.

RELATED: 5 Symptoms of a Bad Radiator Fan (& Replacement Cost)

5. Faulty Fan Relay

Because the radiator fan often draws so much current, there is a relay that powers the radiator fan. Of course, this relay can get damaged, causing the radiator fan not to start.

The fan relay is often located in the engine compartment fuse box, but the best way is to check your repair manual to find out where it is located.

Testing a 4-pin relay is often very simple. Remove the relay and supply 12 volts to pins 30 and 85. Ground pin 86 and check for voltage coming out of pin 87. It is even better to connect pin 87 to something that draws a lot of currents, like the radiator fan, for example.

READ MORE: How to Test an Automotive Relay at Home (5 Easy Steps)

6. Bad Fan Controller Module

As discussed earlier, some cars have a separate control module specifically for the radiator fan control. This control module is often installed in the engine compartment, exposed to heat and dust. This can cause the control module to break after a while due to corrosion or other damage.

Locate the relay and check for any visual damage on the outside. You can often also open up the relay and check for any bad soldering or corrosion. Replace it if you see any problems.

7. Broken Wiring or Bad connection

If the radiator fan does not work even though your car is overheating, there may be wiring issues or a bad connection. Check the wires going to the radiator fan from the controller or relay. Check the connection plugs for signs of corrosion. Also, check the contacts on the relay and the control unit.

Measuring the wires with a multimeter is often not very effective because you have to stress test the wires to see if they work. As a quick test, however, you can check with a multimeter if power is coming to the radiator fan.

How To Fix A Radiator Fan Not Coming On

To fix a radiator fan that won’t start, you should begin by checking the fuses. You also want to make sure the coolant level is good. Then, you need to read the error codes with a scanner and measure the wires with a multimeter.

Here is more detailed information on how to fix a radiator fan that won’t start:

1. Check Fuses

The first thing you want to do when your radiator fan is not spinning is to check and replace the fuses . There will be a large fuse for the fan itself that you want to check. It will be between 30 and 50 amps, and it is usually a larger fuse located in the engine compartment. But to find the exact location of your car model, you need to check your owner’s manual.

There will also be one or smaller fuses for the radiator fan control module or relay in most car models. To find these fuses, you must again check the instruction manual for the location. These fuses can also be located inside the car.

If you find a blown fuse, you may want to inspect the wiring and try to figure out why the fuse blew. However, sometimes a blown fuse may just be a temporary problem.

RELATED: 5 Signs of a Bad Car AC Condenser Fan (& Replacement Cost)

2. Check Coolant Level

The next step you want to do is to check the coolant level. If the coolant is low, it can cause many different problems with the radiator fan.

Checking the coolant level is easy, just open the hood and locate the coolant reservoir. You will see a max sign on the reservoir and sometimes a min sign as well. Make sure the engine is cold and open the container carefully. Fill the container with antifreeze up to the maximum mark.

3. Unplug Coolant Temperature Sensor

Another way to determine if the coolant temperature sensor is the problem is to disconnect the sensor. In most car models, the radiator fan should start when the coolant temp sensor is disconnected, and the car is running.

But for this, you need to find out which of the coolant temperature sensors controls the radiator fan, as there may be a separate one for the engine control module and the radiator fan control. Also, disconnecting the engine control module coolant temperature sensor may result in a check engine light on your dash.

4. Check Trouble Codes

Modern cars use very high technology. When there is a problem, you almost always want to read the trouble codes from the control modules before doing anything else.

This is also a good idea if your radiator fan is not working. This is because in many car models, the radiator fan is controlled by the engine control module, and if your fan is not working, you’ll want to check if the ECM knows what the problem is.

For example, if the engine control module stores a trouble code on the coolant temperature sensor, it can also cause the radiator fan to malfunction. To read the fault codes, you need to use an OBD2 scanner . You can either buy one to use at home or go to an auto repair shop so they can read the codes for you.

5. Measure wirings

If you’ve tried all the things above but still can’t figure out what’s causing the radiator fan to not start, it’s time to start with some more advanced diagnostics. To find out what is wrong now, you need to use a multimeter and measure the wires with a radiator fan wiring diagram for your vehicle. This can be quite difficult if you have no knowledge of vehicle diagnostics, and you may want to skip to the next step.

Using a multimeter, you must first measure the power and ground wire coming to the radiator fan. If you have both power and ground to the fan when it starts, you need to replace the radiator fan. If you are getting no power, you need to move on to diagnosing the fan relay and find out why it won’t activate.

You can then try to bridge the radiator fan relay, and if the radiator fan starts when you do that, you know there is a problem with the relay control, like a bad coolant temperature sensor for example.

6. Talk to a professional

Fixing car problems on modern car models can be quite difficult due to all the electronics and sometimes it can be good to have a professional take a look at the car instead. Many professional mechanics have thousands of hours of training in automotive diagnostics and can quickly find problems like this.

Therefore, it doesn’t necessarily have to be more expensive to get the help of a mechanic instead of making a bad diagnosis and replacing the wrong parts all the time.

How do I know if my radiator fan fuse is bad?

The easiest and most accurate way to know if the radiator fuse is bad is to measure it with a multimeter. But in many cases, you can visually inspect it to see if the fuse wire inside it is burnt or not.

What sensor controls the radiator fan?

A coolant temperature sensor controls the radiator fan. In some car models, there is a separate CTS sensor for the radiator fan, but in most modern vehicles it is controlled by the coolant temp sensor used by the engine control unit.

How do I manually turn on my radiator fan?

There are two ways to turn on the radiator fan. On modern vehicles, you can turn it on with a diagnostic computer. On older car models, you can turn it on by bridging the radiator fan relay.

How do you fix a fan relay?

If you have a bad fan relay, it is almost always better to simply buy a new fan relay. Fan relays are often quite cheap and if you try to repair your old relay, there is a high risk that you will have the same problem in the near future.

Can I drive a car if the radiator fan is not working?

No, it is not recommended to drive without the radiator fan working. This can cause the engine to overheat, which can lead to permanent and expensive engine damage.

What happens if the radiator fan is not working?

If the radiator fan is not working, your car can overheat when the car is idling or driving at lower speeds. At higher speeds, the cooling system will still be cooled by the wind. However, an overheated engine can cause serious damage to your engine, so you don’t want to take the risk.

The radiator fan system is quite simple even in modern car models, and is therefore quite easy to diagnose. Often, when you have a problem with your radiator fan, it’s just something as simple as a blown fuse, a bad coolant temp sensor, or a bad relay causing it.

So now that you know the most common reasons, it’s time to start diagnosing! I hope you enjoyed this article, and with this information, you should now be able to figure out what is causing your radiator fan problems.

Learn more:

• Car Diagnostic – How to Troubleshoot Car Problems (Guide)
• 5 Symptoms of a Bad or Clogged Radiator
• 6 Symptoms of a Bad Radiator Cap 

Categories: Electric , Troubleshooting

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• Maintenance & D.Y.I.

Radiator fan low speed not working?

By Jurnietow May 11, 2017 in Maintenance & D.Y.I.

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I noticed that my radiator  fan behavior seems a little odd.  It took some front end damage from a deer strike last fall, which was repaired at the dealer, and now that it has started to warm up I noticed the radiator fan does not turn on when the AC is switched on.  I don't know if it's supposed to as I never paid attention to it before. It only operates at high speed when the engine temperature hits 230F and shuts off when it reaches about 215F.  It's my understanding that the fan should always come on when the AC is engaged, and the low speed should come on at a lower engine  temperature than the high speed. 

I have already replaced the thermostat as I got a P0128 code.  It appears to be working normally now.  I also replaced the Engine   Coolant  Temperature sensor while I was at it.

This car does not appear to have a radiator  fan relay, but I did notice the radiator  fan resistor is in a location where it might have been impacted by the radiator when I hit the deer.  It is possible that this was overlooked when the damage was repaired. Can a faulty radiator  fan resistor cause this behavior?  Can anyone with knowledge or a service manual  confirm that this behavior is abnormal? Thanks.  

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It could definitely cause the behavior. I would go have it looked at, if it is only running the high speed fan that means that it is becoming the sole speed that the engine  is relying on to cool everything down. In most cases the low speed fan would engage first, and then in cases of excessive temperatures the high speed would turn on. When it was repaired the work and parts should have come with a warranty so I would bring it up with the repair shop. 

Thanks for the reply.  Any chance I could get you to see how you fan behaves with the ac engaged while parked and report back to me?  

I did find some low and high radiator  fan relays in the fuse block.  They are the same so I swapped them.  The behavior is still the same, so I can eliminate a faulty relay. I also pulled the resistor and inspected it.  There are possibly some small cracks in the green ceramic insulator, but they are slight enough that I think they could have been there since new.

• 11 months later...

Dodgejourneyluvr

I'm having the same issue where the fan  is only kicking on at 230.  Was there a resolution here?

• Official Dodge Support

On 5/1/2018 at 8:47 AM, Dodgejourneyluvr said: I'm having the same issue where the fan  is only kicking on at 230.  Was there a resolution here?

Hello Dodgejourneyluvr,

We apologize for the inconvenience you're experiencing with your fan. I understand your desire to get advice from the forum members but if you decide to get this looked at by the dealer, let us know. We'd be glad to get this escalated to a Case Specialist for further handling.

Dodge Social Care Specialist

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Radiator fans not activating when A/C is on

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Changed the relay under the headlight and no change.Cooling fans cycle correctly to keep engine at normal temp but when the a/c is turned on they are not activating as they should (fan should run constantly while a/c is on),compressor runs air blows cold. 1999 Grand Caravan 3.3l auto with front and rear a/c. Any ideas or areas I should check first?  

. . . relay for engine cooling fan Diagnose Engine Cooling Fan Relay Problem Copyright AA1Car Engine overheating or poor air conditioning performance can be caused by an engine or A/C condenser cooling fan that fails to come on. In many cases, the underlying fault is a bad cooling fan relay. The quickest way to tell whether or not the electric fan(s) are working is to start the engine, let it reach normal operating temperature and then turn the A/C on. The cooling fan in the engine compartment should turn on to pull air through the radiator and A/C condenser. On many vehicles, there may be two fans: a main cooling fan for the radiator, and a second fan for the condenser. Both fans should come on when the A/C is on. If one or both fans fail to come on, the lack of additional cooling provided by the fan may cause poor A/C cooling performance, and it may cause the A/C compressor to overheat and fail. The engine may also run hot and overheat, too. Problems in the Cooling Fan Circuit The typical electric cooling fan circuit includes a temperature sensor, a relay, a control module and the fan motor. The relay is the component that fails most often, so be sure to test the relay as well as its power supply and ground connections. A good relay coil will typically read 40 to 80 ohms. If resistance is high, the coil may still be working but it is failing, or it may not work when electrical loads are high. If the coil has no resistance, it is open and has failed. Replace the relay. Another simple relay test is to shake it. If you hear something rattling inside, the relay armature is probably broken. Types of Electric Cooling Fan Relays There are three basic types of relays: Normally open are the most common type. The armature closes when the coil is energized to route power to the fan motor. Normally closed. The armature is normally closed and is pulled open when energized. Dual relay. This type conducts current when open and when closed in two different circuits. Some Vehicles with Cooling Fan Problems Chrysler minivans (late 1980s and early 1990s). These use a solid state relay for the cooling fans, and the relays tend to overheat and fail. Chrysler Neon. The problem here is the cooling fan circuit uses a radio frequency filter mounted on radiator fan shroud. The filter is mounted in a hot area and tends to fail, preventing the cooling fan from operating. On most Chrysler vehicles, the cooling fan relay must be engaged before power can go to the A/C clutch. If the fan relay has failed, it will prevent the compressor clutch from engaging and there will be no cooling. Ford cooling fan controllers (late 1980s and early 1990s Mustangs and other models). The controller contains a fan primary relay, A/C fan control relay, and wide open throttle cutout all built into one unit. The controller is supposed to switch on both fans when the compressor clutch is engaged. The problem is the two fan motors pull so much amperage that they rob voltage from the clutch. Consequently, the compressor clutch may only get 9.8 volts instead of full battery voltage causing it to slip, overheat and fail. The cure here is to add a separate relay for the compressor clutch so the clutch can draw full voltage from the battery. Ford integrated relay control module (IRCM) (introduced in 1986). This unit controls the both fan relays, compressor clutch relay and the fuel pump relay. The module is mounted on the radiator shroud and is exposed to a lot of heat so failures are common. One symptom here of a failed module is a car that cranks but won't start because the fuel pump isn't getting any power through its relay. A failed module may also prevent one or both fans from operating, or the compressor clutch from engaging. The IRCM module also provides two-speed (high and low) fan operation by using an internal resistor to drop voltage to the fans. This resistor often burns up and fails. If any of the subsystems inside the IRCM module have failed, the whole module must be replaced. Chrysler LH cars (since early 1990s). These vehicles use two relays (low fan and high fan), and two fans. Three fuses in the power distribution box protect these circuits. The engine control module provides ground to the fan relays when cooling is needed, and a dropping resistor is located inside each fan motor for two-speed operation (that's why each motor has two power input terminals but only one ground terminal). At 238 degrees F, the fan relay switches power from the low-speed circuit to the high-speed circuit to increase cooling. If this relay fails (which it often does because of the load it carries), the fan may operate at high speed but not low speed. Other inputs that can affect when the fan relays are energized include engine temperature, transmission temperature, intake air temperature and A/C operating pressure. On this vehicle, you should use a scan tool to see which of these inputs is energizing the fans and when. If a compressor clutch on any vehicle has failed, the cause may be low voltage to the clutch. Low voltage allows the clutch to slip, which creates excessive friction and heat. Use a voltmeter to measure voltage to the clutch. If it is not within 0.2 volts of battery voltage, other components in the circuit may be stealing power from the clutch. The cure may be to require the clutch circuit by adding a new relay so the clutch can have its own dedicated power circuit.  

Because the fans spin with engine temp rise I would suspect something in the A/C pressure switch circuit.  

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2013 RT HD cooling fan not working

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I’ve replaced the fan with aftermarket assembly. Rebuilt tipm and new battery fuse block because I blew the 150 fuse. Fan still not coming on. Any suggestions?  

Brob13 said: I’ve replaced the fan with aftermarket assembly. Rebuilt tipm and new battery fuse block because I blew the 150 fuse. Fan still not coming on. Any suggestions? Mileage: 97081 Click to expand...

Starting with the basics... Have you confirmed that there's power before and after the fuse block after replacing the 150 fuse?  

Yes I have  

Why did you replace the fan with aftermarket? Do you still have the old fan? Does it work.  

I still have the old fan and I replaced it because check engine light came on and the code was to replace the cooling fan. Plus i was idling and it started overheating  

So idling + overheating is not normal. Sounds like there's a lot more than just the fan issue going on.  

Shadash: Brob has a 2nd thread running on this issue. This one is in the correct section, but the other one has activity also. You might check it. I'll stop answering there, and move here since this is the proper place. Don  

Do you believe the original fan is still operable? I still have it  

Yes I do  

What code did you pull? Never seen a code say to specifically replace a part..  

• Engine Coolant Temperature
• Transmission Oil Temperature
• A/C System Pressure

Who the hell wrote that with Cicuit in it twice?  

When these big fuses blow, many times folks have reversed jumper cables when attempting to jump. I agree there has to be something in the mix that is being overlooked. Don  

Don Fox said: When these big fuses blow, many times folks have reversed jumper cables when attempting to jump. I agree there has to be something in the mix that is being overlooked. Don Click to expand...

Question, which red battery cable goes to the 150 and 100 fuse? I have a small one and a larger one.  

Just noticed the 30amp fuse is apparently not used...that sure would come in handy for those need a high current power source for either an intercooler pump or even an air compressor/air horn setup (provided current draw is less than the 30A fuse).  

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Fan does not kick in when AC turned on - only turns on with engine heat

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Well, it's summer, and the same problem has become a major issue. We have an 08 Grand Caravan SXT with 3.8L engine. When the AC is switched on, the compressor clicks on. HOWEVER, the radiator fan does not turn on with the compressor. The rad fan only comes on when the engine gets hot, and it works well to keep the engine temps down. HOWEVER, it is only one speed (a low speed). When I disconnected the coolant temp sensor and started the engine, the fan came on immediately, and at high speed. It came on even though I didn't have the AC on. What does this all mean? Is it a faulty coolant temperature sensor? Or is there a relay activated by the compressor that has failed. Appreciate any help.  

you are very limited to testing components The dealer scan tool has more thorough diagnostics (Perform the BODY VERIFICATION TEST is a big one) The fans are computer controlled and many different components are in play. Electrical diagrams are in my stickie http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/95545-free-electrical-diagrams  

Thanks for the link and the response. I have two other questions that I hope you might be able to answer. BTW, I swapped out the high speed fan relay (by the top driver's side corner of the radiator) with a known good 5-terminal relay, and it did not make any difference. 1) Can you tell me what is the significance of the high speed fan coming on when I disconnected the coolant temp sensor? I saw this in another thread. 2) This problem existed last year, but the AC always was cold. However, this year, I have been having to recharge the system, so I suspect a leak. I saw on another thread that there is a common problem to these vans about a hose that leaked, and was redesigned and replaced by the dealership. Was this a recall? Thanks.  

Hi baloo, You can visit our Mopar Owner Connect website and enter your VIN to see if there are any open recalls for your particular vehicle. https://www.moparownerconnect.com/oc/us/en-us/sub/Pages/RecallsQuery.aspx . If you have any additional questions, please feel free to PM me!  

Any progress? Our '08 van with dual zone A/C has the same issue. Yesterday it was 90F outside. I started the van and drove the first 15 minutes or so in city traffic, more stop than go, and not above 20mph when going. A meat thermometer in the front vent read 70F. That was even after setting the A/C to recirculate mode. The engine temperature gauge warmed up and got to center position, then stays there. I don't hear the engine fan turn on. Then on to the highway, 65mph, and the vent thermometer quickly cools to 50F over maybe 1 minute, then slowly cools to 40F over the next 5 minutes. If I stop in traffic, the vent starts to warm up. If I idle the van in my driveway, eventually the engine fan does cycle on and off. The fan works fine. I separately checked the fan relay, it's functional. The engine fan needs to come on to remove heat from the A/C condensor, but it doesn't come on. With good A/C condensor cooling on the highway, the A/C functions ok. In city driving with little to no air flow over the A/C condensor, it's miserable. What to check? Wiring, a sensor, a module, Toyota, ... ?  

On some cars the fan will only come on when the AC compressor pressure builds up to a certain level. That said, you just may be low on freon. Check pressure.  

Thanks for the suggestion. I have a shop manual for the van, will look for a pressure sensor and how to test it. Earlier in the summer I did attach an external pressure gauge and the A/C was operating normally. I don't recall the pressure numbers I was getting, but the gauge was swinging in a sensible range.  

how do you register  

Have a 2015 caravan with this exact issue, did anyone actually find a solution?  

I recommend you start a thread and carefully explain what your exact problem is. For example, what the OP describes is normal operation.  

Having no airflow over the condenser when the AC compressor is engaged and on the coldest setting possible is not normal operation.  

As long as the AC performs normally and the coolant temp stays in the normal range, the high speed fan operation is not necessarily required and just because the high speed fan doesn't kick on the moment AC is turned on, doesn't mean something is broken. If the AC performance in stop&go traffic suffers, and the fan doesn't kick on, the system may be low on refrigerant. Looking at the chart posted by ted928, the high speed fan operation is linked to AC system high pressure, a low refrigerant level may lower that pressure to the point when it doesn't reach the trigger point.  

What triggers radiator fan? Runs too often

It turned out to be low on gas i emptied and refilled it since i have a recovery tank i bought cause i was tired of the shops charging me 350 bucks every time just to change the valves and refill the system and to find out it was still leaking i change all the valves around the kit its not expensive at all at oreilleys so at the end it was missing 12 ounces still dont see the fan run as fast as the one in my other cars it runs slightly faster but not as fast may be its designed that way. Now it blows cold on traffic too.  

This and a couple of forums helped. 2018 Dodge Grand Caravan GT. My issue was A/C blows cold while driving interstate, warms up increasingly when in traffic and at stop lights, and the radiator fan will not go to high speed, it does operate low speed which is not enough for proper A/C operation. I jumped the high speed relay and the fan does go into high speed. Swapped relays in the TIPM, no change. Checked that there was voltage from the pressure sensor and ran the engine with it disconnected and it ran high and started to cool. The module that is in the fan, basically a large resistor to me measured good, and with the relay jump I did it should have been good. The next step was to see what the high side pressure was at. Having no gauge for that I took it to a local A/C repair shop. The system was very low as it had vented through a safety port when the vehicle was not getting the air flow needed. The shop had also stated that large resistor in the fan module was bad. New resistor and they evacuated the entire system and refilled it. All good now. It might have been possible to charge using a can on the low side, however, after reading that it is an inaccurate way to do it and that a small amount of moisture will make it into the system I decided instead to have a shop with the right equipment for proper recharging.  

High speed fan is 12 to 14 volts direct to fan via relay on fender next to radiator (relay closed by pcm) Low speed is via resistor (the green coil on the shroud) thus about 1/2 voltage is to resistor in series with fan Low speed controlled by relay in Tipm which is also controlled by pcm the low speed relay is smaller as it only Carries about 1/2 the current that the high speed relay does (since on low-speed resistor in series with fan is about about twice resistance of fan alone)  

Based on other posts, my troubleshooting and having a shop recharge the system and Turbo84, I must have a leak somewhere. A slow one that once the high pressure side never rose up enough for the pressure transducer to send a signal to the relay to turn on the fan, I then started to feel the heat. We shall see how long it holds and next visit will have leak found. I understand most likely at any connection point or valve. Thanks.  

If it has a three zone climate control, then it is most likely leaking from the rear expansion valve.  

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Home » Troubleshooting » Dodge Journey heater not working – causes and diagnosis

Dodge Journey heater not working – causes and diagnosis

The heater in Dodge Journey ensures comfortable temperature in the passenger compartment when the weather is chilly. There are many reasons for poor heating performance in Journey, which are explained in this article.

The heater may stop working in Dodge Journey due to low coolant level or air in the cooling system, clogged heater core, bad thermostat, faulty blend door actuator, bad water pump, dirty cabin air filter, bad blower motor, or HVAC control unit malfunction.

1. Low coolant or air in the cooling system

Low coolant level or air in the cooling system can cause the heater to stop working properly in Journey. If the cooling system is not full and bled properly, the water pump will not be able to push the coolant around the system efficiently.

The heating system in Journey uses hot coolant or antifreeze from the engine block to heat the interior of the vehicle. The hot coolant is pumped through the heater core located behind the dashboard. When you turn on the heating, air gets blown through the heater core, warming the air in the cabin. If there is air trapped inside the heater core, the coolant will not be able to flow through it properly. Since the heater core is usually slightly higher, the air will accumulate in there first. By filling and properly bleeding the system the heat should come back.

Sloshing water sound

Low coolant level or air in the heater core can sometimes cause sloshing sound from behind the dashboard when the engine is running. The sound is most prominent right after you start the vehicle.

Check coolant level

Checking coolant level in Journey is a fairly some job. You just have to locate the coolant overflow reservoir and inspect the level of coolant in it. If the coolant level is low, open the cap and pour some coolant into the tank until it is between minimum and maximum mark.

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2. Clogged heater core

Clogged heater core is one of the leading causes of heating not working in Dodge Journey. The design of the heater core is similar to the radiator, it has narrow internal channels through which hot coolant flows. Over time, the heater core can begin to rust or mineral deposits can form in these channels, blocking the flow of the coolant.

How to check if the heater core is clogged

You don’t have to remove the heater core in your Journey to check if it is clogged. Locate two rubber hoses that connect to the heater core through the firewall area. Feel both the rubber lines going in and out of the heater core after the engine has warmed up. Both should be hot. If one is hot and the other is cold, you have a plugged heater core.

Flush the heater core

Before you consider replacing the heater core in your Journey, it is recommended to flush the existing heater core. Flushing is done by pushing water through the outlet hose of the heater core and draining the gunk from the inlet hose. There are flush kits available in the market that can help you do the job yourself.

3. Bad thermostat

Thermostat is a part of the cooling system in Dodge Journey which ensures that the engine reaches its optimal operating temperature as quickly as possible and maintain it under all operating conditions.

Thermostat is stuck open

When you start your Journey when the engine is cold, the thermostat cuts off flow of coolant through the radiator in order to quickly reach the optimal engine operating temperature. But if the thermostat has developed a defect and is stuck to open position, the coolant will continuously flow through the radiator and the engine may take a long time to reach its optimal operating temperature.

Heater takes a long time to blow hot air

Since the heating system in Journey relies on the hot coolant from the engine to heat the interior, the heater will blow cold air until the engine reaches its normal operating temperature. But if the weather is too cold, the engine may never reach its optimal operating temperature with a stuck open thermostat. Your vehicle may also consume more fuel than normal.

5. Bad water pump

The water pump is the heart of the cooling system in Journey responsible for pumping coolant throughout the system and cooling the engine. If the water pump has worn out and the coolant is not being circulated as effectively as it used to, it can cause the heater to stop working properly because there’s less coolant available to transfer heat between the engine and the heater core.

Water pumps usually last for more than 100,000 miles, but they can fail at any time. A bad water pump will not only cause poor heating, but can also result in engine damage due to overheating. Therefore it is important to diagnose a failing water pump at early stages to avoid expensive repairs later on.

6. Faulty blend door actuator

Blend door actuator plays a role in controlling the temperature inside your Journey. If the blend door actuator fails to fully open the blend door towards the heater core, it will result in poor heating performance.

The most common symptom of a faulty blend door actuator in Dodge Journey is a slight clicking sound (or other unusual noise) repeatedly coming from under the dashboard. The sound will be most prominent for a few seconds when you turn on the air conditioning or adjust the temperature.

Symptom: knocking sound

A knocking noise from behind the dashboard could be an indicator of a bad blend door actuator in your Journey. The sound is something like a light tapping on the door and it typically happens when you turn on/off the air conditioning system or start the engine.

Symptom: creaking sound

One side hot, other side cold.

A common symptom of a faulty blend door actuator in vehicles with dual zone climate control system is one side blowing hot air while the other side is blowing cold air.

Replace the faulty part

A bad blend door actuator usually cannot be repaired and must be replaced with a new one. Due to the complexity of the replacement job, it is not recommended as a DIY project. The blend door actuator may require recalibration after replacement.

7. Dirty cabin air filter

Dirty cabin air filter is the leading cause of weak heater airflow in Dodge Journey. The pollen filter, also known as the cabin air filter or microfilter, is responsible for filtering the air that the passengers breathe in the cabin. A dirty filter causes the overall ventilation of the interior to deteriorate resulting in reduced heating and airflow.

There is no fixed time for replacing the cabin air filter, but most manufacturers recommend a change after 10,000-20,000 miles. If you drive your vehicle in dusty or polluted environment, the filter can get dirty much sooner than manufacturer’s recommendation. Additionally, if you drive your Journey with AC system set to fresh outside air most of the time, your cabin air filter will get dirty much sooner as compared to air recirculation mode.

Replace the filter at the start of every winter for optimal performance

It is generally recommended to replace the cabin air filter every year at the start of the winter season. Spring and summer seasons are hard on the cabin air filter because of pollen and bugs, and in the fall they can get clogged with leaf debris. This gives you a fresh start for the winter, improves defroster performance, and reduces chances of mold or mildew growth.

Can you clean a dirty cabin air filter?

Instead of changing the cabin air filter in Journey, it is often recommended to first clean the filter. This can be done, for example, with a vacuum cleaner or a compressed air system, removing at least a large part of the visible dirt particles. Unfortunately, this procedure does not allow you to get into the deeper layers of the filter. Therefore, the filter performance will not increase significantly even after cleaning. As a rule, there is no avoiding a change if the filter is dirty.

8. Sluggish blower motor

If the blower motor in your Journey is not spinning fast enough either due to an internal defect or due to a fault in the resistor/control module, the airflow from the AC vents will be weaker and the heating performance will be degraded.

When a blower motor goes bad, it usually makes unusual noises when in operation, and the passengers may feel reduced airflow from the air vents. Keep in mind that reduced airflow doesn’t always indicate a problem with the blower motor, as it can also happen due to a clogged cabin air filter, dirty evaporator, or a bad mode door actuator. So, all of them must be inspected when diagnosing poor airflow.

9. Dead blower motor (no airflow)

If there is no air flow from the air vents in the dashboard when you turn on the heater in your Dodge Journey, it means the problem is related to the fan or blower motor function.

The most common causes for blower motor not working in Dodge Journey are blown fuse, bad relay, resistor or control module malfunction, and faulty blower motor. However, a bad electrical connector or broken wire, or a defect in the climate control unit can also cause the blower motor to stop working.

10. Dirty evaporator

Dirty evaporator can cause weak airflow and reduce the heating performance in Journey. Although, the evaporator coil is a component of the cooling function of the air-conditioning system, but the air always first passes through the evaporator and then flows over the heater core.

The cabin air filter captures most of the dirt or other airborne particles, but some particles escape and can get lodged on to the evaporator. Over time, these particles build up on the fins and block the air flow through the evaporator, causing reduced air flow in the cabin and poor heating or cooling.

Function of the evaporator in heating mode

When the heater is turned on and the AC turned off, the compressor does not turn on and the evaporator is not cooled. When you press the AC button in heating mode, the compressor turns on and the evaporator cools and dries the air before it enters the heater core. This mode is useful for clearing fog from the windows.

11. Faulty HVAC module

Climate control module is the brain of the air-conditioning system in your Dodge Journey, responsible for controlling all the components in the system. In rare cases, a fault in the climate control unit can cause the heater to stop functioning. This would require a scan tool to confirm correct operation.

12. Blown head gasket

The head gasket is responsible for providing the seal between the engine block and cylinder heads. Its purpose is to seal the combustion gases within the cylinders and to avoid coolant or engine oil leaking into the cylinders. Leaks in the head gasket can cause all sorts of problems in your Journey including poor heater performance. This is mostly common in older vehicles.

Leaking exhaust gases

A blown head gasket can cause the exhaust gases from the engine to enter the cooling system and plug the heater core. Clearing the air from the heater core will not help until the head gasket has been replaced.

Leaking coolant

A blown head gasket can cause coolant to leak into the combustion chambers and burn off. If your Journey is losing coolant, that means there is a leak somewhere or it is getting burned up inside the engine.

How to check if head gasket is leaking in Journey?

You don’t have to go to a workshop to check for a leaking head gasket in your Journey. There are test kits available in the market in which you just have to insert a tube filled with colored liquid in the radiator (in place of the radiator cap), and then start the engine. If the liquid changes color, then there is a leak in head gasket.

Switch on air recirculation mode

When the outside temperature drops too low, the heating performance may be reduced in Journey if the air conditioning system is set to outside air. To improve heating efficiency, it is recommended to switch on air recirculation mode. Don’t worry, there is no risk of suffocation, as the air recirculation mode still allows up to approximately 10 percent of the air coming from the air vents to be fresh air from the outside.

There are many reasons why the heater in your Dodge Journey is not working properly. When looking for the reason, you should start with the most obvious causes: low coolant level or air in the cooling system, and clogged heater core.

In any case, it is advisable for laypersons to visit a workshop. A professional mechanic can swiftly diagnose the heating issue for you.

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3.6L Pentastar V6 — Cooling System Issues Explained

The 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine has garnered widespread popularity across various vehicles, known for its impressive performance and reliability . However, like any other engine, the Pentastar V6 is not exempt from potential issues, particularly in its cooling system. 

A properly functioning cooling system is crucial for maintaining optimal engine temperature and preventing overheating, which can lead to severe damage. Join us as we go over the main reasons of 3.6L Pentastar V6 cooling system failure, and how to fix it.

Understanding the Cooling System

The cooling system in any vehicle plays a vital role in maintaining optimal engine temperature, ensuring efficient performance, and preventing damage. The 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine’s cooling system is no exception. Let’s take a closer look at its components and how they work together.

The radiator serves as the heat exchanger, dissipating the heat generated by the engine . It consists of a series of small tubes and fins that allow coolant to flow through and release heat into the surrounding air.

The water pump is responsible for circulating coolant throughout the engine and the radiator. It ensures that coolant flows consistently, promoting efficient heat transfer.

The thermostat acts as a valve that regulates the flow of coolant. It remains closed when the engine is cold, allowing it to warm up quickly. Once the engine reaches the optimal temperature, the thermostat opens, enabling the coolant to flow and maintain a stable temperature .

The cooling system utilizes various hoses to transport coolant between the engine, radiator, water pump, and other components. These hoses should be in good condition to prevent leaks and ensure proper coolant circulation.

Coolant, also known as antifreeze, is a mixture of water and additives that help regulate engine temperature. It absorbs heat from the engine and transfers it to the radiator for dissipation. Coolant also contains rust inhibitors and lubricants to protect the cooling system from corrosion and reduce friction.

Common 3.6L Pentastar V6 Cooling System Issues

The Dodge/Chrysler 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine, like any other engine, can experience cooling system issues that require attention. Here are some of the common problems that owners may encounter:

• Overheating — One of the primary concerns is engine overheating. This can be caused by various factors, such as coolant leaks, a malfunctioning thermostat, a failing water pump , or a blocked radiator. When the engine overheats, it can lead to significant damage and potential engine failure if not addressed promptly.
• Coolant Leaks — Coolant leaks can occur due to deteriorated hoses, a damaged radiator, a faulty water pump, or loose connections. Leaks not only result in a loss of coolant but can also lead to inadequate cooling system performance and overheating.
• Radiator Problems — Issues with the radiator, such as damage from debris or road contaminants, can impede proper heat dissipation. Clogging due to sediment buildup or a damaged radiator fan can also affect cooling efficiency.
• Hoses and Belts — The cooling system relies on hoses and belts to transport coolant between components. Over time, hoses can deteriorate, develop cracks, or become loose, leading to leaks or restricted coolant flow. Worn-out or damaged belts may affect the functioning of the water pump, impeding coolant circulation.

Identifying these common cooling system issues is crucial for timely intervention and prevention of further damage. In the next section, we will explore the symptoms and warning signs that can help vehicle owners detect cooling system issues in their 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine.

What Causes These Issues?

Sand. When FCA first designed these engines, they’ve used a sand casting method to fabricate various parts of the engine. As it turns out, some of that sand was never removed before assembly , and was stuck in coolant passages in the head/block. 

Over time, this sand would dislodge and move around the cooling system, causing sludging issues as well as other problems. This is why frequent coolant flushes are a must for any Dodge, Jeep or Chrysler vehicle with this engine. 

Symptoms and Warning Signs

Detecting cooling system issues in the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine early on is vital to prevent further damage. Here are some symptoms and warning signs that may indicate cooling system problems:

Engine Overheating — If you notice the temperature gauge consistently reaching high levels or the engine’s temperature warning light illuminating, it indicates possible cooling system issues.

Coolant Odor or Leaks — A sweet smell of coolant inside or outside the vehicle, along with visible coolant leaks beneath the engine or radiator, suggests a problem that needs attention.

Fluctuating Temperature Gauge — If the temperature gauge shows irregular fluctuations, with sudden rises and falls, it could indicate a malfunctioning thermostat or cooling system irregularities.

Dashboard Warning Lights — Pay attention to any dashboard warning lights related to the engine or cooling system, such as the coolant temperature warning light. These lights serve as important indicators of potential issues.

Steam or Smoke — If you observe steam or smoke rising from the engine compartment, it may signify an overheating engine and the need to address cooling system problems promptly.

Unusual Engine Behavior — Any unusual engine behavior, such as rough idling, loss of power, or an increase in engine noise, could be attributed to cooling system issues affecting overall engine performance.

Low Coolant Level — Regularly check the coolant level in the coolant reservoir . A significant decrease in coolant level without any apparent leaks may suggest a cooling system problem.

It’s essential to be proactive and address these symptoms and warning signs promptly. Ignoring them could lead to more severe engine damage and costly repairs. In the next section, we will explore troubleshooting steps and maintenance practices to mitigate cooling system issues in the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine.

Troubleshooting and Maintenance

When encountering cooling system issues with the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine, it’s crucial to troubleshoot the problem effectively and perform regular maintenance to prevent future issues. Here are some steps you can take:

Coolant Inspection — Check the coolant level and condition regularly. If the level is low, inspect for leaks and address them promptly. Ensure that the coolant is clean and free of debris.

Thermostat Testing — A malfunctioning thermostat can lead to overheating issues. Consider testing or replacing the thermostat if you suspect it’s not functioning correctly. We suggest using an OE Mopar or FCA part when replacing the thermostat. 

Radiator Inspection — Examine the radiator for damage, leaks, or clogs caused by debris. Clean the radiator fins and ensure proper airflow. If necessary, have a professional pressure test the radiator for any internal leaks.

Hose and Belt Examination — Inspect the hoses and belts for signs of wear, cracks, or leaks. Replace any damaged components and ensure proper connections and tension.

Water Pump Evaluation — Check the water pump for leaks or abnormal noises. If there are signs of damage or malfunction, consider replacing the water pump.

Flushing the Cooling System — Regularly flush the cooling system to remove accumulated debris, rust, or contaminants. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the appropriate coolant flush interval.

Regular maintenance and addressing cooling system issues promptly can help maintain the performance and longevity of the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine. In the next section, we will discuss preventive measures to minimize the occurrence of cooling system problems in your vehicle.

Preventive Measures

Preventing cooling system issues in the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine is key to ensuring its long-term performance and reliability. Here are some preventive measures to consider:

Follow Maintenance Schedule — Adhere to the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule for coolant replacement, system inspections, and overall engine maintenance. Regular servicing can help identify and address potential cooling system issues before they become major problems.

Maintain Proper Coolant Levels — Monitor the engine coolant level regularly and ensure it’s within the recommended range. Top up coolant as needed with the appropriate type and mixture specified by the manufacturer.

Inspect Hoses and Belts — Regularly inspect the cooling system hoses and belts for signs of wear, leaks, or cracks. Replace any damaged components promptly to maintain proper coolant circulation.

Use High-Quality Coolant — Choose high-quality coolant that meets the specifications outlined in the owner’s manual. The correct coolant mixture can help prevent corrosion, enhance heat transfer, and extend the life of the cooling system components.

Avoid Extreme Driving Conditions — Minimize subjecting your vehicle to extreme driving conditions, such as prolonged idling, heavy towing, or driving in extreme heat. These conditions put additional stress on the cooling system and can increase the risk of overheating.

Monitor Temperature Gauge and Warning Lights — Pay attention to the temperature gauge and any warning lights related to the cooling system. If you notice any unusual readings or warning indicators, take immediate action to prevent potential damage.

Maintain Clean Radiator and Cooling Fins — Keep the radiator and cooling fins clean from debris, bugs, and dirt. Regularly inspect and clean these components to ensure efficient heat dissipation.

By implementing these preventive measures, you can significantly reduce the likelihood of cooling system issues in your 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine. Regular maintenance and attentive care will help keep your engine running smoothly.

Keep Your 3.6L Pentastar V6 Engine Cool with Newparts.com

The cooling system is an integral part of the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine, and understanding its common issues is crucial for maintaining optimal performance. By being aware of symptoms and warning signs, troubleshooting problems, and practicing regular maintenance, you can mitigate cooling system issues and ensure the longevity of your Pentastar-powered vehicle. 

If something eventually fails on your 3.6L Pentastar V6, we have you covered. Here at Newparts.com, we offer one of the largest catalogs on parts for this engine and other Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep engines.

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Radiator fan not working

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I got a 2013 srt8 . Radiator fan Works when Ac is on but not went up to temperature I replace the The thermostat and temp Sensor. And all fuses I’m at my I’m at my wits end . This just all of a sudden happened. Can’t find any answers if Anybody Experience this problem please help .  

Chilton Repair Manual Access

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• Single fan.pdf 27.5 KB Views: 1,191

I have two fans . They work wen the ac is on but don’t cut on wen the temperature is at operating mode . It starts to overheat .  

With another car, not a Dodge, the radiator fans low speed was courtesy of a ballast resistor in the fan wiring which caused the fan to run at I think half its regular speed. When the fan no longer ran at low speed -- but ran when the A/C was on or when the coolant temperature got to the high speed fan threshold -- the problem was this ballast resistor had failed. They run hot and in this car they were mounted in the path of the air flow through the radiator/fan which while "hot" still kept the resistor from getting way too hot. And very important it kept the resistor from getting splashed with water. The tech told me the resistor if hot and splashed with water can suffer degradation. The tech replaced the short length of wiring which had the ballast resistor in it and the fan's low speed operation was restored. I wonder if what you take for overheating sign is just the coolant temperature getting up to where you probably never see it because the fans would be on and thus limit the temperature rise? With another car I have observed the coolant temperature climbing to 226F which is 10F above the threshold the fans switch to high speed operation. The coolant temperature was elevated because I was driving the car in 116F ambient temperature. While I know the coolant temperature gauge in the dash is a crude instrument the needle swing over to the right into a region I had never seen it in before. Based on the hash marks the coolant temperature appeared to be at nearly 250F. Even so the engine was fine showed no signs of overheating. After I got home I spoke to the service manager at the dealer giving him the details. He admitted he don't know the answers but contacted the factory about this and the factory came back with something like as long as there were no warning lights/messages there was no overheating. Essentially the coolant temperature gauge is just mainly for show. I know a couple of times with my Hellcat while the coolant gauge needle hangs down around the 170 mark -- this even though the coolant temperature is around the 200F level -- that as the coolant temperature goes higher the needle comes up quite a bit. This can appear to be overheating sign but with the benefit of the actual coolant temperature display I know the coolant temperature is only in the 216F region and this is I believe the point at which the radiator fans turn on for I then see the coolant temperature drop to 208F which is apparently the temperature the radiator fans shut off. Back to your car: If you let the temperature go higher the fans would (should) come on high speed and bring the temperature down. You know they work with the A/C on. 'course, I'm not advocating you do this. All I can offer is you obviously need to get the fans working at low speed and well, all I have is ballast resistor thing to offer as a possible failure mode, if ballast resistor in the fan electrical ciruit is even a thing in these Dodge cars.  

I think I found the problem. I think it’s the wire Harness . It has a resistant in connection at the top of the radiator . I have to get the cooling fan wire harness . It’s about 100 bucks . Item number # 68050137AB .  

Hello could you by chance tell me if changing the wire harness worked? I am having the same issue. Thanks  

Yup it can be the only thing wrong . Like I said both fans work with the ac on . But neither come on wen the car reaches The operation temperature . So they only work with ac . Hopefully this fixes it . And hopefully this can help someone else with this same problem.  

Did that fix the issue? I'm having the same problem.  

ChallyTatum said: Lol, forget what I said about the resistor, I kept thinking you had a single fan. The mopar giant site showed a single fan initially but when I did the fit check for the dual fan it said that was the correct fan module which caused my confusion. I don't think the dual fan setup uses a resistor but instead runs the fans in series (low fan speed) or parallel (one fan runs full voltage for medium and two fans run full voltage for high speed). View attachment 978305 Click to expand...

ChallyTatum said: Well assuming the fans don't work at low speed, these are the only possibilities. Although only one fan will be operating at high speed...not both. And to think the FSM from TechAuthority did not have wiring schematics...what BS. View attachment 978317 View attachment 978318 I am glad I looked into this because I was under the impression the challengers only have 2 rad fan speed modes but that is not true for the dual fan set-up as there is a medium fan setting. Click to expand...

Thanks I think it is the low speed resistor that is built into the wiring harness. I tried the fuses and relays it is a brand new brushless fans that work great when the ac is on but won’t kick on when the ac is off and will let the engine overheat.  

My 2009 rt has been bubbling in the radiator and steaming. My fan will not turn on and I replaced the fuse and everything. I also replaced the thermostat (correctly) and my Cooliant drains but it dosent leak anywhere. Lost and don’t know what else to do  

Anybody confirm the harness was the fix for no low speed fans? I'm having same issue. Cold enough here in SE Michigan right now I can safely drive it on short errands so long as I don't get stuck in traffic. Have confirmed that turning a/c on does cycle the high speed fans but it's ambient air temps are enough that it doesn't stay on; just runs in short cycles. Mine is a 2017 R/T w/ 29k miles. Was going to try the fuse and relay but the harness seems suspect w/ the AB level change on the part number.  

R/Ts usually came with the resistor and single fan setup. The resistor runs in series with the fan for low speed operation and then is bypassed by a relay for high speed. Try testing the resistor first if this is the setup you have.  

Correction: That second p/n that's just the resister portion does not fit the Challengers  

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Radiator fan not working

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Help!!!!! (2013 Pursuit 5.7) Water pump went bad, replaced it. Drove two days and then it overheated. Bubbling coolant in reservoir. Fan had stopped working. Replaced dual fan with new large single fan w/shroud. (Recommend replacement). Fan still doesn’t work. Any help will be received with open arms.  

Check your fan fuses and relays. There should be three of each in the front TIPM. Have you tested the old fans? It's pretty usual for both of them to fail at the same time.  

Where are the fuses, relays and TIPM  

Don't trash those dual fans. Why did someone recommend replacing with a single fan? You can replace the motors and keep going. Someone here will buy those duals off you. Even with no motors its a great start for someone wanting to convert. Motors off Rock Auto and go. Do you have em?  

I read the single was an upgrade over the dual for pursuit 5.7, more CFM. Neither set up will come on. It is my daily driver so being without is bad news. With my health , just changing out the fan set ups taxed me hard. May just send it to the shop. Don’t need another heart attack! More than likely I should have just sent it to the shop first.  

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